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I'm finally putting together my RVZ01 since I have a Vive coming on Monday. Swapping the guts of my desktop into it, with a Gigabyte GA-Z97N-WIFI and a blower 780 Ti I have on-hand, and buying a Silverstone 500W SFX-L PSU. I have some low-profile SATA cables on the way, do I need the Silverstone PSU cable kit with the short cables or are the stock Silverstone cables going to be short enough? A custom loop is out of the question for the moment, should I go with a small AIO like the H75 or H60 or just stick with something like the NT06-PRO air cooler?
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# ¿ May 19, 2016 20:31 |
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 11:55 |
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VulgarandStupid posted:Unfortunately, cable management in small mITX cases is never going to be pretty as they forego cable management spaces for less overall volume. However, I have the same power supply and the RVZ02, it's a little rough on the PSU/Mobo side but not horrible, with the larger RVZ01 it should be fine. You won't be tucking much behind anything, but you shouldn't be struggling to put the panels back on. I think those AIOs need the fan replaced with a slim fan so the prices start to add up, but I don't know what processor you're going to be using. 4690K, ideally I'd put some OC on it but I'm open to not OCing if the thermals won't handle it. No idea whether an air cooler or a slim AIO is going to get me farther. The H75 is supposedly slimmer, it has pivots for the tubing, andit might be more flexible than the default stuff. I've heard the Seidon 120M works, but that's not easily available new. And one guy said that he tried both, and he ended up doing the NT06-Pro since both were pretty cramped. On the other hand it sounds like most people put the AIO on intake for some reason, which sounds stupid. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 20:50 on May 19, 2016 |
# ¿ May 19, 2016 20:46 |
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I would like to get parts on order real soon, so any suggestions (and air configurations) on low profile air vs slim AIO in a RVZ01 would be highly appreciated.
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# ¿ May 20, 2016 03:34 |
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Granite Octopus posted:My plans are to put Fedora on it, plug in a big external disk and use it as my downloading/TV show storing box. I know I could get a NAS for not a great deal more, but I really don't need the redundancy and I like that this should have significantly more horsepower. I also don't need the speed and I have a bunch of external drives lying around so the storage part is practically free. You should have gone with an Avoton mobo/processor, ECC is important for servers. You can still hit the mITX formfactor - the C2550 has a low enough TDP to run passively, the C2750 needs a small fan if you are running at high load. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASRock-C255...7AAAMXQVERSsgUU (by the way this is one of those mITX mobos with 4 sockets for memory) http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Box-M350-Universal-Mini-ITX-Computer/dp/B005TX3LA4 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005TWE5E6/ Or, if you're being cheap as hell, an Athlon 5350 combo with an Asus AM1M-A can currently be had for like $40 at MicroCenter. That specific motherboard also supports ECC RAM - AM1 processors do support ECC RAM internally but most AM1 motherboards don't support it. It's 25W TDP so you can also run that on a passive cooler or a small fan, dalthough there may be space problems with a larger passive cooler in that case. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 22:31 on May 22, 2016 |
# ¿ May 22, 2016 22:25 |
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Watermelon Daiquiri posted:Are those avotons grunty enough for plex 1080p transcoding? Plex doesn't really need ECC, you're not persisting the data so errors don't really matter. You can generally get a more powerful machine for the money if you don't need ECC, but I do advocate for it on machines that are handling data that will be persisted (NAS/fileservers, SABNZBD/torrent machines, etc). With something like the 5350 it doesn't really cost anything extra. I'm not familiar with the requirements of Plex so I can't answer that directly, but here's some benchmarks of the 5350 and the C2750 that you might be able to interpret: http://www.anandtech.com/show/7933/the-desktop-kabini-review-part-1-athlon-5350-am1/3 Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 23:00 on May 22, 2016 |
# ¿ May 22, 2016 22:52 |
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Watermelon Daiquiri posted:Another thread pointed out that Cyrorig is getting into the business of making cases, and they are teasing some interesting looking mini-itx cases here. That taku looks cool and I may end up getting it, and if you wanted a trash can but didn't want to pay apple, nows your chance! I agree with you and one of the comments, that Taku would be great as a TV/living room PC. Got my SX500-LG and H75 here today. Took the RVZ01 apart and mounted the PSU in the bracket. The next step is to mount the CPU and the cooler, and I'm going to need to tear my current desktop apart to get my CPU, so that's a job for tomorrow. Going to put my current 4690K in the RVZ01 and put a 5820K back in my desktop. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 04:27 on May 25, 2016 |
# ¿ May 25, 2016 04:15 |
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Make up your mind quickly because I think it's going to sell out on day 1. Already halfway gone.
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# ¿ May 29, 2016 20:01 |
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RVZ01 / 4690K (stock clocks) / H75 / SX500-LG / Reference 780 Ti I wired my H75's pump drive off a Molex plug so the pump is always on full, with the H75 fan on the CPU fan header and the two GPU case fans on the case fan header, and it actually works pretty well. I am doing x264 encodes on it and I'm getting CPU package temps about 49-51C. It was doing Vive play this weekend with no problem, apart from turning the non-airconditioned cabin into a blast furnace in the 80-90* F heat. e: PSU fan finally kicked on after encoding for a half hour. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Jun 3, 2016 |
# ¿ Jun 3, 2016 03:04 |
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You can get 2-port mini-PCI SATA cards. That leaves your PCIe bay clear. No comment on whether it fits in that case. http://www.amazon.com/Syba-Port-SATA-Components-SD-MPE40056/dp/B009WN7QTE Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Jun 7, 2016 |
# ¿ Jun 7, 2016 20:01 |
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Pretty much covers it IMO. I wasn't aware of the HDPlex but that's cool, so thanks for sharing there. Any practical information on how to use laptop batteries as a portable power supply? Is there a controller for it or something? I actually ran into another company a while back that specializes in doing that stuff for computers onboard ships. It's prohibitively expensive for hobby use, however.
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# ¿ Jun 9, 2016 22:35 |
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SwissArmyDruid posted:Alright. I've deadlocked with myself on the Dancase A4. $300 and December is too much and too long for a case.
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# ¿ Jun 19, 2016 07:43 |
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SwissArmyDruid posted:In a nutshell, this is pretty much what the other side in my head has been saying. I feel you though, I went through the same thing. It's a super great case, bet it'll get picked up again (or ripped off) at some point.
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# ¿ Jun 19, 2016 08:40 |
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twxabfn posted:Thanks, but I'm not interested in going that high, either in power consumption (980ti) or price (1080). Was just wondering which style of cooler works better in the RVZ01 as I saw a couple posts here and there saying that blower-style would work better, but further reading suggests that open-air is actually preferable, as less heat from the GPU gets transferred to the SSD that way. I'm curious as to the answer but I can say that my reference 780 Ti works fine in my RVZ01, and that's about as hot a card as you can get. I have the SX500-LG and it's very quiet under load (Vive gaming). Either way go push-inwards on the GPU fans, and if you have clearance go push-inwards on the CPU fan too. That way you get positive pressure and the hot air gets forced out the louvers. Most of the open coolers work by forcing air downwards over the fins of the heatsink, so by pushing inwards you are helping the cooler fan instead of fighting it. I ended up running a H75 AIO, pushing inwards. It's really loving tight and I had to jam down an uncomfortable amount to get the case closed. However, under full/prolonged load (Handbrake encoding) it hits 52C.
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# ¿ Jun 29, 2016 01:11 |
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MixMasterMalaria posted:http://slickdeals.net/f/8897435-cyberpower-syber-vapor-xtreme-small-form-factor-gaming-pc-i7-6700-gtx-1070-8gb-1210-free-shipping Fair warning, USB 3.0/SuperSpeed is technically also USB 3.1 (Gen 1), lots of motherboard companies just slap a USB 3.1 label on a USB 3.0 motherboard and call it a day. Make sure you're getting a USB 3.1 Gen 2 (aka SuperSpeed+ or 10gbps) or Type-C if you're paying for an upgrade. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Jul 5, 2016 |
# ¿ Jul 5, 2016 20:52 |
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Also, if you ever need to repaste a GPU cooler you need to do it with non-conductive paste. There's just no good reason to pick up Arctic Silver 5 anymore - get either Gelid GC Extreme or Noctua NT-H1. The Gelid stuff is just a little better than the NT-H1 nowadays but we're talking a matter of a degree or so.
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# ¿ Sep 1, 2016 03:19 |
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It's kind of a terrible idea in most mITX cases but you can also get mATX/mITX X99 boards, and that's another viable choice for performance.
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# ¿ Sep 7, 2016 02:36 |
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VulgarandStupid posted:You'd think with 3 and 4 way SLI being discontinued at least as far as NVIDIA goes, and nothing worthwhile Crossfiring, mATX would start becoming more popular. However, we all know that the computer industry hates change, so we likely won't. mATX still involves jamming 2-slot cards as close to each other as possible and if you have a reasonable case volume for lots of radiator mounts/etc it really isn't that much smaller than ATX.
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# ¿ Nov 5, 2016 05:08 |
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A Proper Uppercut posted:What's the smallest case that isn't garbage if I have a mini itx mobo, full size psu, and a full size video card (760)? Looking to adapt an old pc to an htpc type thing. Maybe RVZ01E?
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# ¿ Nov 25, 2016 00:50 |
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mITX design is practically Raven's specialty. I'd give it a try.
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# ¿ Dec 2, 2016 02:42 |
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I was thinking about doing an 8-bay NAS build in the U-NAS NSC-810 case. I don't need a ton of power, a HDD only takes about 4W each (32W total), plus an i3/Pentium (54W), plus at least another 50W for future expansion. So something like 160W capacity would be plenty, and 200-300W would be more than enough. I would like to have at least one free Molex for the future expansion, and ideally at least a GPU 6-pin as well if not a 6+2. I was wondering about DC-DC PSUs for this. Is this something I could reasonably accomplish with a 160W PicoPSU or one of those 300W HDPlex units? I would like to avoid a horrific daisy-chain of Y-adapters that will burn my house down (the spec is apparently like 50W per SATA connector max, so with some extra resistance for 4 sets of connectors every HDD is going through, that kinda makes me uncomfortable). Is there someplace I could maybe have a custom 8-plug string made up with some nice wire? (this would make me feel more comfortable). What do I do about the hole in the back of the case? Is there like, a small fan I could mount there or something? Or a cover plate? Because just having a hole in the back seems like it would look weird, although I guess it's not hurting anything. Or, SeaSonic makes a 1U flex PSU with a gold rating. I can't find a review but I kinda feel like that might be loud. I don't know whether it has the right cables but I guess I could buy extras or get them made either way. Should I just suck it up and deal with the flex PSU? Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 02:05 on May 10, 2017 |
# ¿ May 10, 2017 02:02 |
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Zero VGS posted:The case you describe supports Flex-ATX, like this gold-rated PSU: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9PV4W69385 Well, no noise and no vibrations too. HDDs don't like vibrations and if I can get rid of some that might be worth it all on its own. I'm also worried about the noise too, though, since these smaller PSUs have tiny fans which can be high pitched and fast-spinning. Right now my server is in my living room, and I want this to be something I can take up north with me for movies and stuff, so noisy server-grade PSUs are not high on my list. I'm not worried about another $50 in overall cost, as long as this isn't a ghetto-looking piece of poo poo. Which is why I was wondering about what I do about mounting it inside the case and so on. I just want this to be durable and reliable so that it doesn't poo poo out on me and cause file corruption. This is the flex PSU I was looking at. Seasonic has a good reputation, but these are niche products and I can't find many reviews :\ Is FSP a decent brand/is that a good model? quote:As long as the 8 HDD you have draws less amps than the full load current listed on that page it should work. I think typical wiring is thick enough that added resistance from a longer cable is negligible, but if you're that worried you could get some molex crimps/sockets and make a single 8 HDD chain, then use common molex-sata adapters (Amazon sells cheap multipacks) for the final run to each HDD. My adblocker must have been screwing up the site because I missed the package contents being there. I still have one electrical question you could help with. OK here's the shot of the board from the product page Working counterclockwise we have: input, 4+4pin CPU power, 24-pin ATX, "special" output, and 6+2 pin GPU output. For the "special" output can you trace wires and tell me where they go on the Molex? Starting from the locking tab and going clockwise we have:
(with the key "arrows" pointing away from the locking tab - which appears to be the same connector as the 4-pin CPU power but I'm assuming has one of the pins replaced with 5V?) And then here's the molex diagram - can you trace wires and tell me where wires 1-4 from the CPU connector end up, using this diagram with the Molex key facing upward? That should be enough to make a string that can handle the current. I'm not worried about the wires or whatever - I'm worried about building a "christmas tree" of Y-connectors that end up adding a bunch of resistance and heating the connectors up. One string with 8 taps coming off it would be fine and would be nice and neat inside, and it looks doable. OK, let's assume for a moment that I just stickytape or screw the DC-DC unit to the top of the case or something. What do I do about the gaping hole in back? Do I just get some sheet metal and make a cover plate, then drill some holes to mount the receptable onto? Or is there a standardized fix for this of some kind that doesn't involve fabricating it myself? Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 00:54 on May 16, 2017 |
# ¿ May 16, 2017 00:43 |
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necrobobsledder posted:I have a U-NAS NSC-800 with a really quiet 1U or very close size PSU (I don't think it's TFX) and I have more overheating issues with the CPU and motherboard than anything else due to the lack of space in the compartment. There's 2 molex connectors that match with the 8 drive bays' power connectors along with SFF connectors. Oh poo poo this is the real answer right here isn't it. Someone already thought of that and there's a molex to power the drive bays. Does it have an onboard SATA/SAS controller too perchance? Thanks necro. How do you like it? Any cautionary notes? I'm looking at doing NSC-810 (micro-ATX format) build with an Asus P10S-M WS with a G4560 or an i3-7100 and ECC, slapping on a M.2 PCIe drive for boot and ZFS L2 cache, and maybe an infiniband card in one of the PCIe slots if I get frisky. Maybe I'll do local postgres poo poo on it too. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 05:11 on May 16, 2017 |
# ¿ May 16, 2017 04:29 |
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eames posted:I thought so too, so I checked eBay: It'll be months before you get your Kickstarter item, people will pay a premium for a copy that's ready to go right now.
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# ¿ May 28, 2017 23:16 |
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Bag of Sun Chips posted:Welp, artificial scarcity has convinced me to spend money, once again - I preordered the Dancase A4 on Kickstarter. I figure if I don't end up using it, I can always easily get my money back by selling it. Yeah, I'm in too for a case at least. I still don't know about the window kit. I think it's going to gently caress with thermals pretty bad. I can't really decide between the black or the silver, is one more scratch-proof than the other? Heads-up to anyone sitting on the fence, they've sold almost all of their regular kits in 16 days (58 left of 1300), at their average rate of 77 per day they will be out within a day. It's now or never. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Jun 13, 2017 |
# ¿ Jun 13, 2017 01:59 |
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SourKraut posted:What's the general view of the quality of the riser cables Silverstone uses in the Raven cases? My RVZ01 uses a 90-degree PCB-type adapter. It's fine.
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# ¿ Jul 10, 2017 05:32 |
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horchata posted:Has anyone here ever ordered from superbiiz? They seem to be the only one that has the AsRock Ryzen ITX board in stock at the moment but the 90s style website is very offputting. They're legit. Yes, it's a weird site.
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# ¿ Jul 12, 2017 02:03 |
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Consider the following: 5775C mITX build (Iris Pro 6200)in a case too small for dGPU for any mITX systems, vs Skull Canyon NUC (Iris Pro 580). Or any other heavy-hitting small-enclosure builds (ie less than RVZ02 dimensions). (in a case too small for dGPU - potentially with Thunderbolt to a eGPU enclosure) Sadly neither are Kaby Lake and thus neither can do Netflix's new DRM. I guess I could also do a Kaby Lake K-series in a tight case and an external GPU. It's more flexible in terms of form factor/positioning but less performant than a single-case build. gently caress, I chickened out of the DAN kickstarter and now I'm regretting it. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Jul 13, 2017 |
# ¿ Jul 13, 2017 03:07 |
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MaxxBot posted:Why not mini-STX? You know what there is though... thin ITX. You can do some cute builds in this factor, it'd just be a matter of ensuring sufficient cooling. Do any of those specialty whole-body passive case people have something for this? Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Jul 13, 2017 |
# ¿ Jul 13, 2017 03:44 |
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And now I'm looking at HDPLEX passive case builds How about this, a H5 (95W) with a 7700K or 6800K or a 1700 mITX/mATX board, and on the GPU bracket (hopefully this is also another 95W since it heatpipes to the opposite side? ) I can throw my 1080 in there and drop it to like -50% power limit I can still get the 6800K at not-insane prices, thanks Microcenter. Then I just need some Asrock black magic Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Jul 13, 2017 |
# ¿ Jul 13, 2017 04:29 |
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Fruit Chewy posted:A passive build with a 6800k and a 1080? You absolute madman. My 5820K pulls 90W during Handbrake, at 4.13 GHz all-core. The H5 has a 95W envelope. With an underclock like that It'll perform like a 1070 but it'll run like a 1060
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# ¿ Jul 13, 2017 04:48 |
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Ran a test using Witcher 3 in Novigrad and I'm actually satisfied with the 1440p framerate (ultra except for hairworks ultra, 4x, geralt only) at -50% power on the 1080 (90W). Ran at (edit: 30-40% auto fan) on my FE with dried-out paste, and it didn't dip below 57 fps or break over 65C (temps were coming down to 60C at the end). GPU-z Thing will upload+process in 1440p60 eventually. edit: however that case is not compatible with 2011-3 so it's either Kaby or Ryzen I guess. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 08:01 on Jul 13, 2017 |
# ¿ Jul 13, 2017 05:17 |
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theperminator posted:I love that they have options for Linear power supplies. That is absolutely insane and would add a lot of heat & wasted energy. I know, right, hundreds of watts of useless heat dumped out just because, definitely what I want to be passively cooled (it probably makes sense in configurations where you want a really clean switching-noise-free supply for your amp but also want to power a PC from the same supply, and you want everything to be silent) Last night I discovered the Akasa Galactico for the Skull Canyon NUCs and while it's a little on the wide side I'm actually seriously interested. The Skull Canyon NUC is the smallest PC you can get with Thunderbolt and decent graphics, and that would take it full passive My fiance and I both really like the styling (her: "looks like something from BSG" me: "no that's obviously a TIE bomber ") so the size may be worth putting up with... Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Jul 14, 2017 |
# ¿ Jul 14, 2017 17:56 |
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There is always the option of buying a bigger GPU and setting a power limit to underclock it - this will improve your efficiency at a given level of performance. Taking a 1080 and setting a 60% limit gets you like 1070 performance at 1060 power consumption. (obviously there is nothing faster than a 1080 Ti, unless you want to buy a Titan Xp) Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 08:59 on Oct 29, 2017 |
# ¿ Oct 29, 2017 05:50 |
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A while back I asked about smaller ATX cases with less wasted space, either here or in the parts-picking thread. This is pretty much what I was thinking about. Full EATX in the same footprint as most mATX cases, just a bit bigger than a Node 202 (little thicker, little deeper): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSuyXdI3RPE https://smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/smallest-atx-case-cerberus-x-complete-build-log.2007/ I think this is their retailer but the site's down, base price is $250: http://www.sliger.com/products/cases/kic10x/ Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Mar 9, 2018 |
# ¿ Mar 9, 2018 23:24 |
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I mean, it's probably 15 minutes or less for them to do a single CPU. So unless they let themselves get worked into a backlog, that's not surprising.
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# ¿ Apr 5, 2018 01:56 |
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I'd like to take a PicoPSU (or similar) and mount the 12v jack to an ATX or flex-atx bulkhead so that I don't have a gaping hole in the back of the machine, is there a nice way to do that?
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# ¿ Apr 22, 2021 07:07 |
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Shrimp or Shrimps posted:Wouldn't display port still need to go into the GPU? Or can that pass through over Thunderbolt and still keep high refresh / g-sync? E: Yeah, and still having to put the thing on its side to get power in. Definitely more of a live on the desk type of case, which is completely fair because that's what cases are designed to do. there are some laptops that ~supposedly~ support Adaptive Sync and HDMI VRR over thunderbolt 4 but I've never actually heard of anyone trying it. https://videocardz.com/press-release/xmg-core-14-and-schenker-media-14-feature-intel-tiger-lake-cpu-and-geforce-gtx-1650-max-p-graphics I'm not entirely clear on what the criteria would be there for that to work properly. Thunderbolt 4? Tiger Lake/Xe 2nd gen? Or is it technically possible on earlier hardware but they just don't implement it / don't meet some nitpicky criteria? Typically these things are often very sensitive to the exact configuration of the thunderbolt and iGPU and dGPU so it is very possible that other laptops with identical hardware might not support it. traditionally you would have had to do thunderbolt to an eGPU enclosure with USB (or an eGPU enclosure that supports Thunderbolt daisychain, you could use the thunderbolt downlink as a Type-C port for a hub/etc), or a thunderbolt dock with a eGPU daisychained to it, and you plug the monitor into the eGPU, which will work 100% of the time regardless of CPU/mobo, but of course limits you to the 4 PCIe lanes. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 05:26 on May 4, 2021 |
# ¿ May 4, 2021 05:04 |
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is there anything similar to DAN SFX-A4 but built to handle oversized graphics cards like 3080/3090?
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# ¿ May 15, 2021 04:04 |
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CaptainPsyko posted:If you mean Sandwich layout, yeah, there are a few options that move a notch up in size from the A4; the FormD T1, Winter One, and a bunch of Sliger's offerings should fit the bill depending how big you want to go. Just be aware that the 3080/90 FE cooler design isn't a great match for the layout. (Most other cooler designs are fine though). I assume 3090 also doesn't do too well since there's probably no airflow over the backplate/VRAM chips?
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# ¿ May 15, 2021 05:01 |
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 11:55 |
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I'm not talking about FE cards here, just a conventional axial cooler
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# ¿ May 15, 2021 08:36 |