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Finished up my NR200/5900x (w/FUMA 2 cooler)/3080 build. BIOS says CPU is idling ~70C... which means I probably hosed up on the thermal paste, right? Did the pea method. Cooler itself is firmly attached and level, and fans are oriented to exhaust out the back.
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Nov 12, 2020 01:43
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 15:10 |
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ufarn posted:Open it in HWINFO64 and see if it's constant 70C or if it goes up and down in a weird sawtooth pattern. You can also right click on a value and get it as a graph to make things easier. Yup, HWINFO will be the first program going in after the Windows install finishes. I did alternate between screws, but maybe the paste still didn't spread evenly enough, I dunno.
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Nov 12, 2020 01:56
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Jeff Fatwood posted:I've noticed that the pea method definitely doesn't work well for Ryzen because the dies are scattered inside the heatspreader and not in the middle. The pea method just isn't enough for the corners. I haven't done a cross but I imagine that's the best one. I put a line striking through the R That's curious because when I pulled the cooler off, the paste was definitely thicker towards the edges than the center of the chip, yet I was still getting 70C temps. Ugggh. Honestly the whole thing's currently moot as, before I removed the cooler, I tried applying a XMP profile and now the board won't boot properly. Everything powers on, but it's just a black screen and I can only turn off the computer by holding down the power button. Might be the memory, might be the GPU (the power pins in one of the connectors were a bit hosed, but I managed to move them back into place and get it to output for that first boot). Guess I'm spending the next few days troubleshooting. 
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Nov 12, 2020 15:33
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Following up, I reseated the cooler with the line-through-the-Ryzen method for the thermal paste. BIOS still shows as hot but HWiNFO says it's a cool 35C. 
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Nov 12, 2020 23:06
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The industrial fabricator/mobo combo of the future!
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Jan 9, 2021 00:23
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Oh, wonderful. The power button on my NR200 is now frequently requiring a few presses to actually work. This is probably a case thing, right?
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May 26, 2021 14:34
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Seems like the case is beginning to circulate among the tech Youtubers https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9MRhehneqd0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GX07rRjvtFk And the price is $349 USD so this does indeed seem like a banger of a deal
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Sep 2, 2021 01:09
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I'm actually kind of bummed that they're not including a third PCI cable with the PSU, though. Really don't want to have to order custom cables lol I suppose daisy-chaining is still out of the question, especially on a GPU as power-hungry as a 3080 Ti?
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Sep 3, 2021 01:49
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Conversely, when I set my Fuma 2 fans to intake (which is to say, exhausting *into* the NR200) my non-CPU in-case temps shot up. Stuff like my GPU and m.2 SSD were reporting 5-6 degrees higher than previously and the PSU cage was now hot to the touch. Though tbfI only had two top exhaust fans at that point as my chungus 3080 didn't even allow for slim fans on the bottom of the case
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Sep 7, 2021 14:38
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VorpalFish posted:Oh all exhaust probably only works with vented panel. Glass changes everything. This was with the vented panel, but granted this was also with the 5900x, a certified Hot-rear end Chip Either way I'm hoping switching to the AIO in the NR200P MAX solves things (not to mention finally having room for bottom intakes since the card will be vertical)
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Sep 7, 2021 14:47
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Even if you removed the shroud and fans from your 3080? The idea in this setup is to forsake the stock GPU fans and sit your fatass GPU heatsink directly on top of the bottom case fans. This never occurred to me, though I imagine even if it had, I would have been too much of a pansy to even partially take apart my extremely-rare and top-of-the-line GPU lol (though I have since gone as far to remove shroud, fans, and heatsink on other, older GPUs)
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Sep 7, 2021 14:51
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Finally got tired of the NR200P MAX delays (and I'd be genuinely surprised if they actually stuck to that $350 MSRP anyway) so I think I'll be hopping on the somewhat cheaper Meshilicious train instead Motherboard: B550i Aorus Pro AX CPU: R9 5900x* CPU Cooler: MasterLiquid ML280 Mirror ARGB RAM: OLOy 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4 3600* Storage: GIGABYTE AORUS NVMe Gen4 M.2 1TB SSD* GPU: EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti FTW3 ULTRA* PSU: Seasonic FOCUS PX-850 80+ Platinum* OS: Windows 11  The * parts are all from my current PC; part of the reason I'm doing this is the ATX PSU compatibility (though I expect it'll take a bit of cable managing to keep the cooler fans clear). The ML280 had suspiciously few reviews but the price was too (relatively) good to ignore. They were largely positive, at least. And hey, my first liquid cooler build!
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Sep 30, 2021 03:22
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Romes128 posted:The ATX PSU might be tight if you put the AIO tubes at the bottom. Maybe consider some slim fans for the rad. Any downsides to having the tubes come from the top like here? 
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Sep 30, 2021 04:00
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It may be dubiously cable-managed, but it's done: I ended up going with a SF750 because I immediately could tell how much of a pain in the rear end situating the ATX would be (and I only have one 120mm slim fan). Yes, I'm daisy-chaining on my 3-connector 3080 Ti but the capacity limits of 288W per cable and 150W per connector tells me I should be good. After I took this photo, I replaced the CM fans with Be Quiet ones because the motor on the bottom fan was buzzing annoyingly. Still not crazy about the GPU cables being a literal hair's width away from the fans, might fiddle with some different cable management eventually. My only real issue is my SSD which runs a bit hot because, from what I can tell, it shares a heat pipe with the VRMs!?! Interesting design choice, Gigabyte. Cross-Section fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Oct 3, 2021 |
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Oct 3, 2021 17:19
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Romes128 posted:You can get fan grills if you’re worried about the cables touching them. Ah, that's a good idea. I even have some fan grills lying around too, but they're sized for 120mm. I wonder if the twisty screws I used here might not be long enough to use with the ones I order, though.
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Oct 3, 2021 18:07
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Collateral Damage posted:With the tubes curving down like that you might want to put the case face-down for a bit while running the pump to force any air trapped inside the CPU block out into the tubes, then raise it so it gathers in the rad instead, but once the air is there it's not going to find its way back into the pump. I'd been hearing a sort of ticking noise since earlier today so I tried this. No change. A bit of troubleshooting revealed that the sound was actually coming from the GPU on the other side of the case lol (apparently the fans on certain EVGA models aren't supposed to run below 25 percent?  )
Cross-Section fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Oct 3, 2021 |
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Oct 3, 2021 23:27
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As a Meshlicious owner with a 280mm AIO installed I've actually been a bit disappointed with the end result But at the same time the CPU's a 5900x and my room's ambient temp already hovers around 29C anyway 
Cross-Section fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Nov 2, 2021 |
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Nov 2, 2021 22:58
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Butterfly Valley posted:have you tried not living in a furnace Sorry, I live in the desert with an old who thinks the thermostat being set any lower than 81-82F is a mortal sin 
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Nov 3, 2021 00:59
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Cygni posted:Zen3 is a different animal than pretty much every other desktop CPU (i guess until tomorrow!). With a 280 AIO, you will still see pretty high peak temps, especially if you have PBO/Auto OC on. I def do with a 5950X. It really doesn't matter how much radiator or pumpspeed you throw at it, youll still see like 80c+ peaks with PBO and 70c+ stock. The thermal density on the compute dies, plus the inefficiencies of heat transfer from silicon -> indium solder -> gold foil -> nickle plated copper heatspreader -> thermal paste -> nickle plated copper cold plate -> water limit the abilities to pull heat away fast enough. A lot of the time it can be more informative to look at the coolant temps to get an idea of whether things are working ok. I've actually managed to find a decent heat/noise compromise by power limiting both my CPU and 3080 Ti GPU (undervolting improved performance but didn't seem to cut temps by nearly as much as I thought it would). Still get 90-100+ FPS in modern games at 3840x1600 and my room doesn't feel like the inside of a jet turbine.  Ok Comboomer posted:do you guys look like McPoyles when you emerge from your sauna for food and to run errands, etc? i take offense with this comment for one, it is a dry heat, not a wet hea
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Nov 3, 2021 14:24
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Ok Comboomer posted:properly operating saunas are dry heat, not wet heat lmao I've never actually been inside an actual sauna
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Nov 3, 2021 14:46
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Undervolting a 3080 Ti is something I've found to be somewhat tricky to find the sweet spot for. I think the best clock speed to target is somewhere around 1900 MHz. This gives pretty close to stock performance, maybe slightly worse, but you can drop voltages by a lot at that clock speed (I'm doing 830-something mV iirc, not at my pc to verify). I would try to dial in an undervolt at around 1850 to 1900 MHz before going further with power limiting, as that is essentially a much less power-efficient form of underclocking. I just tried a 850mv at 1850 undervolt and I was still hitting a loud 79-80C in Outer Worlds where my 75% power limit had it basically lock at a much quieter 70-73C. About 15 to 20 less FPS admittedly, but at 100+ that doesn't really mean much in non-multi games. Quite a bit of coil whine too, though I'm not sure if it was coming from the PSU or the card itself.
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Nov 3, 2021 15:27
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Try combining the two. Do an undervolt and then a power limit. Or alternatively, undervolt and limit your fps in the nvidia control panel. When you power limit, you're reducing current at a given voltage, so you should make sure you're doing so at the most efficient voltages you can. That should help with coil whine too if it's coming from the card. Trying the same undervolt at 80% power gets me.... about 5-10 FPS higher in-game? It's honestly a bit hard to tell, but it's definitely quieter now. Hotter too, but that's the slightly-higher power cap at work.
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Nov 4, 2021 00:48
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Is it still 500 dollars like the last time it was up
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Nov 15, 2021 22:01
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TufZxo8f3SI Lol why did they move the power button to the back of the case
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Aug 31, 2022 05:34
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Can't wait for Linus to lose a finger testing one
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Jun 20, 2023 17:57
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I used a Fuma 2 to cool a 5900x in a NR200 case for 2 years with no issues
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Feb 14, 2024 16:22
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