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My name is LobsterboyX and I approve this thread - This thing is such a beauty, I love the blackwalls, I love the basic interior, I love the paint, I love this vehicle. So many of my friends have one of these that I feel I've owned one too. It's your car and you can do whatever you wish with it! about that sun visor, I cant really tell from the picture, but are there screws/bolts on the under side of it towards the middle? if there are, you can open it up and they are adjustable by some tiny set screws in bars at the front and back. I've seen that type before, but have no experience with them. I'm more partial to the Fulton brand which I've been told is the most gangster part of my car:  Before you go the SBC route, take a look here: http://www.cliffordperformance.net/ - also there is a plethora of very cool hop up stuff for the 235, if done well, the little 235 will preform as well as a stock SBC - the easiest things are fenton headders, HEI distributor (that can be disguised to look old), "powerglide" rear end - I cant recall the ratio off the top of my head, but the manual cars were given much lower gears for some odd reason, healthy cam and of course a dual carb setup another interesting swap is a GMC 6 - they came in a few flavors, but the most popular being the 292 and 302 - Those motors came out of buses and trucks, and can be made beastly very quickly, and the valve covers are bitchin. lowering the car is dead easy, blocks out back and van springs up front, if you want to go pro, drop uprights. well done brakes stop great, properly grounded 6 volt works just fine, but if you desire the sawp to 12 is dead easy (and you can run a radio and charge your phone) an added bonus is your horns become sonic weapons, I call mine the humiliation horns. I see you've already discovered the wonders of vintage brake MC's my 48 is like that, my 54 is a little bit further forward, but still very low and my 58 is up high like a modern car, you can tell they were dialing it in. All in all, great car, and that truck has the most amazing patina ever. Good work, cant wait to see where you go with this.
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Aug 23, 2016 07:51
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 22:48 |
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Looks awesome lowered like that - I really love these cars low. Here's a word of warning, next time the front of the engine is apart, take a minute and remove the timing gear cover and give a quick look at the timing gears. From the factory the cam gear was made of a fibrous type material, they have a tendency to let go after years of sitting and "waking up" - you can easily, quickly and cheaply replace that gear with a aluminum one which will save you from blowing your head, bending valves/rods and blowing your motor. Most of my friends have gotten very lucky and only bent push rods, but a few have lost cams, and had some serious valve vs. piston contact About the starter, I've had the stock 6v starter in my 48 roadmaster that was converted to 12v - works fine still to this day, I just try not to crank a lot.
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Feb 7, 2017 07:20
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Check your grounds, on 6v cars I like to double ground them, run one ground to the frame the other to the engine and make sure the body strap grounds are in good shape and clean. Find a shop that does starter rebuilding and have them go to town. Switching from 6 to 12 isnt hard on these cars, its as easy as changing the bulbs, battery and coil. Just check for any bare wires - I'd be more concerned about the distributor, which is the early type where the whole body of the distributor moves with the advance. to answer your question from earlier, - id have to see a photo of the thing to tell you how to remove it, but IIRC they are only pressed on with a woodruf key to keep it from spinning- if what your describing is what I think it is, you only have to remove the two bolts and get a puller in there, you have to find something that will fit inside the hand crank hole to get a good pull
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Feb 28, 2017 15:06
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Valt posted:Yah as far as the grounds go it's good. Both the positive and negative cables are big rear end welding cable. I already had a local shop rebuild the starter and put a new solenoid on it but it's still doing this. At this point I am just going to get a rebuilt unit from chevs of the 40s or something. But of course! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Voltage-Reducer-Regulator-12-VOLTS-to-6-VOLTS-20-AMPS-/132110436353?hash=item1ec2654801:g:i~cAAOSwDNdVx6qR I purchased one of these suckers and it works great - I had my original radio rebuilt in my 48 with an added aux-in so that I can listen to my phone - the guy has recently been adding blue tooth recievers as well - The transmission in that car is no unicorn, its pretty standard all the way up until 55, as is the torque tube - if you want to change it, you also have to swap out your rear end for whatever flavor you desire. 55-57 fit perfectly and require no modification, they are open drive, also a lot of guys go with 9" fords which need some modification to fit. Later novas 68-76, as well as G-body rears area also a popular swap The rabbit hole runs deep with motor swaps on these cars, a lot of guys prefer to have the original and just swap in more modern 6's so as not to have to deal with the rear end issue
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Feb 28, 2017 22:11
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