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Indiana_Krom posted:If the air cooled PC and water cooled PC had the same size radiators then yeah it would be the same. But pretty much the whole point of water cooling is that it doesn't have to be the same size. Since we use a pump to actively transport the heat away from the source, you can pretty much throw unlimited radiator space at it. For instance my custom loop has 700x38MM of high density fin packed radiators occupied by 5x 140MM fans that can push a theoretical 410 CFM through them. It is like 5 of the biggest 140MM heat pipe tower coolers you can buy packed into a single case. This can be taken to the logical extreme with external radiator towers. Pump the water out of the case to some giant cooling array that can fit as many radiators as your pump's head pressure can handle. This is how datacenter liquid cooling works, if I recall correctly? You also can't discount the thermal volume of water as well; part of the reason that we like to use coolant temperature sensors to control the fans is that the water in the loop adds additional thermal mass to the system, giving you more time between when you start producing heat and when you need to start radiating that heat into the environment to absorb more. This can cut down on how often your fans need to speed up and slow down, giving you a much smoother and consistent noise profile. Warmachine fucked around with this message at 16:45 on Dec 11, 2023 |
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Dec 11, 2023 16:41
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Warmachine posted:This can be taken to the logical extreme with external radiator towers. Pump the water out of the case to some giant cooling array that can fit as many radiators as your pump's head pressure can handle. This is how datacenter liquid cooling works, if I recall correctly? This is literally what I do. I've got a couple quick release fittings in a wall plate in my office and my radiator/pump setup is in another room. I run the front case fans at the lowest setting to make sure there's still airflow for the non watercooled parts, but the computer is functionally silent.
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Dec 14, 2023 19:39
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Nolgthorn posted:I've been sick all weekend and stayed in therefore behold: Oct 16 2022. My rig is still performing perfectly. I'm feeling nostalgic about how much fun it was to set this up and I've been itching for a reason to tear it apart and build it again. Unfortunately the cpu is awesome and there's no reason to replace it. The gpu is everything I could ever want but it's also one of the coolest running gpus on the market and there's no block for it. So everything's going great. 
Nolgthorn fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Jan 7, 2024 |
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Jan 7, 2024 05:53
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Oh yeah, I almost completely rebuilt my PC last month, replaced everything but the 4090, mechanical drives, and the radiators: Now with 100% more unicorn vomit:  The coolant temp is actually down like 3-4C with the same radiators, I replaced the Noctua Chromax fans I was using on them with Arctic P14s, along with an array of P12s in the side panel and the two stock PWM 140 MM corsair fans as intakes (both radiators exhaust, the front 280 MM is a pull, the top 420 MM is push). I think the drop is because the new case just breathes so much better, since the overall thermal load isn't that different (still in the ~500-600w range). Still very impressed with the Arctic P14s and P12s, perhaps even quieter than the Cromax fans, huge effective PWM range and significantly higher top speed when I call for it without being any louder. Tying it all together with fan control; the main "coolant" curve is straight linear, everything is pulling from a temperature sensor I have screwed into one of the extra ports on the GPU block. Trigger is for the pump, which just goes straight from idle to full speed once the temp crosses the threshold. Hysteresis is as disabled as possible because the coolant does it better on its own naturally.  Spun off the old PC using my older GTX 1080 that still has its water block on, just grabbed another 420mm radiator off amazon for it and handed it down in my family. I also got one of those corsair leak tester devices; it is super handy. You just close up your loop dry, then use the pump to pressurize it to around 7-9 PSI and let it sit for 30-60 minutes, if it holds the pressure you know there are no leaks. Indiana_Krom fucked around with this message at 14:02 on Jan 7, 2024 |
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Jan 7, 2024 13:31
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I'm very happy with the temperature and relative silence of my case since upgrading to water-cooling. Water cooling cost a lot but when paired with a thread ripper it just feels like it's necessary. The air cooling solutions are way too loud.
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Jan 10, 2024 02:57
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I’m not yet cool enough to have a custom loop, although I did have one at one point… but I do have an AIO. It’s a thermaltake 420mm and I have it hooked up to a 14900k. If anyone can help out with some questions I’d be grateful. Should I power the AIO pump using PWM or DC or it really doesn’t matter? The AIO has 3x140mm fans pushing air through the radiator. If I wanted some more performance, would adding fans on the back pulling air be advantageous? I’m using a completely open case… rack mounted in an open sided rack. Is this causing me huge issues? Should I be ducting the air away somehow? I have no idea how I’d manage that, but figured I’d ask since it’s far from a standard case. Using prime95, I can peg the cpu to where it will hit 100C. I can’t tell if it’s throttling very much or not but I’m just using hwmonitor. Any recommendations on better software for monitoring and control?
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Jan 10, 2024 07:11
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namlosh posted:I’m not yet cool enough to have a custom loop, although I did have one at one point… but I do have an AIO. It’s a thermaltake 420mm and I have it hooked up to a 14900k. If anyone can help out with some questions I’d be grateful. If there isn’t a dust filter over your intake or over the fans, your radiator is going to look absolutely filthy eventually. And the worst thing is that lint get stuck between the fans and the radiator so you got a really disassemble it to clean it. You need to either filter, the air coming into the computer or since that sounds like a really open set up you need to put filters over the fans that are pulling into the radiator. I have no advice about DC or PWM because I have a Corsair AIO and I just wire it up the way they say to do it and monitor it with their software. I have my fans staying at 35% until the water hits 35° then it ramps all the way to 100% fan at 40 C. I keep the pump on the highest setting.
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Jan 10, 2024 08:33
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namlosh posted:Should I power the AIO pump using PWM or DC or it really doesn’t matter? 99% certain you would use PWM.
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Jan 10, 2024 13:08
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Indiana_Krom posted:99% certain you would use PWM. spunkshui posted:<dust filter stuff that was a great idea> Thanks so much for the info. The AIO plugged right into a MoBo fan header labeled AIO_pump. Even the RGB had a connector on the motherboard… I feel dumb that I didn’t even consider installing software for the AIO. I’ll see if there’s any that might provide value
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Jan 12, 2024 14:22
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