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ImplicitAssembler posted:Also, thanks to whoever it was who recommended the Macromax loupe. It works awesome. Glad to hear you like it! Also that you got one before the prices spiked. ImplicitAssembler posted:I converted my changing bag into a dark cloth and still find the ground glass very dark...granted this was indoors, but I was struggling to compose. (Yes, wide open). Ground glass is one of those things that looks really simple at first glance but can have quite a lot going into it. The quality of the glass itself matters, of course. On top of that, some ground glass will have a Fresnel built into help with your perceived brightness, and there are other manufacturing tricks people use to get them better. You can add a Fresnel if it bothers you (token ebay link - check your dimensions). There are a few companies that will offer better ground glass for any large-format camera you care to measure for them, but past a certain point (for example, Bill Maxwell's incredibly excellent screens can run you $500+ at the high end) you're better off just selling the camera and buying a Chamonix. There's supposedly a very old trick of waxing your ground glass to make it brighter (a very, very thin layer of paraffin rubbed into the frosted side of your glass), but I don't know exactly what's in your Intrepid or how well it would work.
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Aug 9, 2019 08:31
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ansel autisms posted:Loading in a tent is super easy and you'll regret not doing it the first time you fog a bunch of sheets because you didn't perfectly tape up every pinhole Has Harrison figured out the problem with their lining yet, or are they still long-term consumables? I remember for a few years there I was hearing about how if you didn't store their tents open their insides turned into gluey messes over time.
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Aug 20, 2019 20:44
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Then I went up to the mountains, got setup by a small lake I'd scouted a few weeks back and realized I'd forgotten my loupe! Consider chucking one of these foldy things into a side pocket on your camera bag and forgetting about it. They're terrible and un-fun next to a real loupe (especially next to the Macromax) but they'll get you where you need to go in a pinch.
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Aug 25, 2019 05:32
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For anyone who shoots E6 6x7, someone has one of the very excellent Mamiya Cabin projectors up on eBay. Right now it's under a hundred dollars with ~8 hours left, and there are a few in the $350-500 range if you miss out and have some money burning a hole in your pocket. Medium/large slides deserve to be projected; they're heartbreakingly beautiful when you get to see them as intended.
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Oct 5, 2019 17:19
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mAlfunkti0n posted:Someone had once told me about a company that rebuilds Kiev MF cameras but I can’t remember the name of the company. Anyone know what I’m talking about? That's almost certainly Arax.
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Feb 16, 2020 18:59
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theHUNGERian posted:"viewfinder vignetting" = "the viewfinder vignettes the film" OR "the image in the viewfinder has vignetting but the film does not have vignetting"? The latter.
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Apr 26, 2020 16:01
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CodfishCartographer posted:Another LF gear question! Anyone have recommendations for a relatively inexpensive spot meter? Preferably under $250 usd. I don't need flash metering or anything like that. I've got a small handheld sekonic that does great incident and reflective but no spot, so I can use that for now but would prefer to get a spot meter for LF. The only one I can find in that price range seems to be the Pentax Honeywell 1/21, but that takes some combination of 9v and mercury batteries that I'm not crazy on trying to make sure I get correct. Every once in a while it seems Sekonic L-508s go for as low as 250 on ebay which would be ideal, but if there's something that may be a bit easier to find in that price range I'm all ears. I think the Minolta Spotmeter F is pretty much exactly what you're looking for.
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Aug 20, 2020 05:47
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theHUNGERian posted:Any recommendations for a long lens support? I have a 350 mm lens for an RZ67, but unfortunately the lens didn't come with the standard support bracket, nor can I find one on ebay. I don't want to use the lens without the support bracket. Amazon has a few options in the $50 range. Are they any good or is the RRS worth every cent? Here's an original for £80 and shipping. I didn't know RRS made a lens bracket for the RZ, but don't give Joe Johnson money if you can avoid it.
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Aug 25, 2020 03:51
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theHUNGERian posted:One question: I used thedarkroom.com for developing/scanning, and they supplied jpgs. Is that normal? I was expecting tifs. Very, very few places are equipped to supply TIFF, even if you ask for it. Generally that's a premium and per-frame service.
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Sep 15, 2020 02:34
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Google Butt posted:Has anyone used a 6x9 slide in roll film back with a chamonix n2? The thickness of the backs vary a little between manufacturers (thus moving the film plane?), and I'm not sure if it's enough to make a difference when focusing. I don't know how your source measured and I can't speak to its accuracy, but here goes... Per ANSI spec IT3.108-1998, the standard depth of a 4x5 film holder is 5mm +/- .178mm, with minimum .30mm clearance for film. Thickness of 4x5 sheet film varies a little bit, but is generally right around 0.17mm-0.18mm, which would put you right up next to that 4.85mm number. That said, the 4.95mm should be "acceptably sharp" if that's what you're going for. There's a minimum .30mm depth for the film rail height in a sheet film holder, which means you've got .12mm (ish) worth of slop in the best case regardless. My optics math is pretty rusty, but a back-of-the-envelope estimate says that, if you're using a 150mm lens, working distance of 5 meters, 0.1mm movement means a critical focus shift of about 10cm, a touch under four inches. Your depth of field should cover unless you're shooting a 2.8 Xenotar wide open or something; if you're doing critical focus work you may want to get some good calipers and measure your camera from the contact surface to the ground glass. Based on your numbers, I would be a little skeptical of the >5mm depths at first glance, which strikes me as odd because Toyo generally makes pretty excellent gear. That might be a factor from slightly different designs and expectations? e: minor clarifications; I'm running late to an appointment Cassius Belli fucked around with this message at 17:41 on May 8, 2021 |
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May 8, 2021 17:22
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Why do I have the urge lately to put together some obscenely large ULF rig? What dead and careless gods do I pray to, to save me from my own worst impulses? I don't think I burned a single frame of film in any size between April 2020 and April 2021.
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Jun 11, 2021 02:15
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alkanphel posted:Yeah I haven't shot a single frame of film in 2 years but I still encourage you to build that ULF rig The really stupid thing is that I mostly do "people" photos. You get up to 600mm+, and at "people" ranges your depth of field is only going to be a few to maybe ten inches, even at f/64. e: This is to say, I'm not sure how well it works; ULF prints are jawdropping but the ultra-thin depth of field might make everything look overbokeh'd, like those pictures where someone bought a Noctilux and seems like they glued the aperture ring wide open? Cassius Belli fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Jun 11, 2021 |
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Jun 11, 2021 02:37
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bobmarleysghost posted:what problem are you trying to solve for that would require ulf gear? I had a whisky-induced (I think) dream of making ENORMOUS alt-process prints. I admit and agree that besides the "only even more so!" it's a ridiculously expensive upgrade relative to 8x10. And taking it places becomes a project unto itself - the old joke about nothing photogenic being more than 500 yards from the car sounds about right. I have hiked an 8x10 and all its accessories up a small mountain before but even I'm not crazy enough to lug anything bigger. bobmarleysghost posted:if you haven't shot a frame in 2 years i don't think buying more gear is going to fix the underlying issue. It's only been one year, because of the pandemic. Alkanphel's the one up to two years.  And because of the soul-crushing work-life balance, mostly driven by the pandemic (I do at least have an exit plan if it doesn't get better). Over that year I can count on my fingers the number of times I got to spend face-to-face social time with anyone, and probably have enough left over to measure myself a drink. I am picking the pieces back up, slowly; I shot most of a roll of 35mm in May, and I have some ideas for some medium/4x5 macro stuff later this month once I get some apartment chores done. It'll be a longer-term project; first I have to get my motions and rhythm back, you know?
Cassius Belli fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Jun 11, 2021 |
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Jun 11, 2021 04:09
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Paul MaudDib posted:You could go to a super tiny aperture (f/256?) and use flash. That’s how they’d do those life sized Polaroids. Yeah, it's definitely... possible. I just have to figure out whether I can get the kinds of pictures that I want out of the deal, and then whether the cost is something I'm willing to slam down on the negotiating table. For example, I like having a little sense of 'place' in my photos, even if it's only impressionistic. A white-walled studio is definitely the straightest line to making the big pictures happen, but the price is high. It might be that 8x10 is about as big as I can go and still get tick all the boxes. Dreams are hard to kill though.
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Jun 11, 2021 05:42
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nadav posted:That’s a loupe on the top left, but on the rare occasion that I’m carrying a 2nd lens, it’d go there. Film holders on the left. Dark cloth above the ICU, meter & filters in the front pocket. Hi Macromax buddy!
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Sep 28, 2021 17:56
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kreeningsons posted:I bought a Mamiya M converter a few years ago which I think should allow me to slap some sort of Mamiya film back on the goose, but I honestly lost track of this project and what film back I intended to buy. You need the back from a Mamiya Universal Press. The 6x9 back will most closely duplicate the shooting experience. There's a G adapter that lets you use RB67 backs, too. Also I know a source with a little bit of the Fujiroid to spare; drop me a PM if you really want and I may be able to hook you up with some at (vaguely) reasonable prices. Cassius Belli fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Nov 21, 2021 |
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Nov 21, 2021 01:40
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theHUNGERian posted:I see a lot of photos of LF lenses with handwritten labels indicating the f-stop. Why would the actual f-stop be different from the one indicated on the shutter/lens? How do people measure the actual f-stop? The F-stop is a ratio between aperture and focal length, so If a lens is moved to a donor shutter that used to hold a different-length lens, the old markings have nothing to do with the new lens, and handwriting a label is cheaper/easier/faster than getting a new one etched. Calculating the new ones is a relatively simple matter of measuring the aperture, either directly by taking the diameter, or by proxy with relative light transmission.
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Sep 11, 2023 02:19
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