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Desuwa
Jun 2, 2011

I'm telling my mommy. That pubbie doesn't do video games right!
Well this is fun. The alphacool MSI 4090 blocks don't cover every VRM even on the base model non-X gaming trio cards. Apparently it was a known issue for the SUPRIM card for months and no one bothered to physically check the lower end cards. Unfortunately I bought them over 30 days ago because stock for them was low so I thought I'd secure mine when I could. They supposedly have a fix they can ship out but even if they do it'll take a while. I didn't even know about the issue until I spot checked my own mounting job.

I'm just glad I thought to do one of my cards on its own first, so I still have the other one on air until this is resolved. Going to be avoiding alphacool in the future since they're not even doing the bare minimum.

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Solumin
Jan 11, 2013
Can I get a sanity check on my new build?
My current PC has a custom loop, but I'm switching to AiO for the new one because it's less hassle to build and easier to maintain.

CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K + Deepcool LT520 (3x120 mm)
Graphics: Gigabyte AORUS XTREME WATERFORCE GeForce RTX 4080 (3x120, built-in AiO)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Mid-Tower

The case can support 3x120 on top, 3x120 in front, and 1x120 (or 1x140) in back. I'm thinking of putting the graphics card in front with the fans set to intake, the CPU up top with fans set to exhaust, and the fan in rear as more exhaust.
Does that all make sense?

AutismVaccine
Feb 26, 2017


SPECIAL NEEDS
SQUAD

Desuwa posted:

alphacool MSI 4090 blocks

What the heck. Who needs QC anyway.

AutismVaccine
Feb 26, 2017


SPECIAL NEEDS
SQUAD

Solumin posted:

Can I get a sanity check on my new build?
My current PC has a custom loop, but I'm switching to AiO for the new one because it's less hassle to build and easier to maintain.

CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K + Deepcool LT520 (3x120 mm)
Graphics: Gigabyte AORUS XTREME WATERFORCE GeForce RTX 4080 (3x120, built-in AiO)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Mid-Tower

The case can support 3x120 on top, 3x120 in front, and 1x120 (or 1x140) in back. I'm thinking of putting the graphics card in front with the fans set to intake, the CPU up top with fans set to exhaust, and the fan in rear as more exhaust.
Does that all make sense?

Front in. Top out. Checks out :D

Do u even need a fan at the rear?

AutismVaccine fucked around with this message at 07:49 on May 11, 2023

Solumin
Jan 11, 2013
Probably not, honestly. The case diagram shows it being used, so why not?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Why wouldn't you want to increase your case pressure and provide a little more fresh air? If noise is a concern you could run it subaudible and still get some benefit.

E: I'm saying to run the rear fan as an intake but even as an exhaust I think it's a good idea. Actually I think I have this same flow pattern in my case and I run that fan as an exhaust. Hope you don't mind dust!

Solumin
Jan 11, 2013
The case has some very nice dust filters that aren't horribly annoying to remove, which help a lot.

Sorbus
Apr 1, 2010
Front and top in, rear out

KodiakRS
Jul 11, 2012

:stonk:
I'm about to start my first hardline build and have a few questions:

1. How do you measure complex tubes that require multiple bends that aren't in the same plane?

1b. What's the best method for making the bends in the type of tube mentioned above and keeping them square with each other? Would sandwiching the first bend between two books/blocks vertically while bending the second flat against the table work?

2. How much wiggle room is there with PMMA headline? Like if the pipe is a few degrees off from perfectly aligned with the fitting but fits if you put a little more tension on it is that going to cause the tube to press against the o-ring unevenly and create a bad seal?

3. Is it OK to mix cooling fluids? I have 1L of corsair coolant but I don't know if that's going to be enough as I'm running 2 extra thick radiators, a GPU block, CPU block, the pump/res, and all the tubing.

4. I'll have one rad on the bottom of the case and one in the top. What's the preferred intake and exhaust configuration for that sort of setup?

5. How much of my sanity am I going to lose trying to get a really clean looking result with my first hardline attempt?

Passburger
May 4, 2013

KodiakRS posted:

5. How much of my sanity am I going to lose trying to get a really clean looking result with my first hardline attempt?
A lot, but it's worth it.

Gamer coolants are mostly a meme unless you're going for a certain aesthetic, some may even clog your loop after a few years.
Distilled/battery-water and a drop or two of biocide should do it.

ZombieCrew
Apr 1, 2019

KodiakRS posted:

I'm about to start my first hardline build and have a few questions:

1. How do you measure complex tubes that require multiple bends that aren't in the same plane?

1b. What's the best method for making the bends in the type of tube mentioned above and keeping them square with each other? Would sandwiching the first bend between two books/blocks vertically while bending the second flat against the table work?

2. How much wiggle room is there with PMMA headline? Like if the pipe is a few degrees off from perfectly aligned with the fitting but fits if you put a little more tension on it is that going to cause the tube to press against the o-ring unevenly and create a bad seal?

3. Is it OK to mix cooling fluids? I have 1L of corsair coolant but I don't know if that's going to be enough as I'm running 2 extra thick radiators, a GPU block, CPU block, the pump/res, and all the tubing.

4. I'll have one rad on the bottom of the case and one in the top. What's the preferred intake and exhaust configuration for that sort of setup?

5. How much of my sanity am I going to lose trying to get a really clean looking result with my first hardline attempt?

Ive been working on my first hardline build all day today.

1. The plastic will only bend where you heat it. I had one tube with 2 bends very close because of clearances. I did the first 90 and let it cool. The second bend couldnt be a full 90 because of how close it was and thickness of the tube. Still looks alright. If you need multi bends in one tube and want them close, allow for a straight part between each bend. If you cant, buy extra tubing and play around til you like what you see. Buy extra anyways. I hosed up the very first bend today.

When you measure leave a little extra on each end. Its better to cut more as you need to than cut it too short. I make my first bend and then see how it lines up in the pc. Just proceed from there.

2. Very little flex room. I havent pressure or leak tested yet. We'll see!

3. No idea. Sorry.

4. Ive researched this ad nauseum. So many answers. Im runnin 3 rads and i decided to do bottom and side intakes and top vent. We'll see!

5. All of it. Just remind yourself that its your first time doing this and it aint gonna be perfect. Make it so you're happy and its functuonal. Doesnt need to win a social media prize..

power crystals
Jun 6, 2007

Who wants a belly rub??

Don't mix coolants. They all have different additives that have the potential to interact in strange ways and clog up your loop. It might be fine, but if it's not cleaning up the mess is going to be a pain in the rear end. Either get more of the same one, or as above just use distilled water (which is what I did) because it's generally only a slight difference in temperatures for far lower maintenance effort.

Solumin
Jan 11, 2013
For #4, check the manual for your case. They sometimes have suggestions for how to configure fans for optimal airflow.
Otherwise, I would think you intake from the bottom and exhaust out the top. My rule of thumb is to abide by the fact that hot air rises.

KodiakRS
Jul 11, 2012

:stonk:
Well that was fun:



There are a few things I would do differently next time but for the most part I'm pretty pleased with how it all came out. I'm really glad I decided to get a huge case. Even under sustained GPU/CPU load all of my components remain at reasonable temperatures with almost no noise so I guess the fan orientation works well. Total build time was about 12 hours. Plus about 2 hours cleaning up the mess:

namlosh
Feb 11, 2014

I name this haircut "The Sad Rhino".

KodiakRS posted:

Well that was fun:



There are a few things I would do differently next time but for the most part I'm pretty pleased with how it all came out. I'm really glad I decided to get a huge case. Even under sustained GPU/CPU load all of my components remain at reasonable temperatures with almost no noise so I guess the fan orientation works well. Total build time was about 12 hours. Plus about 2 hours cleaning up the mess:


Very nice

Passburger
May 4, 2013

KodiakRS posted:

Well that was fun:

Good Job, it looks good!

Collateral Damage
Jun 13, 2009

VelociBacon posted:

I think you're just going to have issues with one 280 or 240 radiator regardless of how thick you get it, those are high wattage draw components. I have a 3090 and a 9900k and to cool that properly I use two thick 420 rads. If it's working for you just enjoy it!

You might actually want to undervolt the gpu, would perform nearly the same and would remove a lot of energy input from the cooling system.
So I figured out why my system was running so hot. Somehow my 3080 had locked itself into running at turbo speeds all the time, even when idle. :supaburn:

One driver reinstall later and the system runs much cooler when I'm not forcing it with 3DMark, and now that the GPU isn't constantly boiling the water it runs at about 35C water temp when gaming. I still ordered another 140mm rad and I'm going to 3D print a top hat for the Meshlicious to mount it in.

AARP LARPer
Feb 19, 2005

THE DARK SIDE OF SCIENCE BREEDS A WEAPON OF WAR

Buglord

KodiakRS posted:

Well that was fun:




This looks great!

Old Balls McGee
Nov 2, 2008
Well, first foray into any sort of liquid cooling on a PC.

First real bend and I'm only out about a 1/16" from one end to the other, as best as I can measure.

I'm sure the rest won't go as easy though.

ZombieCrew
Apr 1, 2019

Old Balls McGee posted:

Well, first foray into any sort of liquid cooling on a PC.

First real bend and I'm only out about a 1/16" from one end to the other, as best as I can measure.

I'm sure the rest won't go as easy though.

I just finished my first water cooled custom loop a couple weeks ago. Nothing went down like i initially planned. Im happy its up and running and i learned a lot through the process, but ill be fixing a few bends whenever i need to do some maintence in a year or so.

Passburger
May 4, 2013
You guys should try copper tubing at some point, it's really fun to work with and looks sleek af.

(Just so no one else takes it the wrong way, not criticizing anyone nor what they chose do work with.)

Passburger fucked around with this message at 20:36 on May 29, 2023

Theophany
Jul 22, 2014

SUCCHIAMI IL MIO CAZZO DA DIETRO, RANA RAGAZZO



2022 FIA Formula 1 WDC

Passburger posted:

You guys should try copper tubing at some point, it's really fun to work with and looks sleek af.

who hurt you?

Old Balls McGee
Nov 2, 2008

Passburger posted:

(Just so no one else takes it the wrong way, not criticizing anyone nor what they chose do work with.)

All good partner, that's how I took it. I've seen some steampunk and not steampunk builds with various metal tubings and they look pretty cool.

I had initially thought about using black metal tubing, but I've always liked murdered out black matte everythings. It makes the decisions a little easier, imo. I was thinking about black coolant as well, but I think I'll just stick with clear for now. I'll have the argb plugged in, but I doubt I'll have much running, if any.

Not that it matters much, my compys have always sat on the floor anyway so I don't really look at them too much.

Kazinsal
Dec 13, 2011



Passburger posted:

You guys should try copper tubing at some point, it's really fun to work with and looks sleek af.

Someone get some holy water, we need to exorcise the spirit of Linus Tech Tips from this poor goon.

Passburger
May 4, 2013

Kazinsal posted:

Someone get some holy water, we need to exorcise the spirit of Jayz2flabs from this poor goon.

Collateral Damage
Jun 13, 2009

Collateral Damage posted:

I still ordered another 140mm rad and I'm going to 3D print a top hat for the Meshlicious to mount it in.


Went back and forth on designs a few times, but in the end decided on the simplest solution, a 4mm thick slab with countersunk screw holes that just mount directly to the fan and rad.

The fan is kind of ugly though, so I'll make a skirt that goes around the fan frame to hide it, but leave the radiator exposed.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I'm surprised it's not cheaper and more aesthetically pleasing to just use a bigger case but I'm curious how this will end up so please post pics!

Collateral Damage
Jun 13, 2009

I like the Meshlicious because it's vertical, so while it's relatively big for an ITX case it has a small footprint. It's really designed for CPU AIO + Air GPU though, so yeah it's not ideal for a full loop. But I'm working with what I have. :)

namlosh
Feb 11, 2014

I name this haircut "The Sad Rhino".
So is there a good list of the minimum stuff I’d need to grab in order to watercool a new cpu?
I water cooled in the past by buying a thermaltake kit and following the instructions to build it. For background, I got it for a steal from a CompUSA stores’ going out of business sale, so it’s been a while lol. It was separate components, not an aio which didn’t exist yet. The tubing was flexible which made things easier. I was super impressed with the results back then.
I’m considering getting a intel 13900k which puts out quite a bit of heat and considered trying to watercool again. I could just grab a AIO, but where’s the fun in that?
I have a big Antec case, plenty of fans, and a shameless disregard for electronics in general.
I live close to microcenter and would want to get almost everything from them.
Any tips would be appreciated, sorry if this was rambley

Indiana_Krom
Jun 18, 2007
Net Slacker
The minimum requirements are a water block, a pump with an integrated reservoir, a radiator, some tubing, 6 fittings, and a bottle of coolant if all you want to do is cool a CPU.

I'd also recommend a submersible temperature sensor and a motherboard that can read it, so you can program the fan speeds based on the coolant temp, but just going with the CPUs internal sensors is adequate for most people if more "bursty" and less efficient.

The main pitfalls to avoid are dyes/UV and mixing dissimilar metals (galvanic corrosion).

Theophany
Jul 22, 2014

SUCCHIAMI IL MIO CAZZO DA DIETRO, RANA RAGAZZO



2022 FIA Formula 1 WDC

namlosh posted:

So is there a good list of the minimum stuff I’d need to grab in order to watercool a new cpu?
I water cooled in the past by buying a thermaltake kit and following the instructions to build it. For background, I got it for a steal from a CompUSA stores’ going out of business sale, so it’s been a while lol. It was separate components, not an aio which didn’t exist yet. The tubing was flexible which made things easier. I was super impressed with the results back then.
I’m considering getting a intel 13900k which puts out quite a bit of heat and considered trying to watercool again. I could just grab a AIO, but where’s the fun in that?
I have a big Antec case, plenty of fans, and a shameless disregard for electronics in general.
I live close to microcenter and would want to get almost everything from them.
Any tips would be appreciated, sorry if this was rambley

idk if I'm an outlier, but having done flexible and hard tubing builds, I'd never touch hard tubing and distro plates ever again. Ignoring the fact it's an absolute ball ache to work with in the first instance and nothing ever loving matches up as it should even if you do the most vanilla EK/Lian-Li/Intel/nVidia build combo, it's absolute dogshit for even the most basic maintenance which is something you will absolutely have to do at some point. With soft tubing you can just drain the reservoir, clamp off the parts you need to isolate and do what you need to do.

Oh, and anything that isn't treated distilled water or pre-mixed clear coolant is going to either clog up your waterblocks or stain any clear/plexi parts of your system. Probably both. And if so, do you want to be loving around with a heatgun re-bending tubing which may or may not have already shredded an o-ring? Seriously, gently caress hard tubing.

Indiana_Krom
Jun 18, 2007
Net Slacker
Hard tubing and distribution blocks are all about looks, if you aren't going to show it off to nerd friends regularly and spend hours a day admiring it yourself then don't do hard tubing.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

namlosh posted:

So is there a good list of the minimum stuff I’d need to grab in order to watercool a new cpu?
I water cooled in the past by buying a thermaltake kit and following the instructions to build it. For background, I got it for a steal from a CompUSA stores’ going out of business sale, so it’s been a while lol. It was separate components, not an aio which didn’t exist yet. The tubing was flexible which made things easier. I was super impressed with the results back then.
I’m considering getting a intel 13900k which puts out quite a bit of heat and considered trying to watercool again. I could just grab a AIO, but where’s the fun in that?
I have a big Antec case, plenty of fans, and a shameless disregard for electronics in general.
I live close to microcenter and would want to get almost everything from them.
Any tips would be appreciated, sorry if this was rambley

My 9900k is completely limited by the TIM between the heat spreader and the CPU itself, to the extent where I actually did not pick up any benefit going to a massive custom water loop system with two huge radiators. My previous setup was a 280mm AIO from corsair. I have the setup now so It's going to be what I use forever but in the future I would take a look and see if a custom loop actually is any better than a very good AIO for your application.

Indiana_Krom
Jun 18, 2007
Net Slacker

VelociBacon posted:

My 9900k is completely limited by the TIM between the heat spreader and the CPU itself, to the extent where I actually did not pick up any benefit going to a massive custom water loop system with two huge radiators. My previous setup was a 280mm AIO from corsair. I have the setup now so It's going to be what I use forever but in the future I would take a look and see if a custom loop actually is any better than a very good AIO for your application.

Also 9900k, also same. Newer CPUs are even worse because the cores/dies are getting smaller with the same or even higher power consumption while the IHS is not getting thinner or more thermally conductive to compensate. I have 700 (420+280) MM worth of radiator in a cooling loop that was roughly a $700 investment and it has almost no impact on load temperatures of the CPU over a good air cooler. However my GPU is an entirely different story thanks to direct die contact with the block, it runs cooler, draws more power, and boosts higher/more consistently than it could with its stock air cooler. But the goal of my cooling loop is not raw performance, it is quiet and consistency which it delivers in spades because the pump/fan speeds are controlled by the coolant temperature and it has enormous capacity.

power crystals
Jun 6, 2007

Who wants a belly rub??

namlosh posted:

I live close to microcenter and would want to get almost everything from them.

Microcenter (at least mine) carries Bitspower kits for Intel and AMD that have everything you need. I used the AMD one as the basis for my current build. Pros: great deal price-wise, fittings are very easy to work with, pump/res has all the parts included for drain and fill ports built in including the drain port having a fancy connector that only opens when you connect the mating part, comes with everything you need for a CPU-only loop, and it even has RGB everything if that's your jam. I even managed no leaks on the first try. Cons: the included fans are kind of poo poo, the CPU block mounting at least for the AMD version was comparatively janky though it worked fine once I got it on, and the pump doesn't have a ton of head pressure. Neutral: it's flex-tube whereas most of the other kits are hardline so that's personal preference; I didn't use the included coolant (I just used distilled water) nor the RGB hub (I had a nicer one already) so I can't comment on those.

You'll spend way more on the equivalent Thermaltake or Corsair kit, and when I looked this up some months back the Thermaltake one had a reputation for pumps dying shortly after installation.

I wound up having to install a booster pump but I have a Tower 900 with a loop that needed about half a gallon of water to fill including a second 480mm radiator and a GPU block so if you build something not completely insane that shouldn't be an issue.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

Indiana_Krom posted:

Also 9900k, also same. Newer CPUs are even worse because the cores/dies are getting smaller with the same or even higher power consumption while the IHS is not getting thinner or more thermally conductive to compensate.

Intel started using solder TIM again with the 11th gen CPUs and they're way more thermally conductive now actually. But the 13900K pulls over 300W by default now so you still need to either delid or undervolt/power limit if you actually want to keep temperatures under control.

Collateral Damage
Jun 13, 2009

Guess who's an idiot and forgot to cap off the radiator before filling the system. :v:

At least I did the right thing and just ran the pump using an external power supply, so nothing fried, just need to wait for everything to dry.

Indiana_Krom
Jun 18, 2007
Net Slacker

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

Intel started using solder TIM again with the 11th gen CPUs and they're way more thermally conductive now actually. But the 13900K pulls over 300W by default now so you still need to either delid or undervolt/power limit if you actually want to keep temperatures under control.
Actually they went back to that with the 9900k. The 8000 series were the last ones to use paste TIM between the die and the heat spreader. I had a 7700k that I delidded and put liquid metal on which reduced load temps by about 15-20C.

Modern CPUs run so hot because the power density is so high it turns the head spreader into little more than an insulator.

namlosh
Feb 11, 2014

I name this haircut "The Sad Rhino".
This has to be the most comprehensive and best amount of info and help I’ve ever got from kramering into a thread… thanks so much to you all!

The price went up on the bundle I was going to buy which got me angry, but I’ll eventually buy it and let you all know how I get on :)

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VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Indiana_Krom posted:

Also 9900k, also same. Newer CPUs are even worse because the cores/dies are getting smaller with the same or even higher power consumption while the IHS is not getting thinner or more thermally conductive to compensate. I have 700 (420+280) MM worth of radiator in a cooling loop that was roughly a $700 investment and it has almost no impact on load temperatures of the CPU over a good air cooler. However my GPU is an entirely different story thanks to direct die contact with the block, it runs cooler, draws more power, and boosts higher/more consistently than it could with its stock air cooler. But the goal of my cooling loop is not raw performance, it is quiet and consistency which it delivers in spades because the pump/fan speeds are controlled by the coolant temperature and it has enormous capacity.

Sorry late reply but yeah I have 2 thicc 420 rads and yeah... I guess if and when I upgrade if this is still an issue I'll just get the new CPU lapped or whatever is the thing to do at that time.

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