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Oh god, this thread has turned into a career for you.  Keep your eyes open for complete cars. If you can buy a trash-heap ZX for a parts car, go for it.
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Dec 9, 2016 20:32
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Good stuff. A local guy like that can be a great help too if he is open to it. Sounds like things might be looking up a bit for you.
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Dec 18, 2016 00:28
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If you are doing the clutch don't forget about resurfacing the flywheel.
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Feb 13, 2017 05:32
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Yeah you really should use an impact. I would try wedging a prybar or something off the starter ring gear teeth on the flywheel though instead of the front of the motor.
slidebite fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Feb 14, 2017 |
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Feb 14, 2017 02:36
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I wouldn't go less than that. Probably 110. A dab of blue is fine.
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Feb 14, 2017 03:58
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It doesn't matter. With everything out you have plenty of room. A proper sized socket and a few gentle taps with a hammer it'll slide right in. If you wait until later, just don't forget about it.
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Feb 15, 2017 19:41
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Well that sucks.
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Feb 18, 2017 07:38
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You're a little limited. The problem with something that isn't in a running car or if you can't disassemble it; you're only going to feel something by hand/hear something if it's really hosed. If it's drained of oil, run your finger around the drain hole and look for any chunks of alarming size. If it isn't drained, even better and do it yourself and look for debris. But other than that, yeah, spin it best you can and look for anything obvious. Maybe bring your shifter with you if it no longer has one to help you go through the gears. Hopefully that guy isn't going to give you a bum transmission after what he put you through.
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Mar 18, 2017 15:24
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Plain 80w90 would be fine.
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Mar 19, 2017 07:31
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Yes, GL4 which should be the easiest to find either way. No name Walmart oil should be GL4 rated.
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Mar 19, 2017 15:46
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1500quidporsche posted:Has anybody ever tested out the GL-5 eats old synchros thing? You read about it all the time on car specific forums and it's always seemed more likely that the cause of synchro failure has been having the thing rammed into 1st and 2nd it's whole life without a fluid change. It's easy enough to use GL-4 stuff for peace of mind but I'd be curious if there was any hard data on it. I'm pretty skeptical tbh. Pham Nuwen posted:Transmission acquired. I've removed the majority of the oil and gunk from the outside; most of the gear oil poured itself out into the bed of my truck, but at least it looked very clear and good. In 30 minutes or so, I'm heading to O'Reillys for a rear seal, 2L of GL-4 for the tranmission and 1.3L of GL-5 for the diff. Good luck man 
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Mar 20, 2017 01:05
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Assuming you are going to fill it after it's installed (it'll puke out the output shaft if you don't plug it) pick up a suction gun if you don't already have one. It will make the process of filling it much, MUCH simpler.
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Mar 20, 2017 17:42
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How do you know adequate fuel is at the rails? Make sure you didn't accidentally disconnect something. Put a pressure guage on it and make sure your filter isn't plugged. You had it running before right? I can't see anything getting plugged up since then and even if it did the chances all of them did is not high. I bet it's something basic.
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Mar 31, 2017 05:40
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Sounds like fuel to me. Check fuel pressure and make sure none of your relays are loose. Also all electrical connections on the harness are tight.
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Apr 1, 2017 23:57
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I'm not a fan of used tires although I've never heard of Barum before... but I see they are a czech subsidiary of Continental so I guess that's OK, or better than some of those dangerous as hell chinese tires. If you are on a super tight budget, I'd probably go for those new over the used Touring T/A.
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Apr 7, 2017 19:16
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I think that's a good call. Did you do the rest of the fluids yet? Brake fluid, PS? That brake fluid will probably be full of water by now. Which reminds me, I need to do mine too. Check the flexible hoses for cracking if you haven't already. IIRC brake parts are dirt cheap on those, except rear calipers which were pretty costly back in the day, I assume due to them being Z-specific and not sharing them with any other datsun of that vintage.
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Apr 10, 2017 20:04
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I think you are on the right track, probably a sticky piston/slider pins. IIRC (and really, this is iirc as it's going back 25+ years) the parking brake had a mechanism to drive the inboard piston out and it was a bit of a sticking point. It was a little fussy. I'd probably get access to the caliper, take off the parking brake cable, rotate it up (I think you can without removing it), remove the pads and spin the piston in. It has notches to rotate it inwards. Do NOT just try to press the piston in like 99% of other cars, it rotates in. You can buy a tool to do it or, depending how sticky it is, you might be able to rotate it with a flat head screwdriver or something else that fits in the notches. If you can buy a reman caliper from your local parts supplier of choice, it might be worthwhile to just do that instead of rebuilding it. Don't forget rattle plates and the hardware kit. You can re-use a lot of that poo poo, but they don't cost much when new so I'd just get new stuff all around if you tackle it. Remember that whenever you work on brakes, the brake fluid in the master will rise if you bring in any of the pistons. So ensure you either suck some fluid out or stuff rags/paper towels all around the master cylinder to catch any brake fluid that gets pushed out. Better yet, do both. slidebite fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Apr 11, 2017 |
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Apr 11, 2017 03:33
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That's pretty tough to tell. Can you narrow it down to someplace specifically on the caliper? Be careful if you're bending around the axle with it idling like that. Don't want you to be in the failure thread.
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Apr 12, 2017 02:34
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Do you think there is something still wrong with the car that needs a 2nd opinion?
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May 20, 2017 17:18
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Pham Nuwen posted:Just checked, no gas in the vacuum line. One end was cracked, so I trimmed that off and tried again, but it still ran poorly. Is it idling @ 1200RPM when warm?
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Jan 1, 2018 01:59
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