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Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

I just got my first MF camera, a Kiev 60, and got my test roll back.

I loaded the film incorrectly the first time and, true to its nature, it ate half the roll, but other than that user error it seems to be functioning correctly.



I've already put another 2 rolls through it that I'm very excited about getting developed.

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Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

It's a shame about the light leak, but I'm continuing to enjoy shooting on the Kiev 60. This is Portra 160.



Megabound fucked around with this message at 07:44 on Jun 18, 2018

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Thanks for the colour balance tip, I'm still new to editing. If it doesn't improve with tape I'll see what I can find out about sealing up the shutter, or buy a Pentacon Six body.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

SMERSH Mouth posted:

Nice. Still shooting portra 400 on the Kiev? The colors seem a little toned-down compared to the scenic images you had posted before.

Thanks, that's Fuji Pro 400H

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

VelociBacon posted:

I think a cheap lovely plastic 3d printed handle on the 67 is nearly sacrilegious and certainly antethetical to the overall presence of that specific camera.

It's a tool to use. There's nothing wrong with making something more usable with the tools you've got for a lot less money.

In short, :jerkbag:

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012



Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

I love my Kiev 60, even with all its little issues. Want to get an Arax or my Kiev serviced.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Sauer posted:

Gevorg is fully repairing and upgrading the Kiev I sent him for only a hundo. It will effectively be a metal finish Arax 60 when he is done with it.

Dang that's cheap, I'll need to get that done.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

That is so dope.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Still need to get the Kiev serviced



Megabound
Oct 20, 2012


This is dope.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

All this talk about movements got me wanting to try it out so I've picked up a Horseman VH. I wanted something I could scan myself and it shoots 120 6x9 so I won't need to get a new scanner.. Really excited to take it out tomorrow and get acquainted.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Paul MaudDib posted:

mostly intellectual curiosity, the "if I bought a nice lens set what would be the best way to protect it so it didn't get trashed" thing.

Lens caps when not in use and not dropping your camera has always worked for me.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Having stuff intentionally cut off as part of a aesthetic is fine and good, not checking your corners and shifting the camera mere a couple of degrees, or taking a single step forward or backward is bad.

Comparing a stylistic choice to poor planning is also bad.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012





Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

GreaseGunner posted:

Some photos taken with my GW690III in western Kansas.




I really like this, but the darker bits of ground seem a touch magenta.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

SMERSH Mouth posted:

You're doing god's work with that Horseman, Megabound. (That is what you're still using, isn't it?)





Thanks man, yeah, still lugging that gear everywhere.

That second one is dope. Big mood from those oranges.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Here's a diptych. I'm searching for a series to shoot and this might be a contender.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

There's a number of things to consider. First for me was shutter system, leaf or focal plane. With leaf you gain flash-sync at all speeds, and no vibration from shutter slap but may loose some max shutter speed.

After that would be exposure size, with the Hassleblad I think you'd be limited to 6x6, which is a fun format that I really enjoy. The other major formats are 6x4.5, 6x6, 6x7 and 6x9 which will get you around 16, 12, 10 and 8 exposures per roll respectively. Some systems have multiple sized backs, some you're limited to one size.

After making those 2 decisions you'll have narrowed down the field considerable and can look at body format.
TLRs, those small rectangular guys with 2 lenses our front, shoot 6x6 and have leaf shutters, and depending on the age can be limited in shutter speeds. A common standout being the Mamiya C330, which tops out at 1/500th and has interchangeable lenses. Usually no built in light metre.

SLRs come in the Hassleblad box with accessories style and a the style you'll be most familiar with. They tend to be bulkier than TLRs but have a variety of film backs and viewfinders available. They also vary in features wildly, some with built in light metres, some with metres depending on accessories, with pretty much every format under the sun available to them. Common brands to look for are Hassleblad, Mamiya and Bronica. Kiev also exist, but with all Russian cameras every one you buy is a dice roll. I loved my Kiev 60 and I know Helen will go to bat for their Arax, which is a quality tested Kiev you can still buy today. AFAIK Hassleblads all use leaf shutters but I don't shoot them so I could be wrong.

After that you've got Rangefinders, usually a lot more portable and very capable but without the ability to switch lenses. Fuji, Paubinel and Mamiya are your go tos in that range and they also come in every format under the sun.

Lastly, and what I shoot most these days, are view cameras. Those dudes that you'll need to cart a blanket around to shoot with. There are dedicated medium format ones and if you want to get into using things like lens movements they're the way to go. You can also get medium format backs for large format view cameras. I use a Topcon Horseman VH and really enjoy it.

For the price of that Hassleblad body and kit you could have any of the above ready to shoot.

Megabound fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Apr 26, 2020

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

From that criteria my choice would be a Mamiya RB67. It's the fully mechanical version of the RZ which uses electronic leaf shutters, and has a metered prism available for it if you're not shooting waist level.

67 is good and would be my choice because you can always crop down to 66 if you want to. I've not met a medium format camera with inaccurate Infinity stops.

I've had no issue using a separate meter during the blue hour, I have an old Minolta Auto Meter III and it's been very reliable.

Negative quality isn't a thing, with colour it's a standardised process called C41 with specific times and temperatures, black and white allows for artistic expression in development with chemical choice, agitation technique, dilution and timings. Most places will charge more for B&W development and use a middle of the road process that'll produce good results.

Print quality and size is all off the back of scan quality. I'm not very well versed in printing but I recently got my own stuff done up at 20" X 30" (50 X 70cm) off the back of my own scans using a mid-range scanner, an Epson V600, and was very happy with the output.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Megabound posted:

From that criteria my choice would be a Mamiya RB67. It's the fully mechanical version of the RZ which uses electronic leaf shutters, and has a metered prism available for it if you're not shooting waist level.

67 is good and would be my choice because you can always crop down to 66 if you want to. If someone held a gun to my head and said I could only shoot one size for the rest of my life it'd be 67.

I've not met a medium format camera with inaccurate Infinity stops, other than when I set my own stops for a new lens on mine.

I've had no issue using a separate meter during the blue hour, I have an old Minolta Auto Meter III and it's been very reliable.

Negative quality isn't a thing, with colour it's a standardised process called C41 with specific times and temperatures, black and white allows for artistic expression in development with chemical choice, agitation technique, dilution and timings. Most places will charge more for B&W development and use a middle of the road process that'll produce good results.

Print quality and size is all off the back of scan quality. I'm not very well versed in printing but I recently got my own stuff done up at 20" X 30" (50 X 70cm) off the back of my own scans using a mid-range scanner, an Epson V600, and was very happy with the output.


Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

SMERSH Mouth posted:

I like the idea of a Mamiya Press Super 23. I like that it’s fully mechanical with no circuits or solenoids to fail. I like the rangefinder with adjustable framelines for 100-150-250mm and automatic parallax compensation. I like the 6x9 format. Setting it apart from the early Fuji 690 ILC’s, I like the cheap & abundant lenses and ability to change backs & formats. The back having (very limited) movements is intriguing as well...

I've not used a Mamiya Press, but that's also Horseman VH-R money and the range of lenses you can get on one of those is only limited to those that use a copal 0 or 1. It's got parallax compensation, lines from 65 up to 180mm and the lines rotate for portrait as you rotate the back for portrait shots. Size looks similar, and you'd get a full range of front movements along with some back tilt.

I only use a VH, as I have no desire to use a ranngefiner, but from a build quality standpoint it's real good.

Megabound fucked around with this message at 11:04 on May 18, 2020

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Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

SMERSH Mouth posted:

VH Unknowns:
How easy is it to stow and go, and set back up? Do you have to detach the lens before collapsing the bellows and closing it up?

There is a rangefinder version, but is it at all practical for handheld use? I don’t mind having to grip a handle and a shutter release in the same hand, but will I be able to do everything else needed (focus, set aperture, advance film) with the other? Even if so, will it be floppy and unbalanced?

I don’t know much about the lens versions. Are there newer ones with better coatings, like the Takumar - SMC Pentax divide in the P67 system?

How bright and usable is the focusing screen outdoors? Does the small built-in hood do enough in most situations?

I can clear up some of this.

Stow and Go: I never remove the quick release from mine so setup takes a minute or so. Lenses do not fit in the body but attaching them is not a chore.

Rangefinder mode: The camera is very solid, the bed locks into place firmly and you won't need to worry about slop. Focusing knobs, shutter, apeture are all up the front with film advance at the back. You'd still need to look at the lens to set yourself up for the final shot, and it will be a slower camera to use than your Pentax.

Lenses: Horseman did a lot of variants with different names but the later lenses have better coatings, their last range was Super ER. There's some info available out on the internet in regards to all the different types. Otherwise you can use Fujinon-W lenses with them and they're fantastic. Keep in mind you're not limited to Horseman lenses at all, just what can fit on a horseman board, Copal 1 or smaller.

Focusing Screen: Mine came with a Fresnel lens so it's very bright and usable. The little hood is OK for getting setup but I always use a dark cloth and focusing loupe for final focus.

Front controls with focus knobs at front of bed, that's a Super ER lens, they have that barrel style cable release:



Back with film advance.



Full kit in my backpack, this is camera, lenses, 3 backs, light metre, fine focus loupe, dark cloth, cable release and spare film. Beer for scale.

Megabound fucked around with this message at 22:14 on May 27, 2020

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