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Pham Nuwen posted:Anyone who can help me figure out how to get this drat gas cap off will be forever my friend. It looks like this:
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May 20, 2016 19:37
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Yeah, try turning/jiggling the key as you turn it and maybe pushing down on it. If you still can't get it off it might be hosed.
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May 20, 2016 19:41
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Drill bits, anger, and alcohol.
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May 20, 2016 20:03
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trouser chili posted:Drill bits, anger, and alcohol. That's the backup plan. Do you just drill straight into the keyhole? Once the lock is drilled out, can the gas cap still function as a non-locking gas cap or do I need to hit up Rockauto? (which has let me down before, when I ordered a Stant gas cap for my Studebaker and it didn't fit at all)
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May 20, 2016 20:17
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Pham Nuwen posted:That's the backup plan. Do you just drill straight into the keyhole? Once the lock is drilled out, can the gas cap still function as a non-locking gas cap or do I need to hit up Rockauto? (which has let me down before, when I ordered a Stant gas cap for my Studebaker and it didn't fit at all) I don't have any experience with drilling out locking gas caps, just the anger and alcohol, but yeah that's how I'd go at it. Drill the lock cylinder, progressively with larger bits as needed. Coat the bits in heavy grease to catch the filings that you can, but the fuel filter should prevent any that go down the filler from loving things up badly.
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May 20, 2016 20:31
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Pham Nuwen posted:That's the backup plan. Do you just drill straight into the keyhole? Once the lock is drilled out, can the gas cap still function as a non-locking gas cap or do I need to hit up Rockauto? (which has let me down before, when I ordered a Stant gas cap for my Studebaker and it didn't fit at all)
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May 20, 2016 20:46
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slidebite posted:Just buy a new gas cap man. There are places other than Rock-Auto if you don't like them. Yeah, just go to the nearest gas station and tell them you think you lost your cap there. They'll have a box to choose from.
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May 20, 2016 21:00
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New battery acquired.
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May 20, 2016 23:39
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I would disconnect the fuel filler neck to help prevent the shavings issue. And with a lock just drill out the whole section the key goes in. Also a big pair of channel locks on the gas cap and just give it a wrench.
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May 20, 2016 23:45
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I bought a new battery on the way home from work. Also picked up my friend's tiny little air compressor to blow away spiders. When I hooked up the battery: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xktiHIfYR-M Turns out disabling the fuel pump is really easy--there's a big connector under the carpet inside, you just unplug it. After disabling the fuel pump and the spark, I did a compression test. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Kh6tgp3iJQ All cylinders were over 140 (the 120 in the video was just because I didn't crank long enough, last test I did was a little 4 cylinder that went faster) Next up, I think I'll drill out the fuel cap (unless my friend can figure out how to get it off), then see about draining the fuel tank. I printed out the pages of the manual related to that and it seems quite easy. At the very least I'd like to remove the "fuel tank gauge unit" (see http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/1982/1982%20280zx%20FSM/fe.pdf) and make sure the filter's clean etc., try to siphon out the old gas. I ordered distributor cap & rotor and an oil filter, which arrived today, plus 5 quarts of oil and a spark plug kit, which should arrive tomorrow. Plugs are cheaper at Autozone so I'll just pick some up there.
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May 21, 2016 02:42
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i have advance tidings that the record player has been reported as working
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May 21, 2016 03:07
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Jonny 290 posted:i have advance tidings that the record player has been reported as working It's true! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-megleuUHFY
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May 21, 2016 03:12
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 Who needs fancy computin machines if a tiny record player can do the job.
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May 21, 2016 08:21
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Fuel pump status: she's chooched, boys. 12v at the harness connector, but pump doesn't pump. We pulled it off, set it in a bucket for closer observation, and reconnected it, not a sound. At least they're not too expensive.
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May 21, 2016 15:23
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Probably gummed up. There's band aid stuff you can do but I'd just replace it.
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May 21, 2016 15:57
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We removed the fuel pump last night. This afternoon I walked out to find a nice present under the car: The line between the tank and the fuel pump had either siphoned fuel out, or just allowed it to flow as the day heated up. I disconnected the hose at the tank side this time and hopefully no more comes out. Just realized I should probably crack the hatch open until we pull the tank lest we fill the car with stanky gas fumes. In better news, it took basically no drilling at all to get the cap off:  Locking gas caps: good protection against gas theft unless your adversary has a cordless drill and an extra 10 seconds. The cap seems to work just fine now.
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May 21, 2016 23:21
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We dropped the fuel tank and drained the nasty old gas. Something plastic on the end of the fuel return line dissolved into crumbly crud, but there are partitions in the gas tank that have it segregated from the pickup filter. Otherwise the tank is very clean. Trying to figure out how to get that poo poo out through the smallish access hole on top.
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May 22, 2016 02:37
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMxdFwCU1OE
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May 22, 2016 02:43
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Pham Nuwen posted:We dropped the fuel tank and drained the nasty old gas. Got an air compressor?
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May 22, 2016 05:04
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Slavvy posted:Got an air compressor? After looking more we found it filling the return tube and the bottom of the intake filter. My friend suspects dirty gas, we think this may be what killed the fuel pump. I'm a little worried at the return being full of gunk... Where did it come from? Pics coming soon. Edit: this is the very bottom of the fuel return line in the tank. We had to cut the last 1/2 inch off in order to clean out the rest. A bunch of gunk like this was piled up below it on the bottom of the tank but we scooped it out. It's sort of a soft, sticky, gooey substance, softens/dissolves in throttle body cleaner.  And here's the fuel intake filter. It has a thick layer of the same poo poo at the bottom.  We're going to be double careful about checking the rest of the fuel system, and will put fresh rubber fuel line throughout. I'm going to try and find a replacement for that intake screen, if I can't find one I guess I'll just put an inline filter just before the fuel pump. Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 05:38 on May 22, 2016 |
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May 22, 2016 05:14
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This car is an excellent candidate to gut completely, I suggest you do so.
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May 22, 2016 06:28
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I'm trying to talk him into Smokey Yunicking the fuel lines and just replacing with 1" or something "yeah i get 450 miles to 'a tank'"
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May 22, 2016 06:29
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Replace every fluid and rubber line/hose in that car. Fuel, vacuum, brakes. After you change the oil & filter and fuel filter, do the filters again a week later. Remember standard old school brake fluid is hygroscopic so there is a real chance the steel tubing used in the lines need to be done too. Also, in case you didn't know the oil filter is a standard old school Ford V8 filter from something like the 60s to the 90s.
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May 22, 2016 17:53
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I ran out and took a quick check at the fuel hardlines on the engine end. No sign of gunk when I ran a pipe cleaner into these: So I have high hopes that the clogging is limited to the tank end. Next time my friend's over, we'll blast air through and try to feel it at the other end, and spray throttle body cleaner down the lines to try and clean poo poo up a little. Now, a question. The diagram above shows lines 18, 17, and 16. It labels them as such:
Now, it seems to me that 17 and 18 are switched--evapo tube goes to the vapor canister, return tube comes back from the EFI system. Simple mis-labeling, or am I fundamentally mis-understanding the entire fuel system? (Diagram source: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/1982/1982%20280zx%20FSM/fe.pdf)
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May 22, 2016 18:16
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slidebite posted:Replace every fluid and rubber line/hose in that car. Fuel, vacuum, brakes. After you change the oil & filter and fuel filter, do the filters again a week later. Remember standard old school brake fluid is hygroscopic so there is a real chance the steel tubing used in the lines need to be done too. My able assistant asked why I was buying the cheapest possible 10W30 oil, I told him I planned to do exactly that. As for rubber lines, my plan is to grab representative samples of each size of hose, note down approximately how many feet I'll need, and head to O'Reilly to match up replacements. After this gunky tank nonsense I'm planning on putting a fuel filter before the fuel pump as well. How do I check the steel brake tubing for goodness? At some point I'll also need to figure out why the clutch pedal stays on the floor when you push it down. There's fluid in the master cylinder, but I haven't gone poking around to find the return spring. Goddamn the manuals on nicoclub are handy, though: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/1982/1982%20280zx%20FSM/cl.pdf
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May 22, 2016 18:23
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Out of curiosity would it help to put some extra detergent, like those oil system flush additives, in the first filling of oil to get more gunk out?
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May 22, 2016 18:26
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Make sure when you replace fuel hose you replace it with fuel hose. One of my dad's coworkers' kids died that way. Hell of a way to go. 
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May 22, 2016 18:31
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Pham Nuwen posted:How do I check the steel brake tubing for goodness? See if there are any holes  Disconnect some, see if you have any rusty looking fluid dripping out of it. e: quote:After this gunky tank nonsense I'm planning on putting a fuel filter before the fuel pump as well. \/ Yeah, when you bleed the brakes you'll probably find if it leaks. \/ slidebite fucked around with this message at 19:14 on May 22, 2016 |
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May 22, 2016 19:08
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slidebite posted:See if there are any holes IMO, just flush out the old stuff, evaluate the color of the stuff that comes out, and do the test where you stomp on the brakes as hard as you can repeatedly (while not moving) to make sure nothing's fucky. Maybe visually check everything after this test to make sure all the fluid is on the inside.
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May 22, 2016 19:12
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Are all fuel check valves equivalent, hose diameters aside? Really hoping the fuel pressure regulator and the damper are ok. I can't find the damper in stock anywhere, and the pressure regulator is $63 on Rockauto. Edit: looks like my fuel tank was made October 29 of the 56th year of the Showa period, aka Oct 29 1982. 
Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 22:51 on May 22, 2016 |
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May 22, 2016 21:14
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Pham Nuwen posted:Edit: looks like my fuel tank was made October 29 of the 56th year of the Showa period, aka Oct 29 1982.
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May 22, 2016 23:45
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Big pile of fuel lines I pulled out: Tank -> fuel pump, fuel pump -> hard line, hard line -> fuel filter, fuel filter -> manifold. Manifold return -> hard line, hard line -> tank Vapor canister hardline -> fuel filter -> hardline, hardline -> gas tank Filler tube vent -> gas tank. loving hell. Gonna go plop this all on the O'Reilly countertop tomorrow and ask for some matching replacements. Fake edit: gotta remember to check out that fuel check valve (small black cylinder with white ring around it near bottom left) and the fuel damper (dirty thing just below the fuel filter) to see if they're hosed or not. I'm hoping not because I'm not sure where to source replacements.
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May 25, 2016 02:53
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Don't do that for all sorts of reasons. Just size it yourself and buy a big enough roll and bunch of hose clamps.
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May 25, 2016 03:00
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Pham Nuwen posted:Edit: looks like my fuel tank was made October 29 of the 56th year of the Showa period, aka Oct 29 1982. Showa 56 would be actually 1981. Source. 1982 model year production was 8/81 through 8/82, so that's very likely the original tank. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:57 on May 25, 2016 |
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May 25, 2016 03:48
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some texas redneck posted:Showa 56 would be actually 1981. Source. poo poo, my math was off. By the way, no sign of that nasty gunky poo poo anywhere else in the fuel system.
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May 25, 2016 04:56
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I thought it was 1982 too until I looked up a calendar. 
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May 25, 2016 05:02
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slidebite posted:Don't do that for all sorts of reasons. Just size it yourself and buy a big enough roll and bunch of hose clamps. I need a couple feet each of at least 3 different sized hoses. I'm also trying to figure out why the lines at the rear have that mesh outer coating... is it to prevent the line from breaking if a rock gets kicked up? I'll probably buy a roll of vacuum line, though, since it seems to be the same size in most places. Edit: a roll of vacuum line to replace vacuum lines, not fuel lines, c'mon people. Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 17:12 on May 25, 2016 |
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May 25, 2016 17:07
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Vacuum line is not rated to carry fuel so unless your goal is to die in a firey wreck u recommend against that
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May 25, 2016 17:11
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Yeah that's specifically what I was warning about here:Seat Safety Switch posted:Make sure when you replace fuel hose you replace it with fuel hose.
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May 25, 2016 17:11
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rscott posted:Vacuum line is not rated to carry fuel so unless your goal is to die in a firey wreck u recommend against that No, no, that's not what I meant. I meant that I also need to replace vacuum lines, and all the vacuum lines seem to be the same size, so I'll just buy a whole roll for that task. Not using vacuum line for fuel.
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May 25, 2016 17:12
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