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Pham Nuwen posted:Finally, my garage is still kind of chaotic... I'd really prefer to drop the transmission, then put the car back down on the wheels in the driveway while I work on the transmission. Slidebite, can you think of a good way to hold the rear end end of the engine up for all of this? Or should I just plan to clear out a garage bay and leave it on stands the whole time with a floorjack under the back of the engine? On my wife's Kia (FWD, pulling the trans removed half of the engine's support) I used a piece of 1" iron pipe, a couple of lengths of 2x4 with a hole big enough for the pipe resting on the lips of the fenders where they bolted to the unibody, and a ratchet strap to hold up the free end of the engine. Also helped to adjust the engine for mating them back together. On a RWD car, a rathcet strap of something connected between the rear of the engine and a solid point on the firewall works fin as well. I did that with bailing wire and the hood latch (reverse-opening hood) on my first-gen RX7. Of course, a 12A rotary only weighs a couple hundred pounds soaking wet. edit: there also no trouble leaving it on stands and blocking up the rear of the engine. I've done that as well, using the screw-type scissor jack from the car. That's also helpful for adjusting the angle of the engine for mating the trans back in.
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Jul 29, 2016 22:59
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bend posted:edit: I always forget something, heh. Make sure you've got it up high enough to actually get the box out from under there too, it's not fun realising that you've got it on the ground but you cant actually get the bloody thing where you want it without lifting the car another six inches. That, too. Been there. Half the time, due to the angle of my driveway, I've had to drag the trans out from the front rather than the side, and I don't think I've ever got it out actually on my tranny jack.
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Jul 29, 2016 23:02
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Pham Nuwen posted:I can't loving... god drat it. Can you just swap the front cover from the one that came out of the car, or is the bearing trashed, too? edit: on a slightly related note, I've been driving an FC RX-7 for years with a whining countershaft bearing, which is what that should be. You can see it by removing a similar cover, but no way to actually pull it without disassembling the transmission. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Feb 21, 2017 |
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Feb 21, 2017 22:53
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Pham Nuwen posted:Well, we tried disassembling the transmission with exactly this in mind, but we couldn't get that cover off and we couldn't get the rear housing off either. We're wondering if someone rebuilt this transmission and sealed it up with some sort of heavy-duty gasket sealant stuff, because we did a shitload of prying at both pieces. Yah, that's probably a good idea. I imagine the ball coming out was what caused the case to lose a chunk, and probably where the ball went. Tough to say if you can't get it apart.
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Feb 22, 2017 00:48
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3M makes "eraser" wheels for removing stickers and adhesive that would probably work. edit: https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=3m+eraser+wheel edit again: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AscVrV6E_kg Darchangel fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Jun 13, 2017 |
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Jun 13, 2017 16:22
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Larrymer posted:Man, 3M makes some awesome poo poo. Starting with Scotch tape and Post-It notes. Seems like if it involves sticky of some sort, 3M's got you covered.
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Jun 19, 2017 20:13
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Pham Nuwen posted:I've been driving the car to work occasionally and it seems to do fine. Kind of loud at the rear end when I'm going over 35-ish but that's all. If you had an air compressor, I would say buy a $12 Harbor Freight HVLP gun. Even that cheap a gun will spray a ton better than any spray can, ever. I sprayed the top half of my '90 RX-7 with Rustoleum satin black, thinned with mineral spirits, through one, and it worked great (failed clear coat and surface rust was irritating me, and I was out of work, so had the time).    I got a few runs from not being careful, but it sprayed easily. Failing that, you can get decent results from a spray can, but it's a lot of work. Light, multiple coats, and it will take a *lot* of cans. edit: even for a quick and dirty paint job, do your prep work. At the very least, scuff everything with a Scotchbrite, and wipe it all down with paint thinner or "pre-cleaner". Nothing makes a half-assed paint job look it's absolute worst like the paint bubbling up and falling off because of grease, dirt, and no sanding. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Jul 25, 2017 |
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Jul 25, 2017 23:44
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Pham Nuwen posted:Yeah I really would prefer to use a HVLP gun but I don't have an air compressor, nobody I know has an air compressor, and between the added expense and the fact that I'd have to figure out somewhere for it in my overcrowded garage, I'm not sure if it'll happen. Still, I should check craigslist and maybe set up an alert. Obtaining a 50 gallon, 5 HP air compressor opened up a lot of opportunity. Mine lives in a little shed attached to the side of the house. That said, my dad, back in the day, painted several cars with his Montgomery Wards 10-gallon 2HP horizontal, with an old-school Binks high-pressure suction gun. It just had to be done in bursts. And yeah, the $1/can spray paint is bad. It's usually so thin it takes 1000 coats to get a solid color, and then it runs.
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Jul 26, 2017 00:13
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