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Pham Nuwen posted:So as of January 2017 this vehicle will not need to be emissions tested in the state of New Mexico. I'm kinda thinking about not even bothering to register it until then, just keep fettling it and driving up and down the street in front of my house. Otherwise, if you fail an emissions test and get a shop quote for over $300 repairs, they'll give you a 1 year temporary registration... and provided there aren't any weird conditions attached to that registration, after a year it would be past the rolling 35 year cutoff. Isn't Albuquerque metro the only part of NM that does emissions?
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# ¿ May 12, 2016 04:15 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 14:21 |
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Pham Nuwen posted:Edit: looks like my fuel tank was made October 29 of the 56th year of the Showa period, aka Oct 29 1982. Showa 56 would be actually 1981. Source. 1982 model year production was 8/81 through 8/82, so that's very likely the original tank. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:57 on May 25, 2016 |
# ¿ May 25, 2016 03:48 |
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I thought it was 1982 too until I looked up a calendar.
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# ¿ May 25, 2016 05:02 |
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That engine doesn't sound bad at all. drat.th vwls hv scpd posted:I agree with Jonny 290. Any time I've had a slave cylinder die the pedal always stuck to the floor. Nthing this, it's been my experience as well.
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# ¿ Jul 2, 2016 19:39 |
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I'd bet on the clutch not disengaging fully, or a hosed throwout bearing. Even if you don't have a synchro on reverse, going into a forward gear first will stop the guts of the gearbox from spinning. Even if you didn't do that first, it should only grind briefly while going into reverse.
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# ¿ Jul 2, 2016 22:17 |
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A new set of shifter bushings won't hurt, is that the answer you're looking for? It's the easiest fix. It may or may not work, but it needs doing anyway.
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# ¿ Jul 4, 2016 06:03 |
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IIRC Albuquerque has some decent hills. You don't really NEED reverse (as long as you park facing uphill)
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# ¿ Jul 10, 2016 06:30 |
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Can't say I've ever seen a transmission that needed its own cat.
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# ¿ Sep 4, 2016 07:35 |
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Try to find GL-4 fluid if possible. I know at least on 90s Nissans, the synchros really don't like GL-5. I mean.. I've put "GL-4/GL-5 compatible!!1!" fluid in a Nissan before and it worked fine, but that was a beater. The reading I've done in the past (and the quick google I just did) suggests the GL-4/GL-5 combo rated fluids are fairly safe for Nissan gearboxes. IIRC Coastal branded gearbox oil is pretty safe, so long as it mentions GL-4 on the bottle (even if it mentions GL-5 too). I know Pep Boys carries it, I think AutoZone does too. Something relatively close to 80w90 will work. I think I was running 75w85 in my Altima. e: I seem to remember GM Synchromesh compatible fluids being basically a lighter weight GL-4. Pennzoil makes a version that's pretty cheap and usually on the shelf at parts stores. Found several threads saying people are running it in 2xxZ cars with no issue. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:06 on Mar 19, 2017 |
# ¿ Mar 19, 2017 09:04 |
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I've had a couple of sets of Barums, they're not terrible. Especially for the price. No way in hell would I pay $250 for a set of used tires unless they were something really hard to find.
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# ¿ Apr 7, 2017 21:09 |
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Might want to check out the wheel bearing too. My Altima was making the same noise when a couple of balls from the wheel bearing decided to escape.
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# ¿ Apr 12, 2017 02:42 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 14:21 |
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You could do what 99% of car owners do. orange juche posted:On the other hand a diff seizing at highway speed can cause you to have a rather violent wreck. That's probably more of a concern. But there's enough of those around that I can't see it costing a fortune to swap the rear... right? Slavvy posted:will long outlive you provided you don't start doing stupid poo poo to it. He's not wearing pajamas while driving, this automatically triples his IQ (as a minimum). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:37 on Jun 11, 2017 |
# ¿ Jun 11, 2017 08:35 |