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Valt posted:A couple of things about that. These are not original pads and were most likely replaced in the 90s. Also unless I was working on these cars all day everyday the asbestos is not a concern otherwise every person that ever worked on one of these would have lung cancer by now. It is true that risk increases with intensity of exposure and also length of exposure, but there are plenty of cases from single exposures decades before, too. They're the reason the EPA refuses to set a TLV for asbestos dust. Avoiding the issue is pretty easy anyways, lay out some cardboard or a piece of old carpet, hose it down, hose the brakes down the second you have the drum off (and wash the drum if reusing it), rinse all dust and residue onto the carpet/cardboard, bag it up with the shoes and throw it out. Done. The key is keeping it wet so the dust doesn't become airborne. Awesome truck and awesome car, as well. Every time I see you post the truck I get confused and wonder when Fart Pipe changed his forums username again.
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Aug 5, 2016 22:58
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e: no, sorry, you're wrong. There is a specific list of products that are still allowed to contain asbestos to this day. And manufacturers were allowed to continue selling stock they had already produced, even after the ban in the late 70s. The ban only stopped continued production and mining of asbestos. I believe it is legally still allowed (and leftover stock from pre-ban asbestos production is still legal to sell, so beware of new old stock brake components, gaskets, packings, fireproof putties, and some wiring products IIRC) but no modern brake manufacturer is dumb enough to put asbestos in their products and get dragged over the coals by their competition for it. e: direct from asbestos.com, I wasn't exactly correct: quote:Finally in the 1970s, the scientific evidence surrounding the dangers of the mineral became publicly accepted. In December 1977, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission banned the use of asbestos-containing patching compounds and artificial fireplace ash products. More than a decade later, on July 12, 1989, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) issued a ban on most contaminated products, but this ruling was overturned two years later by a New Orleans court. Currently, the EPA ban affects only flooring felt, rollboard and certain types of papers. It's really a pretty toothless ban. e2: https://www.epa.gov/asbestos/us-federal-bans-asbestos kastein fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Aug 5, 2016 |
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Aug 5, 2016 23:19
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Unsure if this has already been mentioned, but: - don't put an ammeter inline with a starter unless it's capable of measuring several HUNDRED amps DC, else you will explode it or set it on fire - measuring resistance on starter wiring (aside from the solenoid triggers, etc) with a regular ohm-meter is useless. Even a hundredth of an ohm of resistance in that circuit will result in several volts drop when the starter is trying to turn, and regular ohm-meters are inaccurate below a few ohms generally (in my experience) even if they read zero when the leads are touched together. Most read 0.2 or 0.4 or so ohms with the inputs shorted, and you're hunting thousandths or hundredths of an ohm, so you're basically trying to measure inches with your trip odometer. If you want to find the trouble spot without spending a lot of money on a high current DC ammeter or a 4-wire Kelvin-style milliohmmeter, usually it's best to have someone else smash the button while you use your meter set to DC volts to find the wiring connection, piece of wire, or solenoid that has the largest voltage drop across it, then investigate further from there. For instance put one probe on the top of the negative battery stud and the other as far down the battery cable's clamp as you can reach, if you measure more voltage than expected, there's your problem. Or one probe on the top of a starter contactor stud and the other on the ring terminal that is bolted to it, or measure the voltage from that contactor stud to the battery lug it's connected to. e: http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/direct-current/chpt-8/kelvin-resistance-measurement/ and this is why you want to do it the backyard way instead of buying the equipment to actually measure this kind of low resistance connection accurately, look at those pricetags...  https://www.grainger.com/category/milli-micro-ohm-meters/electrical-power-testing/test-instruments/ecatalog/N-b9s
kastein fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Nov 30, 2016 |
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Nov 30, 2016 18:54
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