Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Locked thread
Black88GTA
Oct 8, 2009
Grats on the purchase! Yours is quite a bit nicer than mine. Of course I paid like half of what you did, mine has closer to 190k on it, and is was a gigantic pit of deferred maintenance. But I got a sweet pinstripe, and found almost $5 whole dollars when I took my center console out :smugdog: There was also a rotten half of a chocolate bar, and a big blob of what looked like kids rubber glitter paint cemented into the rear carpet :barf: And an actual hole in the tailgate, which I put a sticker over because :effort: And the driver's door was (is) kind of falling off, the front fogs were broken, and, and, and
Behold:





Does your cupholder cover latch? If not, it's probably because the clip fell off and went in the console somewhere because someone pulled it up without depressing it first. Most people are able to fish out the clip and reattach it to fix, although a few unlucky people found the clip broken.
The spare tire elevator is a gigantic piece of poo poo design, and is pretty much guaranteed to be rusted shut. Check yours out, unstick it, lube it, etc in your driveway, rather than finding this out on the side of the road when you need it.
That haze in the top of the headlights is just that - inside. There are ways to clean it out, but I haven't bothered yet.
Does your park assist system work? I think the park assist sensors are NLA, but don't quote me on that. I was able to buy a new one a few years ago, but last I heard they were becoming scarce. It's pretty simple to troubleshoot and fix it...it lights up its own set of diag codes through the 3 front facing lights on the pass side D pillar. There are tutorials floating around on how to read it and put it into service mode.
The Stabilitrak / Ride Control system will drive you batshit. The front connectors are the most heinously designed pieces of poo poo I"ve ever seen.
The nav discs are...available :filez: but I'll leave it at that.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Black88GTA
Oct 8, 2009

meatpimp posted:

The park assist system... works? I haven't paid a lot of attention to it, but it did beep when I turned the car on and walked close to the bumper. I haven't heard it in normal use yet, but I don't know if I've been close enough to anything to trigger it.
When mine wasn't working right, IIRC both outer lights would illuminate, with the center one dark. I think that's how it indicates there's something wrong with it. So it did stuff, but didn't actually work right. It only works when you're in reverse, and will start to indicate within 5(?) feet of something.

quote:

For those of you that have Escalades (or any GM car or one of several other brands), run your VIN through compnine.com, it costs a couple bucks, but gives you an instant list of all the RPO codes your car/truck came with. It was invaluable in cutting through the bullshit of sellers as I was looking for this one. And this one was by far the most loaded one I looked at.

There's also a label in the glove box with all of the RPO codes in it, and a number of free online decoders. I would have liked to have been able to see what's what before I bought it though.

Alarbus posted:

Haha, oh god. My Dad was driving the family 2003 Suburban on a roadtrip from VT to SC, and near family in PA, had to hit the brakes hard, which promptly blew the rusted brake line. He managed to avoid any incident, and limped it to my Grandmother's place and had it towed to a shop.

They had to replace ALL of the line, since the lovely brine Vermont uses wrecked it all. And they couldn't get the spare tire down, so they routed that brake line under it, rather than over. :wtc:

After the road trip, he took it to a place in VT, and I'm fairly sure they got it off via torch.

:doh: How did I forget about this? I even had a dashcam running when my line popped:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ve6gqfIWq_A

I'm lucky that 18 wheeler moved left to take the entrance to the expressway, otherwise I'd have either been up the rear end of the SUV in front of me, or in his wheels. Plot twist - while the hardlines were horribly corroded, and had been patched multiple times, it was one of the flex lines connected to the MC that actually blew out.

e: In case this wasn't apparent, this wasn't a fluke thing - GMT400 / 800 series trucks are notorious for premature failure in brake lines, it's very common. Go over every inch of your brake lines, (especially the bundle behind the driver's side front wheel) even if the rest of the truck looks good. Chances are, you're fine (since this truck came from a no-salt area) but it only takes a few minutes to get a quick visual.

Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Jun 1, 2016

Black88GTA
Oct 8, 2009
Good job on cleaning the lights up. I'll get around to cleaning mine one day I will never get around to cleaning mine :(

meatpimp posted:

Dropped the spare yesterday and it came down like new. The steel spare wheel wasn't even rusted, I've never seen that before, even on other cars from the South. I cleaned it, aired it up (was at 15psi) and put it back.

The next car I buy is coming from the south, god drat. I still can't loving believe the condition of those brake lines :catstare:
FWIW, my spare came down and went up just fine...it was the lovely mechanism that holds the tire to the cable itself. It was rusted solid.

quote:

One of the upcoming jobs is plugs, perhaps plug wires.

I tried a couple of the easiest-to-get-to plugs (twisting/pulling) and those plug wires are fused on there. What's the best tool for boot pulling?

These will change your life. Hands down the best tools for this I have ever used. Also works amazingly on heat fused vacuum / fuel / whatever lines in awkward places.

Black88GTA
Oct 8, 2009

Elmnt80 posted:

Except the that engine should have a metal heat shield surrounding the bottom of the wire to protect it from the exhaust manifold. Gm says gently caress your fancy tool.

True, but the top of the stock plug boots extends far enough past it enough to get the pliers on. It did on mine, at least. I don't have any pics handy of when I did it, but I found this terrible pic (allegedly from an Avalanche, but same deal) that shows it:



e:

meatpimp posted:

Yeah, saying hard brake lines are a wear item is bullshit. GM cost cutting... like just now, I went to take out the cabin air filters to change them... only to find out that GM stopped putting cabin air filters in Escalades after 2002.

Missed this earlier, probably because I was in astonishment over the brake line pic on the same post. When they took out the cabin filters, GM just modified the existing airbox mold to be sealed up instead of having an access hole for the filters. As a result, it's actually pretty trivial* to cut the airbox with a dremel to add them back in. The screw boss for the access panel is still there, as are the molded in guides for the filters inside the box. There's a writeup on how to do so, but I don't have the link handy...you may have to brave the Cadillac forums to find it. Either way, it requires a trim screw, a piece of aluminum and some appropriate weatherstripping to cover up the hole. I had to buy a 2 foot length of aluminum when I did it, and you need exactly 1 foot for the job. I still have the remaining 12" section of mine left if you want it. Once the mod is done, you just use the filters that were used in the 2002s.

*Apparently there were two different types of airbox used in the 2002 - 2006 Escalade. One is easy to mod to take the filters, the other apparently is not. I got lucky and had the easy one, but you'd have to check yours out and make sure you've got the same one.

Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Jun 3, 2016

Black88GTA
Oct 8, 2009

meatpimp posted:

Still to come: Rear diff fluid, transmission fluid, coolant, brake fluid, probably brake pads and rotors -- basically, I'm going down the same road that I just did with the Envoy. Only this time, the damned thing jumps when you stomp on the gas.

If you want a little more stopping power and a lot less fade (especially important if you want to tow stuff), front rotors / calipers from an '07 bolt right up. The 07 rotors are 1" bigger in diameter. If you're doing pads / rotors anyway, might be a good time to swap out calipers too and take advantage of the upgrade. The downside is, the bigger brakes will no longer clear the stock spare tire.

Black88GTA
Oct 8, 2009

meatpimp posted:

Get Nav Disc (22846887 - version 10.4 (2012) 86271-70V736) -- I cannot find this anywhere, either through legitimate or illegitimate means for any kind of reasonable price. :( It's an old system and I guess the discs are getting rare.

I went through pretty much the exact same process as you are now when I got mine a few years ago - including this part. Send me a flash drive / SD card (say 10GB minimum) and I can load it up with stuff you might find useful. Give me an email I can use to contact you if interested.

I will say that the factory nav sucks pretty hard compared to any system sold today, but if you wanted to swap it out you'll need to add on some other stuff to retain full functionality (chimes and what not) since a lot of that runs through the OEM head unit. I can't remember offhand exactly what needs to be added, and what functionality is lost when going to aftermarket without the add-ons though.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Black88GTA
Oct 8, 2009

Hughmoris posted:

Reading this and the "Descaladed" thread has me thinking about buying one. Any advice to someone (not auto inclined) who is looking to purchase an Escalade? My budget would likely be around $15k, and I'm in Colorado. Any particular engines/generations/years to look for or stay away from?

For that kind of money you can get a newer truck, but for a 2nd gen (GMT800, 2002-2006), the 2002 has a lot of "one off" parts that were only used that model year, although there are a couple minor things with the 2002s that are arguably better (cabin filters, floor illumination IIRC, etc). GM took out cabin filters and changed a few other things for the 2003 - 2006s although it's potentially easy (depending on the type of airbox you have) to add them back into the later models. I did this on my 2003. TPMS was added in 2004. I think there are other things, but that's all I can remember offhand.

e: 2002-2003 models equipped with navigation had a non-touchscreen unit that used a joystick. 2004-2006 had a touchscreen unit, although incredibly low res and clunky by today's standards. Base CD / cassette deck was the same for all of them if I'm remembering right.

Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Feb 10, 2017

  • Locked thread