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some texas redneck posted:Yeah, but 4000 RPM You're right, but I'm assuming that the carb's settings are all jacked up, so I was just providing one explanation for why engaging the choke would raise the RPM significantly. If you suspect a real big vacuum leak, you can try to put your palm (or a book, or what-have-you) over the choke horn; if the motor continues to run then it's obviously pulling air from somewhere it shouldn't. Looks like that carb is small enough that you can easily cover it with your hand.
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Sep 11, 2016 07:43
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- a cold idle on a carb should be more like 2500, mayyyybe 3000 at most, and it should drop down to ~700-800 once warm.
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Yeah, good point. There's no easy way to tell if the carb is 50 kinds of jacked right now without having someone who knows carbs there in person. I never thought about blocking off the horn. The  option is a Weber 32/36, I think the DGEV would be the easiest swap (has an electric choke). Probably needs an adapter plate. Carb itself would be cheaper than buying a rebuilt Hitachi carb more than likely, but emissions laws may make that difficult to impossible for OP (even though it'd probably pass an exhaust sniffer just as well as the original carb, if not better).
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Sep 11, 2016 08:18
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The secondary throttle plate is as far as I can tell closed (it's way down the carb which sits pretty high up in a rather tall car, would need to climb right on top of the engine to see better). At the high RPMs it runs now I can't really hear any hissing, but I have propane, carb cleaner and ether starter spray on hand to hunt for vacuum leaks. Don't honestly remember if the sound I heard before was with or without the air cleaner. Will be able to test a bit more when I have my brother over, would like to have one person in charge of ignition and throttle when doing that. I might play around a little bit with the adjustment screws to see if it does anything. I'm hoping it's like this due to some PO fuckery trying to make it run with a clogged up carb and the idle is just set crazy high. There was clear evidence of someone messing with the throttle cable to tighten it, the threaded tube end on it had lots of toolmarks. Slacking the cable a bit by moving the nuts lowered the rpm a little bit (2-300rpm). I'm guessing that if anyone did mess about like that, they didn't remove the carb from the car either, so anything they could have done I should be able to get at too. Also, ground down a cheapo 12mm wrench to see if that is able to get to that last nut holding the carb in, in case it needs to come out:  As for replacing the whole carb, it seems like a reasonable way out if this one is somehow totally screwed. A Weber kit is about $300, while some kind of aftermarket replacement unit (Hitachi lookalike) is about $130. If I can find something like that in Europeland, it might do. Otherwise it's a decent long-term plan as I can have it shipped to a mule in the US. Hoping it won't need to come to that, as long as it runs reasonable on this carb it will do and if I'm going to do any serious upgrading I would rather drop in a V6.
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Sep 11, 2016 20:13
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 IT IS ALIVE! My brother came over so we could change a brake caliper on his Swedemobile and have a stab at the truck. Not sure what did it, but some general messing around with the vacuum hoses and turning what I guess is the throttle adjustment screw, it now idles decently while warm. Still a bit high, 1500-ish, but it can at least be driven (and would rather have it high than prone to stalling). I sprayed some propane around various places and there is probably a leak around the base of the carb. I'm not entirely sure what size of effect I'm looking for, but it seemed revs went up just a little bit when I did it. It also seems to idle really rich, the exhaust is nauseating and stinky. It might be whatever we did to make it run while warm now makes it useless when cold. We shall see. Earlier I also tried covering up the carb intake with my hand. It tried to suck my fingers in and stalled quickly. I can't hear any hissing noises anywhere, except sometimes around the air cleaner (whose gaskets/seals are dubious), so whatever leaks there are aren't horrible at least. Did replace some of the thin vacuum lines just to get slightly longer ones of softer rubber for when fiddling around and disassembling intake, don't think there were leaks there. Have some old ATF out of aforementioned V70 of which we poured some into the power steering just to see where it leaked. Within a couple seconds after I started the engine there was a loud "psssssssshhhh" and a puddle of fluid on the street. There's two short pieces of hose joining the hardlines to the steering rack to those going up to pump and reservoir, basically right below the radiator. It turns out those were literally two old bits of garden hose and some hose clamps, with predictable results. Would it work with some better high-pressure hydraulic hose, or is that just hopeless and I need new properly crimped lines/hoses all the way? Fuelled up (21 gal tank, $6/gal ) and drove around a bit, and it actually runs pretty well. Picked up a friend and automotive co-conspirator who lives nearby and drove laps around the neighbourhood, within walking distance of a car to tow it with in case it died on us. Rode in one of the sideways jump seats in the back, which is just as uncomfortable as it looks. Can't sit straight without hitting head in ceiling (I'm 5'10"), one good bump and I would break my neck. Useful for short low-speed trips if I need to transport more people, and still slightly safer than riding in the bed I guess, but I hope they don't need to be used too often, at least not by people I like.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YXiQvL1DyM It drives pretty smooth, I'd say. Engine runs well enough, nothing making too much noise, suspension and steering in good order, brakes are fine. Clutch bites rather high, but it's perfectly functional. Transmission is smooth and shifts easily. For a while still, I'll just drive it when there is a backup plan (off-highway and someone I can call on to pick me up and tow it out of harms way in case it conks out), but it seems like it is pretty much driveable. Parking it without power steering is horrible, that needs fixing as getting in to my parking space means a couple of sharp turns. Carb probably needs a lot of tweaking and tuning and probably would benefit from a full rebuild to clean and seal poo poo up, but until I can do that I can at least drive the thing. Am happy now. Now I guess begins the never-ending list of stuff to fix, but everything is "whenever I can get to it", as long as I can use the thing meanwhile. Will take it through the safety inspection thing too (it's due before end of October), as they do a pretty good check of wheel bearings and balljoints and stuff, and I get a chance to see the thing from below on a lift. Also it seems there are no emissions checks whatsoever on light trucks older than 1993, so crappy tuning shouldn't really be an obstacle there.
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Sep 12, 2016 21:38
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Most carburetors have two adjustments for idle: speed, and mixture. The idle speed adjustment is really simple, it is usually just a screw that stops the throttle from closing all the way. The idle mixture screw generally goes into the body of the carburetor, and is a tapered needle that adjusts the fuel flow through the idle circuit. It is possible that you adjusted the idle mixture screw, rather than the idle speed screw, leading to the RPMs dropping and it smelling pig rich at idle. Or, maybe you did adjust the idle speed screw, but the idle mixture screw also needs adjustment. I'm not familiar at all with that carburetor, but here are two pictures that came up on an image search:  That gold colored one to the right is the mixture screw, and it looks like the silver one to the left is the idle speed screw. Looks like it goes into the throttle linkage area.  I only see one adjustment screw here, the flat head dead center, and this is the mixture screw. Or maybe you knew all this already 
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Sep 13, 2016 03:10
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Lots of parts stores will make up high pressure hoses for you, often cheaply. You definitely need high pressure hose for most power steering systems. Are you guys already at jacket-and-gloves weather at night? We're getting there but it might take a month or so.
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Sep 13, 2016 03:22
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If those lines run to steel tubing that goes in front of the radiator and to the reservoir, those are low pressure return lines. The steel tubing in front of the radiator is Nissan's way of cobbling together a power steering cooler. I went through the same issue with my last Nissan. You can get low pressure power steering hose in bulk from a lot of parts stores. Also, the factory return hose from the steering rack is just low pressure hose with clamps, it's just molded. This is obviously all out the window if it's the high pressure line from the pump to the rack. Seat Safety Switch posted:Are you guys already at jacket-and-gloves weather at night? We're getting there but it might take a month or so. I hate you so much right now. We whacked 35c today... nights are still around 26-28. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Sep 13, 2016 |
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Sep 13, 2016 04:03
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Are you guys already at jacket-and-gloves weather at night? We're getting there but it might take a month or so. My only experience with carbs are small two-strokes on chainsaws and rc planes and the like, but even those all had two screws to fiddle with. Close to the one we manipulated there's some kind of spring loaded doodad, but we couldn't figure out if it even was a screw. It's weird and has some kind of brass sleeve that doesn't look like it could possibly turn so we just left it alone. Now that I think about it that is probably the idle screw inside that sleeve. We have a bad habit of sometimes becoming idiots when we're together as we both surrender thinking duty to each other.
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Sep 13, 2016 05:26
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Raluek posted:It is possible that you adjusted the idle mixture screw, rather than the idle speed screw, leading to the RPMs dropping and it smelling pig rich at idle. Or, maybe you did adjust the idle speed screw, but the idle mixture screw also needs adjustment. None of those pictures match mine exactly. The screw I turned looked close to the left-hand one on the first picture, but it seems to me it was higher up and further in. Before I messed with it, I at least checked where it was (6.5 turns out from fully in). I think that one was in the proper place to be mechanically doing something to the throttle plate and it felt like it did correlate pretty well with idle revs, but then again, gently caress if I know. There's something on the very base of the carburetor that I don't understand what it is, it looks like some strange spring-loaded thing that might be some kind of cover for the mixture screw. Will investigate that bit further, and try to get some pictures in daylight. There seems to be about 10 different versions of this carb (desperate last-ditch effort changes each year to cope with emissions regulations before everything eventually went EFI), the Haynes manual I got just lists various year-models in US, Canada and California. Seems more and more unlikely that the carb rebuild kit I ordered actually matches the carb... One guess is I might have whatever they got in Canada where carbs also stuck around for a few more years. Seat Safety Switch posted:Lots of parts stores will make up high pressure hoses for you, often cheaply. You definitely need high pressure hose for most power steering systems. I've heard that said about parts stores in the US, but I have never seen any signs of any of the few we have here do that. I can probably have some hydraulic shop make one up or get a replacement part though. some texas redneck posted:If those lines run to steel tubing that goes in front of the radiator and to the reservoir, those are low pressure return lines. The steel tubing in front of the radiator is Nissan's way of cobbling together a power steering cooler. Both the lines to/from the steering rack have the exact same garden-hose-thing on them. Not sure if either of them snakes around in front of the radiator, but I can just trace which one goes where (didn't look too closely). The low-pressure return line shouldn't be too hard to fix with just a non-lovely piece of hose that can stand some temperature and chemistry, but the high-pressure one will be the adventurous part. I'll take it apart to see what it looks like those lines used to be. I'm guessing it's either supposed to be hardline the whole way (that someone broke by hitting a rock or some such) as there are hoses further up where it goes to reservoir and pump, or there has been some molded/crimped joint there before. I doubt it's supposed to be just hose clamps and "better hose", though that would make it easily fixable. some texas redneck posted:I hate you so much right now. We whacked 35c today... nights are still around 26-28. There's still the last few bits of summer hanging around so it's pretty nice here, but let's talk in late November and see who enjoys being outside. At least this truck seems to have decent heat (better than the old Mazda 323F I drove last winter). There seems to be some kind of indicator/switch/button for heated seats, but I can't figure out how they work, they just seem stuck. Hoping I do have heated seats after all, and changing out a switch should be an easy matter. On all cars sold in Sweden, heated seats have always been way more common than AC. Nowadays cars usually have both, but a couple decades ago almost everyone had heated seats while few cars had AC.
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Sep 13, 2016 07:01
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Googled around and found this which looks very much what is in my truck: That green scribble is where mine is broken, and it appears it should be continuous bits of hardline that someone broke and "repaired", in the same spot on both lines. I remember hearing somewhere that power steering runs at 40 bar (600psi) or thereabouts, and I have very little hope on any kind of home-made thing being able to cope with that. Will need to get some kind of new line/hose. Should probably look into getting hoses with the proper fittings made somewhere, unless I can just find replacement parts.
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Sep 13, 2016 13:11
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ionn posted:Googled around and found this which looks very much what is in my truck: You might be able to rent/buy a hardline flaring tool, and get some flare ends, junctions, and a few feet of appropriately sized steel. That would be the cheap and dirty way to go back to a functioning hardline without replacing it all. You can always try to find replacement lines for the whole thing too, I guess.
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Sep 14, 2016 05:15
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I'm going to start by pulling them out to look closer at what I got, but my guess is that I'll find two damaged pipes where a bit has been just cut off. Should also remove the power steering belt to avoid spinning the pump around with no fluid (god knows how long that has been the case already, but still). I can get replacement lines for about $120 (with shipping) apiece from the "Swedish Junkyard Network", and about the same through ebay from US or Australia. They are all used and old and I don't really know what shape they are in. At that price I'm willing to attempt some hack repair on pure principle, and give up and just buy the parts when that fails. Most reasonable would be to just buy the pressure line and attempt to fix the return, but I'll deal with reasonable later. I was thinking of brazing, if I can find some length of pipe that fits snugly over the existing ones. Have seen people welding them, but that seemed like much thicker pipes than mine. Flaring + fittings + hose or pipe sounds like a good idea to me too. I would need something "proper" for the pressure line, for the return I could skip the fittings and just flare it a bit to give the hose clamps something to bite in. I have a flaring tool set that I've only used for brake lines, but it looks like it can do a fair bit bigger things. Once I've identified the fittings at either end, I'll also call some hydraulic shop to see how much they want to make up a hose (just one long-enough hose to go from pump to rack). Have no idea what that would cost, but if it's decently cheap it's a useful option. I did also call Nissan. They want about $600 for the part, and they weren't quite sure if it was the pressure line, the return line or both...
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Sep 14, 2016 07:20
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This weekend me and my brother have some time to spend on my lovely truck! We're down at the family summerhouse (an hour's drive away from where I live) where all the good tools and things are for this kind of stuff. We started this afternoon/evening out by tearing out and cleaning the smelly interior. It was fairly easy to get the seats and carpet out, and a much better shot at cleaning things properly, and if we start here it will have more time to dry during the weekend. Things are dirty and it does smell very old and stale, hoping this will address this. Once stuff is back in again, we'll run the ozone generator for a while too.  Everything is out (seats, center console, carpet). Also cleaning the dashboard and door panels where they sit, and the metal floor which is full of crud here and there.  Brother pressure-washing the carpets.  Scrubbing and washing the seats. Regarding the seats, there was wiring and strange electric things for the heated seats. It's not a regular on-off switch, but some kind of temperature-activated thing that will then run the heater for a set period of time. Don't know it, don't trust it, don't like it. Will just replace it with a plain switch. Also based on measuring resistance it seems like the drivers side heater is broken, but the passenger seat works. Since my butt mostly will be freezing in the drivers seat come winter, I'll see if I can move things over somehow.  Had a closer look at the bed after taking out that aluminium checker plate. Overall not too bad but with a couple of horror spots. Behind the left rear wheel, the floor of the bed is bent up. There's supposed to be a bolt holding it down right there, that bolt is missing and there's about a 10mm gap between the flanges. No idea what's up with the mix of blue and white paint.   Here's on both sides of the left-hand wheel arch fender whateveryoucallit. Seam sealer is gone, and it has rusted right through. Sealer is missing in some other spots, but it hasn't rusted through anywhere else. Will need to cut out a strip of a few centimeters, but it should be fairly straightforward to repair.  A pretty bad dent, right above the left rear wheel. Will try to straighten it out a bit through some method of focused violence and force. I've looked around the usual places here for a used bed to just replace this partially rotten and bent one, but coming up dry. It obviously has to be nearby, but I'm finding nothing at all in Sweden. I'll dig around a bit more, but it probably means this one needs to be repaired. Should be doable, probably easiest to just take it off to be able to weld from both sides. It's supposedly held in by just six bolts (found four of those spots, one of which is missing), and it will also give me a chance to inspect a lot of other stuff back there. I would like to clean up all the rust and repair various holes (rust and random drilled holes here and there), and paint the entire inside with polyurethane. While I'm at it, I'll cover the rest in some kind of rust protection. This might have to wait a while though. For now I'll just put some paint over it to slow down the spread of evil. Apart from the bed, there's not that much rust. Some small spots on the few original body parts (above the windshield and on the drivers side door), nothing that doesn't seem easily patched. So, stuff that's up next (as far down down this list we get during the weekend):
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Sep 16, 2016 19:52
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ionn posted:24-hour-lemons Mazda 323 Wait a minute, do they run those races over here? Or is it some other similar series.
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Sep 17, 2016 01:45
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Pretty Cool Name posted:Wait a minute, do they run those races over here? Or is it some other similar series. Nope, this is the closest thing to it that we have in Sweden (to my knowledge). It's called Skrotbilsrejset. Runs twice a year, usually late March and late October, basically first and last weekend of the season the track is open, and cheaper to rent. Me and some friends have been doing that since 2010, not all the races but I think this is our 9th or so. The different thing about this is that the cars are only used for one race, and the last thing they ever do before death is a glorious 24-hour race. Before you start the race, you hand over a signed ownership transfer paper , and afterwards the cars get scrapped. Intended to keep the price and quality of cars down. Most cars are so horribly worn and broken that it's for the best anyway. Max value of the car is 10000SEK (about $1200), but many cars have more expensive parts in them that the teams keep afterwards. Against the rules but not really enforced. Didn't take many pictures of that stuff today as I was mostly pissed off at the bloody leaking exhaust that's preventing us from passing emissions, and it was mostly my brother welding it. Got some things done on truck today though. The interior dried overnight and in the morning sun, and is now back in. Looks a fair bit cleaner, but main thing it does not smell funky anymore. The ozone generator is in the car overnight to do its thing on whatever is left. Behold carb. Here's a picture of the thing again, as well as some juicy closeups:   What I believe to be some kind of throttle adjustment screw (center of picture just above middle, with edge of shadow across it). It seems to work straight on the throttle lever thing, screwing it in (righty tighty) raises idle, out lowers it.   This I think is the idle mixture adjustment screw. It doesn't quite match any diagrams I've seen, but other versions have it in the same spot, albeit looking different. It's right at the base of the carb, and heads in the direction of one of the barrels (the one with the choke and primary throttle). How it works is a bit of a mystery though. After fiddling around with it, it seems to our clever minds with little carb knowledge to be some kind of spring-loaded thing that you press in on to engage something to the screw underneath, using a large flathead screwdriver or some such. It bears clear traces of PO fuckery and we couldn't figure out how to work it (the opening is a bit bent), so instead we cut off most of that little cover thing. Inside (barely visible in pic above) is something that looks like a flathead screw with a thing in the middle. So we sacrificed a screwdriver to the Nissan gods and cut a slot out in the middle, and it does engage something in there. It's screwed in a bit, about one turn out from fully seated. This didn't change much how the engine behaved, but the exhaust smells less of gasoline and nausea and now smells mostly like "old car". It still runs fine, adjusted idle down a bit to just under 1000rpm. Since it's not crazy high anymore I need to give it a little bit of throttle for a few seconds when starting it cold, but it's no big deal. Test drove it, all seems well. There's some faint "chirping" noise coming from somewhere around the left rear, not sure what it is. Might be the bed moving due to the lack of a bolt there, might be something worse. Also found an exhaust leak at one of the flanges, just slapped some exhaust-fix monkey poop on it to see if it helps a bit. Will deal with later  Cleaned out the engine bay a bit, got rid of the worst nastiness. There was plenty of old oil and dirt, looks a lot nicer now. Also replaced the brake booster line and a couple more bits of vacuum hose with new rubber. Changed plugs to be able to get a "fresh read". The ones that came out looked to be in pretty condition, but 1&2 where a bit more oily than 3&4. Possible valve seal leak?  Also need new spark plug wires, they are about to come apart. The negative battery terminal I replaced a while back. I couldn't get the crimped bit off with the tools I had on hand at the time and cutting it off would have made the cable to short, so there's a bit of the factory crimped thing that had a convenient hole in it, just screwed in there. There's at least half a millimeter clearance between the terminal and the fender, it's fiiine. Though I may or may not move it a little bit. Was intended as a temporary hack, but the car starts fine so it will probably stay until I have nothing better to fix than that. Next order of business, check out the power steering lines. Skid plate came out really easily enough. And behind that, the granddaddy of all PO fuckery found so far. Power steering lines fixed with plain non-reinforced garden hose. The drips you see there is water, but there was plenty of power steering fluid and gunk everywhere nearby.   Made some reference marks on them and took them out. Predictably, the hose has just ruptured on the pressure line. Behind this was good steel lines though, it seems about 40-50mm has just been cut off. Will try to get some 10mm-ID pipe and braze or weld it. Other things dealt with:
A big cleaning job and a bunch of small things, but the truck has turned into something a lot more livable, and it's even a pleasant experience driving it. Still haven't found anything wrong that is too difficult to fix, and I'm hoping this will prove to be as reliable as legend says it is.
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Sep 17, 2016 21:19
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 An experiment that worked well; drilling a series of small holes through the foam of the steering wheel and injecting low viscosity epoxy with a small pipette. It's still an ugly wheel but it feels a lot better when the padding is attached to the steel.  The trailer hitch seems solid enough. I dislike the routing of the cable but that can be fixed later I suppose. It's terrible to parallel park this truck without power steering. I'll try to repair it by brazing once the ordered tube shows up provided I can borrow an oxyacetylene torch. The amount of pitting in the remaining hardline is a bit disconcerting but solder with high silver content used with the right flux is almost magical, I'm sure it will flow and be plenty strong if I can only get parts clean enough.
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Sep 18, 2016 19:19
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a few things.... that looks almost exactly like the carb on my sisters 1980 datsun 720 w/ L20b engine. I rebuilt it easily enough as my first carb rebuild and yes, some of the nuts were a pain in the rear end to remove. also you may be able to buy brand new lines off rockauto or autopartswarehouse or equivalent. shipping will murder you but hopefully they will be cheaper than used or oem. alternatively you can clean the outsides of the tubes and use compression fittings intended for steel hydraulic lines, OR flare and use flare unions like others said. brazing old rusty oily hydraulic lines would be my last ditch attempt, one pinhole in the braze and you will be miserable. E: power steering pumps on things I am used to typically run around 1350-1450psig and this is easily enough to cause fluid injection injuries and require amputation if not caught fast, so be careful.
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Sep 18, 2016 19:36
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kastein posted:alternatively you can clean the outsides of the tubes and use compression fittings intended for steel hydraulic lines, OR flare and use flare unions like others said. brazing old rusty oily hydraulic lines would be my last ditch attempt, one pinhole in the braze and you will be miserable. As I see it the brazing is something I can do with relatively little effort or money spent. If it doesn't work, brother ionn will have to spend money on parts. If I can get the silver to flow right, pinholes are unlikely to occur. If it won't flow, it won't work and if so we'll have to try something different. We have little to lose by trying, provided we are careful and make sure to test any repairs in a safe manner.
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Sep 19, 2016 13:48
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New lines from the US can be had shipped for somewhere in the neighbourhood of $150, I can get a used one locally for about $100 (from scrapyard, even has some kind of warranty). I'll go for one of those options if cheap-rear end repairs won't work, but dammit if we're not trying cheap-rear end repairs first. As far as repairs go just buying the necessary fittings and things here isn't super cheap either, and I still don't rightly know exactly what to get to join up two bits of 10mm OD steel pipe a few centimeters apart. Randomly poking around at it it seems it would cost somewhere $40-60 bucks, and I would still need to find a crimp tool. I do have good hopes for proper brazing though. The fittings at the ends appear to be regular 16mm banjos, so I'll call the local hydraulic people about just making a 2m length of hose with those ends on it. From what I understand the Z24 engine (which I have) is also present in some later Datsun 720 trucks, and the Z-series engines are really really similar to the earlier L-series ones, so it's not surprising if the carbs carried over. Still, there seems to be shitloads of versions for different markets / model years / emissions rulesets, and I haven't seen the type plate on mine, or any other identifying markings. Truck runs well enough as it is that I probably won't bother with the carb rebuild for now. It will be parked up for a while at some point in the future at which point I'll give the thing a go, but for now I prefer it running. I am able to get to all four nuts holding the carb in using that thinned-down wrench, for when the time comes. Will still be tricky to remove, as I'll have to unscrew them a bit from awkward angles, lift it up a bit, unscrew a bit more, lose one of the nuts, swear, get all four of them off and finally drop something down the intake manifold. There is a bit of an exhaust leak, basically right under the seat, at the flange between the mufflers (maybe the forward one is called a resonator, whatever). It's not too loud, but it does stink up the cab when stopped. It seems to be just a bad gasket (it leaks right in between the flanges, straight up), I'm expecting to have to cut a pair of rusted-to-death bolts off but after that it should be a straightforward fix I hope. Also looking around for a set of wheels. The tires that on there have lots of rubber left, but they're 10 years old and hard as hockey pucks and will likely be less-than-awesome in winter. If that is confirmed to be the case when it gets a bit colder, I'll probably get a set of used rusty steelies from some junkyard, clean them up a little bit, and put a set of new proper winter tires on them. They'll have soft enough rubber that they will die quickly if driven in summer, but for warmer weather the tires that are on the thing will do for now. I will mostly drive this thing in winter anyway, but I still would like it to be usable in summer. Due to unforeseen events, my brother drove the truck home last night, and showed up this lovely morning to drop it off with his 70kg+ electric cargo bike on the bed. Truck life, never lived it before.  How's that for parallel parking with no power steering. I straightened it up though, just as long as it looks better than that Range Rover in front of it I'm happy. I know I am a better human being than whoever drives that. The unforeseen events was the Mazda 323 junk racer, it developed some kind of ignition issue so I had to patch it up and nurse it back home last night. I had one spare ignition lead and it did make things slightly better (cyl #3 went from dead to at least somewhat running). It's this little rear end in a top hat, that invalido welded up the exhaust on during the weekend:  Random misfires could also explain the high HC and uneven readings at idle, hoping fixing those fixes emissions (together with the almost-not-leaking-at-all exhaust). Needs to pass that inspection, as it's a requirement that it's formally road legal to enter the race (inspection, tax, insurance). Going to throw some replacement ignition bits on it and see what gives. Also the negative battery terminal, looking exactly like the one in the truck, had gone bad. Not visibly broken, but somehow stretched out as the screw bottomed out and it still didn't grip. Replaced it in exactly the same way as the truck one (cut terminal up, bolt into cheap Biltema terminal). Proven concept, worked fine. For the race we're moving the battery to the rear so that cabling gets replaced anyway.
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Sep 19, 2016 14:10
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Invalido posted:
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Sep 19, 2016 14:34
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ionn posted:
When I was traveling in Sweden a few years ago everyone doing labor outside was wearing these pants. I've always wanted a pair. They look so perfect for doing work. Where do you get them?
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Sep 19, 2016 14:38
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Seat Safety Switch posted:This is an impressive idea. I like this very much. The top half seems to work, it didn't come loose during brute-force parallel parking, but time will tell how it holds up. I'll try wrapping some grip tape (the kind you use on tennis rackets or such), will see what that does, hopefully it can be made non-hideous enough that I can get by. Haven't found any useful replacement steering wheels nearby, but if/when a suitable one shows up, I'll probably get it. The only junkyard-part wheel I found of the right model was badly bent and black, the others were all from newer models and looked all wrong. It would be kind of hilarious to get a really modern wheel with fancy buttons and whatnot in them (they could be wired up to control stereo and stuff), but it would look really out of place, and they mostly seem to be missing the airbag and have a big gaping hole in the middle. SCA Enthusiast posted:When I was traveling in Sweden a few years ago everyone doing labor outside was wearing these pants. I've always wanted a pair. They look so perfect for doing work. Where do you get them? That particular model I think are these, or at least something close to it. There are some different ones, those ones are a bit more expensive (~$100) but hold up well. You get what you pay for, the cheaper ones work but wear out quicker. Get a pair of foam kneepad inserts too (sold in the same place for about $10), it drastically improves quality of life. I'm so used to having them that when I wear regular jeans or I forgot to put them in after washing them, I often drop straight to my knees and hurt myself. It's a lifestyle choice (these pants, overalls, coveralls, tool belt / vest, whatever), but I prefer this, and it seems to be the popular choice for most people doing "tool-intensive manual labour" for a living here as well. There's usually a knife, a sharpie, a foldable ruler and a pair of gloves in the pockets (plus leftover nuts and bolts, random zip-ties, and random crap) so it's just pants-on and you're good to go!
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Sep 19, 2016 15:55
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I use hockey tape for a ton of stuff on the interior. It's great for anti-rattle on those annoying triangle clips Subaru likes to put all over the trim.
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Sep 19, 2016 16:20
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The grip tape I use for my hockey sticks would maybe do. It's thin and flexible but really grippy, but it would look kind of weird and it leaves black marks on the inside of my gloves when it's fresh. There are plenty of texture and color choice available in the world of tape though. Will try and see what works.
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Sep 19, 2016 17:05
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SCA Enthusiast posted:When I was traveling in Sweden a few years ago everyone doing labor outside was wearing these pants. I've always wanted a pair. They look so perfect for doing work. Where do you get them? Any hardware store will have at least some models. There are stores specialized in workwear that have large selections, with fabric, color, pockets and whatnot optimised for different work. An electrician will have slightly different needs from a carpenter, the painters like theirs white, some need day-glow colors and reflective tape for OSHA reasons etcetera. The best ones I've ever owned are from the manufacturer "Björnkläder" with kevlar reinforced knee pockets (the ones that accept the padded inserts). I still have them but have gotten slightly too fat for them to fit comfortably. If you really want to get some you might wanna check out one of the leading brands seemingly trying hard to expand stateside: https://www.blaklader.com/en/products/all-products Seat Safety Switch posted:This is an impressive idea. I like this very much.
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Sep 19, 2016 18:04
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Thanks for the info ionn and Invalido. Blue jeans are useful and versatile, but those work pants always seemed awesome to me. Kevlar reinforced sounds even better. I bet thank kind of thing hasn't caught on here because a lot of American manual laborers would be loathe to spend much more than $30 on a pair of pants. E: I should've paid more attention to your link!
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Sep 19, 2016 21:52
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It seems Blåkläder (which literally means "blue clothes") is sold in the US too! Even if there might be some more better ones, Blåkläder is the good stuff for sure. If you happen to be in Swedenland and visit a Jula store (also in Norway and Poland), just be wary of their "Blue Wear" cheapo versions. They work, but aren't as nice and have never lasted very long for me.
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Sep 19, 2016 22:19
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ionn posted:Nope, this is the closest thing to it that we have in Sweden (to my knowledge). It's called Skrotbilsrejset. That sounds awesome! Also, we need to start some sort of Swedish mazda-323-beater-club: 
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Sep 20, 2016 12:25
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Pretty Cool Name posted:That sounds awesome! MAZDA 323 FOR LIFE. That looks to me like the earlier BD generation (mid 1980's). We've always had BG's (1989-93 or thereabouts) due to the neat 130hp BP-Z 1.8 DOHC engine. Once we drove a weak 1.6 SOHC (89hp), and while it was reliable it was also way too slow. When it was wet and rather cold in the early morning hours, it was the fastest car on track due to good tires and excellent balance (and noone having full use of their engine power), but as soon as it dried up we were among the slowest again. Driving it like that was super fun though. Off throttle you got very mild oversteer, just smoothly bring on a little bit of power to balance it out and have it slip exactly as much as you have room for at the exit. Very easy to drive it right at the edge of traction and pass other cars almost anywhere. We're always hoping for a wet race with these cars, in the dry the BMW's are too fast. We have done this race a few times and I have often had these delightful little cars as regular beaters for a while before the race (including our spare car that I drove all of last winter during Miata off-season). I probably won't now though due to the existence of Lennart the Nissan Truck and the fact that we have got a garage/workshop/barn to store them in. Worst was when we had race-prepped a car for the October race (stripped the interior, put in racing seat and mounted a fuel catch tank with a loud Volvo 740 pump) and then realised we couldn't do that race and kept the car around for the March race. Driving that car all winter was a special sadomasochistic kind of fun. Did enjoy jumping it over snow berms when parking. Did not enjoy having ice form in the ceiling (due to zero insulation) that would then melt and get me and the seats wet. Most passengers did not enjoy it much either due to noise levels, but it was pretty useful for going to hockey practice. With the rear seat out it has a V70-like amount of cargo space. Edit: This is what a car looked like after a race in 2012 (I think this was the one I drove all winter):  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1_lZTy1jDo With less than half an hour to go, we hit that pink Ford that had a homegrown turbo conversion, good straight-line speed but useless at cornering. Punched hole in radiator, and while we could have replaced it he just drove it for another 10 minutes or so before it seized up (radio was out due to an electrical issue). Last year, same driver stuck it in the wall with 10 minutes left of the race, so he's not getting the last stint anymore. ionn fucked around with this message at 13:50 on Sep 20, 2016 |
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Sep 20, 2016 13:40
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It's an -89 so the last year for that generation iirc. I'm amazingly the second owner of it as of this summer, the PO was apparently some old lady in Dalarna. It's got a bad rear wheel bearing but other than that it's in pretty good shape. And yeah, I can't imagine it being much fun to race one of these older ones considering how gutless they are. The truck seems great, I wish I could have one of those.. But, parking it around where I live would be too much of a pain in the rear end 
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Sep 20, 2016 21:37
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Pretty Cool Name posted:It's an -89 so the last year for that generation iirc. I'm amazingly the second owner of it as of this summer, the PO was apparently some old lady in Dalarna. It's got a bad rear wheel bearing but other than that it's in pretty good shape. And yeah, I can't imagine it being much fun to race one of these older ones considering how gutless they are. I have found very little correlation between the types of previous owners, and the state of the car. It appears almost anyone is capable of ruining a perfectly good car through incompetence or negligence. Pretty Cool Name posted:The truck seems great, I wish I could have one of those.. But, parking it around where I live would be too much of a pain in the rear end Oh, but you can! My truck is only 150mm longer and even 110mm narrower than a Standard Swedish Automobile Unit. Though the people who have the parking spot next to mine have got an XC90 (a shabby old 1st gen), and have on many occasions shown their ineptitude at parking inside the white lines. Not so much an issue when I got an MX5 as it fits practically anywhere, but this winter might entail intricate passive-aggressive positioning manoeuvres with our respective battleships. Also of course now parking is a bit of a shitshow with no power steering but I hope to have that remedied soon. In other news, I got rid of the obvious misfires in that little 323 bugger with new ignition leads (distributor to plugs), but it still failed emissions check. HC high at idle (~300ppm, needs to be <=100), but CO and NOx perfect. Lambda value slightly low (0.98) but within spec. The HC reading dropped down to 60 or so with some revs (2000-ish rpm), it's only at idle, so the catalytic converter shouldn't be toast (we changed that with a car that passed the check easily a couple thousand km ago). Some parts of internet say "if CO is fine and HC is high, it's ignition" (something with weak or late spark), but I don't know what to think. Probably will start swapping coil, distributor+rotor and AFM with the spare parts car and see what gives, but after that I'm out of ideas. Possibly drop in an aftermarket ECU (got some speeduino bits, and can borrow the MS3 from my MX5) so I can tune fuel at idle, but there's precious little time to do that stuff before the race.
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Sep 21, 2016 17:53
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 The tube arrived in the mail so I went oxyacetylene brazing this evening. I cleaned the surfaces as well as I could using a dremel wire wheel, emery paper and acetone. There's no way to tell what happened (or didn't happen) in the gap between the work pieces without sawing the joint apart lengthwise, and I'm not gonna do that just yet. Lots of solder went somewhere , presumably wicked into the gap. Here's hoping. It seemed to flow well enough outside the gap where the old hardline was actually cleaned. Those nice fillets formed only at the bottom, due to gravity, but fillets (though nice looking) won't give the necessary strength anyways so I didn't bother trying to make it look nice. If there was insufficient capillary action this repair won't hold pressure. The tube used in the splice has silly wall thickness, but it was either 3mm wall seamless tube or 1mm wall welded pipe that could be easily gotten. There was no price difference so this seamed like the right choice. I'll drop this off at ionn's tomorrow before work and he'll have to decide where to take it from there.
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Sep 21, 2016 20:50
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Plan for power steering: Install the lines, figure out where I put the belt or get a new one, pour in fluid, put a piece cardboard or something around the joints, start it up for a few seconds (with no humans nearby), see if it leaks. If this thing doesn't work, I'll order a junkyard replacement. I guess I should also change fluid once it's non-leaky for good measure, as there's no telling how much rust and crap is in there. Whatever I end up with, I'll cover the whole thing in rust protection of some sort. It seems the place it rusted through was where there was a bracket / mount point for it (one of the red circles in a picture posted earlier), I don't remember ever undoing that particular bracket so it is presumably gone since the "repair". Guessing the rubber rotted away, was replaced by dirt and moisture (what Sweden is made of), and here we are. I took the other bracket off (similar one just on the other end of the straight section) earlier to check it out, but there the rubber looked all good and there was fresh nice looking steel underneath. Will just improvise new rubber (cut up hose) + steel band mountings. Also called about getting the trailer hitch legal. Needs to go through a separate inspection for that for about $130, and I need to have papers for the hitch assembly matching both the type of vehicle as well as the 20 year old painted-over type plate on the hitch, showing that I have installed it correctly. The thing that is a bit out of order is that the trailer hitch is intended for a D22, not a D21. They appear interchangeable though, at it has the same mount points in the rear of the frame. A tech dude will call me and we shall have a chat about it, but I have a time tentatively scheduled for it in a couple weeks. E: Looking closer at the papers, I'm missing a piece. Can fabricate it (it's an L-shaped piece of steel with a couple holes in it) or get a replacement, but it will take me a while due to travels and other things going on. Cancelling that time for now. ionn fucked around with this message at 11:45 on Sep 22, 2016 |
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Sep 22, 2016 09:24
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Wow, you guys have trailer hitch inspections? I kinda wish we did (because I've seen some really janky stuff out there) and I am kinda glad we don't (because I don't have to get mine inspected.) Sucks about the mounting bracket causing the rust, I've seen that on some other things. I think part of it is that the clamp being against the pipe holds water and dirt against it and causes a combination of mechanical wear and rust, as well as concentration cell corrosion until it simply rusts through. Fortunately I don't think those 3mm patches are going anywhere anytime soon, good work.
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Sep 22, 2016 21:18
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kastein posted:Wow, you guys have trailer hitch inspections? I kinda wish we did (because I've seen some really janky stuff out there) and I am kinda glad we don't (because I don't have to get mine inspected.) drat right we do! However, for a country with a very high occurence of trailer hitches on every conceivable kind of car, it's somewhat complex. For newer cars (that have some kind of EU type approval), you just mount it and next time you do the yearly inspection thing, they check it out then (at no extra cost). For older and/or stranger things, you need a separate inspection for it. Don't think it is more thorough, it's just more complicated. You need to bring the installation instructions, and they check that it is the right kind of hardware for the vehicle and mounted the way it's supposed to. Given the horrors that could happen if it were to come apart, and the kind of mechanical mistakes people can make, it seems like a sensible thing to do. Of course, many cars have them factory/dealer installed, in that case you don't need to do anything afaik. kastein posted:Sucks about the mounting bracket causing the rust, I've seen that on some other things. I think part of it is that the clamp being against the pipe holds water and dirt against it and causes a combination of mechanical wear and rust, as well as concentration cell corrosion until it simply rusts through. Fortunately I don't think those 3mm patches are going anywhere anytime soon, good work. Yep, pretty sure that's what happened there. Will make a serious attempt to prevent it being a problem in the future though. invalido brought the brazed lines over earlier today, and this evening I managed to wrangle it back in from above. It would probably have been a lot easier to do from underneath (the same way I got it out), but I couldn't be bothered to crawl under there on the street. Put a new power steering belt in, poured in new fluid, and.....  IT WORKS After running the engine for a few seconds, I couldn't see any obvious leaks, so I topped fluid up (as it had swallowed the entire reservoir), checked again, and then took it for a test drive. Even after turning it lock-to-lock a couple times with the engine revved up (getting air out and somewhere induce max working pressure), I could still not see any fluid leaking anywhere.  This picture was after doing that and driving for a bit, had there been any serious leaks at the braze joints it would have been running down the skid plate / splash guard / whatever you guys call a "hasplåt". I obviously need to clean out some old crap down there too. I can attest to it being a lot nicer to drive now, especially when parking. Will probably drain it and refill it, since there's probably some crap inside the system after the various failures and repairs that shouldn't be there. It holds just less than a liter of fluid, so changing it is cheap. Found some specs saying 1.03 liters or some such, but I guess there was some fluid still hiding in there. Question to the audience: It appears this engine has some kind of clutch thing for the cooling fan bolted on to the water pump. I've never had or worked on a car with this, it's either been constantly running belt-driven fans, or electric. From what I can tell, the fan is always spinning when the engine is running, and with the engine off I cannot spin the fan (just turn it with enough force to make the belt slip). Is that clutch mechanism broken? How does the thing even work? If the clutch is stuck, do I have a chance repairing it?
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Sep 22, 2016 22:26
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Great work! Apparently your brother is better at brazing than me  That sounds like the clutch has been replaced with a solid drive like you are used to, or has seized up and turned into a solid drive by itself. The way they work is generally a spiral bimetallic strip that senses the temperature of the air flowing over the thermal clutch, which makes it pump varying amounts of a thick silicone fluid into the clutch assembly and makes more or less torque from the pulley transfer to the fan. It will freewheel when cold (at least once it has spun around enough to distribute the silicone evenly) and will be very stiff when hot. The only reason to use such a device is to increase fuel efficiency and decrease noise when the full fan power is not required, so if you don't really care about either at the moment and just want to get it running you can leave it as-is. Why would you clean all that gunk off the skidplate/brushguard? It looks like free rustproof undercoating to me. 
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Sep 22, 2016 22:33
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Is Noxudol really cheap over there? Because it's super expensive here.
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Sep 22, 2016 22:38
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kastein posted:Why would you clean all that gunk off the skidplate/brushguard? It looks like free rustproof undercoating to me. drat, didn't think of that. Already washed a lot of it off (pressure washed the skidplate when it was off to take hardlines out). I wonder if old motor oil and sand mixed up to a thick paste could be just painted on. Seat Safety Switch posted:Is Noxudol really cheap over there? Because it's super expensive here. I have never seen that brand here, but the Biltema generic stuff seems to be about half the price of that (compared to Noxudol on Amazon). I'm assuming it's the same kind of black/brown spray-on "monkey feces". I would go through a lot of it to cover the whole frame and underbody (as it seems the original owner did), but a couple $10 cans will go a long way to just cover up various bits and pieces. I'm going to apply it here and there and I can just as well cover the power steering hardlines in it too.
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Sep 22, 2016 23:04
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Ken, I'm not much of a brazer so I think I just got lucky. This is only the second time I've attempted it on steel (rather than copper/brass ) and the first time on mild steel since the previous time was some kind of stainless alloy. I am however pretty handy with a gas torch since I've done quite a bit of welding with that method. From what I've seen, heard and read about high temperature brazing it seems a tremendously useful for joining metal, even if it has fallen somewhat out of favour in recent times. I always desire more and better tools for my brother and myself, and given the choice between a TIG rig and an oxyacetylene setup I'm not quite sure which one I would choose first - obviously I want both. Anyways, I'm looking forward to removing the truck bed and channel my inner kevbarlas trying to straighten it out and patch up those rust holes with a MIG and some sheet metal. Hopefully we wont find any nasty frame related surprises underneath. Does anyone have an opinion on how to treat the newly welded joints on such a patch job? Just primer and paint or should we try to apply some type of rubbery seam sealer there as well? Or is that only useful on spot welded seams?
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Sep 23, 2016 07:51
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Bronze brazing is a VERY useful method of joining poo poo together because it works on dissimilar metals that welding wont! Between bronze brazing and silver soldering you can pretty much stick any metal to any other metal.
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Sep 24, 2016 14:49
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