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Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.
Christ guys, I've got all the social grace of a Chihuahua and I know not to start derails in completely unrelated threads.

This is a thread for silicone dickery and silicone dickery accessories. Like squish fish.

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Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.
Fish and dongs can both be in pretty much any color (including Home Depot orange), and the silicone itself is a simple pale white liquid with no intrinsic fluorescence or phosphorescence whatsoever.



These two are going to the same person: Mount Doom and Sunrise.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

Faerunner posted:

Wow, that sunrise striping looks like it took forever. Nice work!

It took very little additional effort relative to pouring a single color! It's all about how you pour it.


Brovine posted:

Is it too late to buy some fish? I would love me some fish.

I have a LOT of fish. Maybe a hundred. People are welcome to order fish for $2 apiece plus shipping.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

Canuck-Errant posted:

Just as a sort of theoretical question, how difficult would it be to make a puntl with a simple hilt? It would also have to be silver with GITD powder in, of course, but... uh, just wondering. For a friend.

I would have to make a brand new mold and model. That's a bit more effort and money than I'm willing to spend on an extension of an internet joke.


Hrvstmn31 posted:

Oh does that clear one on the end with the colored speckles glow in the dark?

No, but the speckles are fluorescent, so it looks rad under a blacklight.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

Canuck-Errant posted:

What about just embedding a dowel in the puntl ? I mean, it's not like the hilt has to be cast in the same piece, or even made out of silicone...

In that case, I would not consider the toy to be "usable." Possible to make, though.

I just got home from work and I've got 14 new private messages and a handful of emails, so it might take a while to read and respond. Have a patience reward fish:



I remembered that it's possible to manually set your gray point when you open a RAW in Photoshop, and I usually take pictures in front of a gray or silver background, so all photos posted from now on should have a realistic color balance.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.
That GBS renaming thread has made for some real chaos!


subpar anachronism posted:

How much would it cost to ship fish to Canada? Doesn't have to be in a hurry or anything.

Shipping <10 fish to Canada should be about $10 on the East and $15 on the West.

For those of you overseas, shipping cost seems to be determined by volume and not weight. That means it costs the same to ship 1 fish as 10 since everything goes out in the same box. Typical shipping costs are $15 to the UK, $20 to Western Europe, and $25 to Australia if I can fit everything in a small box.


Horrible Lurkbeast posted:

Hey OP, if I buy you this mold will you make me some dinos?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DIY...ed-943c42706ee3

Those are adorable, but I don't want to get back into the biz in any major way. On the other hand, you could make dozens yourself with $60 in supplies from Smooth-On.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

Delivery McGee posted:

The fish are one-sided, right? Like a novelty ice-cube mold? I'd pay $6 for a whole fish, but half a fish, meh. :v:

One-sided, yes, and they all have the same handedness so I can't even glue two together.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

Grendel posted:

That raises an interesting question - using your techniques & materials, is it possible to make ice-cube molds? I see two possible problems - that they wouldn't be food-safe, and that they might not be durable enough.

I guess it would be possible if you made a two-part mold and very stiff silicone. They would definitely be food-safe if they're made from platinum-cure silicone. Durability would be pretty good, I think, considering the cheap plastic most ice cube trays are made of.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.
Good news for the thread, but bad for me: my wife got laid off, so she will be able to mail packages more frequently than once a week.

People continue to order as fast as I can produce, so the thread will be going for another month at minimum.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

Canuck-Errant posted:

So, uh. Apparently that theorypost of elise's has become popular on Tumblr.

Holy cow!


Indigo Raven posted:

Heyyy, I know you! :>
I remember you saying you were dropping out of the dong business but I had no idea it was from drama. I knew the community could be dumb but, yikes, didn't realize it was that bad. Really sorry to hear that. :c
I seem to remember that you were planning to give or sell some of your molds to other shops. Is that still the plan or did that fall through?

Yes, that's still the plan. I am not making any of my old designs. There were a lot of reasons I stopped selling dongs, and drama was a big one, but there was no way I was going to say so on Tumblr and make people feel like it might've been their fault.


In other news, I made a MURKA dong:

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

Scudworth posted:

Dude starts a thread about being sick of the drama from people on Tumblr and you link to it on Tumblr.

Yeah, for real, I am not particularly happy about that. At least edit out the link to this thread, please.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

MisterGoGo posted:

Mancer could probably testify to how tricky cleaning tools/brushes/bowls is.

Brushes are a total pain, yeah, but I have a tip for the rest: mix your Parts A and B early on in the process, and mix them thoroughly. Measure them both using the same measuring cup. That way, you should have an approximately equal portion of A and B in all of your cups and bowls, and you won't have to work so hard to clean them. I use metal kitchen spoons for stirring, so even if some of the silicone on them doesn't cure, a quick wipe with a paper towel will do the trick.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

halenaw posted:

Now I'm kind of worried about the firmness I chose. Dildomancer, is medium firmness pretty much "erect dick" firmness?

I mean, not that I'm gonna actually stick it in my vag or anything I totally will

It's a bit softer than that, but you can change it if you want (or send a PM if you want some more info). I can always send you some firmness fish, too, if you want something physical to base your decision on.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.
Wow, you folks really like your squishy fish! I'm gonna have to dedicate a day or two just to making some more in custom colors.

Anyway, a new batch of puntls and fish goes out tomorrow. I've completed 43 orders so far and have 15 to go, so that's some darn good progress. I will also have a handful of "flops" to sell off when I'm done with orders - I'll probably put those on Etsy. Some of them have minor flaws, others just came out in the wrong color, firmness, or glow-in-the-darkness (protip: double-check the order before you start mixing your silicone). With my techniques, I typically end up with <5% flops, but this particular model's closer to 15% thanks to some dumb mistakes on my part.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.
Oh, I just remembered - I have a ton of Quarry Tone. If anyone wants a puntl that looks and feels like it's made out of granite, let me know. However, it must be for ornamental purposes only.

SamsCola posted:

Three Rings Dongs for the Elven-kings under the sky



Lookin' gorgeous!

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.


Sometimes really gorgeous things form in your mixing bowl while it goes through the vacuum chamber. I don't know what the finished dong will look like, probably nowhere near as cool as this looks, but mannnnn, totally worth the experiment.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

Maera Sior posted:

Dildomancer, are you still taking orders?

Yuppo. Shoot me a PM.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

`Nemesis posted:

This was from a few weeks ago, but the puntl went to my favorite bar. The bouncer later used it at bar time to intimidate people into leaving.

That's gawjiss <3


Pilsner posted:

Hey Dildomancer do you time to provide some help?

1) The mold, made from A33 silicone, was quite difficult to cut, and extracting the model was tough. What's your opinion on using A10 for mold making, since it will be a lot more stretchy and possible allow extracting both model and dong without making a cut? I would love to be able to avoid making a cut and not have to deal with seams. I had a quite big seam on the finished dong. I think this is also because I cut sideways AND zig-zag, which makes sort of a flat overlap. I should have only cut perpendickular (couldn't resist) to the model.
2) I used 3-4 coats of release agent inside the mold before pouring the dong, and I could tell it hardened into a sort-of misty-white fog. The finished dong (see picture 2) has a very dull white-ish texture, when I rub my thumb on it, tiny little white specks form, just like pencil eraser, and keep forming even though I washed it with soap. It also reeks of release agent. Is this normal for the very first casting and will the next be better? Did I use too much release agent? Or was it perhaps since I didn't degas my A33 mold silicone properly, so it has tiny cavities inside where the release agent harbors?

The base also has a very uneven transition from dong to base, lots of seam/ridge. Any tips for avoiding this? I used simple silicone baking sheets for forming a cylinder, and secured it with tape, since I couldn't easily find the "mylar sheet" you use.

On the positive side, I guess it didn't turn out too horribly for a first-timer. The suction cup I made (I used a 1/2 dl measuring cup) turned out perfect and is ridiculously strong.

Thanks if you can give me some tips. :)

Sure I can help! You've done a great job so far, it seems.

1) I've used three different things for making molds: A10 and A20 Dragon Skin, and Mold Star 30. I have to say, out of the three, the A20 Dragon Skin probably results in the best product. Just be aware it's very viscous and takes a long time to degas. If you can't get Smooth-On products, something that's A20 will work, but A10 is pushing it a bit too far toward the soft end. If you are having trouble extracting, cut your slit farther down. And as for alignment and avoiding the seam, it's more of an art than a science (and I still mess up sometimes after years of practice). Cutting at a slant is supposed to be better for alignment, but it can result in what you have. Here are two tips for you: check the mold with a bright light once you've taped it shut. Any misalignment should be obvious, then you can press with your fingers on the outside of the mold to align it properly. And the second tip is, if possible, to cut that slit along a natural lone on the dong's surface (a fold, crease, or vein). That is MUCH harder but can be done.

2) It looks like you did use too much, yeah. That is a small mistake, but the opposite, using too little, would ruin your mold as well, so don't be too upset. You will only need one coat for the second dong and it will come out much better.

3) For the base, I use more clay to smooth out the transition. If you want, you can trim down your mold with a very sharp knife to achieve the same effect without making a brand new one (see picture). The clay and the PVC will have different textures, which becomes obvious in the final toy. It's never bothered me, but you could fix this by roughing up the PVC with some sandpaper. Would help the clay adhere better, too.

<-- trim off the little flap between the arrows. Subtracting from the mold is effectively the same as adding to the model/toy.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

Pilsner posted:

Thanks for the tips. :)

I'm really keen on attempting to make what I just learned is called "sock" or "glove" molds, e.i. flexible molds from where the dong can be extracted without cutting. I think a visible seam will ruin the final product, and raises the risk of making a dud.

I just stumbled upon a neat detailed article with quite a different process:

http://blog.polytek.com/2015/07/15/how-to-make-a-rubber-glove-or-sock-mold/

He begins by painting, layer by layer, silicone onto the clay dong - I mean monkey statuette - then surrounds it by PVC pipe, and fills up the void with polyurethane foam to put pressure on the thin mold for later casting. The mold can then be taken out after the cast inside has cured, and peeled off like a glove. Pretty interesting.

I think I will at least experiment with making a one-piece mold using A10 silicone (using your method) and see what happens. Do you think it will flex too much during casting, making an imprecise cast? If I can find some soft PU foam, I might give the method above a shot.

Unless the toy is very tall, it shouldn't flex much at all. Just remember to use enough packing tape - at least one good 20cm-long strip across the seam every 5cm.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

Hrvstmn31 posted:

Hey mate I had a question do you put a clear coat on these because mines peeling a bit and I was wondering if it was ok if I just peel it off.

On one of yours I did - it wasn't glowing as much as I wanted it to, so I put a coat of more glowing silicone on top as an experiment. If it bugs you (or if it's peeling, that's disappointing but it's to be expected for an experiment) go ahead and peel it off; it won't hurt anything.

I also have a spare of that one. It's a bit embarrassing - I didn't like how the first attempt came out so I called it a flop, then made another one (the one you have), then I mixed the two up and ended up painting the wrong one. I guess the lesson is, "label everything."

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.
Since a couple people have asked via PM, yeah, I've still got fish (and will for the foreseeable future). Puntl orders have died down, though, so I'll get my free time back in time to play Civ 6.

On an unrelated note, it takes some serious dildorigami to fit an extra firm 8" cock 'n balls into a 5" box. I like to imagine the recipient shouts "Booya!" when it pops out like the world's naughtiest jack-in-the-box.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

Leperflesh posted:

Probably goes without saying but those fish are probably serious choking hazards for an infant, given size and composition. So like, make sure your 2 year old isn't chewing on it?

The fish have been the unexpected stars of the thread, and they're also the last thing I'd expect to physically harm someone, but that is a really good point.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.
Yeah, the big manufacturers include a whole disclaimer sheet with all the stuff the toys aren't intended for. It's all the usual stuff you'd expect - not for food, not a medical device, consult a doctor before dicking, if irritation occurs discontinue use, be cautious, don't give to pets or small children, wash before/after use, basic stuff like that. The firmness samples (like the fish) don't seem to have anything, though, because they're not intended to actually be used for everything. I guess you could make the case that they're toys if there's not a written warning explicitly stating that they are not toys.

Anyway, I tried something unusual on a toy I made last night and it came out pretty neat:

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

Freudian posted:

drat, I really like that - it looks a bit like Neptune.

Closer to Uranus, I think.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

The Repo Man posted:

So back to the thread subject, whenever I see artists take commissions on tumblr they usually open X number of commision slots so they don't get overwhelmed. Did you ever do that, Dildomancer, or do you think there is so much competition you would be worried you would lose potential customers?

I did that at first, but they would literally get filled up within a minute or two, and then people got super frustrated when they waited all week for a slot and missed it because they didn't reload at exactly the right time. From there, I went to a slightly more fair system where I would open up for ~1/2 hour at a time once every month or two and just take all comers, then re-open when I'd finished them all. I was never worried about losing potential customers.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.
I think the idea of scarcity also works to drum up interest. "Hey, this dude is really cheap and makes cool unique toys, but he only does one a day" is a lot more enticing and premium than "here is a company that makes dongs, you can order on their website." The other benefit was super fast turnaround - if I only took orders a dozen at a time, and I made three a day, that means I could finish all of them and have them shipped within a week, whereas many other manufacturers have a long lead time.

I remember getting one customer early on who ordered one evening, and I shipped it out the next morning. He was awestruck. For comparison, the one time I decided to order a toy online, it literally took four years to arrive. Obviously that's an outlier, but hell, can you imagine? Those of you who've ordered silicone toys and don't mind outing yourselves, how long did you have to wait?

For full disclosure: My current backlog for puntls is a little over 2 weeks.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

Hirayuki posted:

Did they have to find a panda to make the mold or what?

It was one person who had gained more popularity than they could handle (I later understood what that was like, and I don't blame them at all). Their backlog was pretty long to begin with, then they must have had a mold failure or something, because the model I ordered was discontinued and I had to choose a new one, which must have bumped me back to the bottom of the queue. Very poor organizational skills for sure. Not everyone is cut out for selling dongs since it takes so many skills to pull off: sculpture, molding, a little bit of industrial engineering, high school math, economics, organization, people skills, technological proficiency, marketing, and discipline. To some extent, all small businesses have similar requirements, and most small businesses fail quickly.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.
Only one puntl left in the backlog, and then I'm done! It's been a lot of fun making them for you all, but I will be very glad to have my free time back, especially considering I'm going on a vacation in a couple weeks. In the extremely rare chance any of you are on Tenerife, let me know and we can hang out and talk dongs.

Pilsner posted:

Dildomancer, can you tell me a little about the Smooth On Silc Pig pigments? I've experimented a bit with the pigments I've bought from a German supplier. They have two basic variants:

Paste (looks and feels like paint): This provides a full, solid and flat coloration of the otherwise opaque silicone. No opacity left.
Pigment (looks like make-up powder): This is kind of like tiny flecks of glitter, it doesn't fully color the silicone, but it ends up giving the whole piece a cool looking opaque/colored looked, with tiny tiny flecks/streaks of color everywhere, depending on how much you use.

What kind is the Silc Pig 9 pack sampler? I think the pigment gives an amazing look, while the paste gives a slightly boring look, because it's just 100% solid colored.

Also, I had some good progress in my experiments. As mentioned, I tried to make a mold of A10, and it turned out really well. It allows me to extract the dong without a cut/seam, which I think is awesome, you just stick down you hand and "dig" while pulling out the dong of the hole (hehe). Here's a pic:



The gold dong is made with the powder pigment I mentioned, and the blue mold is made with paste.

Regarding the release agent stench from my first prototype, a few observations:

1) I think the biggest mistake I made was to spray the mold seconds before pouring the silicone. Not to blame you, but in your Vimeo video guide (the 5-part series), you sprayed fresh release agent, then cut to where you immediately after poured silicone. Reading online, it's clear that the release agent needs to dry first. I can't find any specifics, but I tried letting it dry for 20 minutes and it turned out good.
2) With time (a few days), the smell evaporates a bit on its own
3) A soaking and rubbing in warm water and dish washing liquid helps remove the pencil eraser fluff and the smell from the release agent
4) Since you don't need to use that much release agent after the first cast, it's okay that the first prototype smells a little, then for subsequent dongs, you can use one quick coating, and it won't smell so much

I also found a good everyday items to use for wrapping around the top of the mold when casting: Laminating paper. Cheap, thin, easy to cut, easy to tape, and doesn't stick to silicone. I just can't find that "mylar sheet" you talk about here, is it like those opaque sheets of special paper that architects use to draw on?

Thanks again for your help. :)

Silc-Pig is like the paste you mention. You don't need to use a lot of it if you'd prefer to keep a bit of the silicone's translucency, but regardless, it's going to come out as a flat color if it's the only thing you use. Depending on how well you mix it into the silicone, you can also achieve a streaky or stripy effect, though a warning: using too much in this situation can lead to little pockets of ONLY pigment, which will cause problems if they're on the surface.

You can get glitter powder in big containers on Amazon or whatever your local online retailer of choice is. Look for cosmetic mica. The result you got is typical of using a small amount of powder, but if you dump in much more, the effect will become a striking metallic luster.

It's cool that you were able to make a glove mold like that. My concern has always been getting the original clay model out intact, which I haven't always been able to do, even after cutting several slits. And yeah, perhaps I should have mentioned letting it dry first. It should fully dry between each coat. Laminating paper is pretty thin, but if it was able to withstand the hydrostatic pressure as you were pouring silicone into the mold, then it seems like it could serve as a replacement for mylar. It is indeed the stuff architects (used to) use for drawing on. Pretty much everyone I know uses electronic files these days, but some old-school places may still print on mylar.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

Oodles posted:

Why would an American go through all that effort and flying to go to Tenerife? It's a short hop for EU but for you it's like lots of hours of flying. :iiam:

Well, it's a really long story, but the version I tell people is that I don't want to be anywhere NEAR the US during election day.


Pilsner posted:

Wow, the cosmetic mica looks like it could creating some amazing colors. Here's a shop I found:

http://www.mineralmakeupingredients.co.uk/epages/BT3899.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT3899/Categories/Mica_Powder

The question is: Is this body safe? And will it interfere with the platinum silicone curing? What's your experience?

Those really are gorgeous colors! I've never had mica interfere with silicone curing, not in the least. If you are unsure about whether it is body safe, I recommend contacting the company and asking them directly.


Faerunner posted:

Got my extra fish, they're gorgeous and very much worth it. Thank you, Dildomancer for allowing us to fulfill our secret fantasy wishes for floppy dongs! :D

No problem! Same goes to all of you who ordered - it's been lots of fun.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

Scudworth posted:

Don't play this game with people's assholes, man. Get the safe glitter.

Yeah, the last thing you want is someone's family sending you an obituary because they had an allergy to bismuth trioxide or whatever.

Anyway, I've completed the puntl backlog! I have a half-dozen extras sitting up on a shelf here, and most of them are fine with some minor flaws. If someone wants a leftover, shoot me a PM or whatever. Other than that, I guess the thread is pretty much complete! If we're going to be talking more about general silicone molding and tips, it would probably be best to make a new thread in the DIY forum and move the discussion there.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

Pilsner posted:

OK, but what kind of mica do you buy, and how do you assert that it's rear end-safe?

I buy from these folks, who have a handy chart for their mica: http://fromnaturewithlove.com/library/micasafetychart.asp

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.
Sheaths are totally a thing, sometimes just for the texture, not even the shape. And then you have the sheath's spiritual sister, the Feeldoe.

RandomPauI posted:

I got the fish.

Awesome!

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Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.
Thanks everyone, it's been fun :) If you have any more questions, feel free to send me a PM!

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