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Veeb0rg posted:Looks like you've got room for a nut splitter. Maybe... It's pretty small clearance on the opposite side of the nut, so I may be looking at grinding down the nut splitter to fit it on. I bought a propane torch and some vise grips (dunno what happened to my old ones) so I'm going to try that, although in my experience vise grips tend to slip just when you think you've got it.
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Aug 21, 2016 21:12
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A die grinder or a dremel could probably get in there too, though a dremel would take a while. Take the head off the bolt if you cant get the nut off. Don't know if you have a welder or not, but you might be able to mig a piece of bar stock to the nut for leverage too, the heat'd go a long way to breaking it free if you can. bend fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Aug 21, 2016 |
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Aug 21, 2016 21:35
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If you can't get it off with a splitter or heat cut or grind it. If you use heat be careful you don't get the pinion seal too hot. Bring a spray bottle of water with you to keep it cool.
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Aug 22, 2016 04:15
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I wouldn't hesitate to just cut the fucker off with an angle grinder.
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Aug 22, 2016 14:49
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Vice-Grips are essential for those of us living where rust eats cars so it's shocking to me that some people don't require them for every job.
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Aug 22, 2016 15:43
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I am fascinated with how rust free the underside of that 34 year old datsun is.
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Aug 22, 2016 16:04
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 Finally. I just went nuts on it with a dremel and eventually was able to use a chisel to turn it.
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Aug 31, 2016 02:41
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Good boy. Now drop the drat thing.
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Aug 31, 2016 03:05
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slidebite posted:Good boy. Now drop the drat thing. Gonna get my friend to come help drop it this weekend; according to google the transmission should only be about 70 lbs but I'd rather have some help. I'm not in a huge rush to get it all done because I'm not gonna register it until January, when it no longer needs smog tests for registration. Still, I'd like to get the tranny fixed pretty soon so I can move on to fixing other crap.
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Aug 31, 2016 03:13
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Yeah, it's not that heavy, but it is awkward underneath the car and a buddy is definitely the way to go. Not only because it's easier, it's also safer. You are sure the front is jacked up enough for you to drag it out?
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Aug 31, 2016 03:29
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I had six months to do an LS swap into a vehicle that had a chevy small block and I thought I had plenty of time too don't be me
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Aug 31, 2016 03:29
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slidebite posted:Yeah, it's not that heavy, but it is awkward underneath the car and a buddy is definitely the way to go. Not only because it's easier, it's also safer. I've got the whole thing up on stands and I mean it feels pretty high but poo poo now I'm gonna have to measure it. Feels like I should be able to just drag it out near the rear.
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Aug 31, 2016 03:50
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measure twice, cuss once
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Aug 31, 2016 04:59
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I went out to measure clearance and discovered that I'm gonna need to do black widow abatement before I start work, there was definitely one in a web up near the front wheel. 
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Aug 31, 2016 05:33
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Ah, the rare 280ZX Spyder
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Aug 31, 2016 05:38
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Jonny 290 posted:Ah, the rare 280ZX Spyder 
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Aug 31, 2016 06:01
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Pham Nuwen posted:I went out to measure clearance and discovered that I'm gonna need to do black widow abatement before I start work, there was definitely one in a web up near the front wheel. A small propane torch does wonders for spider control. Works way better then any chemical I have ever used.
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Aug 31, 2016 14:14
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Sep 4, 2016 05:51
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Can't say I've ever seen a transmission that needed its own cat. 
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Sep 4, 2016 07:35
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Pulling the driveshaft was pretty quick and easy. The transmission wasn't bad either, but it took us at least 20 minutes to get one of the top bolts loose. That thing was drat near impossible to reach, it finally took my friend snaking his hand in from the top to align the wrench while I reached up from underneath to turn it. It's actually pretty light, although I'm glad I had help getting it down. Turns out the car wasn't high enough to get it out but we were planning to take it off the stands anyway, so we just jacked up the rear and pulled it out before dropping the car. Next up, I figure out a workbench, order the rebuild kit, and start tearing it apart. I'm thinking about a chunk of used cabinets from the Habitat for Humanity thrift store as a workbench, that would be a decent height and I'd get some storage too.
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Sep 4, 2016 17:01
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Jonny 290 posted:measure twice, cuss forever I mean, it is a Nissan.
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Sep 4, 2016 18:36
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Old trannys sure do have some length to them. New ones definitely have more girth .
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Sep 5, 2016 03:26
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Trying to decide on a rebuild kit. Here's the two best options imo: https://zcardepot.com/driveline/transmission/manual/transmission-rebuild-kit-with-synchros-240z-280z-280zx.html http://www.zcarsource.com/transmission-rebuild-kit-280z-280zx-76-83-5-speed-nonturbo-new_8_78010_197633.html
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Sep 11, 2016 19:41
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I'm a mechanical engineer and the thought of opening up a tranny still scares me. lol. Those kits seem really cheap. GL with the rebuild.
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Sep 12, 2016 15:12
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Pham Nuwen posted:Trying to decide on a rebuild kit. Here's the two best options imo: I went with the one from zcardepot because it's a little cheaper and I couldn't see any reason to get the other.
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Sep 14, 2016 17:10
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Is this the same? http://www.americanpowertrainwareho...pickup-bk104ws/ Also, there should be a nut on the mainshaft which needs to be replaced when you take it apart.
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Sep 14, 2016 18:01
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slidebite posted:Is this the same? Yes, but Google turned up only warnings about American Powertrain Warehouse dot com, so I decided to steer clear. Parts never showed up, parts weren't as described, lovely customer service, etc. Is the nut just a regular nut, or will I need to order it from a specialty shop? Can I get a replacement at a Fastenal?
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Sep 14, 2016 18:12
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It's a special nut and IIRC they made a LHT version as well. Not sure what an 82 would have but I assume it should still have a nut at least. It's a pretty fine thread and gets torqued up quite high.. I think close to 200 ft/lbs or something. If you have a Haynes (or whatever) manual it should mention it.
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Sep 14, 2016 18:24
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The rebuild kit's here, there's no nut in there so I'll have to try and order it separate. Is this it? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/20-1640
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Sep 19, 2016 16:54
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We finally cracked open the transmission yesterday. Removing the rear extension wasn't a big deal: But we're sort of stuck on separating the front part of the case from the adapter plate / all the gears 'n poo poo. The manual at http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=280z/1982/1982%20280zx%20FSM/mt seems to suggest holding onto the output shaft and whacking the bell housing with a mallet; this caused the case and the adapter plate to separate by about 1/8" but no more. As far as I can tell, we've done everything listed in the instructions. We pulled the release bearing and withdrawal lever, then removed the front cover and the main drive bearing shim & snap ring. Here's what it looks like inside now:  And here's the rear end:  Have we forgotten something? Do we just need to get rougher with it?
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Oct 17, 2016 15:35
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Oh man, this is really going back, like early 90s going back. Sorry I can't remember specifics but I don't remember it being super difficult to pull apart. However, your linked manual mentions pulling the snap ring off the bearing on step 4 of disassembly. It still looks like it's still on the outer race of the bearing in your photo. Also, sorry I didn't reply to your earlier nut question. I was in Hawaii for most of September and didn't have regular internet access. Yes, that looks like the correct nut but I seem to recall some being LH and RH threads so just be sure yours matches your old one. ee: There might be asbestos in that friction disc dust, so wear a mask if you're whacking it and hose it out. slidebite fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Oct 17, 2016 |
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Oct 17, 2016 16:48
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slidebite posted:Oh man, this is really going back, like early 90s going back. Sorry I can't remember specifics but I don't remember it being super difficult to pull apart. So my friend said the same thing, but there was a smaller snap ring on the inside of the bearing too. The thing you highlighted doesn't appear to have holes for snap ring pliers, while the inner one did; how do you recommend removing it?
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Oct 17, 2016 17:04
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That is a bearing snap ring - it doesn't have holes/eyes in it like the kind you are thinking of. Get behind and under it with with a narrow flat head screw driver or something pry it up out of the groove and yank it out. Your new bearing should have come with one so you shouldn't have to worry about wrecking it. If you have a narrow set of needle nose pliers you might be able to spread it a little to help.
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Oct 17, 2016 18:05
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Pham Nuwen posted:So my friend said the same thing, but there was a smaller snap ring on the inside of the bearing too. The thing you highlighted doesn't appear to have holes for snap ring pliers, while the inner one did; how do you recommend removing it? You can still use your snap ring pliers to take it out, just do it carefully. Or: 
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Oct 17, 2016 18:49
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Slavvy posted:You can still use your snap ring pliers to take it out, just do it carefully. Which you can get cheaper as the Williams version (who make the Snap-On one anyway) Work good as piston ring expanders, too
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Oct 18, 2016 00:45
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That's quite possibly the only snap ring like that in the entire car. Don't bother buying a pair of pliers just for it. Just work it and pry it out 
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Oct 18, 2016 00:58
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Raluek posted:Which you can get cheaper as the Williams version (who make the Snap-On one anyway) It was the first one that came up in GIS. Do you know this for a fact? Genuine question, I'm not a snap-on fanboy in any way. slidebite posted:That's quite possibly the only snap ring like that in the entire car. Don't bother buying a pair of pliers just for it. Just work it and pry it out You're advising against buying more tools??
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Oct 18, 2016 08:17
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Slavvy posted:It was the first one that came up in GIS. Do you know this for a fact? Genuine question, I'm not a snap-on fanboy in any way. Actually, I'm a huge idiot. Williams makes some of Snap-On's stuff, but Armstrong makes the pliers I'm thinking of. Or, at least, they make some stuff for Snap-On and their pliers look to be the same to me. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XMYAEK  There's a good thread on this on GJ: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249851
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Oct 18, 2016 10:08
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Slavvy posted:You're advising against buying more tools??  Williams is part of the Snap-On industrial brands division and there is a ton of crossover. http://www.snaponindustrialbrands.com/30/home.htm
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Oct 18, 2016 14:17
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Ok, my snap ring pliers spread it well enough to get a dental pick behind and pull it forward. It's free!  Most of the gears look pretty good, the only visibly hosed up one is the reverse idler gear, shown here:  Is that why it kept popping out of reverse as soon as I'd let the clutch out? Here's some more pics:  Some of the gears have little... grooves? On top of the teeth? You can sort of see them in these pics:   Here's some other random shots:  
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Oct 23, 2016 19:53
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