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Idiot should have rented a backhoe and done this: http://www.overclock.net/t/671177/12-feet-under-1000-square-feet-of-geothermal-pc-cooling
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# ¿ Sep 8, 2016 20:27 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 11:40 |
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PromethiumX posted:I feel like one of those radiators might be completely unnecessary. Never.
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# ¿ Sep 25, 2016 08:50 |
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Anyone have a Lian-Li PC-V3000? I currently have a mixed 140mm and 120mm setup but it is extremely hacky with cut-outs and drilled mounting holes. Looking to move to something a little more secure. The last Lian-Li case I had was from 2005 when 80mm Tornado fans were the hottest poo poo on the planet; just wondering what the quality is like these days.
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# ¿ May 27, 2018 09:53 |
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Probably going to re-do my setup later this year. My current loop has been running since about 2013 and it's time for an upgrade and probably a pump replacement. What do you guys think about EK's monoblocks? VRM cooling definitely sounds worthwhile but I'm wondering if it sacrifices CPU cooling in exchange.
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# ¿ Aug 3, 2018 19:19 |
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Combat Pretzel posted:You'd figure that with the release of the new Threadrippers, that EKWB would revise and unfuck their sTR4 block for the MLC series. I guess not. Bitspower apparently makes a selection of monoblocks as well, they generally have a good reputation.
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# ¿ Aug 17, 2018 01:43 |
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Modmymods.com is having a pretty good sale at the moment - discounts on their already low prices. I picked up a few things I guess I'll be re-using a couple rads but this is at least the core of my next build. Going to pick up an Aquacomputer Quadro and a couple temperature sensors to manage all the PWM fans, including one that I'll make a 3-d pointed shroud of the point at the VRMs.
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# ¿ Aug 17, 2018 03:05 |
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Combat Pretzel posted:Is there any decent supplier that's pretty good quality but cheaper than the EKWB stuff? I specced out some Threadripper cooling, and I'm at like 500€ ;_; Watercool.de (Heatkiller) parts are definitely higher quality than EKWB, for around the same price. Just got everything in and I'm kind of shocked at how heavy and well machined everything is, especially this reservoir:
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# ¿ Aug 26, 2018 22:35 |
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Scarecow posted:-3m of tubing should do you just fine, if you cant find matte white hosing what you could do instead is get a clear tubing but get a pastal white coolent I feel your pain with fittings (this isn't even all of them): So I'm about to embark on an all-straight, acyrilic tube adventure with a shitload of passthrough fittings in a PC-V3000. It's got a similar configuration to the SMA8 but the "basement" isn't a completely separate compartment. Got any tips for measuring/drilling the holes for the passthroughs? My plan is to just build the thing, one link at a time, and measure out the tubes (one end compressed in the fitting with the other end "bare") until the bare end is flush with the case, then mark the circle on top of some painters tape. Once I've got the circle drawn (and re-measured/triple checked), I'll take it all apart (so metal shards don't get trapped in bad places) and use a 19mm hole saw with some drill oil to cut the basic circle. I've got a tungsten cutting attachment for my Dremel that I'll use to chamfer the edges and expand the hole to 20mm (for the Barrow fittings I've got). Then I'll install the fittings, and trim the the bare end of the tube using this thing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074B3PY7W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_Yml4BbZG3HT0P Until everything is nice and snug. Do I have this figured out or am I missing something critical? I haven't actually cut anything yet except some tubes to test this little thing (which kicks rear end for cutting acrylic tubing): https://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-62136.html Now I just need to figure out how to attach a diamond disk to it so I can eventually replace the tubing with boro glass forbidden dialectics fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Nov 6, 2018 |
# ¿ Nov 6, 2018 00:07 |
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A heavy package from China arrived! I wonder what's inside? Oh geez ok this is a bit better First time with hard tubing and cutting holes in cases, turns out if you just use a ruler and some tape and carefully measure and mark things, it's not too bad!
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# ¿ Nov 11, 2018 07:49 |
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At the point now where I can't really do much more until I get my motherboard and CPU. I've ordered the 9900k finally (Newegg had them in stock for $569, decided to jump on it before the stock situation gets any worse) and it's on it's way to Silicon Lottery for delidding. I'm planning on using an EVGA z390 Dark which is coming "mid December" according to their latest feed. Bottom rad is an XSPC RX480 V3. It's a really tight fit - even with soft tubing, you need some funky angled connectors and it ends up looking pretty gnarly. I think this is a pretty good solution - I used adjustable couplers to bulkhead fittings through the front of the case. There's about 50mm of clearance in the front - plenty for angled fittings and soft tubes. This shows the couplers - there's a temperature sensor on the top (this will be the "out" sensor at the end of the radiator part of the loop). The idea being that I can route a bunch of soft tubing to the opposite side of the case where you can't see it. Bulkhead fittings on the other side of the "basement", opposite the radiator compartment. Skip forward a bit - test fitting fans and the front radiator, with the res and filter mounted. You can see the drain port on the bottom right of the 480 radiator. Just a Barrow ball valve that I'll hook a barb/soft tube up to. The front is a HWlabs GTS360. Since a 420 rad will be going up to, there's zero clearance to route tubes. So, the same thing up top with adjustable couplers: This is all hidden by the front of the case. I tested it and it does take a small toll on airflow, but nothing significant with this much radiator. Aquaero 6LT and a bunch of Splitty9s to run a test on the fans. The final build will be much cleaner with holes drilled in the case to properly mount everything. Another D5 hides underneath the main res. It's the Aquacomputer PWM version, and since I'll have a flow meter, I plan on tweaking both pumps to average out the flow rate to ~1GPM at idle and ~1.5GPM after a certain temperature delta. Since I have a lot of fittings and restrictive pieces, I figured, why not?
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# ¿ Nov 23, 2018 02:12 |
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Looks much cleaner than my first build! You could probably route that top tube through the cable gasket right above the motherboard, through the back, then out through the 3.5" drive bays on the other side. Might look a little cleaner than having it run across the front.
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# ¿ Nov 24, 2018 01:30 |
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Indiana_Krom posted:As for temps, I set BIOS to let 250w through this i9-9900k, threw Prime 95 v28.5 (AVX) small fft at it which made it pull 196w, and it hit about 80C after a couple minutes. Yeah, unfortunately even with a really good water setup, the bottleneck for heat transfer is still the processor itself. The IHS, the somewhat lovely solder, the extra thick silicon on the top of the die. So pop that IHS off and get sanding
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# ¿ Nov 24, 2018 17:54 |
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Malcolm XML posted:Lmao they really shat out these soldered heat spreaders as quickly as they could. Yeah I'll probably go direct die or get one of those Rockit heatspreaders. Most IHS in the past have been slightly convex (to increase the mounting pressure iirc) but this is kind of crazy.
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# ¿ Nov 26, 2018 01:15 |
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Skarsnik posted:On that note, what's the best way of cleaning out a loop these days? Not looked into it in a while and my loop is due a flush Mayhems Part 1 and 2. Part 1 if you want to take it all apart, since it's only used to clean the radiators. Part 2 is basically a detergent that you run through the loop.
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# ¿ Dec 15, 2018 01:30 |
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It's finally done I burnt out the LED strip that came with the case by putting 12V through it so I'll probably experiment with another one to figure out where to put it. The reservoir side is kind of dark...but I kind of like the subtle effect. Also considering putting in a bypass for the filter since it absolutely kills the flow rate - I max out around 0.6GPM with TWO D5s in serial at max speed. But that's going to wait for my fingertips to heal and for a coolant change in...a year. In the meantime, though, I think it's doing alright: forbidden dialectics fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Dec 27, 2018 |
# ¿ Dec 27, 2018 00:51 |
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Indiana_Krom posted:My single CPU+GPU loop with a 420mm radiator (3x 140) cost about $650 from EKWB. PC water cooling has come a long way since I first got in to it (which was about 22 years ago), but it has remained ridiculously expensive. My loop was almost $500 in fittings alone. Don't get into it for performance reasons; get into it if you're interested in it and treat it as a hobby.
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# ¿ May 25, 2020 06:18 |
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Nomyth posted:Okay, it looks like then what I really need to do is address the source of my brainworms: what's a good way to prove to myself that I can turn down the fans and pump on what I have in my current system? The problem here is that I ended up putting together a ridiculously obscure Alphacool 280mm AIO monstrosity riding on my 9900K and my motherboard happens to be an equally obscure terrible choice (Supermicro) and I when I built this system spring of 2019 I hadn't really even given much thought at all to noise control because I stopped caring after playing around trying to get the all-core OC stable Get and Acquaero. https://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/monitoring/controllers/21577/aquacomputer-aquaero-6-lt-usb-fan-controller You can get one of these to monitor your coolant temperature: https://www.aquatuning.us/water-coo...aero-5/6?c=6605 It comes with several air-temperature probes. Stick one near your air intake, and set up a virtual sensor that take coolant temp minus air temp to give you a coolant/air temperature delta. Set all of your fans/pumps with a set-point controller to automatically maintain whatever target delta you want. I run mine at 6C above air temperature but that's probably aggressive.
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# ¿ Dec 7, 2020 22:43 |
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Just a heads up. The Quadro can't do "virtual" sensors like the Aquaero can, i.e., you can't make a water/air delta temperature and control your fans off of that. You can only control it off of absolute temperatures. That may or may not be a dealbreaker for you
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# ¿ Mar 19, 2021 22:42 |
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spckr posted:My octo can definitely do virtual sensors. Not sure why the Quadro would be different. It’s the same software Product segmentation, I'm guessing. It's probably the exact same hardware, too, they just artificially disable that feature on the cheaper device. The Octo definitely looks to be the best value overall, though. Kerosene19 posted:Can confirm that Quadro can do virtual sensors. I'm running two currently. Oh...hmm. This must be new, then, because when I bought mine a couple years ago it definitely couldn't. Time to do some tweaking!
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# ¿ Mar 20, 2021 21:23 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 11:40 |
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Warmachine posted:Yep, echoing what everyone else is saying: My Octo does virtual sensors just fine. I figured out my confusion: the virtual sensors that the Quadro/Octo can do require the Aquasuite software to be running on the host machine - the Aquaero doesn't, i.e., you can configure the sensors, it stores them on the device itself, then you can unplug it from the host machine and even use it in a completely different computer, without Aquasuite. This may or may not matter for your particular use case - for example, I use a Quadro to control the fans in my headless file/Plex/etc server. Not exactly something I can/want to run Aquasuite on, so it's kind of a bummer that the Quadro doesn't work like that. I have them control based on a couple of set points I tweaked based on harddrive temperatures/room temperature, so it's not a huge deal or anything, but I would be so much nicer to be able to do delta temperatures on the device itself.
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# ¿ Mar 23, 2021 19:01 |