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Bob Morales posted:I figure at some point you'll run out of space on the 500GB drive, you'll have more breathing room with the bigger drive before that happens. He's still putting the MX500 in his system. It's not difficult to shove all your games onto a different drive.
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Aug 2, 2018 01:25
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I've had motherboards with options for faster bios booting, which would go from power on to windows startup in a couple seconds. Win7 and a much older SSD so not super fast after that, but the bios was quick. I always turn those things off though, I only reboot my desktop once a month so don't much care about boot time. And I like having more time to hit whatever key for bios setup.
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Aug 9, 2018 15:15
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Harik posted:Would anyone consider a used 860 pro/960 pro from amazon warehouse? I figure there's not much you can do to them that won't just make it DoA (and warrantyable). Does the warehouse deal make them cheaper than a new Evo or equivalent TLC NVMe drive? Does your use case actually need a Pro? One of those would have to be a Yes for me to consider it.
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Aug 26, 2018 04:35
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On a system with just a SSD you really want to keep their free space needs in mind, because you don't have a spare drive to throw downloads or other temporary crap. So if 1TB is going to be 90% full right off the bat with your current stuff, that will be a thing to work within. Not a deal breaker but a thing you'll want to manage. How much free space your SSD needs depends a lot on your use patterns.
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Sep 2, 2018 18:20
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OTOH when adata puts stuff on big sales you might look at it as a leading indicator. They get all their flash from the fab companies with recognized names, so their bread and butter is previous-generation stuff that's being replaced, or surplus stock. So if you need a 1TB drive right now go for it. I'm really not sure why they're so prominent on the bad list vs other no-nomes like Silicon Power or Patriot. They use slower controllers and have DRAM-less drives (pretty sure that SU650 has no dram). That's what you're paying for, or rather not paying for. There's definitely been times where their crap drives are only being sold for a small discount vs something like an Evo at which point they're a bad buy. I wouldn't buy that NVMe one for example. But if you're just idly considering moving to all solid state or impulse shopping, I'd say hold off. All the reports are that there's a flash oversupply, plus stuff like QLC coming out that's gonna push even more downward price competition.
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Sep 12, 2018 04:46
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redeyes posted:Just look at failure rates for that brand. I'm reminded of how everyone thought seagate made the most reliable hard drives until backblaze started putting out hard data.
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Sep 15, 2018 16:54
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Xenomorph posted:5.5 years? It's notable because the seagate drives of that series are now known to be poo poo for reliability. But not quite so poo poo that it's worth pre-emptively throwing them away like the old deathstars. my HDD that died earlier this summer was a ST2000DM. I knew it was sketchy so I didn't have any personal data on it other than a few videogame saves. But even losing poo poo that I could torrent again is annoying. Mine had a lot of power on hours racked up, more than Atomizer it sounds like.
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Sep 20, 2018 00:57
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Luceo posted:Just had a bit of a scare with Crucial M4 in my mid-2012 Macbook Pro. OS hard-locked, rebooted, no drive visible to the computer. Tried another drive and it was visible. I was about to order a replacement when I came across a forum post about resetting the M4 by leaving the computer powered on to BIOS (or in the Mac's case, boot selection screen) for 20 minutes, powering down, removing the drive for a minute, then putting it back in. Did that and voila, the drive's back and seemingly fine. The M4 was the reason that Crucial was on the avoid list in the old thread. This was a known flaw in that drive that starts showing up after 5200 hours of use. So as far as data integrity it's ok, but IIRC they never really fully resolved the wonky stuff going on with that drive. You may run into this problem again. At the very least you should update the firmware. On a 2012 macbook a newer SSD isn't gonna do much to make it feel faster, that thing is just old. However, I personally wouldn't feel great having an M4 in my primary system.
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Sep 28, 2018 06:15
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makere posted:I used to run 120GB SSD as a dedicated Windows drive, would have to do clean up monthly and barely had any space left. With 250GB you will have a much nicer life with less time spent on managing free space (how cheap is your time?) obviously yours is very valuable, since you didn't have any time to read the post anothergod posted:Swapping internals sounds super shady. It's shady, though in your case not really worth caring about since you just need a generic SSD of no particular spec and a kingston is pretty much that. But for $1 more I'd get the Crucial. Alternately post a WTB is SAmart if you're not in a rush. With SSD prices so low there may be people upgrading to bigger drives who have a small one to ditch. anothergod posted:If I need to do serious file storage, I might get a 7200RPM drive for recording video to, but... I think that's all I need, yeah?
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Oct 6, 2018 00:47
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Combat Pretzel posted:I think the main issue with data getting fragmented on the file system level is that the MFT grows, the more fragments there are. true but it seems like it'd take real effort to get so bad that it actually became an issue. 1kb can fit quite a few pointers. see this nicely illustrated and easy to understand ms blog about file records
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Oct 14, 2018 17:21
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SweetMercifulCrap! posted:Is there any benefit to doing a fresh install of Windows onto an SSD over migrating the OS from an HDD? I used Samsung’s migration tool with what was already a pretty fresh Windows 10 installation, so if there were a benefit it wouldn’t be too big of a deal to just do another fresh installation. A minor one: SSD have a small performance gain when they align the file system's allocation units with the SSD 4kb pages*. I think windows 10 is now smart enough to do that automatically at install on SSDs (it's been 3/3 correct for me). I don't know if HDD partitions migrated to a SSD would be. I suppose if anyone would pay attention to something like that it would be the SSD's own toolset, but I dunno. *note this does not mean 4kb allocation units, just that the allocation units are never straddling the boarder between 2 pages. here is a calculator to check alignment
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Oct 16, 2018 18:46
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The problem with that Silicon Power drive is that it's a complete mystery what's inside it. They say MLC NAND, which makes me think they're the remainder stock of drives with a 2014-era Phison controller and Toshiba 2d NAND. If so, those are old and weren't good even when they were new. However, it's fine for light applications -- where they completely fall apart is mixed random read & write stuff. If your laptop is just an internet / email / netflix / typing machine that's ok. But they also say SLC cache, which is a real wtf. Maybe they're calling the DRAM a SLC cache? Because the old S60 at least had DRAM, which is why they're still better than an Adata SU650. But if it actually has a SLC cache this is yet another set of new grab-bag guts. My biggest worry if I were considering buying it would be that they've been sitting around some unconditioned warehouse a few years of temperature swings.
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Oct 16, 2018 22:58
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Atomizer posted:The SLC cache thing is very common, actually; TLC drives in particular do this, where part of the flash (tens of GB generally) operates in SLC mode (or "pseudo SLC") as a secondary cache (with or without DRAM.) Oh yeah, but the Phison S8 that was in the original S60 (see review I linked) definitely did not. What I was getting at is it implies a new mystery-meat controller if it has a SLC cache, or a wrong spec description. Binary Badger posted:Any thoughts on the Crucial P1? Amazon has the 500 GB and 1TB at $110 and 220 respectively. I have a hard time imagining the case where you actually need NVMe yet don't care about the downsides of QLC. 100TB write endurance is fine for home consumers, and as this thread repeats endlessly home consumers don't need NVMe. The target audience seems to be benchmarks. I'm not scared of QLC and would definitely buy a QLC drive in the future, given a appropriate discount vs TLC and evidence that it has equal data integrity. I look forward to a 2 or 3 TB QLC drive replacing my spinning rust. I don't see NVMe or a premium price anywhere in that scenario.
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Oct 17, 2018 23:34
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Yeah, I just don't understand the blind disdain/hatred some people clearly have for M.2 drives. Hate: M.2 sata drives being sold at a premium because people who don't know the difference between M.2 and NVMe think they're the better drives. And then someone has to spend another $10 to buy that case thing. Mild disdain: Knowing the difference and still buying a sata M.2 because "clean case with no wires" or "airflow", which to me falls into the same general category as liking RGB leds on everything. People can spend their money & trick out their ricer PC however they want, I ain't gonna stop them. But I'm gonna roll my eyes a bit. (The airflow thing is an extremely specious argument. Anyone who imagines a single sata cable strung in front / behind a fan will have detectable performance impact is crazy. And it's not difficult to keep thin cables out of the main air paths, even in an older case with limited routing options.)
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Oct 23, 2018 02:40
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owls or something posted:Where is a good place to buy the 1100 that isn't 3rd party sellers on Amazon or Ebay? It's always gonna be 3rd party sellers since that drive isn't sold to retail. Everything on the market came
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Oct 24, 2018 00:47
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Lockback posted:Here is a good price on a great SSD for $150 WD Blue 3D is also 150 and is a much more recent drive with 3d nand. I'm not sure that black friday won't be even cheaper, ssds are really cratering.
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Oct 24, 2018 23:14
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Seamonster posted:What are options for 2tb nvme? Just the 970 evo? I'd strongly consider the Intel 660p if you are doing just desktop and games stuff. At that size it's got a proper discount vs the competition (currently $350 at newegg), and on the 2tb model the SLC area of the drive is huge. But mostly I just wouldn't buy a 2tb nvme drive right now. Those are still a halo product and the crazy price-war discounts aren't hitting them like smaller drives. $500 for 2tb is a bad deal when 1TB satas are being sold for under $150 and even 1tb nvme can go on sale for $200.
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Nov 6, 2018 05:09
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teagone posted:I'm trying to see where I could save a few dollars here and there while maximizing space on the system drive (other components I'm settling on are a Ryzen 3 2200g and a B450 based mainboard). Considering that NVMe is completely overkill for a media server, you could save money pretty easily by just buying a regular sata ssd?
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Nov 10, 2018 08:50
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KingKapalone posted:Would the only upgrade be an NVMe drive? NVMe won't improve anything on a gaming PC, and having to go through extra hoops to make it work is doubly useless. Put your money in the piggy bank to save for upgrading the whole machine.
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Nov 19, 2018 14:45
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KingKapalone posted:Oh I thought that was the new thing? I guess I don't need a hard drive. NVMe is faster than sata, a lot faster. But average desktop and gaming stuff is not constrained by the bandwidth limitations of sata so it's not really visible. During a level load a sata SSD can supply data fast enough that the game is spending more time waiting on the CPU and memory while setting up the geometry and stuff. For now the performance advantage of NVMe is useful to people doing databases, high-end video editing, servers, etc.
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Nov 19, 2018 15:09
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BIG HEADLINE posted:it's going to be annoying having to explain to people in the building thread that the "QVO" drives aren't meant to be boot drives, though. What exactly makes them unsuitable as boot drives, for the average desktop & games goon? The ones one the market already from Intel & Corsair were pretty much tuned specifically for mainstream (ie read-heavy) desktop performance. You don't need to worry about the page file consuming too many writes or whatever, it'll generally stay in the SLC cache which doesn't burn the write capacity. At the most conservative, maybe you go back to recommending that people short-partition the drive by 100mb so it always has spare space, since the worst problems occur when you fill the drive enough that the SLC space is restricted. Personally I'm not very excited by the first-generation QLC drives. The current ones are just "NVMe at sata prices" but I'm already fine sticking with sata. And I think future improvements might come along that make the limited-writes problem even less of a problem -- for example, if the OS / filesystem could give "hints" to the SSD about temporary vs permanent data. But the history of TLC suggests that gamers & PC enthusiasts are really bad at estimating drive life and how fast they'll go through it. People used to say not to buy TLC drives because of endurance, and they were wildly wrong.
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Nov 24, 2018 01:31
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DrDork posted:Why the hell are we worrying about writes? Even TLC drives of moderate (256+GB) sizes have effective write tolerances so hilariously high compared to normal consumer workloads that they will far out last the rest of the computer you stuff it into. It's worth actually looking at what an average persons disk writes per day are. For most home users, it's actually quite small. The new drives we're talking about are QLC, four bits per cell. Currently the Intel 660p and Crucial P1 are on the market, samsung announced they're doing QLC too. The first-gen QLC is being spec'ed with 20 writes per cell. Yes, twenty. That would seem to be a problem because even a mainstream user might write 20 or 40 TB. But they are also using the SLC cache that Evo-style TLC drives do now, only with even more smart management to dynamically size the SLC cache. Because the SLC cache can be pretty huge, the drive is less aggressive pushing data into QLC storage. Writes in SLC mode put a fraction of the wear on a cell that quad mode does, so the effective endurance is fine for mainstream desktop use. Intel is selling the 660p with a 5 year warranty and 200TB write endurance limit. And Intel is the most conservative SSD maker about write endurance.
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Nov 24, 2018 03:34
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Atomizer posted:He's aware that we're talking about QLC, DrDork posted:That's kinda my point, though. Eep. Apologies DrDork, I didn't finish reading the last sentence where you say QLC. Hopefully someone else found the post useful! Geemer posted:Turns out I wasn't crazy, after all. Just slightly misremembering things posted ITT a year ago (emphasis mine): So all that time ago I was going on the reported results from the one place I've seen that actually ran through all that write capacity, TR's endurance test. Their intel drive did not become a permanent read-only drive, it bricked itself into "an inaccessible 0GB SATA device". TR did an immediate reboot after it started throwing errors and then it was dead. quote:According to Intel, this end-of-life behavior generally matches what's supposed to happen. The write errors suggest the 335 Series had entered read-only mode. When the power is cycled in this state, a sort of self-destruct mechanism is triggered, rendering the drive unresponsive. Intel really doesn't want its client SSDs to be used after the flash has exceeded its lifetime spec. I don't remember if anyone ever posted firm evidence that newer Intel drives have changed to permanent read-only. Or whether TR's experience was not what was supposed to happen and their drive was faulty. I don't think it's a huge deal because, as we've been discussing, drives have more than enough write endurance. But I still think self-destruct is a lovely feature. Also that nobody should rely on the read-only feature for data recovery, in the unlikely event that they run through 100% of the MWI.
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Nov 24, 2018 15:37
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Encrypted posted:https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/intel-ssd-600p-nvme-endurance-testing,4826.html Ok cool. That is much better and removes my negative outlook on that "feature". I know people say backups, but in practice very few people run constant nightly backups. Even a small amount of lost data is bad when it's from something that was completely avoidable. (As an aside I think small QLC drives -- like the 256 in that article -- are a bad idea, and worth avoiding or recommending that other people avoid. The SLC area is much smaller, and the drive is more likely to be full which reduces it more. Everything that makes QLC acceptable is the SLC zone. The discount is gonna be like $5 on small drives so not worth it.) Lambert posted:I had three Corsair Force (2 80 GB and one 120 GB) die on me, and years ago. This is really surprising to me. I have an OCZ vertex something or other, you know, the ones that killed OCZ because the failure rate was so bad. Still works!
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Nov 25, 2018 16:24
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CatelynIsAZombie posted:Thanks for the help I cloned the boot disk with macrium and everything works I guess. Is a 100mb page file normal for an SSD? assuming you are talking windows virtual memory, a 100mb page file just means you booted the os recently and it hasn't needed to page anything out of ram yet. with old HDDs there was potentially some benefit to static size page files but that's not really the case with SSDs, just stick with the system managed size.
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Nov 27, 2018 06:48
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Oxyclean posted:I'm just looking for something a secondary to get my games to load faster (already got a 250GB ssd for my OS) - should I be looking for something else? for a drive that's nothing but a games dump you could go with an extremely cheap ADATA drive (the SU650) which don't have dram and save a few bucks but I'd just get that WD blue for future flexibility, in case you want it as your OS drive the next time around. a dram-less drive like the SU650 is pretty much locked in to being secondary storage. edit: also, GreenBuckanneer posted:When your MSI mobo is missing the M.2 standoffs, is there something I could use in its place? for replacement standoffs I would just go to the hardware store rather than waiting on something to be shipped. get a tiny bolt + nut and a little packet of small nylon washers so you don't need to care about shorting anything. Klyith fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Dec 1, 2018 |
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Dec 1, 2018 20:47
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SourKraut posted:So if I have an Angelbird PX1 on my HP EX920, right now the heat pad is set so that spans the flash itself within the enclosure. From the last page's discussion and the Gamers Nexus video, it sounds like I may want to revert to a simple PCIe adapter like the Lycom DT-120 or trim back the heat pad on the PX1? Quick GIS of that looks like an oversize heatspreader, I'd just leave it. In a mac pro -- the trashcan one right? -- it's gonna stay pretty warm since the ambient temperate around it is gonna be pretty toasty. Also the thing about flash memory preferring to be warm is about data retention time, not overall flash lifespan. Worse data retention does theoretically lower total lifespan, because the controller has to re-write data that is getting fuzzy*. But that's a trivial number of writes added, versus endurance that's far more than what almost anyone will need. *this is why SSDs are not recommended for unpowered offline backups, because they can't do that while they're sitting on a shelf The heatsinks people should avoid are big finny ones with heatpipes, or worse waterblocks, that make contact with the flash.
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Dec 10, 2018 19:16
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Tortilla Maker posted:My SSD drive looks to have pooped it’s pants. alternately, put it in a USB caddy if you have one. quote:Is it still true that files on a pooped SSD can’t be recovered? hmmm, this reminds me that I should write up a post in the backup thread since I spent some time crafting my own cool solution.
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Jan 8, 2019 19:29
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These days overprovision should be tailored to your tasks, not a strict % of drive space. If you have 100GB overprovisioned and you never write more than ~50GB in any operation it is more than you need. 10% was a reasonable number from back in the days when $1/GB was cheap and people had tiny ssds. Personally, I overprovision my drives by formatting them to divisible-by-5 in gibibytes, so that the drives have pleasing numbers when I look at them in explorer. And yes, this means that my HDDs are also "overprovisioned". Potato Salad posted:Nah, leave the factory overprovision in if you're gonna use the drive for a long time. Don't think anyone was talking about that, just the 10% (of normally user-accessible space) that samsung magician does if you let it do whatever it wants to.
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Jan 22, 2019 03:19
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isndl posted:Sometimes it's someone else's problems. I'd much rather overprovision a computer that I'm handing off to parents/spouse/family etc. than get a ... preventable problem. For a non-technical person if I was setting up a PC for them I'd probably drop a couple GB off the end for safety. I did run into cases back when I was a computer janitor where people unknowingly maxed out their HD. Definitely not the 10% that was the standard 6 years ago and magician for some reason still uses. And if I found their off-the-shelf laptop came with a SSD and it wasn't overprovisioned, I wouldn't bother moving partitions to free some. isndl posted:you might not have TRIM, like a couple weeks ago when I was discussing with someone on a 98 box they were building for retro gaming isndl posted:Overprovisioning shouldn't be necessary but it's good to know that it exists in case it is.
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Jan 22, 2019 20:58
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Buy whatever's cheap as long as it has UASP. Personally I'd choose more based on whether you like toolfree vs screws (toolfree is nice for quick swap but less rugged) vs a dock. I've got a rosewill enclosure and an orico docking-type thing that sits on my desk where I plug in backup drives. Both work fine. Atomizer posted:Intel 660p 2 TB for $230 (~$250 after tax) after newsletter promo code. Would be good for bulk storage in an ultrabook with no 2.5" bays. drat, I'm tempted. I've also got a 10% newegg discount since they just started collecting tax in NY. Klyith fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Jan 23, 2019 |
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Jan 23, 2019 01:54
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Lambert posted:With the Xbonx, there's an additional huge benefit to switching the internal to an SSD: The OS chugs severely running from the original HDD. Much smoother since putting the MX500 in there. The PS4 Pro OS is faster as well, but never stuttered as much when running from HDD. IIRC games and particularly consoles were one of the bast use cases for those hybrid SSHDs that seagate makes, because even the small amount of flash they have is good enough for the predictable caching needs of a game or console os. I say were because the 500gb MX500 is now cheaper than a 500gb SSHD. That's, uh, pretty loving wild. oohhboy posted:Putting them where ever is also fine. Blue tack or double sided tape. blue tack sounds terrible cause that stuff can get funky at high temperature and exude some type of oily liquid.
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Jan 25, 2019 06:24
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Max Wilco posted:Additionally, I thought to look for Western Digital brand drives, and [url="https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=cm_wl_huc_item"]the one I found seems to priced around the same as the Crucial ones[/u], and have pretty good reviews (I've found that WD brand stuff tends to be pretty good) That drive, the MX500, and an 860 Evo are all effectively identical from a desktop-user performance perspective. WD bought Sandisk, so they use in-house flash, and sandisk drives also have a good history. So if you like the WD brand that's a fine decision.
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Jan 25, 2019 06:57
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unknown posted:Thanks, that makes sense - drive is like 80% empty, and there's no bad block/realloc errors at all in smart. AFAIK the SLC isn't a static area of the NAND, it gets moved around to work with the overall wear leveling. Newer drives don't even have a fixed size allocated to SLC mode. Writes in SLC mode are much less damaging to the cell, much like getting hit with a bat is nicer than getting shot with a bullet. The bat and bullet might have the same amount of kinetic energy, but the bullet is more concentrated. Some SSDs *do* slow down over time with lots of data written. In many cases it isn't even the NAND itself wearing out, because doing a ATA Secure Erase will restore performance. OTOH some SSDs actually get faster!  So if you wanted to try to restore performance you could backup the drive and secure erase it. Alternately, I wonder if the constant writes are making the drive less efficient at its internal reorganization & garbage collection? If your application is able to be paused, you could stop it and run a trim periodically and see what that does.
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Jan 30, 2019 02:41
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Lambert posted:I've always heard of the SLC area being a fixed size dependent on overall drive size. Nope, lots of them do it now. The mx500, 970 Evo, even the Adata SU800. All QLC drives are relying heavily on dynamic SLC area to make QLC not suck. They may still have a static number which is the fixed minimum size of SLC even if the drive is full. The cells that get used as SLC are the same as all the others, just programmed differently by the controller. VVVV edit: I honestly didn't know myself it was so widespread! I found out the mx500 could do it just now when I was trying to look up more examples other than the 970 and 660p. It's very cool how SSDs have gotten to the "don't sweat the details, the drive is smarter at managing itself than you are" point in such a short time. 
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Jan 30, 2019 03:16
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Das_Ubermike posted:Has anyone purchased an Inland Professional drive before? I’ve never heard of the brand and Microcenter has a 1tb model for a little over a $100, which seems like a pretty good deal. Not sure if anyone has horror stories about these blowing apart and showering their genitals with hard drive shrapnel. I’m swinging by Microcenter tonight to pick up an order and I was thinking of purchasing one to supplement my 500gb Samsung drive. It's a cheap dram-less drive, so fairly poky for an ssd. Fine as like a games drive or something. 1tb for $100 isn't a super deal though, the Adata 650 (also dram-less) is $100 on newegg. And prices are expected to continue going down this year. In particular I wouldn't bother buying a cheap slow SSD right now when more QLC drives are on the horizon.
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Jan 31, 2019 19:27
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Crotch Fruit posted:You may have seen my post in the general hardware questions thread, I'm 99% sure this is not possible, but is there a mini PCI-e SSD that I can install in the second PCI-E port of my HP DM1z? I already have a few 2.5" SATA SSDs laying aroun (and even one installed in the DM1z) but I would love to have both an SSD and a spinner in the old laptop. I think the hardest part is if I search for mini pci-e SSDs I get results for mSATA SSDs which I'm certain would not work. I highly doubt the DM1z BIOS would allow booting to a PCI-e SSD, but maybe I could convince GRUB (running Xubuntu since it's too slow for Win 10) to boot to a PCI-e SSD. Worst case scenario, if I find a mini PCI-e SSD and my DM1z refuses to acknowledge it, would I be able to cobble together an adapter to use it as a regular SSD in either the laptop or a desktop PC? I don't think so. That laptop has an extra PCIe slot (besides the one taken by the wlan card) but the AMD chipset from 2011 doesn't support NVMe. So it won't even recognize a PCIe/NVMe card. And I doubt the slot is wired for SATA -- no references to it on google anyways. If you could get your hands on a M.2 sata card I would try it just to check, but don't pay for anything you can't get a full refund on. Laptops with CD slots (or blanks where a CD could go) you can get an adapter allowing a 2.5" drive to be installed.
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Feb 4, 2019 05:28
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PCIe 4x -> one NVMe M.2 is simple, it can be just a board with passive wires. a cheap one is fine. PCIe 16x -> 4 NVMe M.2 slots is not simple. It either needs a PCIe switch, or your system needs to have that capability built-in. (Ex this asrock card has a real short support list and only works "normally" on threadripper systems, on Intel it needs to use their Virtual RAID on CPU.) Cards with switches are expensive. e: and still don't work in an average consumer level motherboard apparently? Klyith fucked around with this message at 13:42 on Feb 17, 2019 |
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Feb 17, 2019 12:14
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isndl posted:He's asking for SATA ports though which should be a hell of a lot easier. A quick and dirty search has a 2 port card for $16 and 4 port for $25 on Amazon. hahaha I got totally befuddled by the previous guy asking about raiding NMVe drives IIRC the thing the DIY NAS server guys always recommend is to buy a cheap surplus LSI card off ebay (or IBM rebrand) and flash it to the non-RAID mode. You end up with a fast & reliable controller card that allows you to build whatever type of storage array you want in the OS. The cheap $30-40 sata cards on newegg are all powered by a cruddy marvell chip that doesn't hold up to real workloads. don't get them.
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Feb 17, 2019 17:19
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Also that motherboard won't be able to boot from the NVMe drive (common problem for z77 chipsets) so you can't move your OS onto it.
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Feb 18, 2019 19:58
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