|
The L series motors are reliable and relatively easy to work on. Pay attention to the harmonic balancer and make sure the rubber hasn't started to separate from the rest of it. Also, get into the rear hatch area and pull out the tool carrier and take off the interior trim pieces and inspect for any rust from the inside. I understand you are in the desert, but those tail light seals often go bad which will result in water easily getting inside whenever you wash your car.
|
#
¿
May 12, 2016 14:17
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 08:53 |
|
|
^^ To this day, I lust after a minty 82-83 Turbo 2 seater.Pham Nuwen posted:We pulled up the trim in the back and had a look last night, I guess I don't remember looking right under the taillights but here's the pictures we took: That looks pretty good. Those rear interior panels all come off with a minimum of fuss. The one on the left is where the jack/tool kit is and the one on the right is where the spare is. IIRC there is a rubber plug at the bottom for draining. Make sure it's still there. If it's not and drive down a dusty road, your car will be full of dust inside. If you pull off the rearmost panel, you'll be able to see the back of the taillights and be easier to see if you have any seal issues.
|
|
#
¿
May 12, 2016 17:57
|
|
|
IIRC and this is really going back, back of car.. I'm thinking RH side of tank? Shouldn't be that hard to find. Follow the lines if you have to. It's not in in tank pump. Filter is super easy to replace, you've probably already seen it. Z-Car community used to be pretty big on the internet, I can't imagine it's gone.
|
|
#
¿
May 13, 2016 03:12
|
|
|
Yes 82-83 all had a naca duct.
|
|
#
¿
May 14, 2016 00:16
|
|
|
Yeah, try turning/jiggling the key as you turn it and maybe pushing down on it. If you still can't get it off it might be hosed.
|
|
#
¿
May 20, 2016 19:41
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:That's the backup plan. Do you just drill straight into the keyhole? Once the lock is drilled out, can the gas cap still function as a non-locking gas cap or do I need to hit up Rockauto? (which has let me down before, when I ordered a Stant gas cap for my Studebaker and it didn't fit at all)
|
|
#
¿
May 20, 2016 20:46
|
|
|
Replace every fluid and rubber line/hose in that car. Fuel, vacuum, brakes. After you change the oil & filter and fuel filter, do the filters again a week later. Remember standard old school brake fluid is hygroscopic so there is a real chance the steel tubing used in the lines need to be done too. Also, in case you didn't know the oil filter is a standard old school Ford V8 filter from something like the 60s to the 90s.
|
|
#
¿
May 22, 2016 17:53
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:How do I check the steel brake tubing for goodness? See if there are any holes  Disconnect some, see if you have any rusty looking fluid dripping out of it. e: quote:After this gunky tank nonsense I'm planning on putting a fuel filter before the fuel pump as well. \/ Yeah, when you bleed the brakes you'll probably find if it leaks. \/ slidebite fucked around with this message at 19:14 on May 22, 2016 |
|
#
¿
May 22, 2016 19:08
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:Edit: looks like my fuel tank was made October 29 of the 56th year of the Showa period, aka Oct 29 1982.
|
|
#
¿
May 22, 2016 23:45
|
|
|
Don't do that for all sorts of reasons. Just size it yourself and buy a big enough roll and bunch of hose clamps.
|
|
#
¿
May 25, 2016 03:00
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:I need a couple feet each of at least 3 different sized hoses. I'm also trying to figure out why the lines at the rear have that mesh outer coating... is it to prevent the line from breaking if a rock gets kicked up? quote:I'll probably buy a roll of vacuum line, though, since it seems to be the same size in most places. Edit: a roll of vacuum line to replace vacuum lines, not fuel lines, c'mon people.
|
|
#
¿
May 25, 2016 19:04
|
|
|
Assuming that's the discharge side don't be stuck on putting it there, you can put it anywhere. Also, if that's the discharge side is it rated for enough pressure and do you want a plastic body filter that close to the rear wheels? Is it exposed to any debris there?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 25, 2016 01:46
|
|
|
It looks like that pump has a threaded barb fitting on it. Put an elbow there. e: Pull out that fitting with the hex on it, replace it with either a 90 or a 90 barb. I'd rather a metal body inline filter than a piece of mesh around this, but I guess it's better than nothing.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 25, 2016 01:59
|
|
|
Can you not just remove the barb (arrow) and put in the 90? It looks far enough back from the photo to not interfere with the shield..? Or, worse case, but a 90 barb in the hose, but that looks amateur e: OOH, I think I see what you mean. Yeah, the filter won't literally fit under the shield where that line is. If there is nowhere else to put the filter, yeah, look for a filter with a 90. They exist. And try to find one with a metal body. slidebite fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Jun 25, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Jun 25, 2016 02:15
|
|
|
Wix makes good filters.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 25, 2016 14:27
|
|
|
I know people slam the old jetronic EFI systems but in those things it really is a workhorse and the L-series is super robust.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 26, 2016 00:17
|
|
|
My money would be on the slave and/or master. You might be able to get a reman unit for cheap which I would recommend over rebuilding yourself.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 26, 2016 23:14
|
|
|
Nope that is exactly what you should do. e: Don't forget to check the condition of your lines while you're at it and invite a "friend" over for the enjoyable bleeding process.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 26, 2016 23:17
|
|
|
Luckily those transmissions are simple as poo poo to drop. Remember to brace the back of the engine when you pull it.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 4, 2016 05:09
|
|
|
Sorry, the only transmission work I've done on a ZX was watching a buddy tear his down while I drank beer. Done quite a few clutches though! 
|
|
#
¿
Jul 4, 2016 06:19
|
|
|
I don't remember what you're talking about exactly, got a photo? But nothing was difficult. Hardest was probably a couple of the bell housing bolts which required a mix of universals and extensions. Working on a ZX is literally a 20 year old memory for me at this point. You do have a Haynes manual or something right? It is simple but instructions are handy for the first time. E: Isn't there just a snap ring or E-clip on the pin for the lever that you just remove and then just pull the lever out? slidebite fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Jul 9, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Jul 9, 2016 17:06
|
|
|
Well I remember back in the day my buddies 5th kept popping out because a nut backed off. I think you're at dropping the tranny and opening it up stage.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 9, 2016 17:51
|
|
|
I have done clutches in those probably 6 times and never once used a transmission jack. Use a decent trolly and have a buddy. The hardest part will be lining it back up with the clutch for install. A transmission jack, or adapter for a trolly jack ($100?) would probably be best but you absolutely can do it without one. E: Just saw you asking about the engine support. I always just used a baby trolly jack with a 2x4. In a pinch you could block it or use some other jack ...even once used a scissor jack. slidebite fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Jul 28, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Jul 28, 2016 02:06
|
|
|
And yes, they are correct with high enough. You will need to get that front end quite high to let the bellhousing clear. If you think you have it high enough, add a few inches. And also drain the transmission first. Do the clutch and pilot bearing while you're in there. You shouldn't need to disconnect the slave - IIRC you can safely let it hang. Spray some penetrating oil at the u-joint yoke on the rear-diff now and let it work if you haven't already.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 30, 2016 01:07
|
|
|
U-joint bolts you mean? that sucks. They're a little awkward at the best of times. Glad your not anxious. If you've never done it before biting it off in manageable days is not a crazy idea. Good luck.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 1, 2016 00:49
|
|
|
I truly don't know how hard it would be to find. Might want to try a driveline place if you have trouble. Don't be worried about balance or anything like that with such a tight diameter, a nick in a bolt head there would be inconsequential. While you are at it you might want to replace that u joint at the diff. It should be quite cheap.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 1, 2016 01:38
|
|
|
If you can't get it off with a splitter or heat cut or grind it. If you use heat be careful you don't get the pinion seal too hot. Bring a spray bottle of water with you to keep it cool.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 22, 2016 04:15
|
|
|
I am fascinated with how rust free the underside of that 34 year old datsun is.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 22, 2016 16:04
|
|
|
Good boy. Now drop the drat thing.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 31, 2016 03:05
|
|
|
Yeah, it's not that heavy, but it is awkward underneath the car and a buddy is definitely the way to go. Not only because it's easier, it's also safer. You are sure the front is jacked up enough for you to drag it out?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 31, 2016 03:29
|
|
|
Is this the same? http://www.americanpowertrainwareho...pickup-bk104ws/ Also, there should be a nut on the mainshaft which needs to be replaced when you take it apart.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 14, 2016 18:01
|
|
|
It's a special nut and IIRC they made a LHT version as well. Not sure what an 82 would have but I assume it should still have a nut at least. It's a pretty fine thread and gets torqued up quite high.. I think close to 200 ft/lbs or something. If you have a Haynes (or whatever) manual it should mention it.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 14, 2016 18:24
|
|
|
Oh man, this is really going back, like early 90s going back. Sorry I can't remember specifics but I don't remember it being super difficult to pull apart. However, your linked manual mentions pulling the snap ring off the bearing on step 4 of disassembly. It still looks like it's still on the outer race of the bearing in your photo. Also, sorry I didn't reply to your earlier nut question. I was in Hawaii for most of September and didn't have regular internet access. Yes, that looks like the correct nut but I seem to recall some being LH and RH threads so just be sure yours matches your old one. ee: There might be asbestos in that friction disc dust, so wear a mask if you're whacking it and hose it out. slidebite fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Oct 17, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2016 16:48
|
|
|
That is a bearing snap ring - it doesn't have holes/eyes in it like the kind you are thinking of. Get behind and under it with with a narrow flat head screw driver or something pry it up out of the groove and yank it out. Your new bearing should have come with one so you shouldn't have to worry about wrecking it. If you have a narrow set of needle nose pliers you might be able to spread it a little to help.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2016 18:05
|
|
|
That's quite possibly the only snap ring like that in the entire car. Don't bother buying a pair of pliers just for it. Just work it and pry it out 
|
|
#
¿
Oct 18, 2016 00:58
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:You're advising against buying more tools??  Williams is part of the Snap-On industrial brands division and there is a ton of crossover. http://www.snaponindustrialbrands.com/30/home.htm
|
|
#
¿
Oct 18, 2016 14:17
|
|
|
Take your time, take pictures and you'll be fine. Oh, yeah, don't gently caress up any gears with your pullers!
|
|
#
¿
Nov 6, 2016 07:28
|
|
|
Iirc the transmission internals are pretty much the exact same for the maxima and pickup.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 12, 2016 07:28
|
|
|
If I remember correctly, the 280ZX and 300ZX Turbos used a type of BW T5. So, not one of those.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 12, 2016 20:13
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 08:53 |
|
|
$600 firm or is that what he's asking? Offer him $300 and see what he says. Unless he can prove it's rebuilt it's basically a 150K transmission. it's sort of too bad you already bought the rebuild kit because it might be fine and you could hopefully just drop it in.
slidebite fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Nov 14, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Nov 14, 2016 03:42
|
|