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kastein posted:I think my favorite is how Subaru puts plastic armor over them to prevent rust, but has to remove it at the ends so the flare nuts will fit right, and therefore water wicks under the plastic and eats the exposed ends right by the flare nuts anyways. And how Chrysler puts steel wire coiled around the lines to protect them from gravel, but all it really does is act as a very effective saltwater trap that again rots the steel pipe. Ford did that on the filler neck on my Mustang. Nice corrugated plastic to keep all the poo poo out. And by 'keep all the poo poo out', I mean 'trap absolutely loving everything' so the filler neck rusts into oblivion while it looks fine at a glance. I probably dumped close to quarter pound of bullshit out of there when I changed the neck.
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Jun 1, 2016 18:57
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Dropped the spare yesterday and it came down like new. The steel spare wheel wasn't even rusted, I've never seen that before, even on other cars from the South. I cleaned it, aired it up (was at 15psi) and put it back. One of the upcoming jobs is plugs, perhaps plug wires. I tried a couple of the easiest-to-get-to plugs (twisting/pulling) and those plug wires are fused on there. What's the best tool for boot pulling?
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Jun 2, 2016 12:21
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EVERYWHERE 
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Black88GTA posted:That haze in the top of the headlights is just that - inside. There are ways to clean it out, but I haven't bothered yet. That haze bothered me. I gave the outsides a good polish, but the haze makes it look like poo poo. I saw that on most of the trucks I looked at, I didn't know that it was inside. Sometimes you can believe what you find on the internet. Side with just outside polish:  Side after washing the inside with a strong mix of isopropyl alcohol and water:  There's still a few drops inside, it's not fully dry yet. I had to re-do it with a stronger mixture of alcohol because my first mix of filtered water and alcohol was leaving spots. This seems to be better. The difference is much bigger than the pictures show, it's hard to capture the haze in a picture, but it's mainly in the top 25% of the lens. Edit: Easier to see here with the lights on... you should see nothing but reflector in the top HID low beam... this is all cloudy:  Whereas the finished side is dead clear (again with low and high beams on):  I just finished both sides. Now I need to let it sit open so the water/alcohol mixture evaporates. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Jun 2, 2016 |
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Jun 2, 2016 15:15
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Hey GM sells a reduced price prebent set of brake lines for $100. The ones on this truck though are dreamy. They are kinda fun to change if you like scraping all the skin off your fingers playing brake line tetris.
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Jun 2, 2016 15:33
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So is there a way to prevent the haze from even happening? The lenses on the Lexus are perfect and I'd like to keep them that way if I could. Also for the plug wires use any sort of pry tool you can fit in there to get some leverage, but don't do it until you have a new set of plugs and wires ready to go in case they break off. Kinda surprised that truck isn't COP.
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Jun 2, 2016 15:54
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What about something like this? http://www.germanautoparts.com/Tools/Volkswagen/Ignition%20tools
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Jun 2, 2016 16:03
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leica posted:So is there a way to prevent the haze from even happening? The lenses on the Lexus are perfect and I'd like to keep them that way if I could. ChrisFix puts on clear coat: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEJbKLZ7RmM How Larry overkills it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqOKmZ9mMfc VVVVVV: Oh poo poo, sucking at reading comprehension here 
MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Jun 2, 2016 |
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Jun 2, 2016 16:45
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MrOnBicycle posted:ChrisFix puts on clear coat: That's for a different problem. These particular headlights haze up on the INSIDE. I woudn't worry about that, leica, this is the first model of car I've seen that hazes up the inside, along with the standard outside hazing.
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Jun 2, 2016 16:59
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Good job on cleaning the lights up. I'll get around to cleaning mine one day I will never get around to cleaning mine  meatpimp posted:Dropped the spare yesterday and it came down like new. The steel spare wheel wasn't even rusted, I've never seen that before, even on other cars from the South. I cleaned it, aired it up (was at 15psi) and put it back. The next car I buy is coming from the south, god drat. I still can't loving believe the condition of those brake lines  FWIW, my spare came down and went up just fine...it was the lovely mechanism that holds the tire to the cable itself. It was rusted solid. quote:One of the upcoming jobs is plugs, perhaps plug wires. These will change your life. Hands down the best tools for this I have ever used. Also works amazingly on heat fused vacuum / fuel / whatever lines in awkward places.
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Jun 3, 2016 00:00
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I was gonna post the shorter version of what black88 recomended. The short and long ones make short work of all round rubber things that need taking off
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Jun 3, 2016 00:46
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Except the that engine should have a metal heat shield surrounding the bottom of the wire to protect it from the exhaust manifold. Gm says gently caress your fancy tool.
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Jun 3, 2016 01:44
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Elmnt80 posted:Except the that engine should have a metal heat shield surrounding the bottom of the wire to protect it from the exhaust manifold. Gm says gently caress your fancy tool. True, but the top of the stock plug boots extends far enough past it enough to get the pliers on. It did on mine, at least. I don't have any pics handy of when I did it, but I found this terrible pic (allegedly from an Avalanche, but same deal) that shows it:  e: meatpimp posted:Yeah, saying hard brake lines are a wear item is bullshit. GM cost cutting... like just now, I went to take out the cabin air filters to change them... only to find out that GM stopped putting cabin air filters in Escalades after 2002. Missed this earlier, probably because I was in astonishment over the brake line pic on the same post. When they took out the cabin filters, GM just modified the existing airbox mold to be sealed up instead of having an access hole for the filters. As a result, it's actually pretty trivial* to cut the airbox with a dremel to add them back in. The screw boss for the access panel is still there, as are the molded in guides for the filters inside the box. There's a writeup on how to do so, but I don't have the link handy...you may have to brave the Cadillac forums to find it. Either way, it requires a trim screw, a piece of aluminum and some appropriate weatherstripping to cover up the hole. I had to buy a 2 foot length of aluminum when I did it, and you need exactly 1 foot for the job. I still have the remaining 12" section of mine left if you want it. Once the mod is done, you just use the filters that were used in the 2002s. *Apparently there were two different types of airbox used in the 2002 - 2006 Escalade. One is easy to mod to take the filters, the other apparently is not. I got lucky and had the easy one, but you'd have to check yours out and make sure you've got the same one. Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Jun 3, 2016 |
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Jun 3, 2016 02:28
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You grab the metal surround with needle noses and pull. A little heat and wd40 helps.
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Jun 3, 2016 05:29
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 Black88GTA posted:The next car I buy is coming from the south, god drat.  I never knew I needed those pliers until now.And yeah... cars down here just don't rust. The paint takes a beating though, as does anything rubber under the hood; the interior does too unless you use good tint..
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Jun 3, 2016 05:56
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Holy poo poo, zerk fittings. I was under the front changing the front diff fluid and saw zerk fittings on the tie rods. I don't think I've seen those on a car of mine in 15 years. It looked like they hadn't been lubed in a while, so I put 4 pumps in each one and I'll see if that makes a difference in feel. What is conventional wisdom on this -- pump until it comes out from around the boot, or a few pumps on occasion?
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Jun 3, 2016 13:48
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Pump until comes out is what I learned. Yeah probably never greased.
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Jun 3, 2016 14:15
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Out of curiosity, what transmission and transfer case is in one of those? Does the case use the blue fluid or just ATF?
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Jun 3, 2016 16:18
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rdb posted:Out of curiosity, what transmission and transfer case is in one of those? Does the case use the blue fluid or just ATF? I think the transmission is a 4L65E, not sure on that. I also don't know which transfer case it is, but I do know that it takes regular ATF. The Envoy went to salvage with a xfer case filled with fresh blue stuff. Edit: Transfer case is a Borg Warner 4481 NR3. No low range on this one, permanent 60/40 torque split. Edit 2: Definitely not the blue stuff in the transfer case. Changed front diff fluid (magnet had a good bit of material, but nothing worrisome), transfer case fluid, and engine oil. PO said he never used synthetic, so I got the joy of feeling a dino-oil only small block changed to Mobil 1. I love those times. You can tell an immediate difference in smoothness with a fresh change to synthetic. Still to come: Rear diff fluid, transmission fluid, coolant, brake fluid, probably brake pads and rotors -- basically, I'm going down the same road that I just did with the Envoy. Only this time, the damned thing jumps when you stomp on the gas. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Jun 3, 2016 |
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Jun 3, 2016 16:49
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meatpimp posted:Still to come: Rear diff fluid, transmission fluid, coolant, brake fluid, probably brake pads and rotors -- basically, I'm going down the same road that I just did with the Envoy. Only this time, the damned thing jumps when you stomp on the gas. If you want a little more stopping power and a lot less fade (especially important if you want to tow stuff), front rotors / calipers from an '07 bolt right up. The 07 rotors are 1" bigger in diameter. If you're doing pads / rotors anyway, might be a good time to swap out calipers too and take advantage of the upgrade. The downside is, the bigger brakes will no longer clear the stock spare tire.
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Jun 3, 2016 20:13
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Black88GTA posted:If you want a little more stopping power and a lot less fade (especially important if you want to tow stuff), front rotors / calipers from an '07 bolt right up. The 07 rotors are 1" bigger in diameter. If you're doing pads / rotors anyway, might be a good time to swap out calipers too and take advantage of the upgrade. The downside is, the bigger brakes will no longer clear the stock spare tire. I think just proper stock brakes with grippy pads will suffice. I've got a set of AC Delco Professional Ceramics on the counter, the same type I put on the Envoy and I was happy with them. I'll get a set of rotors ordered and give it a refresh. Wireless systems chat: Homelink works fine and is programmed. TPMS and Keyless entry still do not work. I've gone through the reset/reprogram list for both, multiple times. No repsonse from the car for any of the TPMS sensors as I let air out per procedure. No response from the car from pressing the lock-and-unlock buttons on the 2 existing or 1 new keyfob. Looks like both the TPMS and Keyless Entry goes though a PDM (Passenger Door Module), which is the module on the passenger door that has the lock/unlock and window control buttons. I've got a replacement coming and I hope that takes care of the problem. One weird thing, after reading a dozen Keyless Entry programming pages and watching half a dozen youtube videos, when I do the key on-off-on-off thing, the car responds with a honk and lock/unlock cycle. Everything I've seen and read shows that the car should just lock/unlock without the horn. Hopefully this is pointing to something with the PDM. We'll see.
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Jun 6, 2016 16:44
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meatpimp posted:Holy poo poo, zerk fittings. Pump until a quarter pump before it comes out.
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Jun 6, 2016 17:16
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meatpimp posted:For those of you that have Escalades (or any GM car or one of several other brands), run your VIN through compnine.com, it costs a couple bucks, but gives you an instant list of all the RPO codes your car/truck came with. It was invaluable in cutting through the bullshit of sellers as I was looking for this one. And this one was by far the most loaded one I looked at. A bit late for this but most post 2000 GM stuff I can run the VINs on and give you the full build sheet of RPOs.
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Jun 6, 2016 19:38
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meatpimp posted:Looks like both the TPMS and Keyless Entry goes though a PDM (Passenger Door Module), which is the module on the passenger door that has the lock/unlock and window control buttons. I've got a replacement coming and I hope that takes care of the problem. Do you need to program the new PDM to the car with a Tech2, or is it just plug and play?
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Jun 7, 2016 07:27
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some texas redneck posted:Do you need to program the new PDM to the car with a Tech2, or is it just plug and play? Should be plug and play. We'll see. So now we are in the part of the car acquisition process where I'm reasonably sure it's straight, never damaged, in reasonable condition. So, let's get to really cleaning this beast. From having GM vehicles before, I know that they like to pack poo poo behind the front wheels. Having cleaned out a huge amount of wet gunk from inside the passenger front wheewell, I took some pictures with the driver's side. Doesn't look too bad from here, a bit of crap at the bottom, but overall not too bad:  But... behind that black insulation is an open space that is packed. Pulling some fasteners from the wheelwell liner and pulling the liner back shows us:  That is dirt and silt and leaves and crap that initially plug the area for drainage, then builds up. If left to sit, especially in Ohio, that poo poo will start to rust everything it touches... from the inside. After pulling out the crap, we're left with:  I Simple Green'd the area afterwards and put the wheelwell back in place. Now it's good for a long time.
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Jun 7, 2016 19:27
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meatpimp posted:I got almost 18mpg over 540 miles on Sunday. All freeway, but through the West Virginia mountains, fresh from a maintenance-neglecting owner. That's less than 2 mpg below the Envoy with its puny 4.2l 6 cylinder and full maintenance (Envoy did just under 18mpg on the freeway when I first got it.) 18mpg!? I get 14mpg city & highway unless I'm cruising at 55mph. (6mpg if you can hear the aftermarket exhaust roaring) This is with fresh synthetic in the entire drivetrain, new plugs & wires & intake/exhaust mods. Must be the lift & tires.
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Jun 8, 2016 15:11
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Fuelslt1 posted:18mpg!? I get 14mpg city & highway unless I'm cruising at 55mph. (6mpg if you can hear the aftermarket exhaust roaring) I just did 150 miles in it today, clocked in right at 17.5mpg. I think that a more open intake and exhaust should only help that.  how many miles on yours?In other news: driving 150 miles in it with the tires properly aired and wheels mounted at proper torques, with half the drivetrain switched to synthetic made it even more smooth. I'm really liking it so far. It's a straight truck, like the Envoy, but all comfortable-like. It's a good combo.
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Jun 8, 2016 19:22
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meatpimp posted:I just did 150 miles in it today, clocked in right at 17.5mpg. I think that a more open intake and exhaust should only help that. 215k. Losing the factory rake & gaining 5" of clearance after a lift and heavy 33" I drive brand new Ford Platinum F-150's/Explorers/Etc. all day....still like driving my old Escalade a lot more. Fuelslt1 fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Jun 8, 2016 |
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Jun 8, 2016 20:05
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Black88GTA posted:These will change your life. Hands down the best tools for this I have ever used. Also works amazingly on heat fused vacuum / fuel / whatever lines in awkward places. I picked up a set of those tools. Christobevii3 posted:You grab the metal surround with needle noses and pull. A little heat and wd40 helps. Elmnt80 posted:Except the that engine should have a metal heat shield surrounding the bottom of the wire to protect it from the exhaust manifold. Gm says gently caress your fancy tool. Yep, I used those tools on the metal shields. I didn't know how they were on the wires until after I got one off. By the end, I was just saying "gently caress it" and pulling on the poo poo like a monkey. That resulted in some damage, but worth it.   some texas redneck posted:Do you need to program the new PDM to the car with a Tech2, or is it just plug and play? Motherfucker was just plug and play. I put the new PDM / window switch in and went through the same keyless entry programming I'd tried a dozen times before -- bingo, worked straight away. Then, on to TPMS... instead of getting no reading from any wheel, I got readings from all but the Left Rear. So again, the PDM / window switch does have a say in the TPMS system and it looks like it's working now.
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Jun 10, 2016 22:53
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Jesus loving Christ are you part chimp
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Jun 10, 2016 23:50
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iwentdoodie posted:Jesus loving Christ are you part chimp Yep. And covered with grease that makes me look even more furry. Eastern European descent, represent.  If I was gay, I'd be such an awesome bear. Edit: Or was that racist? meatpimp fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Jun 11, 2016 |
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Jun 11, 2016 00:09
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Not racist. You are just a hairy mother fucker. Like, I'm hairy. But you have chimp hands. Oh well, at least you have a ready made sweater vest. I'm also jealous of the escalade because I know how loving comfy it is.
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Jun 11, 2016 00:35
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iwentdoodie posted:But you have chimp hands. Gotcha. Yeah, my hands are meat paws, got them from my grandpa. They're too big to fit in a lot of small places you find in cars, so I just shove them in. They're used to bleeding. The Escalade is getting more comfy. Just catching up on the maintenance so far, especially greasing the 11 zerks in the steering and suspension, has made it a ton more smooth, and it wasn't bad to start.
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Jun 11, 2016 00:55
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meatpimp posted:. Yeah, my hands are meat paws, got them from my grandpa. Gotcha, you're an Igor.
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Jun 11, 2016 03:18
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Goddamn, I thought I was an ape.
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Jun 11, 2016 06:55
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Alright, enough of the fur worship. At this point, I'm two weeks in. The truck is mostly clean (at least superficially... it's a big truck). It still needs a good detailing in the engine compartment, door openings and a general wash underneath. The list: Transmission Fluid Change Rear Diff fluid Change Coolant Change Get Nav Disc (22846887 - version 10.4 (2012) 86271-70V736) -- I cannot find this anywhere, either through legitimate or illegitimate means for any kind of reasonable price. It's an old system and I guess the discs are getting rare.Get some kind of Intake Brake Pads and Rotors -- Pads on hand, rotors ordered soon. Front and Rear Cadillac Emblems to replace faded ones Fog lights -- either upgraded or replaced.
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Jun 11, 2016 12:14
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Looks like a nice truck meatchimp.
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Jun 11, 2016 13:03
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Larrymer posted:Looks like a nice truck meatchimp. Oh, you.  The list: Transmission Fluid Change Coolant Change Get Nav Disc (22846887 - version 10.4 (2012) 86271-70V736) -- I cannot find this anywhere, either through legitimate or illegitimate means for any kind of reasonable price. It's an old system and I guess the discs are getting rare.Brake Pads and Rotors -- Pads on hand, rotors ordered soon. Front and Rear Cadillac Emblems to replace faded ones Fog lights -- either upgraded or replaced. Rear Diff fluid changed yesterday. Very little material on the magnet. Stupid case design where you fill it to "x" level below the fill hole. I put in just over 5 pints of Mobil 1 and called it good. K&N intake ordered, hopefully here and installed tomorrow. Time for the Cadillac to stop hiding the sweet V8 induction noise.
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Jun 14, 2016 14:47
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Larrymer posted:Looks like a nice truck meatchimp. Name change needed.
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Jun 14, 2016 19:44
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Post a video once you get the intake installed. I've always thought these trucks sound great when revved out.
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Jun 14, 2016 21:00
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Well, the price isn't nice, but this claims to be the disc: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-GM-NAVIGATION-MAP-DISC-DVD-VERSION-10-4-GM-PART-22846887-/272126298046
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Jun 14, 2016 23:12
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