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If you disable the fuel pump and just crank it to determine oil pressure and compression, the 10 year old poo poo will be fine. Definitely change it before starting it though, no sense in bruising what might be a perfectly good engine.
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May 13, 2016 01:24
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Pham Nuwen posted:This was my plan, I figure it probably won't hurt it to run the old oil for a few cranks with the plugs out while I test compression. I'll have to figure out how to disable the fuel pump, find the appropriate wires to disconnect I guess. TBH it might be a good idea to disable spark, leave the pump hooked up but have the inlet hose pointing into a bottle while you crank. This'll let you get an idea of the condition of the fuel and will stop any garbage that made it past the filter hitting your injectors when you do eventually start it.
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May 13, 2016 02:51
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slidebite posted:IIRC and this is really going back, back of car.. I'm thinking RH side of tank? Shouldn't be that hard to find. Follow the lines if you have to. It's not in in tank pump. Filter is super easy to replace, you've probably already seen it. This is extra good because if the pump has poo poo itself you can replace it with a generic in-line one with the same pressure really easily.
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May 13, 2016 05:43
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Pham Nuwen posted:We dropped the fuel tank and drained the nasty old gas. Got an air compressor?
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May 22, 2016 05:04
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Pfft it's a manual. A floor jack is nice to have, optionally, but realistically you just need two people. They're much lighter and less awkward than they seem.
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Jul 28, 2016 01:48
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slidebite posted:And yes, they are correct with high enough. You will need to get that front end quite high to let the bellhousing clear. If you think you have it high enough, add a few inches. I've had success before by leaving the wheels on the car, jacking it up and putting rims+tyres on their sides under the wheels, effectively adding as much ground clearance as the width of the tyres it's sitting on. Worked pretty well on my various 80's BMW's.
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Jul 30, 2016 04:17
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Pham Nuwen posted:Well, whatever you call the four bolts+nuts that hold the driveshaft to the diff. I've replaced countless ones of these with normal high-tensile nuts + bolts on my own mercilessly thrashed cars and never had any issue. They're designed that way for ease of assembly and nothing else, any bolts you buy will likely be stronger than what was in there to start with. It's a good idea to swap all four so they're all the same though.
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Aug 1, 2016 01:37
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Pham Nuwen posted:So my friend said the same thing, but there was a smaller snap ring on the inside of the bearing too. The thing you highlighted doesn't appear to have holes for snap ring pliers, while the inner one did; how do you recommend removing it? You can still use your snap ring pliers to take it out, just do it carefully. Or: 
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Oct 17, 2016 18:49
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Raluek posted:Which you can get cheaper as the Williams version (who make the Snap-On one anyway) It was the first one that came up in GIS. Do you know this for a fact? Genuine question, I'm not a snap-on fanboy in any way. slidebite posted:That's quite possibly the only snap ring like that in the entire car. Don't bother buying a pair of pliers just for it. Just work it and pry it out You're advising against buying more tools??
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Oct 18, 2016 08:17
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Grooves are normal. That reverse gear looks reasonable for the age of the car, if it's popping out I would imagine you have a problem with the detent or shift fork doodads.
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Oct 24, 2016 08:14
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You need a set of roll pin punches.
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Nov 5, 2016 20:06
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It's really really easy as long as you lay things out exactly the way they came off.
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Nov 6, 2016 00:50
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slidebite posted:It doesn't matter. With everything out you have plenty of room. A proper sized socket and a few gentle taps with a hammer it'll slide right in. If you wait until later, just don't forget about it. Or do, and post pictures.
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Feb 16, 2017 05:36
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To me those holes look like they're for a brace that goes from the bell housing to the block, but that would require the trans to have some corresponding holes. Did you check the old trans to see if it also didn't have any holes?
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Mar 22, 2017 19:03
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Pham Nuwen posted:I just get spooky about poo poo. I should go to the DMV on Monday and just get it registered and drive the drat thing. Yup you should. If poo poo's gonna break it's gonna break and opinions don't matter worth a drat. Just have someone in a tow vehicle follow you.
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May 21, 2017 07:22
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Probably the diff, wheel bearings tend to be lower pitched and you can change the intensity by swerving side to side (unless both are equally smoked). I'm of the opinion that you worry far too much, it's a just a rugged old nissan and will long outlive you provided you don't start doing stupid poo poo to it.
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Jun 11, 2017 06:22
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 09:25 |
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Get you a heat gun, son.
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Jun 13, 2017 08:03
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