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Jonny 290 posted:I gave myself a mild hernia replacing the exact same slave cylinder, but on my 240sx. Leverage is hard! (dont try to replace it without jacking up the car, as i did) The fitting where the hard line goes into a few inches of rubber line before the slave cylinder is insanely stiff, I'm using a flare nut wrench but I'm still scared shitless that I'll gently caress up the hard line. Edit: yeah it's starting to round off. Is it possible to just remove the rubber line without disconnecting the hard line upstream? Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Jul 2, 2016 |
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Jul 2, 2016 19:19
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 19:51 |
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That engine doesn't sound bad at all. drat.th vwls hv scpd posted:I agree with Jonny 290. Any time I've had a slave cylinder die the pedal always stuck to the floor. Nthing this, it's been my experience as well.
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Jul 2, 2016 19:39
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Jonny 290 pointed out that I can loosen the soft line, then unbolt the cylinder and spin it off the line. Done.
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Jul 2, 2016 20:18
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Clutch is done. It will roll forward happily in first, but reverse makes a grinding noise: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdb0wJKMMVA You can see (and hear) it go into reverse, then I put it in 5th for a second to see if that grinds too, then right at the end I put it in 1st and roll forward a bit. Jonny 290 thinks it may be the shifter bushing? I didn't mess with it much, but going from 2nd to R doesn't help. I'll have to get back out there and try holding it firmly in position.
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Jul 2, 2016 22:03
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I'd bet on the clutch not disengaging fully, or a hosed throwout bearing. Even if you don't have a synchro on reverse, going into a forward gear first will stop the guts of the gearbox from spinning. Even if you didn't do that first, it should only grind briefly while going into reverse.
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Jul 2, 2016 22:17
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Ok, so I went out and held the shifter firmly into reverse, and it actually reversed just fine--briefly. Then it popped out. It doesn't seem to do this in 1st. Also, dicking around with the radio, I found a setting that makes FM sound great. Hallelujah!
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Jul 2, 2016 22:50
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Yeah your grinding sounds exactly like the clutch isn't disengaging all the way. I had that problem in my truck; any synchronized gear would go (unhappily) into gear, but first and reverse would just grind like that. I had to shut the motor off if I wanted to use reverse. A new master cylinder fixed this for me, but obviously it didn't in your case. Make sure your hydraulics are bled and the pushrod (or whatever) is adjusted correctly?
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Jul 2, 2016 23:29
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Raluek posted:Yeah your grinding sounds exactly like the clutch isn't disengaging all the way. I had that problem in my truck; any synchronized gear would go (unhappily) into gear, but first and reverse would just grind like that. I had to shut the motor off if I wanted to use reverse. A new master cylinder fixed this for me, but obviously it didn't in your case. Make sure your hydraulics are bled and the pushrod (or whatever) is adjusted correctly? The grinding happens as I'm trying to let out the clutch, having shifted it into reverse--or what should be reverse, I mean the stick is back and to the right but it grinds. It doesn't grind when I'm trying to put it in reverse. Could it still be the clutch? Maybe the shifter bushings? Would low/bad transmission fluid do this? I'm just hoping for anything besides a rebuild.
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Jul 3, 2016 19:29
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Pham Nuwen posted:The grinding happens as I'm trying to let out the clutch, having shifted it into reverse--or what should be reverse, I mean the stick is back and to the right but it grinds. It doesn't grind when I'm trying to put it in reverse. Oh. Then yeah, I agree it's less likely to be the clutch. I'd guess shifter linkage/bushings/whatever, in that case. Sounds like it won't go fully into that gear. Maybe a bent shift fork? I doubt it's the fluid, but it can't hurt to put fresh stuff in if it's in a mystery state. I'd expect low/no/wrong/old fluid to make for notchy/clunky shifts, unhappy synchros, and whining while moving, but not kicking it out of gear like that. I guess it could happen, though.
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Jul 3, 2016 23:54
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Luckily those transmissions are simple as poo poo to drop. Remember to brace the back of the engine when you pull it.
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Jul 4, 2016 05:09
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slidebite posted:Luckily those transmissions are simple as poo poo to drop. Remember to brace the back of the engine when you pull it. You're supposed to tell me a new set of shifter bushings will fix it 
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Jul 4, 2016 05:21
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A new set of shifter bushings won't hurt, is that the answer you're looking for?  It's the easiest fix. It may or may not work, but it needs doing anyway.
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Jul 4, 2016 06:03
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Sorry, the only transmission work I've done on a ZX was watching a buddy tear his down while I drank beer. Done quite a few clutches though! 
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Jul 4, 2016 06:19
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How do you get that little bastard bushing pushed onto the ball on the bottom of the lever?
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Jul 9, 2016 17:00
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I don't remember what you're talking about exactly, got a photo? But nothing was difficult. Hardest was probably a couple of the bell housing bolts which required a mix of universals and extensions. Working on a ZX is literally a 20 year old memory for me at this point. You do have a Haynes manual or something right? It is simple but instructions are handy for the first time. E: Isn't there just a snap ring or E-clip on the pin for the lever that you just remove and then just pull the lever out? slidebite fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Jul 9, 2016 |
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Jul 9, 2016 17:06
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I got it figured out... I'm talking about the little plastic bushing that sits on the bottom of the push lever and pivots around. I got the new one installed by placing it against the concrete, then tapping the other end of the shift lever with a rubber mallet. Popped right on and it's solid. The problem is, now I've replaced the shifter bushings but the bastard still pops out of reverse! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrunOZjJE1c
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Jul 9, 2016 17:23
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Well I remember back in the day my buddies 5th kept popping out because a nut backed off. I think you're at dropping the tranny and opening it up stage.
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Jul 9, 2016 17:51
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Pham Nuwen posted:I got it figured out... I'm talking about the little plastic bushing that sits on the bottom of the push lever and pivots around. I got the new one installed by placing it against the concrete, then tapping the other end of the shift lever with a rubber mallet. Popped right on and it's solid. Do the other gears shift smoothly/better/stay in now that you've done the bushings? edit: Nevermind, watched the video. "Forward is fine." 
Waffle House fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Jul 10, 2016 |
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Jul 10, 2016 06:27
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IIRC Albuquerque has some decent hills. You don't really NEED reverse (as long as you park facing uphill)
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Jul 10, 2016 06:30
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Ok, so I asked in the chat thread about jackstand points, looks like with some scrap wood I'll have no trouble getting it up on jacks. Still scares my poo poo out to have that much weight over my head but I can pull some wheels and lay them down as backups. I don't have a transmission jack, and christ they're expensive. I was hoping I might be able to do the job with a floor jack and perhaps a plank to give the floor jack more lift area. Seem reasonable? Will I be able to get the tranny lined up again like that? Finally, my garage is still kind of chaotic... I'd really prefer to drop the transmission, then put the car back down on the wheels in the driveway while I work on the transmission. Slidebite, can you think of a good way to hold the rear end end of the engine up for all of this? Or should I just plan to clear out a garage bay and leave it on stands the whole time with a floorjack under the back of the engine?
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Jul 28, 2016 01:32
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Can you rent a transmission jack from a place like Advanced Auto Parts?
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Jul 28, 2016 01:37
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It's doable with a regular jack build a platform with 2×4 and make sure it's a rectangle that's similar in shape to the trans pan. Use ratchet straps to keep the tranny held to the platform you made. Its doable and if you want to let the engine hang it's not the best thing but it's just gonna wear your old worn rubber mounts more. Also you can use ratchet straps and a solid point in the car to help keep the engine up. I pull a trans or two a day so I've seen it done many ways and its always possible.
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Jul 28, 2016 01:45
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Pfft it's a manual. A floor jack is nice to have, optionally, but realistically you just need two people. They're much lighter and less awkward than they seem.
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Jul 28, 2016 01:48
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Transmission jack rental is the best idea, really. I speak having done this the hard way with a miata, which I assume has a lighter transmission. I used a high-lift jack, put a board on top, then used ratchet straps around the transmission/board/lifting end of the jack to hold everything in place. A jack is not very stable when you are wobbling it side-to-side, and there were multiple times where I would have had 70(?) pounds of transmission drop straight on to my face had I not strapped it all together. That was for separation of the transmission from the engine, and dropping the transmission. Getting it back in was worse, since a standard jack doesn't have any rotational ability like a transmission jack does. I ended up loosening the straps enough so I could lift the trans and try to bench press it into place. This took multiple attempts. Just buy or rent a transmission jack. Pham Nuwen posted:Slidebite, can you think of a good way to hold the rear end end of the engine up for all of this? Or should I just plan to clear out a garage bay and leave it on stands the whole time with a floorjack under the back of the engine? The floor jack will lose pressure over time, so this doesn't really work long-term. Supposedly, lay a 2x4 across the top of the engine bay (find some solid points to lay it on), and use ratchet straps to cinch the bottom of the engine upward. Wait, do you mean the transmission end of the engine? On a miata, that end raises, not drops, without the transmission to hold it down. No idea how yours will react.
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Jul 28, 2016 02:00
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I have done clutches in those probably 6 times and never once used a transmission jack. Use a decent trolly and have a buddy. The hardest part will be lining it back up with the clutch for install. A transmission jack, or adapter for a trolly jack ($100?) would probably be best but you absolutely can do it without one. E: Just saw you asking about the engine support. I always just used a baby trolly jack with a 2x4. In a pinch you could block it or use some other jack ...even once used a scissor jack. slidebite fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Jul 28, 2016 |
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Jul 28, 2016 02:06
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Princess Auto has a tranny jack adapter for a trolley jack, so I'd bet that Harbour Freight or similar would also have one.
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Jul 28, 2016 02:43
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A standard jack with a platform is fine, you can even bench press trannys out if you're feeling adventurous. I've done it on falcons doing tranny swaps in the dirt when I didn't have access to a jack, I don't recommend it though. The 2x4 across the engine bay will be fine to keep your engine supported just wrap the ends in a couple of old towels. If you are going to drop the tranny don't forget to hunt up a cap for the tailshaft socket, they'll pour a load of fluid all over you of you're not careful. edit: I always forget something, heh. Make sure you've got it up high enough to actually get the box out from under there too, it's not fun realising that you've got it on the ground but you cant actually get the bloody thing where you want it without lifting the car another six inches. bend fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Jul 29, 2016 |
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Jul 29, 2016 22:19
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Pham Nuwen posted:Finally, my garage is still kind of chaotic... I'd really prefer to drop the transmission, then put the car back down on the wheels in the driveway while I work on the transmission. Slidebite, can you think of a good way to hold the rear end end of the engine up for all of this? Or should I just plan to clear out a garage bay and leave it on stands the whole time with a floorjack under the back of the engine? On my wife's Kia (FWD, pulling the trans removed half of the engine's support) I used a piece of 1" iron pipe, a couple of lengths of 2x4 with a hole big enough for the pipe resting on the lips of the fenders where they bolted to the unibody, and a ratchet strap to hold up the free end of the engine. Also helped to adjust the engine for mating them back together. On a RWD car, a rathcet strap of something connected between the rear of the engine and a solid point on the firewall works fin as well. I did that with bailing wire and the hood latch (reverse-opening hood) on my first-gen RX7. Of course, a 12A rotary only weighs a couple hundred pounds soaking wet. edit: there also no trouble leaving it on stands and blocking up the rear of the engine. I've done that as well, using the screw-type scissor jack from the car. That's also helpful for adjusting the angle of the engine for mating the trans back in.
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Jul 29, 2016 22:59
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bend posted:edit: I always forget something, heh. Make sure you've got it up high enough to actually get the box out from under there too, it's not fun realising that you've got it on the ground but you cant actually get the bloody thing where you want it without lifting the car another six inches. That, too. Been there. Half the time, due to the angle of my driveway, I've had to drag the trans out from the front rather than the side, and I don't think I've ever got it out actually on my tranny jack.
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Jul 29, 2016 23:02
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And yes, they are correct with high enough. You will need to get that front end quite high to let the bellhousing clear. If you think you have it high enough, add a few inches. And also drain the transmission first. Do the clutch and pilot bearing while you're in there. You shouldn't need to disconnect the slave - IIRC you can safely let it hang. Spray some penetrating oil at the u-joint yoke on the rear-diff now and let it work if you haven't already.
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Jul 30, 2016 01:07
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slidebite posted:And yes, they are correct with high enough. You will need to get that front end quite high to let the bellhousing clear. If you think you have it high enough, add a few inches. I've had success before by leaving the wheels on the car, jacking it up and putting rims+tyres on their sides under the wheels, effectively adding as much ground clearance as the width of the tyres it's sitting on. Worked pretty well on my various 80's BMW's.
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Jul 30, 2016 04:17
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Well, we got the car jacked up and put on stands, it seems quite sturdy. We drained the transmission, removed the front end of the exhaust, and got some other bits disconnected. We ran into a snag when one of the nuts holding the companion shaft to the diff rounded off pretty thoroughly. We were able to get the others loosened, but I think this one is going to require some Dremel work and a trip to Fastenal. We're hoping to get that nut off, plus remove the starter and slave cylinder, tomorrow. Then Tuesday or Wednesday we can try to unbolt and drop the transmission.
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Jul 31, 2016 23:03
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U-joint bolts you mean? that sucks. They're a little awkward at the best of times. Glad your not anxious. If you've never done it before biting it off in manageable days is not a crazy idea. Good luck.
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Aug 1, 2016 00:49
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slidebite posted:U-joint bolts you mean? that sucks. They're a little awkward at the best of times. Well, whatever you call the four bolts+nuts that hold the driveshaft to the diff. Is it easy to get replacement bolts for those? We may end up wrecking the bolt to get the nut off. These have one side flattened off which I guess we could replicate with a dremel but when things are spinning at high speed I like to be precise.
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Aug 1, 2016 01:29
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Pham Nuwen posted:Well, whatever you call the four bolts+nuts that hold the driveshaft to the diff. I've replaced countless ones of these with normal high-tensile nuts + bolts on my own mercilessly thrashed cars and never had any issue. They're designed that way for ease of assembly and nothing else, any bolts you buy will likely be stronger than what was in there to start with. It's a good idea to swap all four so they're all the same though.
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Aug 1, 2016 01:37
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I truly don't know how hard it would be to find. Might want to try a driveline place if you have trouble. Don't be worried about balance or anything like that with such a tight diameter, a nick in a bolt head there would be inconsequential. While you are at it you might want to replace that u joint at the diff. It should be quite cheap.
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Aug 1, 2016 01:38
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Yeah, I'd cut it off then take one of the others to the hardware store for replacements. Get SS and I'd replace all 4 as somebody suggested.
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Aug 2, 2016 15:53
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Everything is now off except for the driveshaft. Removing the starter was ridiculously easy: two bolts, one on top and one on the bottom, and the one on top did double duty holding on the grounding wire. Beats the hell out of the starter on my Mazda truck which had three bolts, not all the same size, and in far more inconvenient spots. Once I get back from Defcon, I'll get that final driveshaft nut off and drop the tranny.
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Aug 4, 2016 14:45
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Well, didn't have any luck with the punch and hammer at getting that nut off. Here it is, can you see any options for getting it off? The crossmember and the diff itself make hammering on one of those sockets that bite into a stuck nut pretty much impossible. The exhaust and the crossmember also mean I can't get my angle grinder in there; I could remove the exhaust but I'm still very leery of waving an angle grinder around in there lest I cut up the u-joint hardware too much. Maybe a small hacksaw blade could slip under the head of the bolt and just cut the shaft off? Maneuvering will be a pain in the rear end still. I'm thinking I'll head down to O'Reilly's and get some vise grips and a torch, try that first.
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Aug 21, 2016 19:38
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 19:51 |
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Looks like you've got room for a nut splitter. https://m.summitracing.com/parts/oe...CFUFkhgodRVEOzQ
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Aug 21, 2016 20:48
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