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Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

cerious posted:

So I shot a test roll doing exactly this out on a trip last weekend, wasn't actually that bad to get used to (turns out I can meter while the film isn't advanced too). I would extend the bellows, then meter, then advance the film, and then take the shot before closing the camera. I do see an improvement but strangely enough there's a few shots on the roll still that definitely have some center sharpness loss still. The affected area does seem to be smaller at least.

At this point I'm still confused why I still have film flatness issues from the center point. I do have a few pictures on the roll that are perfectly sharp corner to corner so I know there's a "right" way of doing it. I'm not sure what made those pictures any different though, but the next thing I'm thinking of trying is to open/close the bellows slower and more gently than before. And to immediately take the picture after winding the film, rather than just a few seconds after I decide I'm going to take it with the bellows extended.

This is Fuji peak performance. Honestly I love Fuji cameras but having to deal with that on what is still a $4,500 camera would make me sell it then by a Plaubel Makina 67 and $2000 worth of film.

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cerious
Aug 18, 2010

:dukedog:
Yeah I've had a few Fuji film cameras over the years and they've all been great to use, but nearly every one of them has had their own weird issues.

GS645S: shutter instantly jammed when I got it, had it repaired for that and then had it serviced again for a sticky rangefinder. I just use it for backpacking now since I don't really care if anything else happens to it.

GA645: Awesome camera but there were a few times in colder weather that it would struggle to power on. Never was able to reproduce it but I got spooked enough that I sold it. That was the definition of time bomb.

Natura S: This was also a time bomb but unfortunately I let it explode on me. I had used this point and shoot a ton but not too much recently, was taking some photos to get ready to list it when I realized that the flex cable connecting the back was starting to form a crack. Now only half the buttons on the back work, and only half the display works. The power & shutter buttons are on the main body so I'll be able to keep taking pictures when it all dies, but eventually I won't be able to turn off the flash, and I won't know how many shots I have left. It also likes to scratch my negatives on the roller near the bottom of the frame as of this past year, awesome!

G617: No issues yet somehow!

The GF670 is real nice when it's good. The meter is excellent, the sharpness is unreal, and the form factor is very convenient for travel. I'm sure that whenever I figure out this whole film flatness thing, it'll start crapping out on me for something else like battery drain or whatever.

cerious fucked around with this message at 15:40 on Sep 12, 2023

bobmarleysghost
Mar 7, 2006



I was curious about when I bought my GW670 iii, in 2015 from KEH as a BGN condition, but it was honestly pristine except for a slightly bent strap eyelet.

It hasn’t needed any CLA at all and it’s been my main MF cam since then.
Can’t recommend it enough.

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

I have a GW690II and find it to be amazing.

I tried to put together a GL690 kit with the 65/100/180 mm lenses and after two rolls it fell apart like a house of cards.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

I had a GW690II for a while and while it's a really nice camera, and I got some great photos out of it, rangefinders are not for me. Sticking with my TLRs and SLRs until I take another blow to the head and buy another camera I'll for sure bounce off after a few rolls.

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

I used to have a gw690 and a gsw690 and they were both great.

Wild EEPROM
Jul 29, 2011


oh, my, god. Becky, look at her bitrate.
I have owned a gw670ii and a gw690ii and they are good cameras

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.
I am not a Fuji medium format holder so I cannot comment.

aricoarena
Aug 7, 2006
citizenh8 bought me this account because he is a total qt.
I just replaced the bellows on my Fuji GS645 Pro. I did not think folding and gluing the fabric to the metal plates that hold it in place would be by far the most difficult part.

aricoarena fucked around with this message at 01:52 on Sep 13, 2023

frogbs
May 5, 2004
Well well well

bobmarleysghost posted:

I was curious about when I bought my GW670 iii, in 2015 from KEH as a BGN condition, but it was honestly pristine except for a slightly bent strap eyelet.

It hasn’t needed any CLA at all and it’s been my main MF cam since then.
Can’t recommend it enough.

Same, bought a GW690III from the KEH outlet on eBay in 2018 and it’s been going strong ever since.

TomR
Apr 1, 2003
I both own and operate a pirate ship.
I made a new box camera that can focus to infinity more easily than the other camera I made. This is 2 seconds 600mm at f/64, the paper is 600mm wide.


BigCamera-20230921-3 by Tom Rintjema, on Flickr

Viginti Septem
Jan 9, 2021

Oculus Noctuae
Holy moly, that's incredible.

I'd be interested to see what an even longer shutter time would do for that water. ND filter'd.

TomR
Apr 1, 2003
I both own and operate a pirate ship.
8 seconds at f/180, but with massive light leak


Light Leak-20230921-1 by Tom Rintjema, on Flickr

Google Butt
Oct 4, 2005

Xenology is an unnatural mixture of science fiction and formal logic. At its core is a flawed assumption...

that an alien race would be psychologically human.

For those that develop using jobo expert drums, are manually agitating or using a motorized base? I know about the beseler base which are about $100 on eBay, and I found this thing which looks like it's probably more powerful and it has some additional features.

On the fence about it because of the cost and I don't have my drum yet, so I haven't actually experienced manually agitating. I can't imagine it's a good time, though.
https://axle.photography/pages/cr1-instruction-manual

quote:

[Agitation Speeds]

The CR1 is programmed to spin asymmetrically, 4 seconds one way, and 3 seconds the other. This timing offset allows for more even development.

The RPM of your film tank varies based on its circumference. The smaller the tank, the faster it will spin. Correspondingly, the larger it is, the slower it will spin.

With the speed control dial at 6, the CR1 will rotate film tanks at a speed similar to that of a traditional rotary processor.

At this speed setting of 6, a 15XX style tank will rotate at approximately 75 RPM. This is a good starting point for C41 film and most black and white film stocks.

A speed setting of 7 can be used for more contrast, and this is recommended for flatter film stocks, or when you are pulling film.

A speed setting of 5 can be used for less contrast, and is a recommended for more contrasty film stocks, or when you are pushing film.

With a 15xx style tank, the CR1 maxes out at around 100RPM with the speed control dial turned the way up to 8.6. Strange, I know. Hopefully one day we’ll be able to get custom knobs made.. :)

The maximum speed setting is especially useful during the pre-rinse rem-jet removal phase of ECN-2 processing, as this super fast agitation mimics the water jets used in this process, and helps to remove rem-jet.

For film tanks with over 2L of chemistry, it is not recommended to go above a speed setting of 8 for prolonged periods of time (longer than 30 minutes).

Google Butt fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Sep 22, 2023

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

I use a Jobo 1504 on a Simma sine-wave roller because I wanted something more reproducible than manual agitation.

Viginti Septem
Jan 9, 2021

Oculus Noctuae
Jobo by hand :evilbuddy:

TomR
Apr 1, 2003
I both own and operate a pirate ship.

BigCamera-20230922-1 by Tom Rintjema, on Flickr

TomR
Apr 1, 2003
I both own and operate a pirate ship.
I managed to mostly take care of the light leaks.


BigCamera-20230923-3 by Tom Rintjema, on Flickr

Google Butt
Oct 4, 2005

Xenology is an unnatural mixture of science fiction and formal logic. At its core is a flawed assumption...

that an alien race would be psychologically human.


o.O how are the results, pretty consistent?

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

Baby bought its first 4x5 camera and it came with a heavily used Bogen 3047 tripod head. One of the axes requires a lot of force to properly lock, and in the process I always end up moving the camera, so it requires lots of locking/unlocking until I get it right. Is this something that can be easily fixed? Would a new Manfrotto 229 resolve this issue?

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

theHUNGERian posted:

Baby bought its first 4x5 camera and it came with a heavily used Bogen 3047 tripod head. One of the axes requires a lot of force to properly lock, and in the process I always end up moving the camera, so it requires lots of locking/unlocking until I get it right. Is this something that can be easily fixed? Would a new Manfrotto 229 resolve this issue?

I really like geared tripod heads for my work, and there's been a great deal on this Manfrotto one I keep on seeing on Amazon that I'd buy if I didn't already have the benro.

https://www.amazon.com.au/Manfrotto-MHXPRO-3WG-Precise-Geared-Three-Way/dp/B00T8REXY0/ref=sr_1_6

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

How worried should I be about the relatively small 200PL plate for a 4x5 camera (vs. a 030-14 plate)? But I do like the idea of a geared head.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

It says it can hold 4kg, while the Benro holds 6. If the camera is under those weights I think you'd be fine

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.
Geared head is life. I bought a Manfrotto 400 last year and it’s so nice to use, will never go back to a ball head for LF landscapes. It is big, heavy, and makes my CF legs hella unbalanced though.

There’s a guy local to me on Marketplace with a Majestic I want even though it allegedly weighs like 25 pounds, want to future proof for ULF.

Viginti Septem
Jan 9, 2021

Oculus Noctuae
Glass on the scanner at school is rough and I haven't gotten to mowing the grass with the heal brush yet but you get the idea. :D
I've done 8 frames so far with the Cambo 4x5. These are four of them. Scanning takes forever at 32000ppi 👀







ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013


This is nice.

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.
My scanner is ??? weeks away (untracked international surface mail, womp womp), I just chucked a big sheet of translucent white acrylic in with my ruby acrylic order to see if I can get some DSLR scans in the meantime.

Viginti Septem posted:

Glass on the scanner at school is rough and I haven't gotten to mowing the grass with the heal brush yet but you get the idea. :D
I've done 8 frames so far with the Cambo 4x5. These are four of them. Scanning takes forever at 32000ppi 👀









1200dpi is probably overkill, just saying.

Viginti Septem
Jan 9, 2021

Oculus Noctuae

Ethics_Gradient posted:

My scanner is ??? weeks away (untracked international surface mail, womp womp), I just chucked a big sheet of translucent white acrylic in with my ruby acrylic order to see if I can get some DSLR scans in the meantime.

1200dpi is probably overkill, just saying.

Well it was 3200 with 1000% zoom. The files are ridiculous.

maxmars
Nov 20, 2006

Ad bestias!
Is anybody else wasting Instax film on a 4x5 camera?
I've always wanted to mess with large format and I'm finding that combo to be a good starting point.
Curious about other people's experiences.

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.

maxmars posted:

Is anybody else wasting Instax film on a 4x5 camera?
I've always wanted to mess with large format and I'm finding that combo to be a good starting point.
Curious about other people's experiences.

Dating myself, but I got into LF in the waning days of FP-100C in 4x5 being readily available and having the instant feedback was great. I shot plenty of film too, but one of the reasons I moved away from 4x5 for a number of years was being cranky there was no semi-affordable instant film anymore.

I "solved" this problem by getting into wet plate.

Google Butt
Oct 4, 2005

Xenology is an unnatural mixture of science fiction and formal logic. At its core is a flawed assumption...

that an alien race would be psychologically human.

maxmars posted:

Is anybody else wasting Instax film on a 4x5 camera?
I've always wanted to mess with large format and I'm finding that combo to be a good starting point.
Curious about other people's experiences.

I have a lot of fun with my lomagraflok back on my chamonix fwiw

Blackhawk
Nov 15, 2004

maxmars posted:

Is anybody else wasting Instax film on a 4x5 camera?
I've always wanted to mess with large format and I'm finding that combo to be a good starting point.
Curious about other people's experiences.

I get the feeling that instant film on a LF camera is more useful for something like portrait or architectural photography etc. Basically anything where the subject fills a relatively large portion of the frame and detail and dynamic range aren't super critical to the output. For what I shoot (landscapes) I'd imagine the results would mostly be muddy looking trash (exactly the same as my negatives, just instantly).

Google Butt
Oct 4, 2005

Xenology is an unnatural mixture of science fiction and formal logic. At its core is a flawed assumption...

that an alien race would be psychologically human.

When I got my Instax back, I was still learning how to actually shoot large format and the instant feedback was really helpful. Just a little added benefit, aside from a pretty cool little picture. Also a nice thing you can gift someone if you're using a model for portraits.

ishikabibble
Jan 21, 2012

Google Butt posted:

When I got my Instax back, I was still learning how to actually shoot large format and the instant feedback was really helpful. Just a little added benefit, aside from a pretty cool little picture. Also a nice thing you can gift someone if you're using a model for portraits.

Yeah, this.

It's a lot of fun if you have something like a Graflex with a rangefinder and can compose without using the ground glass. Just go around at a party taking photos of friends looking like a 1930s press photographer and then passing out instant photos.

And the photos will turn out way better than any plastic lens Instax camera can produce. All instax film is weirdly high quality when Fuji staunchly refuses to make even a half decent camera for it.

Helen Highwater
Feb 19, 2014

And furthermore
Grimey Drawer
I was doing my first LF work in a product studio. So we had as many boxes of 8x10 polaroid film as we could eat. I miss that.

frumpykvetchbot
Feb 20, 2004

PROGRESSIVE SCAN
Upset Trowel








I managed to fix my ancient preproduction Phaseone P45+ digiback for V-mount which broke about a decade ago and I never got it repaired until now. It was just a smoked DC/DC converter which I could bypass with an auxiliary battery pack with its own converter, injecting power through the firewire port.

I went for a photo walk in the city and I liked. the results. I had almost forgotten how much I loved the Planar T* 80mm f/2.8. I also am glad I held onto my old Hasselblad 501cm. But I am getting old, and in the decade since I last used this camera, my vision has decayed a bit and I now think I need to find a pentaprism viewfinder for it with a diopter.

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

frumpykvetchbot posted:









I managed to fix my ancient preproduction Phaseone P45+ digiback for V-mount which broke about a decade ago and I never got it repaired until now. It was just a smoked DC/DC converter which I could bypass with an auxiliary battery pack with its own converter, injecting power through the firewire port.

I went for a photo walk in the city and I liked. the results. I had almost forgotten how much I loved the Planar T* 80mm f/2.8. I also am glad I held onto my old Hasselblad 501cm. But I am getting old, and in the decade since I last used this camera, my vision has decayed a bit and I now think I need to find a pentaprism viewfinder for it with a diopter.

The Hasselblad Chimney Finder is another option. It looks like complete rear end but it works wonderfully and it's dirt cheap too.

Wild EEPROM
Jul 29, 2011


oh, my, god. Becky, look at her bitrate.
Get the screen withthe split prism and then just use the magnifier to do focus. You can also get stronger magnifiers.

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

Yeah, the screen matters a big deal too. I have a 42218 (diagonal range finder in the center, microprisms just outside of the range finder) and I think it's great. The 42215 would perhaps be even better?

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frumpykvetchbot
Feb 20, 2004

PROGRESSIVE SCAN
Upset Trowel
Thanks for the tips.

Slim pickings at the downtown 2nd hand camera stores (We still have a few of those!)

I found a pretty good condition NC-2 for $50 with just cosmetic defects. I've ordered a split-prism focusing screen from an eBay seller, and a diopter for the NC-2. In hindsight I should maybe have hunted for the PM-5 since it has the flash shoe on top and I could use it with my godox wireless flash transmitter.

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