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Are you going to put some fresh oil in there before you crank it, or just pump 10-year-old poo poo through it until you know it's salvageable?
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May 13, 2016 01:01
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Pham Nuwen posted:This was my plan, I figure it probably won't hurt it to run the old oil for a few cranks with the plugs out while I test compression. I'll have to figure out how to disable the fuel pump, find the appropriate wires to disconnect I guess. Should be a fuse with an obvious label, or a similar relay, but I don't know anything about those particular cars.
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May 13, 2016 02:07
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slidebite posted:See if there are any holes IMO, just flush out the old stuff, evaluate the color of the stuff that comes out, and do the test where you stomp on the brakes as hard as you can repeatedly (while not moving) to make sure nothing's fucky. Maybe visually check everything after this test to make sure all the fluid is on the inside.
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May 22, 2016 19:12
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Yeah your grinding sounds exactly like the clutch isn't disengaging all the way. I had that problem in my truck; any synchronized gear would go (unhappily) into gear, but first and reverse would just grind like that. I had to shut the motor off if I wanted to use reverse. A new master cylinder fixed this for me, but obviously it didn't in your case. Make sure your hydraulics are bled and the pushrod (or whatever) is adjusted correctly?
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Jul 2, 2016 23:29
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Pham Nuwen posted:The grinding happens as I'm trying to let out the clutch, having shifted it into reverse--or what should be reverse, I mean the stick is back and to the right but it grinds. It doesn't grind when I'm trying to put it in reverse. Oh. Then yeah, I agree it's less likely to be the clutch. I'd guess shifter linkage/bushings/whatever, in that case. Sounds like it won't go fully into that gear. Maybe a bent shift fork? I doubt it's the fluid, but it can't hurt to put fresh stuff in if it's in a mystery state. I'd expect low/no/wrong/old fluid to make for notchy/clunky shifts, unhappy synchros, and whining while moving, but not kicking it out of gear like that. I guess it could happen, though.
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Jul 3, 2016 23:54
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Slavvy posted:You can still use your snap ring pliers to take it out, just do it carefully. Which you can get cheaper as the Williams version (who make the Snap-On one anyway) Work good as piston ring expanders, too
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Oct 18, 2016 00:45
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Slavvy posted:It was the first one that came up in GIS. Do you know this for a fact? Genuine question, I'm not a snap-on fanboy in any way. Actually, I'm a huge idiot. Williams makes some of Snap-On's stuff, but Armstrong makes the pliers I'm thinking of. Or, at least, they make some stuff for Snap-On and their pliers look to be the same to me. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XMYAEK  There's a good thread on this on GJ: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249851
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Oct 18, 2016 10:08
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Pham Nuwen posted:Mother of gently caress these flywheel bolts are really torqued in there good. No impact wrench so I guess I'll have to try sticking a breaker bar on the front end of the engine to hold it still while I try and bust loose the bolts. Yeah flywheel bolts and crank snout bolts are the times i am most thankful for having bap bap. Takes em right off without spinning the whole motor; doing it with a breaker bar and something wedged into the other end of the motor sucks by comparison.
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Feb 14, 2017 02:16
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Since I assume you have rear drums and front discs, I wonder if it's just that the pressure required to push fluid out of the bleeders is lower than the amount of residual pressure in the brake lines. If I remember correctly, drum brake proportioning valves will have a check/residual valve in them to keep a bit of pressure in the drum half of the system, I guess so that the shoes don't retract all the way or something. I may be way off base with this, so take this half-remembered factoid with a grain of salt.
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Apr 15, 2017 04:32
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Pham Nuwen posted:Discs all around. Oh ok, nevermind then! 
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Apr 15, 2017 04:51
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Waffle House posted:Very nice! Of course you'll be getting a well-staged camera phone picture of the ensuing burnout, right? I think you accidentally a few words 
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Jun 5, 2017 20:16
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Cop Porn Popper posted:You can still upload to imgur on mobile without the app. Upload button in the top right corner, exit out of the ad for their app using the x in the top right of the ad and go to town. Am I missing something obvious?  
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Jun 10, 2017 06:25
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Go to the mobile site, m.imgur.com, and click the cloud in the top right corner. Apparently they serve different pages to android and ios user agents, because the screenshot I posted is the same url. The address bar only shows the domain&tld until you touch it 
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Jun 10, 2017 07:47
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Is it one of those FPRs that is connected to vacuum, where a failure mode is sucking gas through the vacuum line?
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Dec 3, 2017 00:11
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