|
Do you have a chunk of 99.98% silver in there? Ive never had a issue with gunk build up with it in
|
# ¿ Feb 5, 2017 12:04 |
|
|
# ¿ May 9, 2024 00:43 |
|
So having just found out that silver and nickle coated blocks dont play well....after just stripping my loop and cleaning out 2 gpu blocks and a cpu block and reading EK's study of Irregularities on the surface of water-cooling blocks http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/EK-IMAGES/Corrosion_Report_Final.pdf given that they used the following - Distilled water - 5 mL of Copper(II) sulfate pentahydrate 4.1% (high concentration to accelerate the process) as a comparison how does that compare to having a silver kill coil in a loop with distilled water?
|
# ¿ Mar 10, 2017 10:35 |
|
eames posted:What's the minimum maintenance required for a "custom loop" these days? How do you guys protect against pump failures with 24/7 setups, is it feasible to run two pumps in with Y-pieces in "failover" mode? Minimum is replacing your coolent every 12 months, having a look for very slow leaks every 6months ( just look inside for dry coolent) and as for pumps if your running a 24/7 system that never stops you can set up dual pumps in series in the loops and have them run off a controller that can sound a alarm if one fails and or turn the pc off
|
# ¿ Jun 16, 2017 23:00 |
|
Soft tubing does how ever run the risk of breaking down if the water gets too hot and then the plastix particles block up your gpy and cpu grids
|
# ¿ Jun 22, 2017 03:47 |
|
So would people be interested in seeing a Build log for a Caselabs SMA8 with a full retard custom hard line setup?
|
# ¿ Jul 16, 2017 12:12 |
|
OK so lets begin, may as well start with a parts list. Most of what you will see below I have already and some things I'm still waiting on release and/or will need them (fittings etc) First off this build is full retard and I know how much of a over kill it is, how ever just once I wanted to try building a over the top hardline rgb'ed out the rear end custom overkill PC that will give me a challenge of building it so yes i know its dumb, just enjoy it No even all of the WC parts are here in this photo 560mm Alphacool Monsta radiator 2 EK Coolstream XE 360mm radiators EK Coolstream PE 480mm Radiator Bitspower DSTOPX2 dual D5 pump mount 2 Protium Large black clear reservoirs with Etheral Dual mounts Aquaero 6XT 2 Aquacomputer D5 pumps with Aquabus Aquastream XT Flow sensor 4 Spitty9's (Fan splitters) 5 Thermaltake Riing plus 140mm RGGGGBBBBBBBB fans 5 Thermaltake Riing plus 120mm RRRRGGGGBBBBB fans EK 16mm hardline fittings and extensions and a bunch of noctua 140mm and 120mm fans to make ever radiator push push (theses are from my old build and will be out of sight) as for actual PC parts in the case its going to have the following 2 1080ti FE cards with full cover EK water blocks and back-plates a Threadripper + Mobo once thats out with a Mono block for the CPU and the VRM's on the mobo G-skill RGB ram to suit max ram speed + timings So why the over kill? well with 2 1080tis and a (hopefully 4ghz) 16c/32t Tripper im looking at 300w per gpu and if I9 is anything to go by about 400-500w from the cpu+vrms so theres a lot of heat to be cooled to fit all this i need a case.... The case will be a Caselabs SMA8, this thing is loving gigantic and with some extra brackets can mount a 560mm rad on the bottom up to a monsta 80mm thick with push pull fans AND a 60mm thick EK XE 360mm rad push pull on the other side of the lower deck. However even a lower section large enough to house a small kitty can become full very fast Well thats not so bad... What about down in the basement... Ok so its going to be a little tight but all the wires will fit...right? its not like the PSU is going to be a tight fit ether hah who would be that dumb right? oh...guess I am, As future photos will show that i will only have a area of 150mm x 80mm x 180mm to fill a 1200W psu and all the cables needed to power everything. I'll leave this monster post with a rough idea of how my tubing is going to go inside the case.
|
# ¿ Jul 17, 2017 12:46 |
|
Well the plan is with the radiator area i will have to play with and the control the aquaero gives you i can run fans and pumps at variable speeds and i expect to have fans at 5-600rpm most of the time
|
# ¿ Jul 17, 2017 20:14 |
|
I waa actually planing on modifying the connectors so that they would be connected up to the aus aurasync software
|
# ¿ Jul 19, 2017 00:42 |
|
I'll be the first to admit that they were picked for aesthetic reasons first over function as they will be the push part on push/pull set ups with noctua NF-A14 and NF-F12s doing the heavy lifting out of sight
|
# ¿ Jul 19, 2017 03:55 |
|
So it only took 4 hours but this pump block has come up looking really nice and should look great with some leds lighting up the coolent
|
# ¿ Jul 20, 2017 00:18 |
|
GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:What did you do to it? So it comes as in the bottom photo, cloudy and very rough looking so i took to it with 1200 sand paper and then a plastic polish and vola
|
# ¿ Jul 20, 2017 03:14 |
|
So its update time, And today I get to show you why you should always flush out your brand new radiators every time as look at that gunk tisk tisk EK Enhance! I also drilled my first set of pass through holes, while the underside currently looks like there is plenty of room, the plumbing connecting the 360mm to the 560mm rad will have to come up into the main build area and connect there which I think will look rather nice over just a blank plate there more to come when I find the time!
|
# ¿ Jul 27, 2017 12:51 |
|
I really need to do a update post for my build but heres a teaser
|
# ¿ Aug 16, 2017 13:17 |
|
So Time flies when your working 50 hour weeks so progress has been slow due to that and the lack of parts (PCCG were is the 16mm tubing ffs) so given that I have a 60mm rad at the front and a 35mm rad in the top the front rad at its default position would clash with the fans for the top radiator, so out comes the dremel to fix this You'll notice the difference between my first template and the final product, always get enough sleep and triple check your measurements, or at least undercut them :P things are very tight but it all fits As the basement is so tight for space the joins between the 560mm & 360mm rads has to come up into the main build area, they also will have in and out temp sensors
|
# ¿ Aug 27, 2017 11:40 |
|
As you can see both rads in the bottom are push/pull with Noctua doing the heavy lifting while the Thermaltake ones are there for show :P At this stage x399 finally came out and I got the Zenith in for test fitting and tub routing while I wait for SL to have a worthy chip to go in Having never bought a top of the line mobo before I'm blown away by how high quality everything is and I cant wait to see the Monoblock for this from EK I've worked out that the Thermaltake fan RGB's run off the addressable type so my plan is to split the fan and rgb combo plug into separate plugs so they can go to splitters (more detail to come soon) below is testing the rgb and leds for the pump block and res, while white does look good, the coolent will be EK's Navy Blue so I'm going to use blue LED's
|
# ¿ Aug 27, 2017 11:48 |
|
Mr Shiny Pants posted:Wow, you are really making an effort out of this. I just bought a Phanteks and slapped everything inside. Well I wanted to make a balls to the wall pc, I havnt even got started with fitting the PSU and the custom cabling Im going to have to do re bus bars for the LEDS or the tight fit at the front for the aquero controller
|
# ¿ Aug 27, 2017 12:52 |
|
BurritoJustice posted:I love the build Scarecrow, unfortunately they weren't out when you started but it is possible now to have both RGB lighting and high quality fans in one. Phanteks sells RGB fan frames so you can have good RGB with any white bladed fan. I stuck with the NF-P12's because I had some from my last build and I liked the performance and sound of them, never really thought about looking at other fans so you had me thinking I've hosed up getting more of them but looking at stats EK Vardar EVO Static pressure 3.16mm h20 Max RPM 2200RPM 33.5dBA NF-P12 Static pressure 1.68mm h20 Max RPM 1300RPM 19.8dBA soooo yeah :| bummer maybe I should have looked at them or the new Noctua NF-F12 fans Static pressure 3.94mm h2O Max RPM 2000RPM 29.7dBA Ah well as you say the amount of radiator surface area and fans will mean most of the time they will hardly be on (and I plan on having 4 different Fan zones that will individually turn on and off based on the loop temperature ) And thanks, been seeing other peoples Threadripper builds and holy loving poo poo they look like such rear end as for those fan RGB covers I can only wonder at how much they are going to cost (but then again I'm looking at poo poo like this https://www.pccasegear.com/products/32429/alphacool-eisschicht-1-5mm-thermal-pad-17w-mk for a loving wopping $249AUD and thinking "hmmm maybe it would be worth it for the VRMs under the monblock"
|
# ¿ Aug 28, 2017 04:36 |
|
So I got my Threadripper build finally finished (for now) and im running at: 4.1ghz 1.385v 3200Mhz 14-13-13-28-42 2 Sli 1080tis @ 2076Mhz core measured from the Vcore pinout my Zenith board has and only hitting over 60c when I run prime95 ( cpu hits 310W ) Also getting some sick mad 3Dmark scores in Firestrike like this one : 30K https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/22326827 still need to work on getting Pstate clocking to work but so far im really happy with the build besides one thing....the loving thermaltake fans ARE loving GARBAGE DO NOT BUY THEM HOLY poo poo AHHHHH Thermaltakes garbage software flat out does not work on the threadripper platform atm, I had to plug my loving laptop into the controller to change the loving fan speed and RGB colour and im looking at if I can return them as gently caress this what a joke anyway here are some photos only just fits a 170mm PSU + cables behind the 360mm rad in the bottom starting the filling process thank you jesus it POSTed Final color setup Still need to finish setting up the Aquareo software and get some custom cables for the gpus as the stock ones are just terrible looking
|
# ¿ Sep 25, 2017 01:31 |
|
yeah the plan is to have everything power down to basically off when not needed once I work out how to setup the Aquaero software right, tho the garbage thermaltake fans are currently loving up that plan and im looking at replacing them with EK fans with phantek led covers
|
# ¿ Sep 25, 2017 02:37 |
|
Sidesaddle Cavalry posted:I really like the idea of planning a loop such that no bent tubing runs are required. Great work! Yeah no bends is nice but holy poo poo piss the cost of fittings, im too scared to really look at how much i spent on them
|
# ¿ Sep 25, 2017 03:34 |
|
So im going to be returning these stupid loving Thermaltake fans. I'm looking at ether EK or corsair Corsar: 140mm https://www.pccasegear.com/products/36037/corsair-ml140-140mm-premium-magnetic-levitation-fan-twin-pack 120mm https://www.pccasegear.com/products/36032/corsair-ml120-120mm-premium-magnetic-levitation-fan-twin-pack EK: 140mm https://www.pccasegear.com/products/39979/ek-vardar-evo-140er-white-2200rpm 120mm https://www.pccasegear.com/products/40046/ek-vardar-evo-120er-2200rpm-fan-white with these over the top 120mm https://www.pccasegear.com/products/40366/phanteks-halos-120mm-rgb-led-fan-frame 140mm https://www.pccasegear.com/products/40368/phanteks-halos-140mm-rgb-led-fan-frame im thinking the corsairs but I really want to be sure this time as holy poo poo what a pain in the rear end this is
|
# ¿ Sep 27, 2017 04:00 |
|
PCCG do have a really good selection of pc parts but their warranty team can be giant cunts at times so I'm expecting them to be sooks about me returning these thermaltake fans but gently caress the idea of having to RMA the controllers to get them to work on AMD motherboards as for the grey yeah they wont pop as nice as the white EKs the ML's look to match the build better with the black frames
|
# ¿ Sep 27, 2017 04:45 |
|
rage-saq posted:Seriously the ML120s hands down beat Gentle Typhoons and Vardars (a remade GT clone that competes right on with a GT). They are insanely great. now thats the Pro versions, will the standard MLs do jsut as well?
|
# ¿ Sep 27, 2017 04:51 |
|
just hope that not having the rubber dampeners wont mean they are louder
|
# ¿ Sep 27, 2017 04:55 |
|
Ha well guess we will see how i go when I get 12 of the bloody things
|
# ¿ Sep 27, 2017 05:21 |
|
BurritoJustice posted:Yeah PCCG support is garbage, they blatantly don't give a poo poo about the Australian consumer laws and have told my mate to take them to small claims if he wanted a refund for his GPU that wasn't depreciated. I usually use Mwave or Umart because they're both 10 minutes drive away. I've only dealt with Mwave support, they're slow but they always accept returns no hassle in my experience. I'm really hoping it wont come to that but gently caress if i have to I will take them to VCAT (which is the place you would take something like this not small claims) as this is a clear slam dunk win with how the ACCC defines a major issue with a product
|
# ¿ Sep 27, 2017 06:34 |
|
underage at the vape shop posted:Report that poo poo to the ACCC. Also remember if your in victoria or the shop is in victoria your point of call to raise a issue under the accc is VCAT Fees to arrange a hearing are cheap and for issues like not following the consumer laws re refunds/returns its a slam dunk in your favor
|
# ¿ Sep 27, 2017 09:40 |
|
So does anyone know if you can control the brightness of the leds on the corsair ml150 pro led edition fans or are the just set to be on max 24/7
|
# ¿ Oct 2, 2017 03:55 |
|
Ok well lets hope the ml120 ml140s with out the rubber mounts are ok
|
# ¿ Oct 2, 2017 06:18 |
|
Don Lapre posted:Keep in mind you have to run them as pwm. Yeah did read the review on them and so far really impressed with how quite they are, they do get loud at max rpm but thats almost purly the metric gently caress ton of air they push Gonna be nice being able to control them with my aquaero too Finally worked out how to make custom fan profiles in that software
|
# ¿ Oct 2, 2017 21:23 |
|
Scholtz posted:Is there no SLI bridge? he has a sli ribbon
|
# ¿ Oct 4, 2017 06:32 |
|
Indiana_Krom posted:I decided my 7700k was running too hot for all the money I spent on this 420mm custom loop cooler, so I grabbed some thermal grizzly conductonaut and a rockit 88 delid tool. Yielded exactly 20C reduction in load temperatures under the same conditions. The factory thermal compound Intel uses really is complete garbage. There really is zero defence for using tim besides saving a few bucks and possible lost dies from the process, i just hope and continues to put presure on intel forcing them back to soldiering
|
# ¿ Oct 15, 2017 03:19 |
|
SlayVus posted:JayzTwoCent just did a video on Primochill's Vue liquid, after a couple months of use he saw no gunk up of the blocks and says it even cleaned the blocks. wouldnt be surprised if the particals in the Vue fluid are having a abrasive effect on the gunk, would love to see how it fairs after 6+ months of use tho (maybe I'll stick it in a system I have at home and see how it goes)
|
# ¿ Nov 19, 2017 03:38 |
|
Ive got a sma8 and have zero regrets about it, you can fit so many god drat radiatiors in it From memory I have Top mount 45mm quad 120mm Front mount 60mm tri 120 Left side of the bottom has a 80mm quad 140mm Right side has a 60mm 360mm and still (just) fits a 180mm length psu And all that is for a 1950x and sli 1080tis with a water temp of less then 10c delta to ambient at very low fan speeds
|
# ¿ Apr 22, 2018 22:27 |
|
GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:Build quality looks awesome. I'm impressed at how much they cram into a small space, and the layouts logical, too (I have no idea how some case designs are made the way they are). https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3786165&pagenumber=15&perpage=40#post476729589 have a scroll down that page and you will see some of the photos I took of my build
|
# ¿ Apr 23, 2018 06:37 |
|
Xerophyte posted:
-3m of tubing should do you just fine, if you cant find matte white hosing what you could do instead is get a clear tubing but get a pastal white coolent -if your doing soft tubing then you will only need fittings to connect it all to each point cpu block, radiator etc so 2 fittings per item in the loop though you may want to think about a drain port of some sort as when it comes time to draining the loop you will be thanking yourself so much. -if they have more then 2 ports then yes typically they will come with blanking plugs for the excess ports -elbows and rotary joints can be good for even soft tubing to ensure your not putting kinks or tight bends in the loop so it will depend on how your going to route your tubing. -yes thats fine as like you said the aluminum is not in contact with the loop parts -as im in I cant comment on this last part sorry and finally if your going to put a water block on a 2080ti, just get the reference model PCB its more then up to spec to over perform, as just like pascal, turing is voltage locked so all the extra bells and whistles that AIBs put on are useless once you put a custom wc block on top! God I look at that part list and slowly weep when I think how much my cooling loop cost, I spent more then that entire loop in just fittings !
|
# ¿ Oct 17, 2018 11:07 |
|
Since air is compressible and water is not, having less air would increase pressure, assuming your pump was able to provide a head pressure of anything meaningful Since this isn't the case fill with water until there's enough to keep the pump wet and to a level your happy with
|
# ¿ Dec 23, 2020 00:53 |
|
Air is very compressible example a scuba tank
|
# ¿ Dec 23, 2020 04:10 |
|
DrDork posted:Sure, with a loooot of effort. A SCUBA air compressor does like 3-5000+ PSI. Your CLC loop will start leaking at like...20-30 PSI, and even the pumps themselves normally aren't specced for over 100 PSI. Totally different categories there. You're not producing meaningful compression with a water cooling pump. Its still valid, take the same volume of water as what's been put in a CLCand see how far you can compress that volume down vs if it was just full of air Air compresses more then water as its gas vs liquid and having a tiny bit of air or 3cm of air in your res makes no difference besides aesthetics so long as your pump stays wet
|
# ¿ Dec 23, 2020 06:07 |
|
|
# ¿ May 9, 2024 00:43 |
|
Going from room temperature to 40-45c is a un remarkable temperature difference in terms of pressure change inside your res, a car radiator is run at higher then atmospheric pressure becuase it increases the thermal efficiency of the engine itself. Having a tiny bubble of air or a large air pocket makes zero difference
|
# ¿ Dec 23, 2020 10:19 |