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I found something good
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May 25, 2017 15:04
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 12:38 |
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The Datsun is registered and insured. I think I'll take it for its maiden voyage tonight, a few miles down the road to that ethanol-free gas pump
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Jun 5, 2017 16:51
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Raluek posted:I think you accidentally a few words Your optimism is admirable. I should probably get an alignment before too long, although before doing that I should determine if I need new suspension components up front. I know for a fact that the rear shocks have gone to crap, but I'm more concerned about the state of the ball joints and such up front.
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Jun 5, 2017 20:28
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Drove to the Z Car Club meeting tonight. Engine was great, the rear end was a little loud but it seemed to get quieter after a bit. Things it needs now:
Edit: where do you upload pictures now that imgur apparently doesn't let you upload from a phone without installing the app. Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Jun 9, 2017 |
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Jun 9, 2017 04:41
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Larrymer posted:Install the app? gently caress that, I'll just find a new image host instead. Meanwhile, uploaded from my desktop: 
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Jun 9, 2017 15:32
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So image host chat aside, I've got this noise at the rear end. It seems to become noticeable around 15mph and is present while accelerating, holding speed, or slowing down. It's pretty high pitched, not piercing but definitely a source of consternation. It seems like there shouldn't be too many possibilities: diff or wheel bearings, right? I just realized I haven't lubed the u-joint and I'll get that done before I drive any more. Given the description of the noise, any ideas what's going on? I didn't really do anything on the rear end of the drivetrain except change the diff oil.
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Jun 10, 2017 23:20
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Slavvy posted:Probably the diff, wheel bearings tend to be lower pitched and you can change the intensity by swerving side to side (unless both are equally smoked). I'm of the opinion that you worry far too much, it's a just a rugged old nissan and will long outlive you provided you don't start doing stupid poo poo to it. I'm happy to drive it till it dies but the whine is real obnoxious
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Jun 11, 2017 06:26
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orange juche posted:Ignore my post about diffs exploding and making you wreck, that can happen with a 4wd locking diff system, I rode through what happens when the front diff in a jeep grenades while moving, and it is not fun. LSDs just go POP and grind and you wheel it over to the side of the road and call a tow truck. No finned rear cover. If it won't explode, I'll just drive the drat thing for now. It was very slightly overfilled (checked this morning) but I'd be awfully surprised if that 50cc of extra oil was causing any problems. This evening, I went ahead and threw in an aftermarket rear view mirror that will tide me over until I can find a nice red replacement for the original:  I also tore off the rubber bullshit that runs down the sides of the cars... I'm leaving the rubber poo poo on the front and rear bumpers but since it was already missing from the doors I went ahead and removed it immediately ahead of and behind the doors too. You can see the black rubber poo poo I'm talking about in this pic:  Ahead of the front wheel and behind the rear wheel is staying on. I blew a bunch of dust out from behind the right side mirror but it still doesn't work. I'd just as soon rip these off and put mirrors up on the fenders in the Japanese style, so now that I have a rear-view again I'm not too worried about the passenger mirror. Edit: Anyone got tips for removing the nasty thick rock-hard glue that was holding on those rubber bits? It kinda feels like it'll just gunk up sandpaper. And for cleaning up oxidized paint in preparation for a rattlecan job? Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Jun 13, 2017 |
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Jun 13, 2017 03:26
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I've been driving the car to work occasionally and it seems to do fine. Kind of loud at the rear end when I'm going over 35-ish but that's all. I'm currently trying to decide what I want to do for painting. Even on a Midget, the Rustoleum roll-on paintjob took forever, so I'm leaning toward rattlecan. Valspar black or white gloss is $1/can at Lowes, but those are also the most boring colors. I'm definitely thinking of adding stripes or chevrons of some sort, though, so maybe black with orange and red stripes in an 80s style?
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Jul 25, 2017 20:17
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Darchangel posted:If you had an air compressor, I would say buy a $12 Harbor Freight HVLP gun. Even that cheap a gun will spray a ton better than any spray can, ever. I sprayed the top half of my '90 RX-7 with Rustoleum satin black, thinned with mineral spirits, through one, and it worked great (failed clear coat and surface rust was irritating me, and I was out of work, so had the time). Yeah I really would prefer to use a HVLP gun but I don't have an air compressor, nobody I know has an air compressor, and between the added expense and the fact that I'd have to figure out somewhere for it in my overcrowded garage, I'm not sure if it'll happen. Still, I should check craigslist and maybe set up an alert. I got some experience in prep work when I did the Midget's paint job, and I guess I'll apply the same lessons here. I'm wondering about marine topcoat, because it's apparently meant to be rolled or brushed on in only one or two coats. Also it seems like the $1/can Valspar stuff isn't really suitable for much beyond touching up your mailbox... I'd hoped it was cheap due to economies of scale but it sounds like it's just cheap because it's bad.
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Jul 25, 2017 23:53
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Harbor Freight has a sale, 28 gallon compressor for $150... not sure if I trust a Chinesium pressure tank though.
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Jul 28, 2017 19:47
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Update: No update. It's not painted, but I've been driving it a bit. Just wanted to hold the thread out of archives while I can remember.
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Oct 1, 2017 00:45
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For a variety of reasons I didn't drive the Datsun for a couple months, and then when I went to start it again in early November it didn't run very well. Kind of rough idle, and when I hit the accelerator it'll often stop firing completely for a second, sputter for a bit, and finally start to increase RPM. I replaced the coil, since it's the only part of the ignition system I hadn't changed out yet (I did the cap, rotor, wires, and plugs last year). It's still the same. I pulled a couple plugs and they're wet with fuel. Things I suspect:
Maybe I finally ought to just order a drat fuel pressure gauge so I can tell I'm getting enough fuel...
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Dec 2, 2017 23:21
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Raluek posted:Is it one of those FPRs that is connected to vacuum, where a failure mode is sucking gas through the vacuum line? Just checked, no gas in the vacuum line. One end was cracked, so I trimmed that off and tried again, but it still ran poorly. I made a video but of course engine noise never comes across well in videos; you can sort of hear what I'm talking about at the very beginning and the very end of the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYm58cFWOWI Edit: Ya know, I have a vacuum tester... I guess I'll hook that up tomorrow if I have some time, see how leaky my poo poo is? Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Dec 3, 2017 |
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Dec 3, 2017 00:59
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Replaced a bunch of vacuum lines a while back and saw maybe minor improvements, forgot to try the vacuum tester because I always forget to do what I say I'm gonna do. Tightened up the bolts where the exhaust connects to the exhaust manifold just to be safe. Today I hooked up the vacuum tester and saw an idle vacuum of about 14 inches. If I goosed the throttle a little, it would drop to 0 and once or twice the engine seemed to make a pop kind of noise and the vacuum appeared to drop below 0. Gently increasing throttle causes the vacuum to drop to 5-10ish and sorta fluctuate as I continue to add throttle, but it stayed below 14. When I let off the throttle, vacuum bumped up to 20ish and dropped down to 14 again. I replaced another bit of vacuum line in the cruise control system (which appears to involve three separate components all wired together with vacuum hose), disconnecting the negative battery lead in the process. When I reconnected it, the engine ran better and the vacuum levels were more sensible: 15 at idle, drops to 2ish when I goose it with no popping, doesn't drop much below 10 when I start throttling up gently and rises steadily to a 14ish as I add throttle. I don't know if it will continue to run ok, we'll see I guess. Edit: same 
Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Jan 1, 2018 |
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Dec 31, 2017 23:48
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 12:38 |
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slidebite posted:Is it idling @ 1200RPM when warm? No, 700.
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Jan 1, 2018 02:16
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