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I've used Duplicolor or Plastikote (I forget which - whatever it is that O'Reilly's has) brake caliper paint with good results on my RX-7. On my first gen, I actually used Testor's enamel paint (yes, the little 1/4 oz. bottles from a hobby shop) and it lasted years under daily driving street use. It never flaked off or anything, I just upgraded the brakes, so no longer have those calipers on the car. http://www.wright-here.net/images/rx7/79_rx7/rearend_after.jpg http://www.wright-here.net/images/rx7/79_rx7/struts.jpg (Pics on my personal website which doesn't do https, so can't inline) On my Crown Vic, I used KBS Coatings "Motor Coater" paint on the calipers, since no one makes a reasonably-priced white caliper paint. It's held up several months now, so far. That poo poo is thick and messy, but it works. https://www.kbs-coatings.com/engine-paint.html I didn't get the entire kit with cleaners, etc. just the smallest tin of paint, of which I used very little, since it covers pretty well. Album: https://imgur.com/a/WWYPU
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Sep 12, 2017 16:13
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Spades posted:That red looks alright, does the paint keep its gloss finish after application or do you need to apply a separate clear coat? The high heat paint I used on my brakes set dull and needed a separate clear coat afterwards to shine, but I haven't tried my other caliper rated paint on them yet. All the caliper paints I've used stayed glossy, including the Testor's. I much prefer the brush-on kits - it's far easier to do with the calipers still on the car. Just a bit of masking for the brake hose and the bleeder. basically. I've not tried any of the sprays, so can't really comment there.
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Sep 13, 2017 17:56
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Spades posted:After 7 hours of driving I today learned a new lesson - don't trust anything somebody who owns a crashed Honda says. Bought a new set of door locks and the driver's side lock doesn't match, rendering the whole set useless. Have the non-matching ones rekeyed? It's not difficult.
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Sep 17, 2017 22:06
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Spades posted:Now aware this is actually a thing that wouldn't cost more than whole car, that's actually pretty useful. However I think I'll continue with the lock delete simply because the car already has central and without a rear handle the rear lock isn't very helpful. I couldn't tell you how much it would cost, especially in not-USA. A locksmith can just pop off the cap (destroying it in the process) remove guts, and change wafers to match, or even create a new key code and make a key to match, usually. Then they replace the cap with a new one. My locksmith had to remove and measure the wafers to cut me a door key for my Chevy Monza long ago.
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Sep 19, 2017 22:59
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Spades posted:Had a painting disaster today - some fuckass stole my thinners, so I had to go pick up some substitute thinners from supercheap auto. Turns out said thinners are absolutely terrible and anything that didn't dry mid-air and leave dust behind instead lead peel behind. Going to take a week to get the paint dry enough to sand flat and try again, but this isn't going to work as the tuning garage I'm working on it at is going out of business and I'll need to also find a new place to store the car. Sounds like you got a “fast” reducer when you needed “medium” or “slow”.
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Nov 10, 2017 17:37
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