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Jesus, I just destroyed my neck crawling around in the footwell of this car trying to get the pin back through the clutch pedal. My neck is absurdly stiff but at least I've got the new master cylinder in. Slave cylinder once I can turn my head again.
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Jul 2, 2016 18:37
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Jonny 290 posted:I gave myself a mild hernia replacing the exact same slave cylinder, but on my 240sx. Leverage is hard! (dont try to replace it without jacking up the car, as i did) The fitting where the hard line goes into a few inches of rubber line before the slave cylinder is insanely stiff, I'm using a flare nut wrench but I'm still scared shitless that I'll gently caress up the hard line. Edit: yeah it's starting to round off. Is it possible to just remove the rubber line without disconnecting the hard line upstream? Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Jul 2, 2016 |
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Jul 2, 2016 19:19
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Jonny 290 pointed out that I can loosen the soft line, then unbolt the cylinder and spin it off the line. Done.
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Jul 2, 2016 20:18
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Clutch is done. It will roll forward happily in first, but reverse makes a grinding noise: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdb0wJKMMVA You can see (and hear) it go into reverse, then I put it in 5th for a second to see if that grinds too, then right at the end I put it in 1st and roll forward a bit. Jonny 290 thinks it may be the shifter bushing? I didn't mess with it much, but going from 2nd to R doesn't help. I'll have to get back out there and try holding it firmly in position.
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Jul 2, 2016 22:03
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Ok, so I went out and held the shifter firmly into reverse, and it actually reversed just fine--briefly. Then it popped out. It doesn't seem to do this in 1st. Also, dicking around with the radio, I found a setting that makes FM sound great. Hallelujah!
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Jul 2, 2016 22:50
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Raluek posted:Yeah your grinding sounds exactly like the clutch isn't disengaging all the way. I had that problem in my truck; any synchronized gear would go (unhappily) into gear, but first and reverse would just grind like that. I had to shut the motor off if I wanted to use reverse. A new master cylinder fixed this for me, but obviously it didn't in your case. Make sure your hydraulics are bled and the pushrod (or whatever) is adjusted correctly? The grinding happens as I'm trying to let out the clutch, having shifted it into reverse--or what should be reverse, I mean the stick is back and to the right but it grinds. It doesn't grind when I'm trying to put it in reverse. Could it still be the clutch? Maybe the shifter bushings? Would low/bad transmission fluid do this? I'm just hoping for anything besides a rebuild.
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Jul 3, 2016 19:29
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slidebite posted:Luckily those transmissions are simple as poo poo to drop. Remember to brace the back of the engine when you pull it. You're supposed to tell me a new set of shifter bushings will fix it 
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Jul 4, 2016 05:21
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How do you get that little bastard bushing pushed onto the ball on the bottom of the lever?
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Jul 9, 2016 17:00
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I got it figured out... I'm talking about the little plastic bushing that sits on the bottom of the push lever and pivots around. I got the new one installed by placing it against the concrete, then tapping the other end of the shift lever with a rubber mallet. Popped right on and it's solid. The problem is, now I've replaced the shifter bushings but the bastard still pops out of reverse! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrunOZjJE1c
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Jul 9, 2016 17:23
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Ok, so I asked in the chat thread about jackstand points, looks like with some scrap wood I'll have no trouble getting it up on jacks. Still scares my poo poo out to have that much weight over my head but I can pull some wheels and lay them down as backups. I don't have a transmission jack, and christ they're expensive. I was hoping I might be able to do the job with a floor jack and perhaps a plank to give the floor jack more lift area. Seem reasonable? Will I be able to get the tranny lined up again like that? Finally, my garage is still kind of chaotic... I'd really prefer to drop the transmission, then put the car back down on the wheels in the driveway while I work on the transmission. Slidebite, can you think of a good way to hold the rear end end of the engine up for all of this? Or should I just plan to clear out a garage bay and leave it on stands the whole time with a floorjack under the back of the engine?
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Jul 28, 2016 01:32
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Well, we got the car jacked up and put on stands, it seems quite sturdy. We drained the transmission, removed the front end of the exhaust, and got some other bits disconnected. We ran into a snag when one of the nuts holding the companion shaft to the diff rounded off pretty thoroughly. We were able to get the others loosened, but I think this one is going to require some Dremel work and a trip to Fastenal. We're hoping to get that nut off, plus remove the starter and slave cylinder, tomorrow. Then Tuesday or Wednesday we can try to unbolt and drop the transmission.
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Jul 31, 2016 23:03
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slidebite posted:U-joint bolts you mean? that sucks. They're a little awkward at the best of times. Well, whatever you call the four bolts+nuts that hold the driveshaft to the diff. Is it easy to get replacement bolts for those? We may end up wrecking the bolt to get the nut off. These have one side flattened off which I guess we could replicate with a dremel but when things are spinning at high speed I like to be precise.
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Aug 1, 2016 01:29
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Everything is now off except for the driveshaft. Removing the starter was ridiculously easy: two bolts, one on top and one on the bottom, and the one on top did double duty holding on the grounding wire. Beats the hell out of the starter on my Mazda truck which had three bolts, not all the same size, and in far more inconvenient spots. Once I get back from Defcon, I'll get that final driveshaft nut off and drop the tranny.
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Aug 4, 2016 14:45
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Well, didn't have any luck with the punch and hammer at getting that nut off. Here it is, can you see any options for getting it off? The crossmember and the diff itself make hammering on one of those sockets that bite into a stuck nut pretty much impossible. The exhaust and the crossmember also mean I can't get my angle grinder in there; I could remove the exhaust but I'm still very leery of waving an angle grinder around in there lest I cut up the u-joint hardware too much. Maybe a small hacksaw blade could slip under the head of the bolt and just cut the shaft off? Maneuvering will be a pain in the rear end still. I'm thinking I'll head down to O'Reilly's and get some vise grips and a torch, try that first.
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Aug 21, 2016 19:38
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Veeb0rg posted:Looks like you've got room for a nut splitter. Maybe... It's pretty small clearance on the opposite side of the nut, so I may be looking at grinding down the nut splitter to fit it on. I bought a propane torch and some vise grips (dunno what happened to my old ones) so I'm going to try that, although in my experience vise grips tend to slip just when you think you've got it.
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Aug 21, 2016 21:12
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 Finally. I just went nuts on it with a dremel and eventually was able to use a chisel to turn it.
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Aug 31, 2016 02:41
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slidebite posted:Good boy. Now drop the drat thing. Gonna get my friend to come help drop it this weekend; according to google the transmission should only be about 70 lbs but I'd rather have some help. I'm not in a huge rush to get it all done because I'm not gonna register it until January, when it no longer needs smog tests for registration. Still, I'd like to get the tranny fixed pretty soon so I can move on to fixing other crap.
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Aug 31, 2016 03:13
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slidebite posted:Yeah, it's not that heavy, but it is awkward underneath the car and a buddy is definitely the way to go. Not only because it's easier, it's also safer. I've got the whole thing up on stands and I mean it feels pretty high but poo poo now I'm gonna have to measure it. Feels like I should be able to just drag it out near the rear.
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Aug 31, 2016 03:50
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I went out to measure clearance and discovered that I'm gonna need to do black widow abatement before I start work, there was definitely one in a web up near the front wheel. 
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Aug 31, 2016 05:33
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Sep 4, 2016 05:51
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Pulling the driveshaft was pretty quick and easy. The transmission wasn't bad either, but it took us at least 20 minutes to get one of the top bolts loose. That thing was drat near impossible to reach, it finally took my friend snaking his hand in from the top to align the wrench while I reached up from underneath to turn it. It's actually pretty light, although I'm glad I had help getting it down. Turns out the car wasn't high enough to get it out but we were planning to take it off the stands anyway, so we just jacked up the rear and pulled it out before dropping the car. Next up, I figure out a workbench, order the rebuild kit, and start tearing it apart. I'm thinking about a chunk of used cabinets from the Habitat for Humanity thrift store as a workbench, that would be a decent height and I'd get some storage too.
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Sep 4, 2016 17:01
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Trying to decide on a rebuild kit. Here's the two best options imo: https://zcardepot.com/driveline/transmission/manual/transmission-rebuild-kit-with-synchros-240z-280z-280zx.html http://www.zcarsource.com/transmission-rebuild-kit-280z-280zx-76-83-5-speed-nonturbo-new_8_78010_197633.html
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Sep 11, 2016 19:41
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Pham Nuwen posted:Trying to decide on a rebuild kit. Here's the two best options imo: I went with the one from zcardepot because it's a little cheaper and I couldn't see any reason to get the other.
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Sep 14, 2016 17:10
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slidebite posted:Is this the same? Yes, but Google turned up only warnings about American Powertrain Warehouse dot com, so I decided to steer clear. Parts never showed up, parts weren't as described, lovely customer service, etc. Is the nut just a regular nut, or will I need to order it from a specialty shop? Can I get a replacement at a Fastenal?
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Sep 14, 2016 18:12
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The rebuild kit's here, there's no nut in there so I'll have to try and order it separate. Is this it? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/20-1640
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Sep 19, 2016 16:54
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We finally cracked open the transmission yesterday. Removing the rear extension wasn't a big deal: But we're sort of stuck on separating the front part of the case from the adapter plate / all the gears 'n poo poo. The manual at http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=280z/1982/1982%20280zx%20FSM/mt seems to suggest holding onto the output shaft and whacking the bell housing with a mallet; this caused the case and the adapter plate to separate by about 1/8" but no more. As far as I can tell, we've done everything listed in the instructions. We pulled the release bearing and withdrawal lever, then removed the front cover and the main drive bearing shim & snap ring. Here's what it looks like inside now:  And here's the rear end:  Have we forgotten something? Do we just need to get rougher with it?
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Oct 17, 2016 15:35
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slidebite posted:Oh man, this is really going back, like early 90s going back. Sorry I can't remember specifics but I don't remember it being super difficult to pull apart. So my friend said the same thing, but there was a smaller snap ring on the inside of the bearing too. The thing you highlighted doesn't appear to have holes for snap ring pliers, while the inner one did; how do you recommend removing it?
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Oct 17, 2016 17:04
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Ok, my snap ring pliers spread it well enough to get a dental pick behind and pull it forward. It's free!  Most of the gears look pretty good, the only visibly hosed up one is the reverse idler gear, shown here:  Is that why it kept popping out of reverse as soon as I'd let the clutch out? Here's some more pics:  Some of the gears have little... grooves? On top of the teeth? You can sort of see them in these pics:   Here's some other random shots:  
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Oct 23, 2016 19:53
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Moving on to the next step in the service manual, pulling the shift forks. I got 2 of the check plugs/springs/bearings out, but the 3rd bearing does not want to come out. I sprayed some PB Blaster in there and we'll see if that loosens it up at all. You can see that smug gently caress down in the second hole:  After getting the check bearings out, I'm supposed to drive out these retaining pins before pulling the shift fork assembly apart:  What tool should I use for that? Just go buy a small punch set, or is there a specific tool I need to get? I'm thinking maybe when I pull out the whole shift fork rod that may make the bearing come out easier.
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Nov 5, 2016 19:17
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Slavvy posted:You need a set of roll pin punches. Hit up Harbor Freight, bought some, they did the trick. I'm sitting here reading up on the next section, wherein I'll be pulling all the gears off. That part is scary as fuuuuuck. Shift forks are off: 
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Nov 5, 2016 22:56
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Slavvy posted:It's really really easy as long as you lay things out exactly the way they came off. Lay them out in the order you remove them, or try to lay them out in approximate relation to how they sit in the assembly? I lean toward the former.
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Nov 6, 2016 01:21
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Well, my drat gear puller is too big to get behind the bearing, so I'll have to see if O'Reilly has one for loan.
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Nov 6, 2016 18:57
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God loving drat it: I was just trying to pull the counter drive gear as described in Gears and Shafts - Main Drive and Counter Drive Gear - Step 7 of the FSM: https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/1982/1982 280zx FSM/mt.pdf Three little chips out of the gear, one where each arm of the puller was. Looks like I must have used the puller wrong. I guess add one more gear I'll have to replace, in addition to the reverse idler gear. I was talking to the guys at the O'Reilly, they said any Datsuns/Nissans that show up at the u-pull get picked clean within a day. They also said that if I can lay hands on an 89 240sx transmission, it should bolt right up, so there's that...
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Nov 6, 2016 20:10
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I'm trying to source replacement gears but they are like loving hen's teeth--it's easier to find a whole other transmission! I called Z Car Source and they said $1689 for an earlier model ZX 5-speed transmission, and that they don't sell gears. I'm looking around for cheap parts cars, people who have transmissions to sell, etc. If anyone in CONUS knows somebody with a derelict 280ZX, ask them if they'll sell the tranny!
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Nov 11, 2016 21:36
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The Door Frame posted:Which transmission is it? It says that there's 2 different 5-speeds online FS5W71B http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=71-series_Transmission#71B
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Nov 12, 2016 22:05
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found a guy with a transmission from an 83, which has the "good" ratios. He's in Phoenix and wants $600. He says it's out of a car with 150k but that he's pretty sure it's been rebuilt; he seems pretty well-known/respected in the zcar forums so I'm slightly more inclined to believe that than some rando from Craigslist. Looks like it comes with a clutch too. I'm not thrilled at the idea of driving to Phoenix so I'm gonna look locally some more, but it seems like an option.
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Nov 14, 2016 03:14
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Located a 280ZX Turbo's T5 transmission at a local salvage yard. Didn't ask if they also have the driveshaft, but it sounds like that should be generally a drop-in replacement? As for the guy in Arizona, I haven't tried haggling with him, but you're right that $600 seems high. I told him I'm still looking locally and will get back to him.
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Nov 16, 2016 22:49
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The salvage yard here in town didn't have the driveshaft. I don't particularly want to convert to the T5 so I've kept looking. Three separate people in Albuquerque have told me I need to contact a guy named Nelson about parts. I finally got his email address from the third guy, and he responded today saying he's out of town but will be back Tuesday, and that he's pretty sure he's got something that will work for me. Fingers crossed.
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Dec 9, 2016 19:19
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slidebite posted:Oh god, this thread has turned into a career for you. There's one on Craigslist for $1000, including a spare L28, but I don't have space for a parts car. My garage and driveway are full.
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Dec 9, 2016 20:44
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thebigcow posted:What about your lawn? The funny thing is, if I put it on the lawn I'd actually free up space in the driveway, because my wife would definitely take her car with her when she leaves me. (Serious answer, the front yard has big rocks, giant planters, and some trees in it, and it looks pretty nice. There's room on the street in front of the house but I'm just really not interested in dealing with another vehicle right now)
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Dec 9, 2016 21:41
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