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You don't really want nav that's that old anyway. Don't pay for that poo poo.
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Jun 14, 2016 23:27
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Hansolio posted:Well, the price isn't nice, but this claims to be the disc: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-GM-NAVIGATION-MAP-DISC-DVD-VERSION-10-4-GM-PART-22846887-/272126298046 Buy this DVD, burn two copies, and walla free navigation. If you were a tech company you'd just say you're disrupting the market.
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Jun 15, 2016 02:02
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Larrymer posted:You don't really want nav that's that old anyway. Don't pay for that poo poo. Ya the company that does the updates is like a year behind so when they say 2016 nav disc! its really a 2015 and already out of date. With my CTS the only way to update it is to get a disc from the supplier and give them the vin to get a unlock code. Although the nav in the CTS isn't to bad its not as good as any half decent phone map app. I might have a nav disc from one of my DTS's you could have but I don't know if the GMT800 trucks used the same nav system. Its funny how around the mid 2000s Cadillac had like 3 different nav os's the 05+ STS used a really old system. The 2006+ DTS used one that is similar to the GMT900 and the 07-09 SRX and some Buicks. The -05 CTS used a really old os that I don't think was used in anything else.
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Jun 15, 2016 04:59
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meatpimp posted:Get Nav Disc (22846887 - version 10.4 (2012) 86271-70V736) -- I cannot find this anywhere, either through legitimate or illegitimate means for any kind of reasonable price. I went through pretty much the exact same process as you are now when I got mine a few years ago - including this part. Send me a flash drive / SD card (say 10GB minimum) and I can load it up with stuff you might find useful. Give me an email I can use to contact you if interested. I will say that the factory nav sucks pretty hard compared to any system sold today, but if you wanted to swap it out you'll need to add on some other stuff to retain full functionality (chimes and what not) since a lot of that runs through the OEM head unit. I can't remember offhand exactly what needs to be added, and what functionality is lost when going to aftermarket without the add-ons though.
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Jun 15, 2016 06:32
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Hansolio posted:Well, the price isn't nice, but this claims to be the disc: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-GM-NAVIGATION-MAP-DISC-DVD-VERSION-10-4-GM-PART-22846887-/272126298046 You could just buy it new from GM for a few bucks cheaper. http://gmnavdisc.navigation.com/pro.../en_US/GMNA/USD Too bad they stopped updating it 5 years ago.
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Jun 15, 2016 10:36
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Larrymer posted:You don't really want nav that's that old anyway. Don't pay for that poo poo. I don't really want it, but... I have a nice, new Android / Bluetooth Double-Din Nav with the Steering Wheel Control / OnStar / Chimes boxes that I pulled out of the Envoy, but... The Escalade has nice integration with the rear seat controls and XM. I'm leaning towards getting an Aux adapter so I can then add a Bluetooth adapter and call it good. Need a Nav disc to do that, though. Black88GTA posted:I went through pretty much the exact same process as you are now when I got mine a few years ago - including this part. Send me a flash drive / SD card (say 10GB minimum) and I can load it up with stuff you might find useful. Give me an email I can use to contact you if interested. Username at the mail system provided by Google. Thanks! KennyLoggins posted:I might have a nav disc from one of my DTS's you could have but I don't know if the GMT800 trucks used the same nav system. I bet it's the same if you find one... ironically, the disc I'm looking for is the same one I had for the '05 STS that I had for a month or so last year. I just cannot find the damned thing anywhere and I may have thrown it away, thinking I'd never use it again.  Previa_fun posted:Post a video once you get the intake installed. I've always thought these trucks sound great when revved out. I'd like to do a before-and-after, but I'm lazy and it's going to rain today. I'll at least take pictures.
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Jun 15, 2016 12:46
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:I bet it's the same if you find one... ironically, the disc I'm looking for is the same one I had for the '05 STS that I had for a month or so last year. I just cannot find the damned thing anywhere and I may have thrown it away, thinking I'd never use it again. I looked all over for it and I think I left it in the car along with the updated one I bought as well when I traded the car 2 years ago. And I think I left some CDs in the changer too. Oh well still have the wood steering wheel though that I swapped out. From what I could see I think the GMT800 Nav isn't the same as the 06+ DTS or 07+ GMT900.  This is what the nav I had looks like.
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Jun 16, 2016 06:34
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meatpimp posted:I have a nice, new Android / Bluetooth Double-Din Nav with the Steering Wheel Control / OnStar / Chimes boxes that I pulled out of the Envoy, but... The Escalade has nice integration with the rear seat controls and XM. I'm leaning towards getting an Aux adapter so I can then add a Bluetooth adapter and call it good. Need a Nav disc to do that, though. How attached are you to Onstar? There's a module that replaces the Onstar system to add Bluetooth support (phone calls and streaming audio).
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Jun 16, 2016 10:15
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KennyLoggins posted:
Thanks for looking, yep, that's the generation after mine. some texas redneck posted:How attached are you to Onstar? Too much $$$ for too little functionality. There's also a box for $130 that uses one of the XM feeds, I'd go that route, if I can get the loving nav to work. So I bought a thing today.   Edit: Although it was sold as an '02-06 Escalade grille, it isn't. It's an '07-14 Tahoe/Suburban/Avalanche. Lol. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Jun 22, 2016 |
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Jun 22, 2016 21:41
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meatpimp posted:Thanks for looking, yep, that's the generation after mine. Amazing.
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Jun 22, 2016 21:49
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Why?
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Jun 23, 2016 01:21
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1e5h9YSe_k
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Jun 23, 2016 15:31
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everdave posted:Why? Because it was poorly listed on Craigslist and I'll make money on it. 
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Jun 23, 2016 15:38
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everdave posted:Why? Why not. Escalades are the epitome of gaudiness and excess, may as well own it.
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Jun 23, 2016 15:39
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So I suck so far with no pics or video of the K&N FIPK2 install, but it's in there. The resonance chambers on the stock intake are unreasonably huge and make the engine bay much more open when they're gone. Very little difference in sound in normal driving, a cabin-filling resonance if you got just past part-throttle on takeoff, but nothing objectionable. Full throttle gives a nice induction howl. I can't attribute more power directly to the intake, but through the course of changing filters/fluids/plugs/gas/etc, it has gone from having a huge dead zone in the 1-2 shift to running the motor to a higher RPM before 1-2 shifting and it's overall noticeably quicker and stronger. I just got done changing the coolant... how a car can have 11 zerk fittings for the suspension and steering maintenance, yet no petcock for the radiator is loving beyond me.  I've got a set of Wagner coated rotors and Delco professional ceramic pads waiting to put on. I'm going to paint the calipers when it's disassembled, so since it'll already be on jack stands, I'm going to change the transmission fluid and filter, too. That'll be the end of fluid changes, since I'll have been through all of them at that point. Head unit has puked on every burned navigation disc I've tried, OEM one ordered, hopefully that works.
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Jun 28, 2016 18:53
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Genuinely interested in pics so get some up!
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Jun 28, 2016 21:08
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So is the AWD on these full time 50-50 split?
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Jun 29, 2016 00:38
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meatpimp posted:So I suck so far with no pics or video of the K&N FIPK2 install, but it's in there. The resonance chambers on the stock intake are unreasonably huge and make the engine bay much more open when they're gone. Very little difference in sound in normal driving, a cabin-filling resonance if you got just past part-throttle on takeoff, but nothing objectionable. Full throttle gives a nice induction howl. I can't attribute more power directly to the intake, but through the course of changing filters/fluids/plugs/gas/etc, it has gone from having a huge dead zone in the 1-2 shift to running the motor to a higher RPM before 1-2 shifting and it's overall noticeably quicker and stronger. Try hitting the tow/haul button on the shifter stalk for better shifts.
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Jun 29, 2016 15:02
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KennyLoggins posted:So is the AWD on these full time 50-50 split? 40 front/60 rear
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Jun 29, 2016 15:02
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 It's an old system and I guess the discs are getting rare.Fog lights -- either upgraded or replaced. Jesus hosed-up Christ. I want to inflict violences upon the GM engineer that mounted the shift cable bracket in a way such that the transmission pan is 99% free just from removing the 16 bolts that hold it on, yet the bracket blocks it. BUT, to get the pan to clear the bracket, you have to remove two T40 bolts that are damned-near inaccessible. So, you can remove the rearmost bolt and pivot the bracket out of the way... BUT there's still 1/4" if interference between the bracket and the pan. So, you can take the bolts off from the transmission mount and jack up the transfer case / transmission... BUT there's still a oval office's hair of interference. So, then you can drop the front loving driveshaft and FINALLY get the pan out. To replace, reverse the procedure. Picture of the cable, bracket doesn't really show here, but it's near the shiny part reflecting on the pan:  And a little further back, it looks like there should be enough clearance bending the bracket against the driveshaft, but there just isn't. : At least the pan and fluid looked good. Very little swarf for 97k miles:  A 1 hour job quickly turns into a 3 hour job from that bullshit. But, it's done. I took the brake pads and rotors off the list. I have nice new replacement parts, because when I got it the damned thing wouldn't stop without considerable force on the pedal. But, over time, it's gotten a lot grippier. I think the PO just had the pads completely glazed over and they are alright now. If anything changes, it's a quick and easy job. Front Emblem and factory Nav DVD should show up today, hopefully those are correct and work. Picture of the K&N FIPK2:  Edit: Got an original Nav DVD and it worked straight away. Strange, but I'm not going to argue. Now to get XM turned on on the head unit and sell the Android Double-Din with chime and onstar adapters. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Jul 1, 2016 |
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Jul 1, 2016 16:36
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Trip report: 300 miles, 18mpg, probably need a front suspension refresh. 90%+ of the bumps are well-dampened. 10% of then gently caress the truck's poo poo. Angled bumps seem to do it, feels like the front of the truck gets slammed into the side of the frame. I suspect control arm bushings. Big detailing news, though -- the truck has SERIOUS glass etching from hard water. I have thrown everything I know at it, from scrubbing bubbles to CLR to steel wool, you name it. Nothing has made even a little bit of a difference. It's tough to photograph, but here's a shot of the Left Rear window:  If you look at the area in the reflection at the bottom of the garage door you can see it -- look like normal water spots, except they are etched INTO the glass. I thought I was hosed and was prepared to live with it. Until I took a swing on McKee's 37 High Performance Glass Restorer http://www.autogeek.net/dp515.html I'll be damned if that stuff doesn't work. It absolutely removes the etching with a bit of elbow grease. Removes as in "it is no longer there and the glass looks pristine." I am surprised and happy. I've only gotten it to work with a hand pad and a lot of rubbing. I've tried a medium pad on a DA polisher and it really doesn't work. I know I could get it to work with more pressure/speed, but I don't want to get the glass too hot and crack it or any stupid poo poo like that, so I'll tackle the windows old school -- with my arm. Edit: I did two windows by hand and it was taking forever. I grabbed a firm pad from my dad and that worked straight away. Glass is fully clear, like new. No traces of the etching and I'm still surprised. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Jul 9, 2016 |
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Jul 8, 2016 13:11
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Small update -- front end definitely needs a refresh, but I'm thinking it's mostly control arm bushings. I may look into a temporary fix that I used on my '93 STS with hosed rear bushings, and that is to just inject some self-curing polyurethane into the bushings. I'll have to give that some more thought / research. I'm also on my way to getting a set of Winter wheels put together. Where I'm at, the new Michelins would be fine, but the chrome 20" wheels are just at the cusp of starting to corrode, just around the valve stems, but I know that once it starts, it's all downhill from there. So, I bought a like-new set of 18" wheels from an '11 Escalade:  I'm trying to buy a set of Toyo Open Country tires in a good Winter size off of cl, but we'll see how that goes. EDIT: Last on my "getting acquainted" list was fog lights. Stock replacement fog lights are $30/pair. I could stick some good bulbs in and be done. However, I'd like to put LEDs there. I tried a pair of 36W 7" light bars from Amazon, but they were in a flood pattern and really sucked in general. Are there any LED fog lights with a reasonable pattern and high light output at a reasonable price? I don't want to spend $250+ for PIAAs, but the sub-$50 seem to be crap, with little in between. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Jul 25, 2016 |
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Jul 25, 2016 18:14
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meatpimp posted:Are there any LED fog lights with a reasonable pattern and high light output at a reasonable price? No. It's similar to the "are there legal HID retrofits" question.
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Jul 26, 2016 06:00
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meatpimp posted:
I bought stock replacement fogs and they are worthless, literally as bright as a candle. Just ordered a couple of Made in China 6" LED light bars that I'm going to retrofit behind the factory fog lenses. I'll let you know if it's worth it.
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Jul 26, 2016 15:06
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Fog lights aren't supposed to be bright spots, they're supposed to be an even flood. They're for spotting the sides of the road and obstacles in fog. If you want bright spot-pattern DRIVING lights, then wire them to your high beams and have at it. Put a couple of massive light bars on, and look like a brotruck. https://smile.amazon.com/Auxbeam-Of...urved+light+bar One on the roof, one on top of the grille, and one under the grille ought to do it.
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Jul 26, 2016 15:12
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Fuelslt1 posted:I bought stock replacement fogs and they are worthless, literally as bright as a candle. Just ordered a couple of Made in China 6" LED light bars that I'm going to retrofit behind the factory fog lenses. Yeah, stock fogs are terrible. I had one lens fall out (thankfully in the driveway, so I could glue it back in), but I really don't want the stocks, since they are worthless. These are the lights I tried: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IZ9VAOI/ (and I know they weren't sold as fog pattern, I was going to have them tilted way down to get the ground close to the truck lit... the amount of light output itself just sucked) I have a nice CREE XM-L headlight that I use for biking. That one LED is almost as bright as some car's headlights. The light bars from Amazon use LEDs that are about 1/10th of the size of an XM-L and the light is super broad with absolutely no cutoff. That explains why so many dickheads running light bars stand out as glare factories -- the lights are pure crap and more for bro-looks than usable light output. sharkytm posted:Fog lights aren't supposed to be bright spots, they're supposed to be an even flood. They're for spotting the sides of the road and obstacles in fog. If you want bright spot-pattern DRIVING lights, then wire them to your high beams and have at it. Put a couple of massive light bars on, and look like a brotruck. I know what good fog lights are supposed to look like, as well as driving and flood lights. I've run many different PIAAs in the past, including 90 PRO XTs, and when I look at fog lights, I'm looking for a super-wide beam pattern with a razor-sharp cutoff. Once I get that sorted, I'd be open to some driving lights in place of the tow hooks in the front, but that's next-step stuff. In news today, I did make the deal on some 255-70-18 Toyo Open Country A/TII tires. Brand new, never mounted, mid-2015 manufacture date. These will be for Winter. I'm kinda anxious to see what a set of nice real A/T tires will do. I haven't had A/T tires since I had my CJ8... and those were crappy Generals. With AWD, a poo poo-ton of weight and these tires, this truck should be great in the snow. 
meatpimp fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Jul 26, 2016 |
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Jul 26, 2016 17:43
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Then buy Ridgid's DOT-legal fog pods. They'll have a razor sharp cutoff, and be a legit fog pattern. http://www.rigidindustries.com/led-lighting/50481 If you buy cheap Chinese LED bars, the optics are a joke (PVD-coated plastic hot-snotted onto the LED Stars), the LEDs are often crooked, and the output is poo poo. You get what you pay for. And PIAA's are poo poo
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Jul 26, 2016 23:18
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meatpimp posted:I don't want to spend $250+ for PIAAs, but the sub-$50 seem to be crap, with little in between. sharkytm posted:Then buy Ridgid's DOT-legal fog pods. They'll have a razor sharp cutoff, and be a legit fog pattern. Yeah, I've seen the Rigids, but again $$$, nothing between $30 crap and $250+? I'll look at conventional projector fogs and call it good for $90 or less...
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Jul 27, 2016 00:11
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meatpimp posted:Yeah, I've seen the Rigids, but again $$$, nothing between $30 crap and $250+? I'll look at conventional projector fogs and call it good for $90 or less... The old adage applies: You get what you pay for. If you want to flood an area with light, glare-be-damned, cheap is fine. Otherwise, real money needs to be spend on optics and on assembly that matches the design.
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Jul 27, 2016 16:15
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Back to brake chat with this thing. The pads that are on it did bed in, but it still takes way too much pedal pressure for way too little bite / stopping power. Fuelslt1 pointed out that the '07+ went with a larger front disc and dual piston calipers that bolt on, but require 18" wheels, so the stock spare won't fit. Well, I got 18" wheels and tires for Winter and the 20" set that's on there now. Even though I have a new set of pads and rotors for the front in the stock size, I'm not going to use them. Instead, I'll just put the upsized stuff on there to try to haul this hog down. If I need a spare on the front, I can just rotate a back wheel to the front and put the spare on back there.
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Sep 7, 2016 16:07
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meatpimp posted:If I need a spare on the front, I can just rotate a back wheel to the front and put the spare on back there. Isn't that what you're supposed to do no matter what anyway? I didn't think you wanted donuts on the front wheels, ever. I don't want to rely on it to turn or brake with that lovely little contact patch.
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Sep 7, 2016 20:13
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Larrymer posted:Isn't that what you're supposed to do no matter what anyway? I didn't think you wanted donuts on the front wheels, ever. I don't want to rely on it to turn or brake with that lovely little contact patch. It's a full-sized spare, so no issues there.
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Sep 7, 2016 20:46
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Is it one of those 16" steelies off the base silverado? I know thats what the avalanche and suburbans had as a spare, but not sure about the escalades.
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Sep 8, 2016 09:52
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Elmnt80 posted:Is it one of those 16" steelies off the base silverado? I know thats what the avalanche and suburbans had as a spare, but not sure about the escalades. Escalades come with a 24" chrome spinner as a spare.
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Sep 8, 2016 14:55
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Elmnt80 posted:Is it one of those 16" steelies off the base silverado? I know thats what the avalanche and suburbans had as a spare, but not sure about the escalades. Fuelslt1 posted:Escalades come with a 24" chrome spinner as a spare. drat, I got shafted. I've just got a 16" steel wheel with no spinner.
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Sep 8, 2016 17:44
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Fuelslt1 posted:Escalades come with a 24" chrome spinner as a spare. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l54crVprTfI&t=76s
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Sep 8, 2016 20:20
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meatpimp posted:drat, I got shafted. I've just got a 16" steel wheel with no spinner. Get the plastic hubcaps with the spinner built into it
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Sep 8, 2016 23:26
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So I've had this thing since the Spring and, other than the FIPK intake, I really haven't done poo poo to it, other than cleaning and maintenance. The hunt is on for a Corsa #14220 exhaust. Used runs about $5-600 if you can find one. New is about $850. It's a lot for a stupid cat-back, but I like the look of the Corsa tips and I remember seeing a development STS in the '90s at Nelson Ledges when the Cadillac engineers were testing some stuff... they made it very clear that Corsa has the inside line with GM engineering, and from all reports I've seen, it's a good fit on this truck with no droning. I'd really like to do a head-back header/y-pipe/cat-back straight out, but I really don't have a broken-head-bolt fight in me. My AI only goes so far these days.
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Oct 6, 2016 22:44
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Hi, I'm Seminal Flu and I polish turds. Current subject: 2000 Toyota Avalon. 161k miles. Previous owner advised that he bought it 35k miles ago after previous previous owner bought it from previous previous previous owner who lunched the motor with a timing belt snap. Supposedly, the motor runs great. The only bad part is that it won't start. Hopefully it's starter contacts, I've got a repair kit coming tomorrow and we'll see. In other news, it is absolutely as filthy and disgusting as my other purchases -- the Buick Rendezvous, the GMC Envoy, the front of this is dirtier because the previous owner was a SERIOUS smoker. I've had the ozone generator going for a while and it'll take care of it, but god drat, people are dirty pigs. It's going to need some detailing, too. Right front corner was a frequent visitor to the garage door trim:  I looked at it and figured it was mostly paint transfer. I was right:  Time to pull the starter and get working on the interior.
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Oct 18, 2016 20:18
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God drat, I love cars that are easy to work on. Since the last post in this thread, about 20 minutes ago, I looked at a youtube video to see where the starter bolts were, got my tools, took out the battery, and then pulled the starter. Starter is out, waiting for the rebuild kit tomorrow.  This thing has a major oil leak, looks like it's coming from way up top. I'm hoping it's valve cover gasket on the front bank, because it should be easy to change and it looks like that's what's leaking.
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Oct 18, 2016 20:43
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