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Feb 23, 2019 21:34
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 14:21 |
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 some e100 on 6x7
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Mar 21, 2020 20:22
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Nov 22, 2020 19:29
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theHUNGERian posted:^ Very nice! What film did you use? Top one is Ektar 100, bottom is Portra 400 for like a 2s-4s exposure after sunset. Photography bags are just stupidly expensive. I've been using a Shimoda Explore 30L for hiking, let me see if I can take pictures of setting up my bag with a bunch of poo poo inside of it when I get a minute to set everything up. Basically you're going to want to look for a backpack that has an internal camera unit. I used to use a normal backpack with a pouch that I would stuff my camera into and it was super annoying having to dig through the bag and pull it out, then put it back in. You definitely pay a premium for easy access to your camera but you'll be taking your camera out more.
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Nov 23, 2020 21:28
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Alright so here's how I've got my lenses + tripod for the heaviest possible pack I can come up with: The 67ii doesn't have any film backs but I've got 3 lenses in there, including a giant telephoto. I've also got a lightmeter and a blower tucked inside. The bag above the camera unit has things like spare batteries, film memo labels, a b/w color filter, and a cable release (usually this ends up in the same pocket as the blower too). I carry film on in a separate top pouch of the bag with all my other goodies (snacks/wallet/keys) since I only need to access it every now and then. You can see my tripod head poking out at the top, there's an entire side pocket along the side of the bag that I just stuff it into and then I strap it along the side of the pack so it's nice and secure. Also, it's very water resistant, I've never had water in any pouch the whole time I've used it so I've never bothered with a rain cover. It's small enough to fit into an overhead compartment if you want to use it for travelling. Before buying the bag I looked at multiple bags and their internal camera unit dimensions. Then I laid out all of my gear into a grid and measured them out to check it would fit inside, leaving a little space between components for the internal dividers. If you have the RZ67 with the WLF you probably won't have to worry about height, but if you are using the prism you might need something really deep.
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Nov 24, 2020 01:10
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VelociBacon posted:I have a pentax 67 and have used both the WLF and the metered prism and I have to say that for the way the camera works and holds (basically a big SLR) I think it's better with a metered prism/normal prism - other cameras like TLRs and hassleblads make more sense to me with a WLF. I've got a WLF too and it's fun every once in a while. It's a bit more of a pain since the prism is already in landscape orientation so trying to rotate to take portrait orientation pictures isn't very easy, unlike the RB/RZ where you just rotate the back or the 6x6 where it doesn't matter. However you can really nail focus with the magnifier, a bit better than the prisms, and you also get 100% coverage instead of 90% or so. But yeah I generally like shooting with the prism more since I'm doing stuff more on-the-go. It's just nice that it was only $100 to play around with a medium format WLF instead of having to buy a whole new camera.
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Nov 26, 2020 00:22
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Ethics_Gradient posted:If you're not in a hurry, Craigslist (or local equivalent) or FB marketplace, which is increasingly taking over local buy/sell sites. I am pretty sure my GT-X970 is toast from getting shipped without the scanning head locked (need to open it up and have one more crack at it, doesn't help that getting drivers is a nightmare) but I scored a 2450 on Marketplace for $30 last week. I suppose "high quality" is debateable there, but I've seen decent stuff come up before. Yeah agreed I got a v800 off Craigslist for like $450 with Silverfast. I see a handful pop up locally every now and then.
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May 8, 2021 16:33
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Maybe my monitor's off but those seem really magenta tinted to me
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Dec 14, 2021 04:38
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Yeah all of them, #5 in particular too. I know it's ektar doing its thing too though.
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Dec 14, 2021 06:09
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Was it underexposing on the edge on all frames? I know what you mean about the 1/1000 drag, I've seen that happen on a handful of shots but it's pretty rare. I mean at $400 isn't that just the price of another 67 body?
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Dec 16, 2021 20:25
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So I've started noticing some mild center sharpness issues on my Fuji GF670 (folding 6x7 camera), check out this picture I took two weekends ago on Ektar 100: Didn't really do much other than just set a quick crop and auto adjust lighting. If you look close at the logjam in the lake, near the center of the negative:  There's this weird center fuzziness right there, you can see the left and right sections of the logjam look pretty sharp but the center is just a blur. It's consistently there on rescan and on the negatives as well, though this logjam thing is the most clear example I've got of it. I've been noticing it for a couple of rolls now, typically on slower film stocks. I've been trying to decouple it from other factors by only advancing film while the bellows are extended after taking the shot, and by shooting as fast as possible (1/500) when handheld to minimize my own blur. As far as I can tell if I stick it on a tripod things look better (I have shots on this roll taken using a tripod that don't have center sharpness issues) and if I shoot fast film at 1/500, like Portra 400, then it doesn't seem to be there. I'm curious if anybody else using MF folders knows what's up. Last time I complained about this on the dorkroom discord, someone mentioned it might be a vacuum effect sucking up the center of the film from the back when I extend the bellows. I'm not really sure how that's still an issue if I'm advancing the film only while the bellows are extended... maybe it's sensitive enough that I need to do the advancing right before taking a shot instead of after, so that it's pulled taut right as I take the shot?
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Jul 26, 2023 01:01
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Alright I'll give that a shot with the half-roll I've got left in the camera. I guess it'll be annoying that I can't meter without having the film advanced, but it's not really a big deal.
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Jul 26, 2023 15:32
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Megabound posted:The GF670 has an issue with film flatness as they didn't design and channels to move air around the film as you extend the bellows. The correct order of operations to shoot it is to open the bellows, advance the film then take the shot. If you advance after you shoot then close the bellows then the suction can pull the film up from flat and cause that. So I shot a test roll doing exactly this out on a trip last weekend, wasn't actually that bad to get used to (turns out I can meter while the film isn't advanced too). I would extend the bellows, then meter, then advance the film, and then take the shot before closing the camera. I do see an improvement but strangely enough there's a few shots on the roll still that definitely have some center sharpness loss still. The affected area does seem to be smaller at least. At this point I'm still confused why I still have film flatness issues from the center point. I do have a few pictures on the roll that are perfectly sharp corner to corner so I know there's a "right" way of doing it. I'm not sure what made those pictures any different though, but the next thing I'm thinking of trying is to open/close the bellows slower and more gently than before. And to immediately take the picture after winding the film, rather than just a few seconds after I decide I'm going to take it with the bellows extended.
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Sep 12, 2023 00:33
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Yeah I've had a few Fuji film cameras over the years and they've all been great to use, but nearly every one of them has had their own weird issues. GS645S: shutter instantly jammed when I got it, had it repaired for that and then had it serviced again for a sticky rangefinder. I just use it for backpacking now since I don't really care if anything else happens to it. GA645: Awesome camera but there were a few times in colder weather that it would struggle to power on. Never was able to reproduce it but I got spooked enough that I sold it. That was the definition of time bomb. Natura S: This was also a time bomb but unfortunately I let it explode on me. I had used this point and shoot a ton but not too much recently, was taking some photos to get ready to list it when I realized that the flex cable connecting the back was starting to form a crack. Now only half the buttons on the back work, and only half the display works. The power & shutter buttons are on the main body so I'll be able to keep taking pictures when it all dies, but eventually I won't be able to turn off the flash, and I won't know how many shots I have left. It also likes to scratch my negatives on the roller near the bottom of the frame as of this past year, awesome! G617: No issues yet somehow! The GF670 is real nice when it's good. The meter is excellent, the sharpness is unreal, and the form factor is very convenient for travel. I'm sure that whenever I figure out this whole film flatness thing, it'll start crapping out on me for something else like battery drain or whatever. cerious fucked around with this message at 15:40 on Sep 12, 2023 |
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Sep 12, 2023 01:40
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It's no GF670, but I've been pretty happy with my GS645S over the past year. It's so small but it's got a great lens (except for the soft-ish corners and the moderate vignette at f4/5.6). I've been taking it on a few trips here and there and I'm probably going to up the usage this year on some more backcountry trips.      
cerious fucked around with this message at 05:56 on Apr 28, 2024 |
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Apr 28, 2024 05:52
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 14:21 |
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rufius posted:They’re all great photos, but that last one is my favorite by far. Delta 100! I'm definitely going to use it some more this year, it stood up quite nicely to both overcast and harsh daylight scenes. The lack of grain is very nice for 35mm and 645. The slow speed can be a little limiting in the backcountry though, so I end up being a little careless with it as the day goes long and I try to get it out for a faster film. 
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Apr 30, 2024 05:37
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