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Huh. Well, alright then. Also, recommendations on an affordable fan controller? Not sure if I can really trust my header to run a ton of fans off it.
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Nov 27, 2016 03:52
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rage-saq posted:What mobo? I have an 8 fan pwm splitter that pulls power from a psu lead and signal from the mobo. I use the excellent Asus thermal radar 2 to control it based off some inline temp sensors. Asus P8P67 Evo. I've got my pump and two fans running off the CPU Fan header and three cheap 120mms running off the PWR Fan header. Apparently I have an untapped Chassis Fan header though....hmm.
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Nov 27, 2016 04:02
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Don Lapre posted:Ml120 basically has to run true pwm All my headers are 4pin, wouldn't that suggest they're PWM?
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Nov 27, 2016 04:34
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Don Lapre posted:No. All pwn headers are 4 pin. All 4 pin headers are not pwm. Your manual will give the pinout data on your fan headers. drat. Looks like only the CPU fan header is PWM. CHA_FAN1 just ties it to 5v, which I presume is equivalent to a 100% duty cycle. My CPU_FAN header supports 1A. How much power do fans drain? Is there an adapter that lets my fans run off my PSU while co-opting the CPU PWM signal?
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Nov 27, 2016 05:06
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Hmm. Well, I'm doing some math here. My pump is an EKWB pump res combo, using a DDC 3.1. They don't list this normally, as it's only available in their kits, and I'm not sure what the power draw is. I've seen a few generic figures for DDC 3.1s of about 10w, which would put it at 834 mA current. My header is rated for 1A, and I'm currently running two 3pin fans on the same header. As I apparently have no actual PWM fans, do you think I could get away with ML120s slaved to the same PWM signal as the pump? My splitter apparently handles the signal properly, so I could just move the 3pin fans to a splitter on the chassis header and put the ML120s on the CPU header with the pump...
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Nov 27, 2016 06:17
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From my mobo's manual:
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Nov 27, 2016 08:24
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Those Aqueros only support one PWM channel unless you get to the expensive 6 series. drat. e: I wonder if I could repurpose a Raspi as a PWM controller...
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Nov 27, 2016 08:47
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rage-saq posted:A few things 1: The only electrical connection the DDC has is the 4pin fan header. It has no SATA or molex connection. 2: You've got a point. It's pretty damned silent, even when I had it hooked up to the 3pin testing adapter (and was thus running 100%). If it doesn't jeopardize the lifetime of the pump, I could plug it in to the chassis fan header...provided that header can handle the current draw. I'll email ASUS. 3: I've disabled the warnings on the CPU_FAN not being present, it should work fine.
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Nov 27, 2016 18:05
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Alereon posted:Thanks for the info, that's ridiculous as there's no reason to even include a 4-pin connector if you're not going to send a PWM control signal, 4-pin fans plug into 3-pin headers just fine. I guess I'm spoiled by good motherboards with speed control on every header. Yeah, I found that strange. PWM 4pin fans have their fourth pin pulled internally to 5v, right? Truga posted:Yeah, I got hosed by asus "4 4 pin fan connectors" marketing once, I'll be super careful next time I'm buying expensive motherboards. The CPU headers are PWM (but only the same signal for both I ended up ordering one of those. To be safe, I'm trying to figure out how much power I can pull from my PSU over a SATA Power connector. It just lists 12v output as a whole, which I hope means I don't need to worry about it at all.  And to complicate PWM, I've found there are headers/controllers that don't actually send a PWM control signal on a 4th pin, but still claim PWM. Turns out they apply PWM to the 12v power supply, turning fans on and off rapidly. Sigh.
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Nov 28, 2016 19:57
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), and the other two are just 5v on pwm and use voltage to control speed 
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I'm just disappointed about the confusion in terms that has arisen by all of this
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Nov 28, 2016 20:05
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Eletriarnation posted:This page indicates 4.5A on each rail, which sounds reasonable but I have no idea how you'd verify it. Seems like the general specification for a SATA power connector, and I can't imagine a PSU not supplying up to that, so I should be good. My pump can draw around .8-1A through its 4pin header, and I'll only have a few fans on it as well.
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Nov 28, 2016 20:14
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I used to have an absurd amount of drives in this system. I'm cutting down on them, but iirc I should still have 2x 3.5" HDDs, 1x 2.5" HDD, and 3x 2.5" SSDs in it. My next computer upgrade is a bunch of 4TB HDDs to replace the 2TBs in my NAS, so I can get rid of all the drives in my personal computer. Hoarding gets expensive  e: Looks like the EKWB DDC 3.1 pump draws 6W, according to their rep, which puts its maximum at half an amp of draw. I might not have to worry about consumption off the CPU fan header, actually. PerrineClostermann fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Nov 29, 2016 |
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Nov 28, 2016 20:16
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Looks like my EK coolant concentrate didn't work. Got growth everywhere. What's the best way to clean a radiator and pump? e: actually... This stuff is looking particularly fine and evenly spread. More like a powder residue. Any idea what it might be? Copper CPU block, ZMT tubing, EK PE radiator.  
PerrineClostermann fucked around with this message at 09:56 on Dec 3, 2016 |
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Dec 3, 2016 06:48
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Yep, used distilled. My best guess is that it's some sort of leeching from the tubes, but these EK ZMT tubes claim to have no plasticizer to leech. CPU block doesn't look corroded at all. Every part in the loop is from EK's L360 kit as well. I don't get it. I cleaned up the loop and put it together with new ZMT tubing and added another radiator and GPU block to the system. I'm going to keep a close eye on it for now. What other tubing do you guys recommend, in case I need to go with something else? I'd prefer to stick with 3/8" 5/8" so I can retain my fittings.
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Dec 5, 2016 23:37
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I believe they slap little heatsinks on them and let them cool via air. I wonder if EKWB would ship their predator with a GPU block?
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Dec 6, 2016 22:45
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GutBomb posted:with thermal epoxy. Not planning on going back then, huh?
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Dec 7, 2016 00:26
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redeyes posted:I may/probably need to cool a ASUS ROG Strix RX480 overclocked out the wazoo along with a 6800K at 4.0-4.2Ghz. Any help is appreicated. I am very new to water cooling but handy and was a plumber (a real one) if it helps my build. Well, if you're going to do a proper custom loop, expect to spend some money. They're fun projects, and do a pretty good job of cooling (my 1070 never gets over 35c), and it's easier than ever to put one together. I read a little bit about what you were doing in the other thread, but just make sure you actually "need" to watercool. Most scenarios don't require watercooling. That said, it's easy to end up enjoying doing it. There are main two options for water cooling. All-in-one/Closed loop coolers, or a custom/open loop. Most consumers go with AIOs. These are ready to use, prefilled/assembled coolers that tend to integrate a pump into either the water block that sits on a component or the radiator. They're dead simple to use and generally don't have much of a leak issue. One of the more popular examples of an AIO is the Corsair H100. Most of these are CPU only coolers, though some GPUs feature "hybrid" coolers that use an AIO to cool the GPU and VRAM, and use a small fan to cool the VRMs. The AIO's radiator mounts to a typical fan mount, and come in several sizes. Open or Custom loops are classical water cooling. You use discrete parts to create your own loop, adding radiators and waterblocks as you see fit. This can get pretty pricey, especially if you go with a high quality/premium manufacturer like EKWB. This is also where you have the highest chance of leak problems, but generally you won't have any issues. I've done tubing twice as a newbie with no issues. Your major components are the Pump, Reservoir, Radiators, Water Blocks, Tubing, and Fittings. The pump is pretty self explanatory. Your Res can come in multiple forms, including combined with your pump in one unit. They provide an easy place to fill/bleed your loop, and ensure the pump is always fed with fluid. Radiators generally come in sizes corresponding to various fan mounts. 120mm and 140mm variants are the most common, with their width described as a multiple of those numbers. A 3x 120mm radiator, for instance, is generally referred to as a 360mm radiator. A good rule of thumb for cooling without worrying about excessive fan speeds is 120mm of radiator surface for every component, an additional 120mm for every overclocked component, and another 120mm just for some headroom. I don't know how an overclocked 6800k ranks up against more typical CPUs, but you'd probably be fine with this rule. My own system uses a 240mm and 360mm radiator for a 2600k and GTX 1070 SC. Your water blocks are the actual physical component that transfers heat from the PC to the fluid. Their design is important, so it's a good idea to make sure you get a quality one for whatever you're trying to cool. CPU blocks are often designed so that they cool the area directly above the CPU die most efficiently. GPU blocks come in two types. Universal ones are nice, since you can use them for multiple types/generations of GPUs, but they usually only cool the GPU itself, and the VRAM. Like the previously mentioned hybrid coolers, you'd have to cool the VRMs another way. The other type is a full cover block, which fully covers the entire GPU and cools it. They're aesthetic and awesome, and you should totally get one if you can justify the price. Tubing and Fittings work together to connect every part in your loop. Each part needs at least two fittings, one for an input, and one for an output (unless it's a combination unit, like a Combo Pump+Res, in which case you need only two fittings for the combination). For the most part, order of your parts doesn't matter too much, as the absolute temperature difference in your fluid from one point in the loop to another isn't large. You just want to have your reservoir before your pump, to make sure it's kept fed. You may also want to put in a drain port, to make maintenance easier. The two major types of fittings are barbed fittings and compression fittings. Google them to get a proper idea of what they look like. Compression fittings are considered better, and they're what I use. The size of your tubing determines what specific fittings you need. Just make sure they match. Tubing can be soft or hard, usually some sort of plastic or rubber for the former, and glass or similar for the later. Hard tubing is a bit of a pain to work with, while soft tubing can sometimes have their plasticizer leeched into the fluid, depending on the material. iirc, Primochill LRT is one of the go-tos for soft tubing. I recommend soft tubing for practical purposes, though hard tubing looks pretty sweet. As with computers, the major difficulty with water cooling is part selection. Putting it all together is surprisingly simple, once you have the right parts. Luckily a lot of manufacturers make cooling kits that give you everything you need for a basic loop. I bought an EKWB L360 kit, which set me up for a pretty decent CPU loop. Add a GPU block, an extra radiator, and four more fittings, and you're set. Oh, and there's an increasing demand for "semi-custom" loops, which function/are sold like AIOs, but are expandable. They're kinda neat, but I don't know too much about them. I hope this overview is detailed enough to help you figure out what you need/want to do, without getting overly detailed.
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Jan 16, 2017 06:07
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EKWB also offers to pre fill any block you want, so you could theoretically create a semi custom loop without touching the fluid.
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Jan 16, 2017 07:51
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Unfortunately this is where passive radiator towers make sense* *Don't get a passive radiator tower unless you're going full hilarity. In which case take pictures.
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Jan 23, 2017 04:12
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General rule of thumb is five years, I think? That said, my H50 still works fine.
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Jan 28, 2017 02:14
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What kind of tubing are you using?
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Feb 4, 2017 20:27
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I honestly have no idea. It sounds like you've got growth, but you've done a lot of work to remove growth, it seems.
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Feb 5, 2017 06:02
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So am interaction between silver and nickel caused this?
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Feb 5, 2017 19:05
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Did you take any pictures of your residue?
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Feb 5, 2017 21:58
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VulgarandStupid posted:Oh hello: Full copper? Sounds expensive. Oh wow, it is. Just do this! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6HfXy8A3O4
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Feb 16, 2017 02:50
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well why not posted:Well, he had a lot of help. Linus' practical skills are very, very hit & miss. Linus Drill Tips
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Feb 19, 2017 19:57
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Luke is a hell of a lot less cringey than Linus, which is always a plus
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Feb 21, 2017 19:39
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Linus Drill Tips
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Feb 22, 2017 16:17
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My H50 was doing fine on my 2600k for five years before I went custom, just FYI. I don't know if I'd continue using it after five years though.
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Mar 1, 2017 17:25
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... That makes me much less likely to reuse it 
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Mar 1, 2017 17:42
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The other 10% is "it's cool designing and putting together a loop." Basically rule of cool no matter which way you spin it.
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Mar 3, 2017 04:17
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Ouch.
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Mar 3, 2017 06:44
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I used an adapter to run tons of soft water through it from my faucet, followed by lots of nearly boiling distilled water poured in and swished around. My rads were EKWB so they were already fairly clean though.
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Mar 3, 2017 17:05
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Speaking of rad cleaning, I've seen people use micron filters and a big bucket of water to just pump through a radiator for hours, a kind of lazy way to do it. Does that sound remotely feasible?
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Mar 3, 2017 18:33
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It's just an organic computer, that's all!
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Apr 14, 2017 08:08
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I'm honestly a little curious how you knocked two off, they're a little difficult to hit...
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Jun 11, 2017 00:07
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Ouch. I've fallen prey to those impulses before, but luckily never anything too expensive...
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Jun 11, 2017 01:40
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My fixit toolkit had a nice bit set that's served me well so far
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Jun 11, 2017 02:55
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eames posted:What's the minimum maintenance required for a "custom loop" these days? How do you guys protect against pump failures with 24/7 setups, is it feasible to run two pumps in with Y-pieces in "failover" mode? I don't use any sort of backups or anything. My pump "just works," and I've flushed the system once. Afaik, the whole setup has been relatively hassle-free. DDC pump+res, water and gpu block, 240 and 360mm radiators, all in series.
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Jun 16, 2017 22:58
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Leak tests actually aren't too bad as far as I remember. Generally if you didn't do it right, you know quickly
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Jun 21, 2017 02:19
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