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Pondex posted:Yeah, I figured you could do something like that manually. A school I used to teach at had an ancient Jobo-machine that worked like that. Probably the last of its kind in northern europe. Jobo still makes the machines - http://www.jobo-usa.com/jobo-analog-products/jobo-cpp3-processor For manual rotation, yes, you'd be rolling it continually on a roller base like this:  The arms that hold the wheels pop out for different positions for different size tanks (it's set up for 3xxx Expert tanks in the picture). On that note, I was never able to completely avoid development artifacts with the Jobo 2509n reels, with or without the paddles. I switched to using a 3010 tank for 4x5 and I've never been happier.
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Feb 4, 2020 22:04
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Pondex posted:What kind of artifacts are those? I used the 2509n-model (I think) and I had a bit of scratching on one sheet. I don't have any examples handy, but I'd sometimes get surge/flow marks on the edges. Usually only visible if there were large areas with even tones, but enough to dissuade me from continuing to use the 2509n.
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Feb 4, 2020 22:59
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Helen Highwater posted:Do you mean the tank is not full, but the sheets continually dip into and rotate through a pool of chemistry at the bottom? Yes, that's roughly it. Development times decrease (for me, using motorized rotation, about 15%) because of the constant agitation. Here's what it looks like with an Expert drum that has cylinders for each sheet or two sheets - the cylinders are all connected. https://youtu.be/ZCUSWwse1M4
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Feb 5, 2020 18:14
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What's your longest lens right now? I love my Nikkor-M 300mm f/9. It's the longest lens in Copal 1 my Chamonix 045N-2 will focus at inside-the-room focus distances, and weighs only 270g.
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Feb 9, 2020 05:26
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I've had my Chamonix for 8 years and taken thousands of photos with it and the only thing I've had to do is adjust the screws on the front standard tilt detents. It's been blown over twice and it's totally fine.
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May 9, 2020 21:34
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King of Bees posted:Just got a "Schneider 135mm f5.6 235mm f11 Symmar in Synchro-Compur shutter" and a 6.8 90mm from an auction and I'm ready to take the plunge. What's the best next steps? Not looking to go all out or on the cheap. Almost all of my shooting is MF these days so I'm excited to bump up for epicly lame but cool to me landscapes with 80 pounds of gear. Do you have a camera yet? What kind of photography do you do?
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Jun 10, 2020 19:11
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Just repeating that I still think my Intrepid was worth the money and weight saving, but they're a lovely company and any buyer should be aware of that. Just curious: have you ever used a large format field camera that isn't an Intrepid?
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Jun 11, 2020 18:59
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CodfishCartographer posted:gently caress, the n2 is sold out For what it's worth, you don't have to use the extra movements on the 45F-2, so it's really a matter of whether you want to spend $200 extra to have the camera sooner. ImplicitAssembler posted:No, I have not and while I have no doubt that the Chamonix is much nicer to use, I don't think it would make my pictures any better. Sure it would - I remember the shot you posted of the alleyway that had some real wacky tilt. Don't underestimate how much of a difference something really simple and basic like having zeroing marks/detents makes.
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Jun 11, 2020 23:15
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Website says they'll be back in "4-6 months" but who knows when that was initially posted. I'll just have to keep my eyes on there I suppose. I'm not a huge fan of super wide-angle, and while I would like to take advantage of movements and such I dunno if I'd really need the flexibility provided by the 45F-2, I doubt I'd be able to take full advantage of it.
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King of Bees posted:Looks like I need to save up some cash for when the chamonix comes back on line. So getting an old wista n or something for a couple hundred is not a good idea? There's tons of them from japan on ebay. A Wista 45N is a perfectly decent choice, with some relatively minor limitations: - Base tilt rather than axis tilt on the front standard means more tilt/focus/tilt/focus iterations - axis tilt like on the Chamonix means if you zero out rise/fall, changing tilt won't change the focus distance at the center of the frame - No front swing or fall movements - 5 pounds is heavier than most other field cameras - 300mm maximum bellows draw means a 240mm lens is probably about the longest you can use and still focus at distances you'd use to photograph people
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Jun 12, 2020 01:42
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I've used a 65mm on my Chamonix a number of times. Using the rearmost position for the front standard and with zeroed rise/fall, the bed appears in the frame in portrait orientation but not in landscape. The problem disappears if you use the second rearmost position for the front standard. Yes, you have to move the rear standard forward. You won't have much image circle for movements but the standard "universal" bellows won't be a problem in this regard.
MrBlandAverage fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Jun 17, 2020 |
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Jun 17, 2020 19:27
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eggsovereasy posted:You just kind of figure it out over time. I use the hole closest to the rear standard for my 90mm, second closest for my 135mm and the one furthest away for my 210mm. That said, I'm shooting at or near infinity all the time so I don't rack it out very far, so your YMMV. Yep, this. IIRC the holes are 30mm apart, so they go 90/120/150/180/210 with the rear standard flush with the back of the bed. I like to keep the rear standard a few mm forward of that.
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Aug 22, 2020 19:18
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theHUNGERian posted:I have read favorable reviews of the Da Yi S-IIA which can shoot 6x12, 6x14, and 6x17. While not cheap, it is more affordable than the Fuji GX617. Suppose I wanted to use a 300 mm f/9 Nikkor-M with this camera, I understand that I would need a lens cone. But how would I focus? Do I also need a bellows or a helicoid? I am assuming I would have to make my own hyperfocal scale? You buy what they call a "lens cone" for each lens, which puts the lens at the appropriate distance from the film and which appears to come with a helicoid.
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Dec 28, 2020 00:15
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Megabound posted:Might be interesting to explore for really long exposures but I'm usually not down for waiting for 30 minutes for a 2 minute calculated. This is why I use Acros for my pinhole photos! No reciprocity failure up to 2 minutes metered, 1/2 stop from there to 1000 seconds.
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Apr 11, 2021 05:57
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theHUNGERian posted:Hey MF crew, How many times has this happened? Do you lock your shutter button between shots? I had something like this happen when I accidentally bumped the lens into T mode and hadn't locked the shutter button.
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Apr 21, 2021 21:16
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theHUNGERian posted:This has happened four times now, and each time a car trip was involved (on the cushioned passenger seat). I turn the camera off immediately after taking a shot, before advancing to the next frame. And the camera was off as I installed the lens (and the shutter was open) and it remained off during the trip to the location (where, upon arriving, I realized that the shutter had closed). There is literally no way I could accidentally put the lens into T mode as that would require two very precise knocks. Accidentally switching out of T mode? Sure, that could happen. Unless the 210 APO has some extra mechanisms the other lenses don't - I don't have any direct experience of that specific lens - it's easier than you think to actuate the T switch. It doesn't take very much force at all to engage the T button lock; in my case it was a surface pressing against the switch just enough and then the lens moving. I don't know for sure that's what happened to you, but it's the kind of thing I can definitely imagine happening if the T switch is touching a car seat. What does "off" mean? I'm asking which position the release button collar was in - it could be, per the manual, "normal operation" (white dot on collar aligned with white dot on collar stop lever) or "locked" (white dot on collar aligned with red dot on body) or "emergency shutter operation" (white dot on collar aligned with orange dot on body).
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Apr 22, 2021 17:48
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Google Butt posted:Has anyone used a 6x9 slide in roll film back with a chamonix n2? The thickness of the backs vary a little between manufacturers (thus moving the film plane?), and I'm not sure if it's enough to make a difference when focusing. I have a Chamonix 045N-2 and both Horseman and Sinar Zoom backs and I have not noticed the 0.1mm difference in practical use. I don't use them for portrait distances as in Yond Cassius' calculation, FWIW. I'm guessing that you're not doing critical focus work with a Chamonix and rollfilm backs.
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May 9, 2021 19:11
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Google Butt posted:Nah I'm not, just wasn't sure if it was something to consider. Any thoughts on those two backs? I got the Sinar Zoom to do 6x12 and because I got a deal on it, but it's pretty fiddly. The Horseman I have is 6x7, and it's simple and dead reliable. The fact that you can't just slide it in discourages its use for some subjects, though.
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May 10, 2021 01:58
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Foma is a lesson in false economy.
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May 15, 2021 18:46
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Ethics_Gradient posted:On the lens front, I picked up a Schneider Componon 180mm f/5.6 (5x7 enlarging lens) since it was available locally and not too expensive. I think mounting it is gonna be a challenge though - threads seem to be 58-59mm and weight of it may make an epoxy-based solution (was originally gonna epoxy a same-sized filter to a lens board to mount it) precarious. Are you using a Packard shutter or just doing long exposures?
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Jun 2, 2021 19:39
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Google Butt posted:Is anyone rocking a 75mm on 4x5? Curious how often you use it I have a 65mm and it gets used about once every other year. My 90mm is far more useful.
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Sep 27, 2021 19:58
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ImplicitAssembler posted:A Chamonix would be nice, but it wont take nicer pictures than the Intrepid anyway. It's probably quicker to set up, though, with better indexes. A camera with zero markings/detents will make it much, much easier to avoid unintentional movements, which is the main way I've seen pictures with the Intrepid not be as nice. SMERSH Mouth posted:Is an intrepid really any better than a crown or speed graphic? At least the graflex cameras have metal at all the important load-bearing points. Or are the new intrepids better than they used to be? The problem with Graphics is that they're all a minimum of 49 years old, so in buying one you're either making a commitment to have to fix/replace wear items (e.g. bellows) or taking a gamble on their having been fixed/replaced already. Their movements are also significantly more limited than the Intrepid or Chamonix. Neither of these things are issues for everybody.
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Jun 18, 2022 23:58
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luchadornado posted:Any advice on a first lens? I've shot a lot at ~45deg field of view and I want something a little tighter to start. I'm guessing my options are 150 (42deg) or 210 (30deg). They're mostly roughly equivalent except that the average age of the Nikkors is a little younger.
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Jun 19, 2022 04:05
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I have a Zero Image 4x5 75D. It's f/138 at 25mm, f/176 at 50mm, and f/216.5 at 75mm. I've used it almost exclusively at 75mm, which is already quite wide for 4x5. These are all photos of gravestones, taken with the camera at 75mm about 12-18" away from the subject. I made a table of subject distance to field of view to help me compose.      
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Sep 28, 2022 17:43
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VelociBacon posted:Legit that looks like a graveyard for people named Derrick? More like Viktor, Roman, and Vladimir.
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Sep 29, 2022 20:19
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Google Butt posted:You guys think the Chamonix reflex viewer is worth the $330? Never used a reflex before so I'm a little unsure about that. No. If you decide otherwise, good luck with critical focus.
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Apr 23, 2023 20:57
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big black turnout posted:Can someone point me to a resource/explain to me how view camera/shutter/lens compatibility works? Sounds like you've mostly got it. Lenses are (were) made with a specific size shutter in mind, and the aperture scale printed on a shutter that came with a lens in it would be made for that lens. You can switch shutters between the same type (i.e. you could switch a lens in Copal #1 only to another Copal #1) but you would want to switch the aperture scale over to accurately reflect the lens that's now in the shutter, which is something a company like SK Grimes can do - or you can make a paper copy and tape it to the new shutter.
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May 4, 2023 00:48
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