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 Weather update: STAY cloud stay given half a chance this car will try to kill you bad enough in the dry. in 5th gear. case in point, actually - with the semislicks back on and the weather hovering 12 degrees, I got a truffle shuffle on in 3rd at 1500rpm through a roundabout. Fun is not optional. Spades fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Sep 8, 2016 |
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Sep 8, 2016 05:15
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Trip report - a freak lap got me into 1:10, but for the most part I had a decidedly more average range of 1:15 through to 1:18 - I think that tire wear had a lot to do with it as I started the day with half worn semi slicks and ended the day with half worn belts pretending to be tires. The Z06 is very impressive but it's also far more competent than I am at driving - if my ability with the Integra is a 5/10, my ability with the Z06 scratches a 1/10 at best. I know that the car has the likely potential to completely flatten anything that isn't open wheel on the track (even though it did anyway, but to a larger degree) I also started the day by attempting to kill my poor driving instructor https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2YaCRa6D6cg soon america was in swing however  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3Fq9o-OTfs  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yI3FQRx2SQ  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onJ1RWRRtrE While it's cool to pass everyone and all, I'm still a lousy driver and will need to put, I imagine, about 100 hours more around the track before I approach getting a feel for the grip on the Z06. Just being faster than everyone else on the day doesn't mean you're fast, after all. Spades fucked around with this message at 13:04 on Sep 14, 2016 |
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Sep 14, 2016 08:31
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Checked around for advice for the next track day - As it turns out there's hidden track settings activated by hitting the TCS button twice - these turn TCS protection off progressively rather than instantly. I guess next time I will try running it in one of the 'sport' TCS modes that apparently makes more HP available and removes some of the acceleration hang out of hard corners. Seems kind of cool that you can disable only a few features without removing suicide prevention.
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Sep 17, 2016 04:07
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Got invited down to Taupo for a trackday in the Integra. Not the best result - kind of a shameful display on my behalf as I didn't really repeat the Hampton Downs display of murdering cars twice as powerful as my own. However I did almost get me and my passenger killed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSgLae20CAk Best lap - 1:56. I need to lose 10 seconds before I'd be competitive: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qsn67GiLqgM Rain happened. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDrlLogzOls Spades fucked around with this message at 11:07 on Sep 23, 2016 |
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Sep 23, 2016 09:25
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Larrymer posted:What failed on the brakes? (I didn't listen with sound, if that matters) Third gear is a bit bitchy on most K20A-mated gearboxes, so as I heeltoed into it it spat the stick back out after a moment - past 100kph or so the Integra doesn't brake at all unless you're in VTEC and have engine vacuum helping the brakes out. This was combined with the way that the brakes were overheated at the time (was one of the later laps in that session) - basically just all the things that make brakes not work on the car happened at once. On top of that, the brakes on a DC5 Type R aren't actually all that good in the first place - I'm not sure particularly why but despite having 4 pot front and 2 pot rear, the brakes keep overheating regardless of pads used. I suppose it shows that brake tech has come along pretty well given that the Z06's brakes (at racing speeds) seem to literally stop the car in half the distance. Spades fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Sep 23, 2016 |
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Sep 23, 2016 23:32
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Shopping time has arrived as Honda's stock shocks have reached three times their recommended lifespan and now finally given up. I'm leaning towards getting standard OEM replacements, but Koni Yellows (which are highly recommended by other drivers) seem to be about half the price so I'm going to consider whether I want to gently caress with the well-sorted stock suspension. While that's getting done I'll probably give a look at replacing the existing bushings which have started to crack. Due to the various brake issues last session I'm also going to get some EBC Yellowstuff pads for the front. Also the boot has water getting into it somehow so I've repainted the tire well to prevent rust while I try to figure out where it comes from. Kind of annoying that while Honda stuff is engineered in insanely well, you still can't escape entropy and wear items on a car which has been driven hard for its whole lifetime will come up eventually. (I really feel for the suckers who pick up R32 GTRs in the states about now and have to import all their disposables from Japan) Spades fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Sep 26, 2016 |
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Sep 26, 2016 03:01
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some texas redneck posted:For what it's worth, Honda has always had issues with their taillight gaskets leaking once a car gets some years on it, and the first symptom is usually water chilling in the spare tire well. That, and clogged sunroof drains, are your most likely culprits, though you usually wind up with water on the floorboards when the sunroof drains clog. Could be worth a look up - the left rear has condensation in it in the mornings now so it might be getting in through there. Weird though as it seems like it doesn't get in just with the hose on it - will have to experiment longer.
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Sep 26, 2016 09:21
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Larrymer posted:I'd vote to get something else from another manufacturer. Hawk, Carbotech, etc. Also something with a heat range for racing instead of a compromise street/track pad. Should help out the overheating issues I'd think. Been looking at Hawk but they're actually a pain in the rear end to get for a JDM DC5 for some reason - I suppose that due to the way that the JDM DC5 seems to be one of the rarer Type Rs due to the way they released 'fake' DC5 Type Rs for other markets which came with smaller, non-Brembo brakes. Have you found the race pads are usable on the street still? I don't mind some softness as I don't dadbrake on the road but if they barely work at all until they're heated it'd be a bit of a pain (Missing those carbon ceramics again). ED: Gonna see if I can take those tail lights out this weekend and dump gap sealer all over the circumference to see if that does the trick. Seems like it's a better solution than getting new gaskets if the design doesn't last. Spades fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Oct 5, 2016 |
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Oct 4, 2016 20:25
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Octopus Magic posted:A little dusty on track days, but what isn't? Well, in my case, I have the following problems with brake dust on my wheels: Also, I finally sourced the most critical maintenance part for the Type R and got them installed this weekend.  (ITR door cards with red inserts instead of the black ones my car came with) The shock absorber place which assured me that they'd have shock absorbers in place turned out to not actually have any stock for any DC5 models at all and never had, so having been screwed around long enough I just got a new set from the dealership. The OEM rear shocks are coming over(fort)night from Japan and should be here sometime next Friday by the looks, which leaves the car stranded on my driveway while warrant of fitness is un-doable.
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Oct 9, 2016 03:47
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 DO change your shock absorbers  Looking better now. Also I retrieved my Z06 Semislicks.  they're pretty big. Spades fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Oct 29, 2016 |
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Oct 29, 2016 04:15
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 it is important to remember your priorities when spending money
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Nov 1, 2016 06:29
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Some news, since it's been a while and I've been underwater with getting all my consulting business deals nailed down for next year - Going to use the next couple of days/weeks to ideally take the Silvia's many shortcomings to task. My plans in no particular order at this stage are to: upgrade the brakes, convert to 5 stud hubs, repaint the exterior and achieve at least a presentable result, replace the wheels with literally anything else other than the wheels, move the battery to the boot, use stretchable plastic repair to fix the holes in the vinyl, cut and fit a bodge job carpet, re-install the rear spoiler (and eventually replace it with the one decent spoiler that an S14 can fit - the 2nd gen stock turbo one), do something about the buggered front seats, fit custom finger linings on the doors, and, if I can find a reasonable T56/LS1 combo, put an uh, T56/LS1 combo in to replace the 3 speed auto / SR20DE with something that won't always be hilariously terrible The list of fixes is bouyed somewhat by the way the car's such a cheap heap to begin with that it doesn't bother me too much if I screw something up. Yay? --- First step has been to some non-poo poo hubs and brakes so the thing can actually stop and doesn't have the most heinous looking wheels in the world anymore:  This is an R33 Skyline brake conversion kit, where the upgraded brakes have been threaded onto stock Turbo Silvia hubs, carriers and A-Arms so it should attach easily enough. Going to have to see what I need to do to adapt the handbrake cables in the Skyline's drum brakes to the hand brake tensioner but hopefully it is not literally impossible. Since the car won't get very far if I drive it around on the bared brake discs, I also got sourced some filthy old 5-stud S15 wheels and attacked them with metal polish today. Result acceptable, but I may yet still paint them black to fit with my newfound hatred of exterior metal finish.  Sidenote: Stock Nissan wheels are ungodly god-drat heavy. Like the rear wheels of my Z06 weigh half as much as one of these 16 inch 'alloys'. Alloyed with lead and neutronium apparently. Apologies to anyone who has experienced tsunamis in the wake of my moving the drat things 300km and upsetting the earth's magnetic poles. --- Also got a collection of body repair, interior repair and general repair stuff to fix up the ruined interior and ruined exterior. While it's a bit much for me to fully dissasemble the car during my 3 week break in order to paint it, I'm going to at least do a very thorough hackjob of painting it up with boat paint.  Here is an actual boat, with the actual boat paint. It's red. Spades fucked around with this message at 10:21 on Dec 16, 2016 |
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Dec 16, 2016 06:51
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Wanna know more about dat boat. Looks like a good boat! Afraid I can't say much more for that one, it's just the first boatly result for when I search for Rochelle Red. On the other hand, here's one my dad built: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y4RCEB_3Zvg -550 cubic inches, 7500 rpm FE side-oiler -fuel pump from f4u corsair -starvation issues due to holley 1250 NASCAR carb not being able to feed enough -straight pipes? no, straight headers -850hp at the crank on regular unleaded -I'M MILES HIGH AND BULLETPROOF  While I'm here I might as well dump a few of his other projects: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPuZUmC0-o8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-29Lpt2feWc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9VLHMIYrWo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khJzzFA_aBk Dad's world is fire. And blood. (loving chinese ratchet handles) Spades fucked around with this message at 10:28 on Dec 16, 2016 |
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Dec 16, 2016 10:17
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Wait... FE? Like ford edsel FE? Because god damned, your dad is loving insane. I mean, 850hp in a boat is its own special brand of insane, but doing it with a 60 year old motor design that has nowhere near the aftermarket support of a standard bbf is turning up to 11. A Galaxie 427 FE - Dad built a drag racing car / daily driver / boat tower after transplanting one of those into his Fairlane at the time. Unfortunately it had a habit of spitting out 9 Inch diffs like they were made of cheese due to the torque - so he put it in a boat, where it can't show its contempt any longer for the common or garden driveline. An entertaining car to be sure though - apparently running through 30 sets of tires, seven driveshifts, four diffs and a transmission in one year at one point.
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Dec 16, 2016 10:48
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For inspiration for the Silvia I went to a car show today NEVER go to a car show like goddamn car show people are the pubbies of the car world
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Dec 17, 2016 01:17
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Raluek posted:Please buy your dad an account. Please. Did I mention the time that during the 1970s fuel rationing, he invented an outboard coal fume gassifier system solely so that he could do burnouts outside of the police station on the days the police weren't allowed to drive?
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Dec 17, 2016 06:33
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9 days into it and the progress is sorta getting there on the Silvia. Naturally this process is taking longer than otherwise because the previous owner was a loving retard like poo poo, everything in this car is broken or damaged in some way due to owner retardation A list of damage: -LED strip went out on the spoiler, so instead of fixing it, they cut off the connector and hardwired an aftermarket brake light to the circuit and then took the spoiler off and put tape over the holes instead of filling those -Random AC cabling attached to stereo and left to flap around inside the car -'75% Tint' added to interior lights, making them useless without ripping it off -Stupid loving sun shield added by stretching electrician's tape across the top of the windshield -Radio surround broken by being ripped out without removing the AC controller first -Transmission surround broken by being ripped out from the wrong end -Center console broken by monkeying too hard on the armrest -Both door cards broken by slamming doors too hard, causing hairline fractures all up the door card -Door handles broken by ripping them out without removing the screws holding them to the door -AC vent shround broken in passenger's side door -AC vertical vent adjustment vane broken in passenger's side door -Missing bolts and screws everywhere -Front bumper splitter rubbed away completely in places and cracked (despite having about 8 inches of clearance under the bumper) -Driver's side mirror internal boom elbow broken -Glovebox broken by apparently ripping the handle off -Rear seats have cigarette burn -Front driver's seat torn in two places, missing foam (how the gently caress does this even happen? do these people wear knife pants?) -Front passenger seat missing adjuster bar cap -Speakers may or may not be wired retarded -Aftermarket reversing beepers were duct taped to the rear bumper and the cabling was resting on the exhaust pipe -Automatic radio antenna is broken -Numberplate screw threads stripped -Fusebox kickplate kicked until broken -Carpet rubbed so raw that it went through the rubber backing material and exposed to the base metal -Incredibly expensive ADVAN V2 Super wheels painted in $3 enamel paint; center caps attemped to be removed by hammer from some fucktard But the sunroof works! Some of these fuckups are offensive to me as a mechanically inclined person because they outline the outright fuckheadedness of the owner in question, none moreso than the issue with the ADVANs. These things go for about $2000-3000 a set - more than the loving car sold for - and yet they'll need refurbishing before they can be used for anything now because the loving retarded oval office tried to remove the (incredibly engineered, beautifully machined, seize-proof, o-ring sealed) center caps with a loving HAMMER. These wheels might be ugly as hell but they're some of the best made wheels on the market and now they'll require, at minimum, extensive paint stripping followed by a recoat in epoxy and then repainting. All because some rear end in a top hat couldn't be bothered to borrow a plumber's wrench and then tried to hide their ape-like shame with terrible paint. I hate the way that these cars were seemingly built by at least mildly passionate engineers back in the heydey of Japanese sports coupes, built to be enjoyed by a then-booming demographic of enthusiast drivers, and yet this one eventually ended up in the hands of a loving stupid bogan oval office who hosed it all to hell by smashing, stomping, headbutting and otherwise doing dumb retarded poo poo to the whole car to the point that it needs weeks of work to even attempt to set it right. Spades fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Dec 29, 2016 |
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Dec 29, 2016 01:49
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i had to download gimp and it sucks and i didnt want to cut the logo out properly eat me So, a decent chunk of the refurb work is out of the way and I'll start re-assembling the car soon. Will post actual content when the urges strike me.
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Jan 1, 2017 10:43
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Most of the paintwork is done now, with the cleanup happening over the next couple of days. If anyone has not painted with epoxy enamel before, imagine the process being the opposite of painting with regular car paint - it's slow drying, extremely durable scratch-resistant paint that is extremely sanding friendly and can be applied just as nicely with a brush or roller as it can be with a gun. It also doesn't fade when not clearcoated (at least not the expensive stuff which I'm using) and actually works better without a clearcoat. However, it's very 'sloppy', and nearly impossible to lay down clean coats with - instead you kind of just throw huge wads of paint at the thing you're painting and sand back all the orange peel. This means it takes a while to get a result (and the slow drying time means it takes a full day between each coat) but reaching that result won't be catastrophically compromised if you so much as breathe on the paint after application. Another nice bonus is that you can get super brightly saturated colors like luminescent 'guitar body' reds which don't really exist anymore with traditional urethane paints; you can also repair any chips, scratches etc by just spreading on more paint, as no clearcoat means no hella complicated clearcoat removal every time the slightest colorcoat damage occurs. Anyway, we started with this:  I removed all the panels (with exception to the doors - a bit too much work to disconnect them for my laziness) and the windows (gently caress messing with those without a professional) and keyed everything down, razored off all the badges, knocked out dents and applied the new long carbon fibre filler to the remains. Here's dad confirming this looks ugly:  I would like to make a brief aside to mention the buckets of suds there. As it turns out, this car is totally loving saturated in two things. The first thing is literal poo poo. Like, endless amber waves of cow poo poo permeated every single exposed structural member of the entire car, whether it be little dusty dried out turds under the carpet or big splattering shitprints all inside the rear bumper or just caked on rear end-crust in every one of the guards. The second thing?  Fnnnnnnrrr Anyway, we masked up and applied undercoats and some color:  We also got overspray all over the engine bay because who takes masking that seriously really Anyway, the masking tape was starting to brick up due to being on the body for too long so a day or two ago we pulled all the masks off.  As mentioned, this color is hella vibrant. I am actually more taken with it than I originally thought. Anyway, if you look closely you can see the damage caused by leaving the masking tape on too long - basically, it bonded with the wet paint and caused some minor chipping around the window seals, etc. This is before sandback as well, so the final result will have more shine and less lemonpeel. JPEG compression robs a bit of the slight crimson tinge that this paint has so I might make sure to upload the post-sandback photos in PNG. Thankfully, this doesn't matter much as we just hand painted over the damage to hide it - again with the boat painting techniques basically. Spades fucked around with this message at 11:30 on Jan 1, 2017 |
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Jan 1, 2017 11:25
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Quick background on what I'm doing - since the car's mechanically sound, but completely hosed in terms of wear, I want to clean it up as much as possible before undergoing any major mechanical changes so that it can make a tolerable runabout and spare car in the interim, rather than look like some teenager's Initial D fantasy mobile. Anyway, more content - Every light fitting on the car had turned the flat, greyish UV stain color that cars of this period always end up rocking after their lovely factory UV sealings give up about five minutes into ownership, so part of my refurb is to get all of the housings looking non-gently caress-awful. This basically involves using some wetsand paper, then a few different levels of cutting compounds and finally clearcoating the headlights with a decent clear coat to give them a shiny finish and hide the tool marks from the work done on them. I had a go at this shortly after buying the car - however the clear coat wasn't decent at all, reacted with the plastic (what), turned yellow, contracted and cracked, giving the headlights a pretty cool "loving ruined" finish. So first step was to take hardarse 60 grain sandpaper to the lovely clear coat and rip it all off. Usually I'd start at nothing harder than 600, but seeing as this is a Silvia - and loving up is okay when it's not a great car in the first place - I figured I'd see how it came out. (should have taken a before photo but I didn't, oh well). After ripping up the headlights' faces, I used some 240 to cover up the tool marks and then went through 600, 1000 and 1500 before using some compounds. I went with meguiar's ultimate compound, then meguiar's scratchX and finally meguiar's polish. Before and after from wetsanding stage to compound stage:  Did all the other parts too:  I used a pretty interesting sealant made by a greek company, EN Chemicals. It's a rattlecan but it sprays a strange kind of gel rather than normal paint, which is extremely self levelling, very iridiscent in finish and has a weird drying process. Basically, it stays extremely fluid for roughly 20 minutes, and then turns solid in the space of about 5-10 seconds. By 'extremely self levelling', I mean that you can literally spray a spot of it, drag a finger through it and come back to find the spot re-formed again. Due to my own impatience I got a few runs when spraying the headlights but they levelled themselves off to the point of near invisibility anyway. Anyway, worked good:  Eventually going to use a final buff of polishing compound to get out the lemon peel you can see in the reflection of the rear light bar and a few other places: 
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Jan 1, 2017 11:54
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Larrymer posted:That red looks awesome. What brand of paint did you use? In the US, people use Rustoleum or some sort of tractor paint for roll on jobs but it looks like you sprayed it. I used International - which I think is called Interlux in the states. It's expensive as mothering gently caress (about 2-3x what Rustoleum costs, from what I can tell) but is UV proofed and holds a mirror shine when polished (can't really wax a yacht, after all). I considered going a cheaper route but with how much work there is involved in a cohesive exterior paintjob I thought that I might as well spring a bunch and not have to redo it in a years' time or so. Initially we sprayed the paint on with about ~45% thinners and a vapour gas mask (you really don't want to breathe atomized epoxy enamel) but the difference in smoothness versus using a high quality roller isn't really worth it - it was good for getting all the complicated parts of the doorjams coated though. For the rest of the body panels they've been rolled and paired down with sandpaper between coats. Also the brakes still aren't here so I'm going to make a call to see what the story is.
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Jan 1, 2017 19:24
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Had some rage quit moments last night over the dashboard fixes not having cleaned up very nicely but managed to salvage my mood today and get some more stuff done. Bought a roll of black/dark charcoal dappled outdoor carpet and spent a few hours origami-ing it into the car before trimming it out. I'll take photos later - result is actually pretty alright, sits reasonably well with a few folds and tucks to take care of tension. I am debating wether to cut and fit it for a seamless look or just leave it with the folds in; while I've heard some people stretch this stuff out, the thin backing and artificial fibres make me think that you'd want to leave it in its original state to ensure its toughness. While I'm not even considering performance yet, funny thing is that it weighs several pounds less than the extremely heavy carpet that used to be in there. With no padding or shape moulding it's less lumpy as well - closer to the 'tarp with fuzz on it' style of the Type R. Also, sound deadening in these cars is pretty much just enormous slabs of rock hard bitumen. Kinda tempted to see how loud it is without the blocks down there but there's no way this poo poo is coming off without a pneumatic impact chisel. Laid the 35mm battery relocation cable, so I can finally start re-installing most of the interior after finishing the last of the painting work. Going to paint the interior of the boot in black chassis paint as I found a few spots of rust and don't really want the old dull pink-red undercoat from the factory casually visible if I can help it. Also to idiot proof the battery job I went and vinylsprayed the positive cable red, go me, top job Sourcing an LS1 is proving interesting and the better plan may be to actually wait until a de-registered LS1 Holden V8 with a manual transmission comes up for sale and buy that instead - the price will be the same but it'll come with a few extra pieces that could be of use. I will need to urgently part out the remaining body to ensure that my dad does not drop a 565 merlin into it over a weekend, 'because it needed an engine and I had this one not being used'. Spades fucked around with this message at 11:42 on Jan 3, 2017 |
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Jan 3, 2017 11:33
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So, progress so far - did a test fit today for all the panelwork just to see what things are looking like. (more: http://imgur.com/a/Bi42T) Interior is back in but needs a vacuum:  Keeping in mind the car looked like this two weeks ago -   (more: http://imgur.com/a/MEEhT) think I'm doing okay Energy is really really drained at this point though - broke a few things along the way (araldite saved me a mental breakdown at least) and didn't really feel like I fixed as much as I wanted to. I think I'll come back to the car after I've had some time to relax properly.
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Jan 5, 2017 07:58
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  And we're done for now, hooray. In two weeks' time the epoxy enamel will have reached its peak curing and the car will be ready for sandback, upon where it will look about as shiny and deep as an ocean made of well cut diamonds. Driver's wing mirror is slightly cockeyed because the light and medium duty fixes didn't work, so the next step is to pretty much just bathe the whole housing in araldite so that it becomes a solid block unable to break again. The mirrors on the S14 are really badly designed - the exterior housing locates the interior motors, so basically any hard hit to the top of the mirror will snap the (toothpick thin) interior elbow between the motors and the mirror backing plate. And I need to find a new dashboard also as the current one is just plan garbo. It may be best if I actually get a fibreglass aftermarket replacement, or create some vinyl overlays and glue them on top to fake the re-upholstered look. Two weeks of work for I guess some kind of result - it's hard not to feel a lingering lack of satisfaction when doing big jobs on cars because you always tend to gently caress up small or big parts in the process and never quite get the outcome you want.  Also: always use the envelope system (note that I still was left with a mystery bolt or two. Surely these don't belong to the transmission crossmember or anything) Octopus Magic posted:Looks good. I'll likely go the other way and match the door cards to the seats I plan to put in - SR4 recaros like the DC5, but the grey/black standalone non-Integra model. So the door cards (and rear door cards, which are currently unlined) will be grey alcantara. This of course assumes I put the LS1 in since I like few things less than racing seats in a car that doesn't need them (and nearly no cars really need racing seats)
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Jan 6, 2017 06:45
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Octopus Magic posted:Putting in a fixed bucket and a smaller steering wheel made a really big difference car control wise (the stock leather seats were like sitting on ice, and the stock wheel would make some autocross turns more or less impossible) for my hooptie (not my car but w/e): This is fair since you're literally using the car for competition, which makes them completely acceptable - which is something 90% of 'jdm tyte' cars fitting SR3-era Recaros never even get close to (at least partly because the aftermarket turbo overheats before they even get it to the track to begin with) Also those seats look like they need to have that generic jazz pattern on them
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Jan 6, 2017 19:55
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Bit of a retrospective work breakdown -  Old carpet smelled to wet dogs, drunk piss and horse poo poo and was so thoroughly rotted through that even the rubber backing had been worn out. Not saveable even with a bag of flock so I ripped it out and go some of that hardware store artificial fibre carpet and folded it in -  At this stage you could begin to cut the carpet where the folds exist and then glue plastic backing strips to make the joins seamless, but honestly with the seats test-fitted in place none of the folds showed enough to worry me so I went with it as it is. The stuff is tough as hell so the lack of any insulation below shouldn't cause it to die young. It also weighs next to nothing, just like the DC5 carpet.  Laying battery cable through bodywork so the carpet isn't too miserable.  Idiot proofed the far end so that ideally nobody will make any mistakes with terminals. This is as far as I'm going at the moment with the battery relocation since the requirements to relocate a battery are different between normal and dry cell batteries, and a high CCA rating will likely be neccessary to turn the LS1 over.  Dashboard, post fixes. Couldn't get textured vinyl spray in NZ so it looks ugly, then it still cracked a bit more when I installed it, just gently caress these dashboards in the face
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Jan 6, 2017 21:26
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That was an interesting phone call to follow up - Got a call from a friend whose car had broken down about 30 minutes away, so loaded the Z06 up with tools and fluids to sort out their car's hardarse knocking and clattering issue that had shown up. On checking the car I found -No oil -No coolant -Water in the plugs Sweet Sorted the problems out and then followed behind them to their house for a bit. This was at night so I didn't think much of the yellowish glow underneath their car (thought it was just headlights) then the lining of a catalyctic converter came out the back of their car ...and then a conrod ...and then trailing flames started extending from the sides of the car nope.png Anyway, I found out that the towel you should always bring with in your car is really helpful to open the hood of an on fire car. And I finally got to use my fire extinguisher, though not on the car it was meant for.
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Jan 7, 2017 13:29
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Good point actually - in the hurry to un-fire a car I suppose it's easy to forget like, chemistry and stuff. The Silvia's paint is almost getting to the point it's hard enough to actually work with now, which is a bit of progress at least. A couple of dents that weren't visible before putting decent paint on the car have made themselves known so I'm going to have to try knocking those out - fortunately epoxy is pretty high build paint so it should be able to mask them alright. Brakes have arrived too but I'm out of time to install them so when I'm next free up I'll go ahead and do stuff with them. The Commodore might actually have somebody interested in buying it for some reason so I'll see what becomes of that.
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Jan 14, 2017 22:33
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So, the projects are going well and there's a potential for a pretty decent payout once we finish completing the first round sales. (There is also a potential for nothing to happen and I have to find a new client) With this in mind, I was considering whether I should go off the deep end completely and buy a car which makes a car like the McLaren P1 compare like a bloated, slow pig:  I wouldn't even be close to buying until the end of the year, and that's if the project turns into something in the end. I seem to remember a goon or two out there has an Ultima GTR - anyone know of them or can chime in on how they are? Spades fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Jan 24, 2017 |
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Jan 24, 2017 02:47
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Bit of an update stack since not much too noteworthy has happened in a bit - New trackday booked in for 17 March in the Integra, will see if the new work I've done works out good or not. Fitted some stainless steel braided brake lines to the Integra as the existing lines were very soft, probably from previous overheats weakening the line's rigidity. Also picked up some green project mu brake pads which are a hell of a lot more aggressive than the previous ones. However, while changing the lines enough air got into some U-bends in the hard lines that normal bleeding won't get it out. I'm going to drop it off to get blown free later this week and also get the wheels aligned. on the ups my wheel arches now have a Takata-DOME color scheme and yes, like on every car, the massive amounts of curb rash are from the previous owner  Friend was parting out an R33 Skyline and looking to make some money on the parts so they dropped off some clouded as gently caress headlights for me to play around with.  Managed to clear them up decently, though not quite perfect - using a good brass polish as the final step is key and I didn't have any this time.  Used the ranger method to clean out the clutch fluid a little bit. you should let your fluids turn this color in the following circumstances: -  Tail lights hadn't stopped their leaky thing any better than before so about time I took care of it. Took the tail off and noticed a bit of rust had climbed into the rails the lights sit on and the whole thing was generally kind of filthy.  Cleaned up the tail a bit and removed the lights, then put them in the oven to remove the moisture that'd crept in due to the gaskets going bad.  Tail light rails after rust removal and zinc coating. Took the gaskets off of the tail lights completely, laid a trench of RTV silicone where the original glue failed, smooshed it down on the tail light, then laid a bead on the opposite site where the other pinch mating point was. Before putting the tails back on, also laid a fresh second bead of RTV around the existing one to ensure everything sticks together and mates properly.   Reassembling the car-rear end, I managed to learn that the brass threaded bolts that hold the tail lights on are not, in fact, tensioning bolts. Do not torque them with any thing more than a six point socket on a screw driver or they will happily come to pieces and make you hate everything. also ROCKET BUN no gently caress off you loving unconscionable hungus  Now the car coesn't seem to leak anymore, but annoyingly the fitment is ever so slightly off due to the way the RTV is probably a little too tall to compress completely. 
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Feb 26, 2017 02:04
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Some news down the line - looks like I may have finally successfully formed a New Zealand 24 hour of Lemons group; pretty keen on seeing if we can make something of it. The car we'll be using is likely an R32 Skyline Sedan with an RB20DE and fun-tastic automatic which one of my mates picked up for $150. The plan is that after racing it we will export it to the US and sell it for $20,000. In the meantime I'll be spending this weekend, if time permits, to take the interior out. NZ Lemons budget is $999, including car purchasing cost, so the plan is to fit a transmission cooler, larger radiator, more aggressive thermostat, racing brake pads and some gauges so we can pit the car out before it inevitably throws a rod due to missing at least one of its precious bodily fluids. I am also looking for livery ideas. A fingerpainted version of the Fast and the Furious R34 is strongly in the running, but only if my fabrication skills allow us to fit a plywood R34 GTR spoiler replica.
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Mar 9, 2017 03:13
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BuckyDoneGun posted:There's only one livery for an R32: All of those ideas actually sound pretty good and will need to be strongly considered. Also, During debate, we did have a secondary idea - since it's a fourdoor, and we're got a spare holden GT wing just sitting around, we were going to dress it up as a peter brock malboro commodore (The wing even means Holden will be in behind, just like in real life). the only problem with this idea is that the rules of entry state nothing about what happens if your pit crew is beaten to death with vb crate bottles
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Mar 12, 2017 05:23
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snip, post later
Spades fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Mar 13, 2017 |
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Mar 13, 2017 02:33
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need help, lost in maize
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Mar 15, 2017 08:02
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Report back from track day: Another dead loss like with Taupo, with my average lap actually being up to a full 5 seconds slower with the new brakes. I suspect that this is because I was a bit out of practice and also because of the way I was using the old brakes' braking points, which lead to me both braking too early and slowing down too much for each corner. I also had tires running at 30psi instead of 26/28 due to the issues with stock camber causing the tires to fold over and wreck themselves. However, the tires STILL rolled over and wrecked themselves so I've managed to actually destroy tires faster on the Integra than the z06 twice now. The new brake pads also developed a sticking problem which caused the car to jerk to the right under heavy braking. On the positive side, I randomly bumped into cute canadian girl again and chased her slicks-wearing DC5 gen2 down for a few laps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVVcrbCAOVw Later once I got done pretending to be a race driver I managed to hang with the Exige you see in the video above for about 3 laps, which I'll cut up and post later perhaps. I also managed to get a stand down warning from a track marshall for when I got tired with my lovely brake pads and Scandinavian flicked the first corner, which is apparently the first time they've needed to reprimand somebody for drifting in a front wheel drive car. rad.
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Mar 18, 2017 04:11
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrm8i2VpdhE More footage, on analysis I've figured that my main problem is definitely over-braking for corners on the new pads - my cornering speed compared to previous videos is visibly a bunch slower. So time for more practice I guess.
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Mar 23, 2017 07:15
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Randomly had a little tail wiggle last week: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycO_MRVLHcA Lately I've been working on a project S15 Silvia Turbo together with a mate who runs a local tuning shop - will have to post up some photos once I get primer on the bodywork I've been straightening up. Initial prognosis on the car is pretty terrible as the previous owner performed the standard set of high quality Silvia mawds: -Front bumper crossmember removed - bumper secured by nothing -Random aftermarket intercooler, intake and turbo exhaust manifold, none of which were secured -Cheapest possible fibreglass wide body and fender kits secured by zipties and holes drilled through the frame without zincing -Front bumper frame from a different car welded on after crash -Every piece of bodykit cracked or chipped -lovely DMAX hood vent let into rainwater which rusted the turbocharger out -Rear wide body attached with pop rivets, also not zinced -Rear window spoiler attached with an entire tube of toilet sealant -Battery moved to boot. Battery not secured in boot. Battery found upside down and leaking in boot. -Interior scratched and mostly ruined -Cheap lovely pedal covers and gear knob -Ghetto manual conversion with flywheel not torqued -Unthinned 1k primer spraypainted directed onto un-degreased, un-scuffed gelcoat which still had mould knocker on it, leaving a layer of extremely soft, unadhered, gritty primer that needs to now be painstakingly ground off before new 2k primer can be applied I can't overstate how lovely this primer job is. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9m1EjAL8Uys Also, 17th of June I'm on the race track again. I have no high hopes for the day as it's said to be 'more of a cruise', which likely means ricers terrified of corners and have never seen a track before nearly crashing into me every corner. I'll be bringing the DC5 since the last time I went to one of these events I got a bunch of asshurt kids trying to start poo poo with me after I devastated their '600 kilowattz bro' cars every which way. On the positive, I've managed to rope a bunch of people who haven't previously tracked their cars into coming along with me. Looking forward to seeing if I can't get a few people converted to the idea as it took me a bit of a push myself to get into trackdays myself. Spades fucked around with this message at 05:13 on May 23, 2017 |
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May 23, 2017 04:57
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C10 pickup? I require photographic proof of this machine I have been floating the idea of buying some land in the middle of nowhere to build a family estate together with my extended family and was thinking if I do a build of anything else it'll be a old chevrolet pickup with massaged-in hilux parts and a 572 crate engine. Because sometimes you want to pull the stump with the tree still attached. Also, I have discovered MSC. Finally a game about doing what I already pretty much try to do in real life anyway. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K37QWXgUn8o
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May 24, 2017 05:07
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IOwnCalculus posted:
That looks pretty awesome, paint flakes or no - will have to read up on it tonight
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May 24, 2017 05:18
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I went to one of those 'fake' track days where they basically just have unregulated speed on the track and tell everyone not to crash into each other, and you're allowed passengers. With this in mind I decided to try some stuff out (bear in mind my wide angle lens kills the sensation) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSx-jBvL5M0 my passengers didnt like it as much I'm going to upload some more when I get the encoding done. This time around I basically chased down a bunch of boy racers who've never had a real race in their lives which lead to their massacre at the hands of my generic white hatchback.
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Jun 17, 2017 09:38
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