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Get a wire brush and clean absolutely every connection. If that doesn't work maybe try hooking up an ammeter inline before the solenoid, and after the solenoid and take readings while you turn it over. It should show you if there's a drop somewhere in the system. I think the battery can be ruled out at this point because when you jump it to the switch terminal it turns the motor over. Clearly the starter isn't getting enough juice to turn over. edit: how are the fuses? I had some bizarre electrical gremlins in my '78 BMW and turns out the fuse connections were corroded and doing weird things they had no right to do.
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Nov 25, 2016 03:00
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 14:20 |
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That makes a little more sense. I'm also going to veer towards "resistance issue" if you can get the starter to fire every time you jump it directly. At this point we have two points in the circuit. The "good" part which is the battery and starter, and the "bad" part which is the assembly that involves the solenoid, ignition, and the starter button. I would honestly be really tempted to put an ammeter inline with just the battery and the starter, see what the draw is when it turns over, then do the same with the "bad" part of the circuit also connected. If there is a resistance issue the draw should be larger then. This would at least let you know you're on the right track. Honestly though, if the wiring is original I would be halfway tempted just to run new wires because strange things happen to old copper.
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Nov 26, 2016 19:16
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Okay, so let's take apart your circuit piece by piece. Have you tried taking a big gauge cable to activate the solenoid in place of the ignition/button? If you can get the solenoid to activate the starter using a different (or no) switch then you can rule out the solenoid. edit: if it's not clear/obvious physically disconnect the ignition/starter button portion of the circuit before you test the battery/solenoid/starter portion
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Nov 26, 2016 20:52
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