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Wouldn't mind just installing a permanent fuel pressure gauge just before the rail, can anyone recommend something decent on Amazon?
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Apr 2, 2017 14:41
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It's now firing up reliably, runs in high idle for a minute or two to warm up and then drops down to a nice idle. I've had it in forward and reverse and slowly puttered up the street, but with these ancient tires I'm not eager to do much more. A reputable local tire shop says they've got a lightly-used set of BF Goodrich Touring T/A tires that I can get for $250 installed. I've never hosed with used tires at all, is this worth it or should I pay the extra $100 and get brand new tires? Another option: 4 new Barum Brillantis 2 tires at Discount Tire, $257 out the door. This is for 195/70R14 tires; it's currently got 205/70R14 but those aren't as common. I'd been hoping to put some all-terrains on there but I haven't been able to find much in 14" all-terrain tires. Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Apr 7, 2017 |
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Apr 7, 2017 16:01
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I'm not a fan of used tires although I've never heard of Barum before... but I see they are a czech subsidiary of Continental so I guess that's OK, or better than some of those dangerous as hell chinese tires. If you are on a super tight budget, I'd probably go for those new over the used Touring T/A.
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Apr 7, 2017 19:16
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I've had a couple of sets of Barums, they're not terrible. Especially for the price. No way in hell would I pay $250 for a set of used tires unless they were something really hard to find.
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Apr 7, 2017 21:09
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I'd ask for the date code and tread measurement on the used set Incase they are takeoffs from a new car that got rimz. Other than that used tires are like payday loans.
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Apr 7, 2017 23:35
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I dropped off the wheels this morning to get a set of the Barums put on. Should be ready by this afternoon. It's looking like I might actually be able to drive it to this month's Z Car Club meeting on Thursday. It's been running great and I took it to the gas station & back on Friday afternoon.
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Apr 10, 2017 16:12
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I think that's a good call. Did you do the rest of the fluids yet? Brake fluid, PS? That brake fluid will probably be full of water by now. Which reminds me, I need to do mine too. Check the flexible hoses for cracking if you haven't already. IIRC brake parts are dirt cheap on those, except rear calipers which were pretty costly back in the day, I assume due to them being Z-specific and not sharing them with any other datsun of that vintage.
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Apr 10, 2017 20:04
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slidebite posted:I think that's a good call. The clutch fluid is fresh but I haven't done the brake fluid yet, good call. The brakes are working well but I suppose they'll work with a lot of water in the fluid, up until the point the water boils and they stop working. The worst part about doing brakes is that you need an assistant unless you want to buy an expensive tool (or take a chance on a cheap HF tool)
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Apr 10, 2017 20:16
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Speed Bleeders. Learn them, love them.
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Apr 10, 2017 21:59
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opengl128 posted:Speed Bleeders. Learn them, love them. Holy poo poo, how have I never heard of these? So I just open it, hook up the drain hose, and go pump the pedal? That's loving excellent, I just need to figure out what sizes I need and I'm ordering this for brakes and clutch.
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Apr 10, 2017 22:13
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Yyyyyyep. I hosed around with all kinds of vacuum pumps and poo poo and could never get them to work. These are stupid simple. Put them in every car I service.
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Apr 10, 2017 23:24
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New tires are on. Tomorrow's task: figure out the odd noise from the rear. It's a rubbing noise that seems to happen once a wheel rotation, and it goes away immediately if I apply the brakes and returns when I let them off, so I'm thinking it's something to do with brakes, leaning most toward a sticking parking brake.
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Apr 11, 2017 03:21
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I think you are on the right track, probably a sticky piston/slider pins. IIRC (and really, this is iirc as it's going back 25+ years) the parking brake had a mechanism to drive the inboard piston out and it was a bit of a sticking point. It was a little fussy. I'd probably get access to the caliper, take off the parking brake cable, rotate it up (I think you can without removing it), remove the pads and spin the piston in. It has notches to rotate it inwards. Do NOT just try to press the piston in like 99% of other cars, it rotates in. You can buy a tool to do it or, depending how sticky it is, you might be able to rotate it with a flat head screwdriver or something else that fits in the notches. If you can buy a reman caliper from your local parts supplier of choice, it might be worthwhile to just do that instead of rebuilding it. Don't forget rattle plates and the hardware kit. You can re-use a lot of that poo poo, but they don't cost much when new so I'd just get new stuff all around if you tackle it. Remember that whenever you work on brakes, the brake fluid in the master will rise if you bring in any of the pistons. So ensure you either suck some fluid out or stuff rags/paper towels all around the master cylinder to catch any brake fluid that gets pushed out. Better yet, do both. slidebite fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Apr 11, 2017 |
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Apr 11, 2017 03:33
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Check out this link for the Z EFI Bible. I wish I found this years ago. Has all the diagnostic directions for checking the fuel injection and wiring harness. http://www.atlanticz...jectionbook.pdf
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Apr 11, 2017 07:42
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opengl128 posted:Speed Bleeders. Learn them, love them. Oh boy, I need these.
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Apr 11, 2017 12:11
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Oh man I have a real dumb question: Are speed bleeders universally compatible? Or do I need to a find a set that fit my car?
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Apr 11, 2017 12:14
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Breakfast Feud posted:Oh man I have a real dumb question: Are speed bleeders universally compatible? Or do I need to a find a set that fit my car? You need to know what thread your calipers are first, there are different sizes available. My Toyota: 7x1mm
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Apr 11, 2017 12:17
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There was a handy chart on the website so I managed to find a set for my dodge. Now I too can get rid of ~30 year old brake fluid. Thanks, goons!
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Apr 11, 2017 12:38
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here's what's going on with my right rear wheel: https://youtu.be/TkANvcez1wI
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Apr 12, 2017 01:09
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That's pretty tough to tell. Can you narrow it down to someplace specifically on the caliper? Be careful if you're bending around the axle with it idling like that. Don't want you to be in the failure thread.
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Apr 12, 2017 02:34
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Might want to check out the wheel bearing too. My Altima was making the same noise when a couple of balls from the wheel bearing decided to escape.
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Apr 12, 2017 02:42
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Yeah our '79 shat a wheel bearing, but it sounded much louder than that little "tick tick tick". What happens if you pull the caliper off the rotor and do that?
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Apr 12, 2017 03:15
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah our '79 shat a wheel bearing, but it sounded much louder than that little "tick tick tick". I actually just pulled the caliper and couldn't reproduce the noise with the caliper off, so I retracted the brake piston a little bit (rotate clockwise with a pair of vise-grips in the slots) and reinstalled it and now it seems like the sound is gone! I have to cook dinner now so I think experimentation may be over for the day but this is very positive. I'll see if I can make a test drive tomorrow morning or worst case tomorrow night. Edit: basically I think slidebite was 100% correct Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Apr 12, 2017 |
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Apr 12, 2017 03:30
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I put the wheels back on and drove it around the block this morning. No more clicking/ticking noise. Next up I want to drain & refill the diff, then bleed the brakes and clutch. I ordered my speed bleeders from Rockauto so they're slowly making their way from California to me.
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Apr 12, 2017 16:23
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Pham Nuwen posted:I put the wheels back on and drove it around the block this morning. No more clicking/ticking noise. Installed the speed bleeders but the rear ones leaked. Old bleeders are back in there now, I'm pissed and trying to figure out what's up
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Apr 15, 2017 02:15
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Pham Nuwen posted:Installed the speed bleeders but the rear ones leaked. Old bleeders are back in there now, I'm pissed and trying to figure out what's up If it's the threads that are leaking and you haven't yet, wrap them in plumbing thread tape.
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Apr 15, 2017 03:05
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Otteration posted:If it's the threads that are leaking and you haven't yet, wrap them in plumbing thread tape. Nope, it's coming out the tip, enough to drip off every 2-3 seconds. Both of the rear ones came from the same package, and the fronts seem to be fine, so I might contact Rockauto and see if they'll send me a new pack.
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Apr 15, 2017 03:22
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Since I assume you have rear drums and front discs, I wonder if it's just that the pressure required to push fluid out of the bleeders is lower than the amount of residual pressure in the brake lines. If I remember correctly, drum brake proportioning valves will have a check/residual valve in them to keep a bit of pressure in the drum half of the system, I guess so that the shoes don't retract all the way or something. I may be way off base with this, so take this half-remembered factoid with a grain of salt.
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Apr 15, 2017 04:32
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Raluek posted:Since I assume you have rear drums and front discs, I wonder if it's just that the pressure required to push fluid out of the bleeders is lower than the amount of residual pressure in the brake lines. If I remember correctly, drum brake proportioning valves will have a check/residual valve in them to keep a bit of pressure in the drum half of the system, I guess so that the shoes don't retract all the way or something. Discs all around.
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Apr 15, 2017 04:47
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Pham Nuwen posted:Discs all around. Oh ok, nevermind then! 
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Apr 15, 2017 04:51
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Sounds like the bleeders aren't seating, have you looked to see if the angle of the seat is wrong or the sealing surface in the caliper is bad? They're just normal caliper bleeder screws with a ball and spring valve and some sealant on the threads.
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Apr 15, 2017 06:31
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Are the speed bleeders the same length as the stock ones? I got some that were the correct threads but a few mm short that did that. Got some longer ones and it worked.
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Apr 15, 2017 17:44
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Edit: I think I'm just stupid, I've never really touched a brake disc after driving before, just checked on my Ranger after a 1/2 mile run and sure enough it's just as hot.
Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Apr 16, 2017 |
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Apr 16, 2017 01:40
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Keepin' it out of archives by saying I've been too lazy to register the drat thing and too timid to drive it around much without getting someone from the Z Car Club to ride along and tell me if anything seems real wrong.
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May 19, 2017 20:47
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Do you think there is something still wrong with the car that needs a 2nd opinion?
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May 20, 2017 17:18
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slidebite posted:Do you think there is something still wrong with the car that needs a 2nd opinion? I just get spooky about poo poo. I should go to the DMV on Monday and just get it registered and drive the drat thing.
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May 20, 2017 20:37
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Whoever's opinion you do or don't seek, things are gonna break.
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May 20, 2017 20:41
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Pham Nuwen posted:I just get spooky about poo poo. I should go to the DMV on Monday and just get it registered and drive the drat thing. Yup you should. If poo poo's gonna break it's gonna break and opinions don't matter worth a drat. Just have someone in a tow vehicle follow you.
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May 21, 2017 07:22
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I found something good
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May 25, 2017 15:04
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The Datsun is registered and insured. I think I'll take it for its maiden voyage tonight, a few miles down the road to that ethanol-free gas pump
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Jun 5, 2017 16:51
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