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This owns, that truck owns, you own.
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Jul 31, 2016 20:52
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So I decided to pull apart the front brakes today to get an idea of what I am dealing with. The brakes seem to be about 90% not working or when they do they stick. This is what they look like. The wheel cylinder is adjustable on each side which is what those spikey covers are. Underneath the covers is a piston and behind that a spring and two rubber gaskets to hold the fluid. On both sides the Pistons were completely froze. So I pulled them out and cleaned all the crud off. After re-assembling them they appear to at least sort of work now. However the master cylinder is leaking bad so instead of rebuilding it I am going to get a new one. As getting to it and removing it is its own nightmare. To give you an idea of where it is this is what it looks like from under the car.  It also has some nonsensical woodruff key that is near impossible to get out. I will try and actually take pictures of that since it is going to be full of heartache for sure.
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Aug 2, 2016 22:42
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Be careful when working on those brakes. There's a most certainly asbestos dust inside the.
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Aug 2, 2016 22:51
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ExplodingSims posted:Be careful when working on those brakes. There's a most certainly asbestos dust inside the. A couple of things about that. These are not original pads and were most likely replaced in the 90s. Also unless I was working on these cars all day everyday the asbestos is not a concern otherwise every person that ever worked on one of these would have lung cancer by now.
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Aug 2, 2016 23:02
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VikingSkull posted:don't listen to the haters, hack that bitch up and do smokey burnouts This is the whole "you wouldn't refrain from loving your girlfriend/boyfriend in order to keep them pristine for the next person" that I agree with. It's yours, do whatever with it. You don't want to be on your deathbed knowing that you didn't achieve what you wanted to achieve, be that anal or dropping a large motor in an old car... 
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Aug 4, 2016 16:57
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Dump a b20 in it.  Fantastic car by the way!
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Aug 5, 2016 06:17
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Valt posted:A couple of things about that. These are not original pads and were most likely replaced in the 90s. Also unless I was working on these cars all day everyday the asbestos is not a concern otherwise every person that ever worked on one of these would have lung cancer by now. It is true that risk increases with intensity of exposure and also length of exposure, but there are plenty of cases from single exposures decades before, too. They're the reason the EPA refuses to set a TLV for asbestos dust. Avoiding the issue is pretty easy anyways, lay out some cardboard or a piece of old carpet, hose it down, hose the brakes down the second you have the drum off (and wash the drum if reusing it), rinse all dust and residue onto the carpet/cardboard, bag it up with the shoes and throw it out. Done. The key is keeping it wet so the dust doesn't become airborne. Awesome truck and awesome car, as well. Every time I see you post the truck I get confused and wonder when Fart Pipe changed his forums username again.
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Aug 5, 2016 22:58
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Do modern shoes still use asbestos?
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Aug 5, 2016 23:14
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QuarkMartial posted:Do modern shoes still use asbestos? No, asbestos has been banned by the EPA for a long LONG time.
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Aug 5, 2016 23:18
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e: no, sorry, you're wrong. There is a specific list of products that are still allowed to contain asbestos to this day. And manufacturers were allowed to continue selling stock they had already produced, even after the ban in the late 70s. The ban only stopped continued production and mining of asbestos. I believe it is legally still allowed (and leftover stock from pre-ban asbestos production is still legal to sell, so beware of new old stock brake components, gaskets, packings, fireproof putties, and some wiring products IIRC) but no modern brake manufacturer is dumb enough to put asbestos in their products and get dragged over the coals by their competition for it. e: direct from asbestos.com, I wasn't exactly correct: quote:Finally in the 1970s, the scientific evidence surrounding the dangers of the mineral became publicly accepted. In December 1977, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission banned the use of asbestos-containing patching compounds and artificial fireplace ash products. More than a decade later, on July 12, 1989, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) issued a ban on most contaminated products, but this ruling was overturned two years later by a New Orleans court. Currently, the EPA ban affects only flooring felt, rollboard and certain types of papers. It's really a pretty toothless ban. e2: https://www.epa.gov/asbestos/us-federal-bans-asbestos kastein fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Aug 5, 2016 |
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Aug 5, 2016 23:19
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What the gently caress? Anything containing any Asbestos got flat out banned here in 2003. James Hardie got run out of the country with the mass of lawsuits and damages
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Aug 6, 2016 12:59
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So a little update on the car. I finally decided to tackle the job I have been dreading, replacing the master cylinder (as it was leaking very badly and in general not working well). A normal master cylinder replacement is not a big deal even on my C10. However on the 49' the master cylinder is under the drivers side floor board. Which in itself is not the end of the world. However what makes the whole thing much worse is the fact that the clutch and brake pedals are hinged through the front of the master cylinder. This is the view from the access panel that is in the back part of the drivers side front wheel well.  This is what you can see from the access panel. The big bolt you see on the front is actually a cover for the woodruff key that holds the brake and clutch arms in place.  The is the view from under the car where you can get a better idea of how the arms connect. There are just two bolts holding the master cylinder to the car. Those are easy to remove. Once you remove the woodruff key which requires the use of some kind of bent up piece of metal to hook it or just grab it with friction. In my case I used a coat hanger that I bent up and jammed in there. Luckily for me mine was fairly loose and came out easily. Once that was done we then had to try and remove the arms from the master cylinder. I at first just tried to pound out the brake arm. But after much frustration we found that unbolting the brake arm from its pivot (it is a two piece arm) that we can then just slide the master cylinder off of the clutch arm. The whole thing took about 4 hours of lying on my back covered in grease and what ever else was on the bottom of the car. It was a very finicky job but at least its done and the new master cylinder should be easy to get back in.
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Aug 20, 2016 23:36
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My name is LobsterboyX and I approve this thread - This thing is such a beauty, I love the blackwalls, I love the basic interior, I love the paint, I love this vehicle. So many of my friends have one of these that I feel I've owned one too. It's your car and you can do whatever you wish with it! about that sun visor, I cant really tell from the picture, but are there screws/bolts on the under side of it towards the middle? if there are, you can open it up and they are adjustable by some tiny set screws in bars at the front and back. I've seen that type before, but have no experience with them. I'm more partial to the Fulton brand which I've been told is the most gangster part of my car:  Before you go the SBC route, take a look here: http://www.cliffordperformance.net/ - also there is a plethora of very cool hop up stuff for the 235, if done well, the little 235 will preform as well as a stock SBC - the easiest things are fenton headders, HEI distributor (that can be disguised to look old), "powerglide" rear end - I cant recall the ratio off the top of my head, but the manual cars were given much lower gears for some odd reason, healthy cam and of course a dual carb setup another interesting swap is a GMC 6 - they came in a few flavors, but the most popular being the 292 and 302 - Those motors came out of buses and trucks, and can be made beastly very quickly, and the valve covers are bitchin. lowering the car is dead easy, blocks out back and van springs up front, if you want to go pro, drop uprights. well done brakes stop great, properly grounded 6 volt works just fine, but if you desire the sawp to 12 is dead easy (and you can run a radio and charge your phone) an added bonus is your horns become sonic weapons, I call mine the humiliation horns. I see you've already discovered the wonders of vintage brake MC's my 48 is like that, my 54 is a little bit further forward, but still very low and my 58 is up high like a modern car, you can tell they were dialing it in. All in all, great car, and that truck has the most amazing patina ever. Good work, cant wait to see where you go with this.
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Aug 23, 2016 07:51
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LobsterboyX posted:My name is LobsterboyX and I approve this thread - Yes the visor is adjustable as you describe. But regardless of how its adjusted it doesn't quite match the curve of the car. I think I could probably make new mounts for the side to make it work. I am not sure if it wouldn't just be easier to trade someone for the correct visor though. I am currently painting the visor black as it was all beat up and multi colored. I can get some more pictures of the visor if you think you can identify it. As far as the straight six stuff goes thank you for that link. Any motor changes are not happening for a while. I still need to finish building my motorcycle so it's going to be taking up a lot of my money and time. The car mostly just needs brakes gone through and the window seal leaks bad so it has to get replaced.
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Aug 23, 2016 21:53
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I want to keep this thread alive as I am still working on the car. I am currently saving up money to buy a new master cylinder. I am also probably going to convert the front to disc since a conversion kit is about $300 and would be easy to install. The drums up front probably need new wheel cylinders and pads and one of them needs a new drum. That probably adds up to more then the money it would cost to convert. As a side note I did some catering work out in the country and this happened. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwPZHaON8vQ
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Sep 12, 2016 03:12
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So I haven't been able to work on the car in a while but I got to it recently. I bought a re manufactured master cylinder from O'Reilly's. I was able to get it installed without to much drama. However when we went to go bleed the front brakes we got no fluid out of the bleeders out front. Apparently the rubber lines were clogged or rotted or something. I replaced them and actually had fluid at that point. I have been working 60 hour weeks with one day off so once I got it to that point I could only work on it once a week really. Originally we bled it but didn't really get it right and there was barely any pressure at the pedal at all. So today I bought a vacuum pump to try and bleed it myself. But that required replacing the bleed screws up front. The original bleed screws did not have nipples on them so you could not hook up self bleeder to them. After attempting to bleed them myself I did not get anywhere. So I had my friend come over and we bled the fronts a bunch of times and as best we could tell there was no air in the lines. We spent the better part of 2 hours trying to bleed the fronts and getting no where. What I had forgotten is that it is a single master cylinder. So if there is air in the system all the brakes will have air. So out of desperation I cracked the bleeders in the back and got nothing but air. So after bleeding the rear brakes finally they work correctly. What I can say after getting them working correctly is that they are worse then the drums on the truck. I did adjust them so they are probably about as good as they will ever be. So I will probably convert it to disc up front. Its only about 300 dollars and very easy to install. Eventually I will need to convert to a dual master cylinder as well but for no the single will work. What I need to work on now is the slow starting when hot. I have been told that the 6 volt systems really rely on the connections to the starter and the battery to be very clean. Otherwise there is not enough voltage to get through any crud. Right now it barely turns over when its hot even though the battery has plenty of charge and is brand new. I'm going to try taking the cables off and cleaning them to see if that helps.
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Oct 3, 2016 08:50
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Chances are at this age you might as well replace the starter to battery and ground wires. Internal corrosion has probably made them look ok but not work well. I'd suggest at least a 4awg wire replacement, certainly can't hurt anything.
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Oct 3, 2016 10:41
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Veeb0rg posted:Chances are at this age you might as well replace the starter to battery and ground wires. Internal corrosion has probably made them look ok but not work well. I'd suggest at least a 4awg wire replacement, certainly can't hurt anything. I doubt very seriously these are original cables. More likely the connections are just dirty and it needs a good clean.
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Oct 3, 2016 20:37
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Is the starter near the exhaust at all? If it is, maybe wrap the nearby sections in header wrap, or slap a heat shield together? I know 12V starters don't appreciate heat soak; I would think a 6V would appreciate it even less. Just a shot in the dark though.
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Oct 4, 2016 09:12
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Is the starter near the exhaust at all? If it is, maybe wrap the nearby sections in header wrap, or slap a heat shield together? The starter motor is on the other side from the exhaust. I replaced the cable and messed with it a bunch this morning. But it would not even start. Finally I took the battery to autozone to test it. Apparently it would not hold a charge so they replaced it. After that the car started both cold and hot. So hopefully that resolved that problem and now I await the next problem.
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Oct 5, 2016 04:55
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This needs a GM supercharger hanging off the side of the six with a steam pipe log manifold. Just saying....
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Oct 5, 2016 22:50
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That car doesn’t look anywhere near forty‐nine feet long. 
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Oct 6, 2016 04:56
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In todays adventures in old broken stuff I bring you the tale of the slow start. So I have been fighting this ever since I got the car running. The car will sometimes be very hard to start when it has been running for a while. As far as I know this is normal with 6 volt cars. However recently it would not start at all and I had to bump start the car. I went and had the battery replaced as it was older and they ordered me a new one. After installing the brand new battery the car was very hard to start cold. I drove it like this for about a day then that night it would barely start and in fact the solenoid got extremely hot. At this point I pulled the starter and brought it to a starter repair shop who completely rebuilt it. Meaning new windings, pinion gear, armature the whole deal. They also put on a new 6 volt solenoid, they tested that it was working and gave it back to me. Thinking that I had my solution I went home and bolted it on the car got everything hooked up and *Click* the solenoid engages but the starter motor would not. Below is a picture of the wiring for the starter so that you can understand what I am talking about.  So what I have found is that if I jump the hot lead to the switch terminal on the solenoid the solenoid will engage and the starter will turn. The following is what I have done to try and isolate in the car. -Removed the starter switch and tried to go hot lead to the ground on the switch -This results in the starter motor sometimes engaging but more often then not just a click. -Removed the actually lead that comes from the solenoid into the car from the dash. -Hooked this lead up to the switch with the ground that goes to the solenoid. -This results in the starter motor sometimes turning but again more often then not I get a click. -Tried to touch the two leads together in the car (again these are just the other ends of the leads that are connected to the solenoid on the starter). -I just get a click here. -Hooked a longer length of heavy gauge wire up to grounded switch lead. -Tested for resistance on the switch lead to the solenoid. -No resistance found. -Repeated this same process but for the hot lead. -No resistance found on this wire either. At this point I am seriously at a loss and more importantly I don't know what to test at this point. I should point out that at all times during my I had 6.3 ish volts on the battery and the hot leads at all times. Also if I jumped the hot lead to the switch terminal on the solenoid I can always get the starter motor to run. Anyone have any ideas here? I really don't want to bring it to someone but at this point I have wasted a week on it and I feel like I farther away from a solution.
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Nov 24, 2016 03:19
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Check the engine block ground to battery connection?
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Nov 24, 2016 09:16
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Get a wire brush and clean absolutely every connection. If that doesn't work maybe try hooking up an ammeter inline before the solenoid, and after the solenoid and take readings while you turn it over. It should show you if there's a drop somewhere in the system. I think the battery can be ruled out at this point because when you jump it to the switch terminal it turns the motor over. Clearly the starter isn't getting enough juice to turn over. edit: how are the fuses? I had some bizarre electrical gremlins in my '78 BMW and turns out the fuse connections were corroded and doing weird things they had no right to do.
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Nov 25, 2016 03:00
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Breakfast Feud posted:Get a wire brush and clean absolutely every connection. If that doesn't work maybe try hooking up an ammeter inline before the solenoid, and after the solenoid and take readings while you turn it over. It should show you if there's a drop somewhere in the system. I think the battery can be ruled out at this point because when you jump it to the switch terminal it turns the motor over. Clearly the starter isn't getting enough juice to turn over. I think I should clarify here. The diagram posted above shows the wiring coming into the car from the starter and ignition. So there are only three wires that come into the car that involve the starter and ignition. There is a hot lead that brings power to the car, there is the switch wire that goes only to the switch, and there is the power wire going to the ignition. Something that maybe isn't super clear here is that the starter switch and the ignition switch in this car are two different things. You don't start the car with a key, you lock the ignition with a key. But otherwise if the ignition is on you just press the starter button and it starts the car. So What I did to try and isolate was just take the switch lead and touch to the hot lead in the car. This results in a click and no start. I tested for resistance and grounding on both of those wires and found none.
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Nov 25, 2016 17:46
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If you have a good battery and a good starter, somewhere in the circuit is a connection with high resistance. With a 6v system you are more susceptible to resistance issues, which can absolutely be cumulative. Like was suggested, check where the negative wire meets the frame/block. Also the battery terminals themselves, they have fooled and aggravated me on many vehicles. What are you meaning when you say you see no resistance? Even a good connection has some resistance, just curious exactly what you're seeing there?
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Nov 25, 2016 21:40
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angryrobots posted:If you have a good battery and a good starter, somewhere in the circuit is a connection with high resistance. With a 6v system you are more susceptible to resistance issues, which can absolutely be cumulative. If the ground was a issue it would persist no matter what I was doing. When I say there is no resistance what I mean is that there is no measurable resistance. Also there is no fuses involved in that part of the circuit.
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Nov 25, 2016 21:54
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That makes a little more sense. I'm also going to veer towards "resistance issue" if you can get the starter to fire every time you jump it directly. At this point we have two points in the circuit. The "good" part which is the battery and starter, and the "bad" part which is the assembly that involves the solenoid, ignition, and the starter button. I would honestly be really tempted to put an ammeter inline with just the battery and the starter, see what the draw is when it turns over, then do the same with the "bad" part of the circuit also connected. If there is a resistance issue the draw should be larger then. This would at least let you know you're on the right track. Honestly though, if the wiring is original I would be halfway tempted just to run new wires because strange things happen to old copper.
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Nov 26, 2016 19:16
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Breakfast Feud posted:That makes a little more sense. I'm also going to veer towards "resistance issue" if you can get the starter to fire every time you jump it directly. The wiring in the car is new. I'm going to hook up the switch with wires and see what it does. If that doesn't work then I don't really know. So I wired the switch up external to the cars wiring harness and it still just clicks and won't turn over. I bypassed the switch and it still just clicks so the switch isn't the issue. At this point the only thing that could be affecting anything is either a ground somewhere or the solenoid itself. But that being said I don't understand why it will turn over when I jump the solenoid with a big gauge cable. *Edit* For clarification when I say a ground somewhere there are only two grounds involved here. The ground on the battery and the ground to the starter. Which the solenoid grounds to the starter which is itself grounded by the connection to the motor. Valt fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Nov 26, 2016 |
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Nov 26, 2016 19:43
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Okay, so let's take apart your circuit piece by piece. Have you tried taking a big gauge cable to activate the solenoid in place of the ignition/button? If you can get the solenoid to activate the starter using a different (or no) switch then you can rule out the solenoid. edit: if it's not clear/obvious physically disconnect the ignition/starter button portion of the circuit before you test the battery/solenoid/starter portion
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Nov 26, 2016 20:52
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Breakfast Feud posted:Okay, so let's take apart your circuit piece by piece. I took a video showing basically what I have been doing so that you can see whats going on. Also it should be noted that even if I touch the wires without the switch I get the same result. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kPgWMptmFY
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Nov 26, 2016 21:11
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If you use the switch or touch the wires and only get a click, but using aux cable starts, it's your cable, new or not. Try switch through aux cable.
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Nov 26, 2016 21:16
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cakesmith handyman posted:If you use the switch or touch the wires and only get a click, but using aux cable starts, it's your cable, new or not. Try switch through aux cable. Thats fine and all but this is how the car was setup and had been working. The only thing that is new to the car here is the solenoid. The big old battery cable is probably just giving me a lot more amperage then I would normally have at that point. Normally the hot lead goes into the car and ties into the harness. The wire that goes to the actual switch is no bigger then the ones that are on it now.
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Nov 26, 2016 21:34
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Valt posted:I took a video showing basically what I have been doing so that you can see whats going on. Also it should be noted that even if I touch the wires without the switch I get the same result.
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Nov 26, 2016 22:23
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angryrobots posted:At this point I would have a helper bump the starter button while I observed voltage at each connection point starting at the battery until I found where it dropped. I know you said it was good but I kind of suspect the battery or terminal(s). Either the solenoid isn't getting enough voltage to close, or the solenoid is weak. What I am guessing is actually the problem is the pinions engagement to the ring gear is much tighter then it used to be. I am getting around this problem by hitting it with way more amperage then it would ever see. When I can get the car to start it sounds very much like the pinion is getting stuck engaged.
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Nov 26, 2016 22:28
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Valt posted:I went and had the battery replaced as it was older and they ordered me a new one. After installing the brand new battery the car was very hard to start cold. I drove it like this for about a day then that night it would barely start and in fact the solenoid got extremely hot. I'm wondering if the battery they installed is either old/weaker from riding the shelf, or undersized.
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Nov 27, 2016 07:18
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angryrobots posted:Just going back to this, and the order your issues happened in. I know you also said that voltage was good on the new battery, but were you able to observe it while cranking? Battery voltage does not drop below 5.8 while cranking. The battery that they ordered was new specifically to get around the problem you are describing.
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Nov 27, 2016 09:19
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Okay so I read back to make sure I knew what was what, issues as you say started after fitting the rebuilt starter and you suspect it's meshed too tightly. Is there any adjustment on fitting the starter to set pinion to ring gear intermesh? If not going back to the shop that rebuilt the starter and explaining the symptoms may yield better suggestions.
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Nov 27, 2016 11:39
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cakesmith handyman posted:Okay so I read back to make sure I knew what was what, issues as you say started after fitting the rebuilt starter and you suspect it's meshed too tightly. Is there any adjustment on fitting the starter to set pinion to ring gear intermesh? If not going back to the shop that rebuilt the starter and explaining the symptoms may yield better suggestions. Yah that is what I am going to do on Monday.
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Nov 27, 2016 16:17
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