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Spades posted:Have you found the race pads are usable on the street still? I don't mind some softness as I don't dadbrake on the road but if they barely work at all until they're heated it'd be a bit of a pain (Missing those carbon ceramics again). Most aggressive I've personally tried is HP+ on the street, and I hated them. They were loud and dusted a shitload, though they would stop you fine even if they were cold. If I were to do it again, I wouldn't even consider compromise street/track pads. I'd buy a 2nd set of pads/rotors and swap them for track driving and swap back to street stuff and drive home.
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Oct 5, 2016 19:48
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I drove everywhere with Endless ME20s. Not loud and bite is good enough for street. A little dusty on track days, but what isn't?
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Oct 5, 2016 22:31
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Octopus Magic posted:A little dusty on track days, but what isn't? Well, in my case, I have the following problems with brake dust on my wheels: Also, I finally sourced the most critical maintenance part for the Type R and got them installed this weekend.  (ITR door cards with red inserts instead of the black ones my car came with) The shock absorber place which assured me that they'd have shock absorbers in place turned out to not actually have any stock for any DC5 models at all and never had, so having been screwed around long enough I just got a new set from the dealership. The OEM rear shocks are coming over(fort)night from Japan and should be here sometime next Friday by the looks, which leaves the car stranded on my driveway while warrant of fitness is un-doable.
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Oct 9, 2016 03:47
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 DO change your shock absorbers  Looking better now. Also I retrieved my Z06 Semislicks.  they're pretty big. Spades fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Oct 29, 2016 |
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Oct 29, 2016 04:15
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 it is important to remember your priorities when spending money
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Nov 1, 2016 06:29
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Some news, since it's been a while and I've been underwater with getting all my consulting business deals nailed down for next year - Going to use the next couple of days/weeks to ideally take the Silvia's many shortcomings to task. My plans in no particular order at this stage are to: upgrade the brakes, convert to 5 stud hubs, repaint the exterior and achieve at least a presentable result, replace the wheels with literally anything else other than the wheels, move the battery to the boot, use stretchable plastic repair to fix the holes in the vinyl, cut and fit a bodge job carpet, re-install the rear spoiler (and eventually replace it with the one decent spoiler that an S14 can fit - the 2nd gen stock turbo one), do something about the buggered front seats, fit custom finger linings on the doors, and, if I can find a reasonable T56/LS1 combo, put an uh, T56/LS1 combo in to replace the 3 speed auto / SR20DE with something that won't always be hilariously terrible The list of fixes is bouyed somewhat by the way the car's such a cheap heap to begin with that it doesn't bother me too much if I screw something up. Yay? --- First step has been to some non-poo poo hubs and brakes so the thing can actually stop and doesn't have the most heinous looking wheels in the world anymore:  This is an R33 Skyline brake conversion kit, where the upgraded brakes have been threaded onto stock Turbo Silvia hubs, carriers and A-Arms so it should attach easily enough. Going to have to see what I need to do to adapt the handbrake cables in the Skyline's drum brakes to the hand brake tensioner but hopefully it is not literally impossible. Since the car won't get very far if I drive it around on the bared brake discs, I also got sourced some filthy old 5-stud S15 wheels and attacked them with metal polish today. Result acceptable, but I may yet still paint them black to fit with my newfound hatred of exterior metal finish.  Sidenote: Stock Nissan wheels are ungodly god-drat heavy. Like the rear wheels of my Z06 weigh half as much as one of these 16 inch 'alloys'. Alloyed with lead and neutronium apparently. Apologies to anyone who has experienced tsunamis in the wake of my moving the drat things 300km and upsetting the earth's magnetic poles. --- Also got a collection of body repair, interior repair and general repair stuff to fix up the ruined interior and ruined exterior. While it's a bit much for me to fully dissasemble the car during my 3 week break in order to paint it, I'm going to at least do a very thorough hackjob of painting it up with boat paint.  Here is an actual boat, with the actual boat paint. It's red. Spades fucked around with this message at 10:21 on Dec 16, 2016 |
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Dec 16, 2016 06:51
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Can I just say that I like your thread? Keep posting.
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Dec 16, 2016 08:12
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Wanna know more about dat boat. Looks like a good boat!
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Dec 16, 2016 08:42
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Wanna know more about dat boat. Looks like a good boat! Afraid I can't say much more for that one, it's just the first boatly result for when I search for Rochelle Red. On the other hand, here's one my dad built: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y4RCEB_3Zvg -550 cubic inches, 7500 rpm FE side-oiler -fuel pump from f4u corsair -starvation issues due to holley 1250 NASCAR carb not being able to feed enough -straight pipes? no, straight headers -850hp at the crank on regular unleaded -I'M MILES HIGH AND BULLETPROOF  While I'm here I might as well dump a few of his other projects: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPuZUmC0-o8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-29Lpt2feWc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9VLHMIYrWo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khJzzFA_aBk Dad's world is fire. And blood. (loving chinese ratchet handles) Spades fucked around with this message at 10:28 on Dec 16, 2016 |
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Dec 16, 2016 10:17
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Wait... FE? Like ford edsel FE? Because god damned, your dad is loving insane. I mean, 850hp in a boat is its own special brand of insane, but doing it with a 60 year old motor design that has nowhere near the aftermarket support of a standard windsor or cleveland sbf is turning up to 11.
Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 10:45 on Dec 16, 2016 |
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Dec 16, 2016 10:40
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Wait... FE? Like ford edsel FE? Because god damned, your dad is loving insane. I mean, 850hp in a boat is its own special brand of insane, but doing it with a 60 year old motor design that has nowhere near the aftermarket support of a standard bbf is turning up to 11. A Galaxie 427 FE - Dad built a drag racing car / daily driver / boat tower after transplanting one of those into his Fairlane at the time. Unfortunately it had a habit of spitting out 9 Inch diffs like they were made of cheese due to the torque - so he put it in a boat, where it can't show its contempt any longer for the common or garden driveline. An entertaining car to be sure though - apparently running through 30 sets of tires, seven driveshifts, four diffs and a transmission in one year at one point.
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Dec 16, 2016 10:48
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Holy poo poo that is metal as gently caress. 
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Dec 16, 2016 17:43
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Wait... FE? Like ford edsel FE? Because god damned, your dad is loving insane. I mean, 850hp in a boat is its own special brand of insane, but doing it with a 60 year old motor design that has nowhere near the aftermarket support of a standard windsor or cleveland sbf is turning up to 11.  Edsel used the MEL block used in late 50's/early 60's Edsels, Thunderbirds, and Lincolns and is a really interesting design, ranges from 383CI to 462CI, rare, and very difficult to find parts for. The FE block was used in loads of applications throughout the 60's and 70's ranging from 332CI to 428CI (most common was the 390), is pretty common, relatively easy to find parts for, etc.
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Dec 16, 2016 18:28
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For inspiration for the Silvia I went to a car show today NEVER go to a car show like goddamn car show people are the pubbies of the car world
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Dec 17, 2016 01:17
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Jackie the Mick posted:
They also used the 360ci FE in the edsel pacer. It is not easy to track down parts on. At least not when the catalogs aren't cooperative. I just have to get creative with where I get my part numbers. Or maybe I just need to stop loving taking customers with edsels. 
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Dec 17, 2016 05:14
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Spades posted:Dad's world is fire. And blood. Please buy your dad an account. Please. Jackie the Mick posted:
Yeah, but the "FE" name for the venerable BBF does indeed stand for "Ford/Edsel". Cop Porn Popper posted:It is not easy to track down parts on. I'm surprised. It was the big block of choice for the Mustang, T-bird, Galaxie; pretty much anything cool in the 60s that came from big blue would have had the FE as its top option. Also, I reiterate: I wish the counter monkeys in my neck of the woods gave half as much of a poo poo as you. Only the old farts at one particular Napa know anything about anything.
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Dec 17, 2016 05:39
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Yeah, for some reson the 360 in this edsel seems to be an oddball. Lady who owns it also had a 59 fairlane with pretty much the same 360 in it. The edsel still had the factory fuel pump on it, glass sediment bowl and all. All that was really shot was the diaphragm, so I found a new pump she would be able to transfer the bottom of the old pump over to if she wanted to keep it on. BECAUSE LOOK AT THAT BADASS loving THING, HOW COULD YOU NOT WANT TO KEEP THAT?
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Dec 17, 2016 05:57
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Raluek posted:Please buy your dad an account. Please. The FE has tons of support; the MEL is rare. They had that dumb canted deck thing like Chevy 348/409 where the pistons formed the shape of the combustion chamber instead of the cylinder heads, which were pretty much flat.
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Dec 17, 2016 06:01
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wallaka posted:The FE has tons of support; the MEL is rare. They had that dumb canted deck thing like Chevy 348/409 where the pistons formed the shape of the combustion chamber instead of the cylinder heads, which were pretty much flat. Oh, I must have misread. I thought Cop Porn was saying that he was having trouble finding parts for an FE. The MEL, I agree, has very little aftermarket and is probably pretty hard to make power with. I know how that is; I have a Y-block, haha.
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Dec 17, 2016 06:17
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Raluek posted:Please buy your dad an account. Please. Did I mention the time that during the 1970s fuel rationing, he invented an outboard coal fume gassifier system solely so that he could do burnouts outside of the police station on the days the police weren't allowed to drive?
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Dec 17, 2016 06:33
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Spades posted:Did I mention the time that during the 1970s fuel rationing, he invented an outboard coal fume gassifier system solely so that he could do burnouts outside of the police station on the days the police weren't allowed to drive? Holy poo poo, wanna meet that dad 
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Dec 17, 2016 06:41
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9 days into it and the progress is sorta getting there on the Silvia. Naturally this process is taking longer than otherwise because the previous owner was a loving retard like poo poo, everything in this car is broken or damaged in some way due to owner retardation A list of damage: -LED strip went out on the spoiler, so instead of fixing it, they cut off the connector and hardwired an aftermarket brake light to the circuit and then took the spoiler off and put tape over the holes instead of filling those -Random AC cabling attached to stereo and left to flap around inside the car -'75% Tint' added to interior lights, making them useless without ripping it off -Stupid loving sun shield added by stretching electrician's tape across the top of the windshield -Radio surround broken by being ripped out without removing the AC controller first -Transmission surround broken by being ripped out from the wrong end -Center console broken by monkeying too hard on the armrest -Both door cards broken by slamming doors too hard, causing hairline fractures all up the door card -Door handles broken by ripping them out without removing the screws holding them to the door -AC vent shround broken in passenger's side door -AC vertical vent adjustment vane broken in passenger's side door -Missing bolts and screws everywhere -Front bumper splitter rubbed away completely in places and cracked (despite having about 8 inches of clearance under the bumper) -Driver's side mirror internal boom elbow broken -Glovebox broken by apparently ripping the handle off -Rear seats have cigarette burn -Front driver's seat torn in two places, missing foam (how the gently caress does this even happen? do these people wear knife pants?) -Front passenger seat missing adjuster bar cap -Speakers may or may not be wired retarded -Aftermarket reversing beepers were duct taped to the rear bumper and the cabling was resting on the exhaust pipe -Automatic radio antenna is broken -Numberplate screw threads stripped -Fusebox kickplate kicked until broken -Carpet rubbed so raw that it went through the rubber backing material and exposed to the base metal -Incredibly expensive ADVAN V2 Super wheels painted in $3 enamel paint; center caps attemped to be removed by hammer from some fucktard But the sunroof works! Some of these fuckups are offensive to me as a mechanically inclined person because they outline the outright fuckheadedness of the owner in question, none moreso than the issue with the ADVANs. These things go for about $2000-3000 a set - more than the loving car sold for - and yet they'll need refurbishing before they can be used for anything now because the loving retarded oval office tried to remove the (incredibly engineered, beautifully machined, seize-proof, o-ring sealed) center caps with a loving HAMMER. These wheels might be ugly as hell but they're some of the best made wheels on the market and now they'll require, at minimum, extensive paint stripping followed by a recoat in epoxy and then repainting. All because some rear end in a top hat couldn't be bothered to borrow a plumber's wrench and then tried to hide their ape-like shame with terrible paint. I hate the way that these cars were seemingly built by at least mildly passionate engineers back in the heydey of Japanese sports coupes, built to be enjoyed by a then-booming demographic of enthusiast drivers, and yet this one eventually ended up in the hands of a loving stupid bogan oval office who hosed it all to hell by smashing, stomping, headbutting and otherwise doing dumb retarded poo poo to the whole car to the point that it needs weeks of work to even attempt to set it right. Spades fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Dec 29, 2016 |
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Dec 29, 2016 01:49
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i had to download gimp and it sucks and i didnt want to cut the logo out properly eat me So, a decent chunk of the refurb work is out of the way and I'll start re-assembling the car soon. Will post actual content when the urges strike me.
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Jan 1, 2017 10:43
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Most of the paintwork is done now, with the cleanup happening over the next couple of days. If anyone has not painted with epoxy enamel before, imagine the process being the opposite of painting with regular car paint - it's slow drying, extremely durable scratch-resistant paint that is extremely sanding friendly and can be applied just as nicely with a brush or roller as it can be with a gun. It also doesn't fade when not clearcoated (at least not the expensive stuff which I'm using) and actually works better without a clearcoat. However, it's very 'sloppy', and nearly impossible to lay down clean coats with - instead you kind of just throw huge wads of paint at the thing you're painting and sand back all the orange peel. This means it takes a while to get a result (and the slow drying time means it takes a full day between each coat) but reaching that result won't be catastrophically compromised if you so much as breathe on the paint after application. Another nice bonus is that you can get super brightly saturated colors like luminescent 'guitar body' reds which don't really exist anymore with traditional urethane paints; you can also repair any chips, scratches etc by just spreading on more paint, as no clearcoat means no hella complicated clearcoat removal every time the slightest colorcoat damage occurs. Anyway, we started with this:  I removed all the panels (with exception to the doors - a bit too much work to disconnect them for my laziness) and the windows (gently caress messing with those without a professional) and keyed everything down, razored off all the badges, knocked out dents and applied the new long carbon fibre filler to the remains. Here's dad confirming this looks ugly:  I would like to make a brief aside to mention the buckets of suds there. As it turns out, this car is totally loving saturated in two things. The first thing is literal poo poo. Like, endless amber waves of cow poo poo permeated every single exposed structural member of the entire car, whether it be little dusty dried out turds under the carpet or big splattering shitprints all inside the rear bumper or just caked on rear end-crust in every one of the guards. The second thing?  Fnnnnnnrrr Anyway, we masked up and applied undercoats and some color:  We also got overspray all over the engine bay because who takes masking that seriously really Anyway, the masking tape was starting to brick up due to being on the body for too long so a day or two ago we pulled all the masks off.  As mentioned, this color is hella vibrant. I am actually more taken with it than I originally thought. Anyway, if you look closely you can see the damage caused by leaving the masking tape on too long - basically, it bonded with the wet paint and caused some minor chipping around the window seals, etc. This is before sandback as well, so the final result will have more shine and less lemonpeel. JPEG compression robs a bit of the slight crimson tinge that this paint has so I might make sure to upload the post-sandback photos in PNG. Thankfully, this doesn't matter much as we just hand painted over the damage to hide it - again with the boat painting techniques basically. Spades fucked around with this message at 11:30 on Jan 1, 2017 |
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Jan 1, 2017 11:25
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Quick background on what I'm doing - since the car's mechanically sound, but completely hosed in terms of wear, I want to clean it up as much as possible before undergoing any major mechanical changes so that it can make a tolerable runabout and spare car in the interim, rather than look like some teenager's Initial D fantasy mobile. Anyway, more content - Every light fitting on the car had turned the flat, greyish UV stain color that cars of this period always end up rocking after their lovely factory UV sealings give up about five minutes into ownership, so part of my refurb is to get all of the housings looking non-gently caress-awful. This basically involves using some wetsand paper, then a few different levels of cutting compounds and finally clearcoating the headlights with a decent clear coat to give them a shiny finish and hide the tool marks from the work done on them. I had a go at this shortly after buying the car - however the clear coat wasn't decent at all, reacted with the plastic (what), turned yellow, contracted and cracked, giving the headlights a pretty cool "loving ruined" finish. So first step was to take hardarse 60 grain sandpaper to the lovely clear coat and rip it all off. Usually I'd start at nothing harder than 600, but seeing as this is a Silvia - and loving up is okay when it's not a great car in the first place - I figured I'd see how it came out. (should have taken a before photo but I didn't, oh well). After ripping up the headlights' faces, I used some 240 to cover up the tool marks and then went through 600, 1000 and 1500 before using some compounds. I went with meguiar's ultimate compound, then meguiar's scratchX and finally meguiar's polish. Before and after from wetsanding stage to compound stage:  Did all the other parts too:  I used a pretty interesting sealant made by a greek company, EN Chemicals. It's a rattlecan but it sprays a strange kind of gel rather than normal paint, which is extremely self levelling, very iridiscent in finish and has a weird drying process. Basically, it stays extremely fluid for roughly 20 minutes, and then turns solid in the space of about 5-10 seconds. By 'extremely self levelling', I mean that you can literally spray a spot of it, drag a finger through it and come back to find the spot re-formed again. Due to my own impatience I got a few runs when spraying the headlights but they levelled themselves off to the point of near invisibility anyway. Anyway, worked good:  Eventually going to use a final buff of polishing compound to get out the lemon peel you can see in the reflection of the rear light bar and a few other places: 
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Jan 1, 2017 11:54
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That red looks awesome. What brand of paint did you use? In the US, people use Rustoleum or some sort of tractor paint for roll on jobs but it looks like you sprayed it.
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Jan 1, 2017 13:33
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Larrymer posted:That red looks awesome. What brand of paint did you use? In the US, people use Rustoleum or some sort of tractor paint for roll on jobs but it looks like you sprayed it. I used International - which I think is called Interlux in the states. It's expensive as mothering gently caress (about 2-3x what Rustoleum costs, from what I can tell) but is UV proofed and holds a mirror shine when polished (can't really wax a yacht, after all). I considered going a cheaper route but with how much work there is involved in a cohesive exterior paintjob I thought that I might as well spring a bunch and not have to redo it in a years' time or so. Initially we sprayed the paint on with about ~45% thinners and a vapour gas mask (you really don't want to breathe atomized epoxy enamel) but the difference in smoothness versus using a high quality roller isn't really worth it - it was good for getting all the complicated parts of the doorjams coated though. For the rest of the body panels they've been rolled and paired down with sandpaper between coats. Also the brakes still aren't here so I'm going to make a call to see what the story is.
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Jan 1, 2017 19:24
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Had some rage quit moments last night over the dashboard fixes not having cleaned up very nicely but managed to salvage my mood today and get some more stuff done. Bought a roll of black/dark charcoal dappled outdoor carpet and spent a few hours origami-ing it into the car before trimming it out. I'll take photos later - result is actually pretty alright, sits reasonably well with a few folds and tucks to take care of tension. I am debating wether to cut and fit it for a seamless look or just leave it with the folds in; while I've heard some people stretch this stuff out, the thin backing and artificial fibres make me think that you'd want to leave it in its original state to ensure its toughness. While I'm not even considering performance yet, funny thing is that it weighs several pounds less than the extremely heavy carpet that used to be in there. With no padding or shape moulding it's less lumpy as well - closer to the 'tarp with fuzz on it' style of the Type R. Also, sound deadening in these cars is pretty much just enormous slabs of rock hard bitumen. Kinda tempted to see how loud it is without the blocks down there but there's no way this poo poo is coming off without a pneumatic impact chisel. Laid the 35mm battery relocation cable, so I can finally start re-installing most of the interior after finishing the last of the painting work. Going to paint the interior of the boot in black chassis paint as I found a few spots of rust and don't really want the old dull pink-red undercoat from the factory casually visible if I can help it. Also to idiot proof the battery job I went and vinylsprayed the positive cable red, go me, top job Sourcing an LS1 is proving interesting and the better plan may be to actually wait until a de-registered LS1 Holden V8 with a manual transmission comes up for sale and buy that instead - the price will be the same but it'll come with a few extra pieces that could be of use. I will need to urgently part out the remaining body to ensure that my dad does not drop a 565 merlin into it over a weekend, 'because it needed an engine and I had this one not being used'. Spades fucked around with this message at 11:42 on Jan 3, 2017 |
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Jan 3, 2017 11:33
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Spades posted:Also, sound deadening in these cars is pretty much just enormous slabs of rock hard bitumen. Kinda tempted to see how loud it is without the blocks down there but there's no way this poo poo is coming off without a pneumatic impact chisel. Dry ice will fix that fast. Once the dry ice has chilled the sound deadening enough, one sharp hit with a hammer and it'll all break up and come loose
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Jan 3, 2017 23:29
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I was going to post up the video BoostCreep did a couple weeks ago, but apparently he just uploaded an even shorter version just detailing the process and results: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7AAHvAdRsY
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Jan 3, 2017 23:59
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Spades posted:I will need to urgently part out the remaining body to ensure that my dad does not drop a 565 merlin into it over a weekend, 'because it needed an engine and I had this one not being used'. Sounds like you have an alternate solution to your engine sourcing problem already onhand! 
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Jan 4, 2017 07:06
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So, progress so far - did a test fit today for all the panelwork just to see what things are looking like. (more: http://imgur.com/a/Bi42T) Interior is back in but needs a vacuum:  Keeping in mind the car looked like this two weeks ago -   (more: http://imgur.com/a/MEEhT) think I'm doing okay Energy is really really drained at this point though - broke a few things along the way (araldite saved me a mental breakdown at least) and didn't really feel like I fixed as much as I wanted to. I think I'll come back to the car after I've had some time to relax properly.
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Jan 5, 2017 07:58
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Looks good. Is there any way you can find a new cloth driver's seat that matches the door cards? I always love those Japanese market cloths like the Supra Recaros.
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Jan 5, 2017 19:05
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  And we're done for now, hooray. In two weeks' time the epoxy enamel will have reached its peak curing and the car will be ready for sandback, upon where it will look about as shiny and deep as an ocean made of well cut diamonds. Driver's wing mirror is slightly cockeyed because the light and medium duty fixes didn't work, so the next step is to pretty much just bathe the whole housing in araldite so that it becomes a solid block unable to break again. The mirrors on the S14 are really badly designed - the exterior housing locates the interior motors, so basically any hard hit to the top of the mirror will snap the (toothpick thin) interior elbow between the motors and the mirror backing plate. And I need to find a new dashboard also as the current one is just plan garbo. It may be best if I actually get a fibreglass aftermarket replacement, or create some vinyl overlays and glue them on top to fake the re-upholstered look. Two weeks of work for I guess some kind of result - it's hard not to feel a lingering lack of satisfaction when doing big jobs on cars because you always tend to gently caress up small or big parts in the process and never quite get the outcome you want.  Also: always use the envelope system (note that I still was left with a mystery bolt or two. Surely these don't belong to the transmission crossmember or anything) Octopus Magic posted:Looks good. I'll likely go the other way and match the door cards to the seats I plan to put in - SR4 recaros like the DC5, but the grey/black standalone non-Integra model. So the door cards (and rear door cards, which are currently unlined) will be grey alcantara. This of course assumes I put the LS1 in since I like few things less than racing seats in a car that doesn't need them (and nearly no cars really need racing seats)
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Jan 6, 2017 06:45
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All cars need race seats.
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Jan 6, 2017 07:06
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Putting in a fixed bucket and a smaller steering wheel made a really big difference car control wise (the stock leather seats were like sitting on ice, and the stock wheel would make some autocross turns more or less impossible) for my hooptie (not my car but w/e):  If I had something like OEM Recaro seats (a la EVO/Type Rs/STi/even the Mazda RX8 upper models/etc) it probably would've been better.  I guess I just love these because they are so period piece.
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Jan 6, 2017 17:00
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Octopus Magic posted:Putting in a fixed bucket and a smaller steering wheel made a really big difference car control wise (the stock leather seats were like sitting on ice, and the stock wheel would make some autocross turns more or less impossible) for my hooptie (not my car but w/e): This is fair since you're literally using the car for competition, which makes them completely acceptable - which is something 90% of 'jdm tyte' cars fitting SR3-era Recaros never even get close to (at least partly because the aftermarket turbo overheats before they even get it to the track to begin with) Also those seats look like they need to have that generic jazz pattern on them
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Jan 6, 2017 19:55
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Bit of a retrospective work breakdown -  Old carpet smelled to wet dogs, drunk piss and horse poo poo and was so thoroughly rotted through that even the rubber backing had been worn out. Not saveable even with a bag of flock so I ripped it out and go some of that hardware store artificial fibre carpet and folded it in -  At this stage you could begin to cut the carpet where the folds exist and then glue plastic backing strips to make the joins seamless, but honestly with the seats test-fitted in place none of the folds showed enough to worry me so I went with it as it is. The stuff is tough as hell so the lack of any insulation below shouldn't cause it to die young. It also weighs next to nothing, just like the DC5 carpet.  Laying battery cable through bodywork so the carpet isn't too miserable.  Idiot proofed the far end so that ideally nobody will make any mistakes with terminals. This is as far as I'm going at the moment with the battery relocation since the requirements to relocate a battery are different between normal and dry cell batteries, and a high CCA rating will likely be neccessary to turn the LS1 over.  Dashboard, post fixes. Couldn't get textured vinyl spray in NZ so it looks ugly, then it still cracked a bit more when I installed it, just gently caress these dashboards in the face
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Jan 6, 2017 21:26
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That was an interesting phone call to follow up - Got a call from a friend whose car had broken down about 30 minutes away, so loaded the Z06 up with tools and fluids to sort out their car's hardarse knocking and clattering issue that had shown up. On checking the car I found -No oil -No coolant -Water in the plugs Sweet Sorted the problems out and then followed behind them to their house for a bit. This was at night so I didn't think much of the yellowish glow underneath their car (thought it was just headlights) then the lining of a catalyctic converter came out the back of their car ...and then a conrod ...and then trailing flames started extending from the sides of the car nope.png Anyway, I found out that the towel you should always bring with in your car is really helpful to open the hood of an on fire car. And I finally got to use my fire extinguisher, though not on the car it was meant for.
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Jan 7, 2017 13:29
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| # ? Apr 19, 2024 11:10 |
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None of that poo poo flying out the back damaged the z06, right? 
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Jan 9, 2017 14:58
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