|
TWSS posted:Since you guys are on the topic, anyone have a notion of which units are compatible with hondata? Race ECU compatability - http://www.aim-sportline.com/eng/download/ecu-connections-racing.htm OEM ECU compatability - https://www.aim-sportline.com/eng/download/ecu-connections-stock.htm Which presents a problem...Honda (Civic 2006-2011, Civic 2012-2015, Civic Type R FD2 2006-2011, Civic Type R FN2 2006-2011, Civic USA 2006-2011) No S2k on that list
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2017 01:36
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 23, 2024 11:13 |
|
|
I think you can still pull things off odbii, there's just not like a specific can protocol connection for them.
jamal fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Jan 18, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2017 03:34
|
|
|
TWSS posted:Since you guys are on the topic, anyone have a notion of which units are compatible with hondata? Last one I did was an aim dash on an s300. If I remember right you need the v3 daughter board. It's got to have the rs232 output built in. Looks like the kpro is the same but I don't have personal experience with it. Wiring and setup was easy. Checking the help file says racepak and motec are the same. Once again no personal experience though. Edit: s2k uses a modified kpro for all your hondata needs. No clue if it'll work out of the box though. Edit 2: 2000-2005 only, no drive by wire. Those can use flash pro but rip dash. honda whisperer fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Jan 18, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2017 03:48
|
|
|
A little more progress on things while I wait for the engine mounts to get made. Got this back to the 'working on' space in the garage so I can start working on it now that life is getting back to normal. First off was new front control arm bushings. A while ago (couple months?) Condor Speed Shop put out a pre-order on their Facebook for new solid fcab, I needed to replace the worn out OEM ones anyway so I ordered a set. These are offset (more camber/caster), solid and much more compact which will give me more room for the exhaust. Side by side you can see how much more room this will offer.   Removing the old ones...hammer/fire/swearing didn't work so I bought a 3-jaw puller that I should have bought a long time ago. Right side one came off with the puller in one piece. Left side didn't cooperate so once the bulk of it was off dremel the metal then spread and pull.       Old ones left a bunch of rubber on the rear of the control arm, hit them with a clean/strip wheel then 'slid' on the new FCABs. Driver side bolted right on, passenger side wouldn't line up which confirmed my suspicion that the control arm was bent. If you look back at early posts you can see how much farther back in the wheel well the passenger side wheel is. New control arm is ordered, plain old steel instead of the $500 aluminum 'M3 specific' ones.         Then in preparation for some of the parts coming in this week I removed the old partial quick release. Of course one of the bolts was stripped, after pounding in a torx and stripping it further it was drilled out. I'll even have a steering wheel by next weekend instead of the fancy vice-grip steering system.        Then returning to this issue from before NitroSpazzz posted:Next up the pump mounting plate and a dry fit of the pump. A miscommunication between the kit and pump manufacturer means the mounting holes don't line up. Not worth tearing apart the pump to put it back together with the mounting in the right spot. I'll drill and tap this maybe this weekend, think I have the right size tap around here somewhere.          Ordered a replacement right front control arm, am trying to figure out where to get that stupid connector for the wiring harness. A few big boxes of goodies are on the way and should be arriving next week. Pinging the guy making the engine mounts to see if he has an estimate of when we'll be ready for test fitting. Some other things have arrived in preparation for once engine is mounted and I begin the wiring. I picked up a full chassis harness from someone scrapping a E30 which I plan on trimming down and using.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2017 20:36
|
|
|
Late now, but bimmerworld makes a nice puller plate to use on FCABs with a 2 or 3 jaw puller. Pulls on the whole bushing instead of just the housing. http://www.bimmerworld.com/3-Series-Front-Control-Arm-Bushing-Puller-Plate.html I ordered a set of the condor mounts as well, apparently they're made by the original manufacturer who made them for treehouse I'm hoping they won't be too terrible for the street 
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2017 20:45
|
|
|
Ah poo poo I should have known something like that existed. I was going to slot a big fender washer but after the first one came off easy I didn't bother. Dremel made quick work of that inner sleeve. Oh little update on the instrumentation stuff since I'm posting. After looking at options I have a full digital data logging dash on the way from the UK (thanks to the weak £). I also scored a used AEM EMS to run instead of the factory ECU. This will feed directly into the dash reducing a lot of wiring headache and clutter. edit: Guy's working on mounts this week, we should be fitting my next weekend at the latest. Also found my connectors TE/AMP 179679-6 thanks to someone else - http://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-engine-management-231/s2000-ecu-pins-connectors-975925/ Ordering connector and new pins, think my old roommate has all the tools for this stuff. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Jan 29, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2017 20:55
|
|
|
 Artsy engine mount progress shot For myself future reference fuel cell cut-out is 19.75"x22.5" (501.65 x 571.5 mm) NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 12:48 on Mar 12, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2017 09:48
|
|
|
NitroSpazzz posted:I also scored a used AEM EMS to run instead of the factory ECU. This will feed directly into the dash reducing a lot of wiring headache and clutter. Series 2 or infinity? Either way, that opens up some convenient compatibility with other aem stuff. The AQ-1 datalogger for example is fairly cheap and will take info straight from the ecu. The problem with it is that it only has 8 analog channels (4x 0-5v, 4x0-16v), but stuff on aemnet via the ems or x-series gauges doesn't use any of the regular channels. It does have an accelerometer and gps input. If you have a logging dash that's probably not very relevant though. I just happened to be going through some aem stuff today.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2017 03:40
|
|
|
It's an older AEM unit which is why it was cheap as hell - AEM EMS v1 30-1052. But it'll output to the Race-Technology Dash2 Pro through a simple adapter cable and should make wiring and any future tuning/upgrades easy. Test fit the junkyard header I got yesterday, it should give me a little more room than the stock unit. Also started figuring out transmission mounting which should be very simple...just a support bar. Also taking inventory of things I should have ordered and taken care of by now like brake/clutch master cylinders and brake line to the rear 
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2017 12:48
|
|
|
Little bit done today, was hoping to get the engine in position but I'm still having issues with the exhaust hitting stuff. Might pull the FCAB off again and see if that helps. Or I might go roadkill on the header and 'adjust' it a bit with a hammer. Replaced the right control arm, wheel no longer sits too far back in the wheel well. Nice thing about the M3 is the connections for the control arm and steering unbolts from the strut. Made it easier. Puller didn't work for poo poo, big rear end hammer did for removing the old one.    Engine ALMOST fits     Pulled off the one brake master cylinder I have to check the specs on it. Seals are pretty dry rotted from sitting so I'll see if I can get a rebuild kit for this one then order another and see what I need for the clutch master.   Also smoked a drat good cigar and had some whiskey while cleaning my toolbox 
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2017 22:02
|
|
|
Just putting some things here for reference Front Calipers - https://www.apracing.com/product_de...e_to_order.aspx Rear Calipers - https://www.apracing.com/product_details/race_car/brake_calipers/pro_5000_range/2_piston_caliper_family/cp5020-20s0_(rh)_/-21s0_(lh).aspx Brake Master - https://www.apracing.com/product_details/race_car/master_cylinders/flange_mounted_types/vertical_flange_types/cp2623_type.aspx Pedal Box - http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds252.pdf Going to try to replace the smashed connector tonight if I have time/energy after work.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 10:40
|
|
|
Some goodies arrived... As mentioned earlier cheap used AEM v1 EMS and cheap serial to usb converter    Big box from Demon-Tweeks in the UK. Battery cutoff, Dash2 button set, wheel button mount I'll adapt, quick release hub, MOMO wheel and the Dash2 Pro with data logging option.           AEM to Dash2 serial interface  Spent a while learning the Race-Tech configuration software...very powerful and tons of cool features but still pretty drat easy to figure out. Think I'll do a pelican case or similar for the ECU, everything else is basically water proof. The few other people that did this swap were able to use the factory header and make it fit. I need to pull the engine again and compare the headers I have and make the drat thing fit. Pouring today so that isn't happening. May still get to replacing that connector, grabbed a bunch of tools from work for it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 23:37
|
|
|
Got a little bit done before the rain turned sideways and started blowing into the garage and I called it a night. First pulled engine and swapped back to OEM header then removed the passenger side FCAB and slid engine in. Was able to mount FCAB back up but header is resting on it, kind of jammed between FCAB and the chassis.    Then I replaced the smashed connector. Grabbed a bunch of small picks, tweezers and needle nose from work but only ended up only using the smallest 90 degree pick. Only took about 10 minutes once I figured out what needed to be done. lovely pictures of connector ahead trying to show off the little tab (under the crimped connector) you lift to release them.     Glad the connector was easy, I'll probably be adding a few more pins for additional monitoring.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2017 00:08
|
|
|
Decided to start looking at my chassis wiring this morning and figuring out how I'm going to combine four harnesses (3x s2k, e30). Unboxed the "uncut chassis harness" I picked up off one of the E30 facebook groups and went to work. GOD  loving  DAMMIT  So I have a butchered engine bay harness and a hvac harness. I NEEDED wiring (connectors) for the lights. On the upside I did get the blinker/highbeam stalk and some tail lights, I have headlights and connectors from Dad. Looks like I'll be making a trip to the salvage yard Friend is getting his new shop setup. Once he's set we'll trailer the car over there for them to do the engine mounting and modify headers to fit.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2017 14:05
|
|
|
Guess you better call rywire. That is really annoying though.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2017 18:01
|
|
|
The world will be a better place when we have access to a library of 3d models of every automotive connector imaginable, which we can then have 3D printed whenever we like for pennies, rather than being stuck searching for that one unicorn connector for a 20 year old car.
Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Feb 11, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2017 20:43
|
|
|
You all know about Ballenger Motorsports, right? Also https://racespeconline.com/products/k-series-ecu-connector-kit?variant=24645517569 mekilljoydammit fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Feb 11, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2017 21:11
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:Ventil zeitliche anpassung elektronische steuerung gerade gekickt im yah.  jamal posted:Guess you better call rywire. mekilljoydammit posted:You all know about Ballenger Motorsports, right? Pomp and Circumcized posted:The world will be a better place when we have access to a library of 3d models of every automotive connector imaginable, which we can then have 3D printed whenever we like for pennies, rather than being stuck searching for that one unicorn connector for a 20 year old car. Working on getting car picked up this week to have engine/tranmission/oil tank mounted by next week. Got a little work done on the s2k harnesses (labeling mostly) but weekend was mostly occupied with these little assholes. Foster pups we're taking care of for three weeks, we picked them up very sick but they're getting better.  Well poo poo looks like I could have saved myself a lot of time and money - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182451894955 I remember looking at the build thread for that thing months ago. Interesting/easy solution to the oil sump issue. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Feb 14, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2017 13:47
|
|
|
NitroSpazzz posted:I was wondering about this after digging around trying to find where I could order specific connectors without paying $10 in shipping and $5 a connector. Would need to be a higher end printer I would think for the fine details but it would be so nice. If it helps, AliExpress have most of the connectors you'll need (but often with different names to what you want...hope you know the Toyota part number for that Denso ignition coil on your Jaguar, for example!). They are cheap, and quality is acceptable.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2017 21:34
|
|
|
Pomp and Circumcized posted:If it helps, AliExpress have most of the connectors you'll need (but often with different names to what you want...hope you know the Toyota part number for that Denso ignition coil on your Jaguar, for example!). They are cheap, and quality is acceptable. I'll keep them in mind, don't think I've actually ever bought anything through them but I know I've looked at a lot. Some good news on the wiring is the early model E30 tail lights are stupid simple. Instead of having a OEM connector of any kind they have a couple basic tab connections so that won't be an issue. Still would have been nice if that had been included in the harness so I had the wire runs and everything but oh well. Got a partial refund on that and will scavenge some relays and connectors from it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2017 22:56
|
|
|
Love the build! F series swaps are awesome, I wanted to do one in a MG midget if I ever get more garage space. Let me know if you need any S2000 parts. Mine ditched the F series for some displacement so I have lots of little stuff floating around ranging from hasport uppers, ecus, harnesses, and some other junk from the turbo build. For cost of shipping if your lucky enough that I have it. I stupidly sold the motor for 850 because it was in my way so the rest of the auxiliary crap just went up to the loft. I also know a bit about the motor and made some big power with it. Definitely a great swap and really shines with boost. tehk fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Feb 15, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2017 06:37
|
|
|
tehk posted:Love the build! F series swaps are awesome, I wanted to do one in a MG midget if I ever get more garage space. What harnesses and ecu do you have? I just picked up a replacement dash harness on ebay because my swap didn't come with one. If you feel like doing an inventory send me a pm with what you have and I'll see what I can use. Motor mounts are delayed a bit more, they'll be able to get to them hopefully in two weeks. The shop move really messed things up for a lot of projects. I can drop off the car whenever and they'll work on things as they have time. I may drop it off next weekend, want to do some planning for wiring this week and next. Found someone local parting out a couple E30's so I may run over there and grab a bunch of stuff.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2017 12:50
|
|
|
Switch panel arrived   Engine was in place from the other day, this is pretty much were it'll sit    Made a super complex transmission crossbar, almost exhausted my fab skills on this one   Loaded it on a truck  Dropped it off at my friends shop for fab work. Engine mounts, transmission mount, mount oil tank and some other miscellaneous little stuff  It's also made it onto more social media https://www.instagram.com/p/BQv4oDPjGOI/?taken-by=dastautomotive 
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2017 00:00
|
|
|
Not a lot of progress but parts are being ordered and trickling in. Took several attempts but I now have banjo bolts for the steering rack, the 'glass' that goes over the oem dashboard (for mounting the Race-Tech Dash2) and believe it or not tail light harnesses with several feet of grimy old German wiring attached. Turns out there's a place a few hours north of me that parts out tons of E30/36/46 cars with good prices and fast shipping. Somehow his ad triggered one of my craigslist alerts. Fab work should be starting this week at the shop, they had another project from before the move that had to be completed first. I'm going to try to swing by after work tomorrow and yank out the full dashboard so I have something to work on at the house. I'm going stir crazy without things to work on. Got so bad I cleaned and reorganized the garage and part storage shed this weekend.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2017 21:19
|
|
|
I have some S2000 hasport upper mounts sitting on the floorof my prius if you need them that I am never gonna use or sell since I am using the billet lowers on my S2000 and they are worthless alone. If these black things look like they will be in the right position let me know.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2017 01:21
|
|
|
tehk posted:I have some S2000 hasport upper mounts sitting on the floorof my prius if you need them that I am never gonna use or sell since I am using the billet lowers on my S2000 and they are worthless alone. If these black things look like they will be in the right position let me know. There was a recent email circulating on the M3 mailing list about oil...no surprise it ended up being a very long thread. One of the topics mentioned, other than everyone favorite oil, was the use of an oil thermostat for track use. Several of the very experienced members recommended removing it completely as it's another point of failure. Now I'm questioning my plumbing plans. Quick review of my oil system: 3 gallon tank in trunk, roughly 3 gallons of oil, heat probe and wrap on tank, large setrab oil cooler and I had planned a 180f thermostat. Does it make any sense to keep the thermostat in the loop or am I just complicating things and adding another point of failure/leaks? The more I think about it the more unnecessary it seems NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Mar 7, 2017 |
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2017 11:04
|
|
|
Double posting because why not... Was thinking about my oil heaters on the way into work. I'd like them to be 'smart' so I can plug them in and not worry about them at the track, plenty of other poo poo to keep track of. Sketched out a super simple temp switch controlled circuit once I got to work then realized I can't be the only one doing this. Ton of options for under $50 on amazon. I just need to figure out how many amps the heat wrap and probe I have can draw. Idea is I'll have it heat and hold the oil at ~100c to help cook off any moisture Most probes I'm seeing are 400W max, wraps are that or less so until I can measure directly I'm assuming a max draw of 800W at 120V...6.6667A which isn't bad at all. Something like this designed for kitchen use would work fine and have an ok safety margin, may see if I can find something that can handle 15A to be safe - https://smile.amazon.com/WILLHI-WH1...pf_rd_i=desktop edit: or is this just me over complicating things again?
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2017 14:52
|
|
|
I would totally do that temperature controller, and am intending to do something similar. It might be overcomplicating or maybe not - it's possible that the heat wraps for dry sump tanks don't put out enough heat to cook the hell out of the oil in which case it's unnecessary but I like the idea and it doesn't even have to stay in the car. On the oil thermostat thing, I always roll my eyes at people talking about system reliability purely in terms of part counts. Mechanical thermostatic valves are a pretty loving mature technology - and I'd argue that running too cold of oil because something happened such that you were too rushed is a larger probability.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2017 15:18
|
|
|
Definitely keep a thermostat. Oil temp and pressure will be way less consistent without it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2017 17:43
|
|
|
I know you were looking for a hauler...How about a 4500 Duramax, former ambulance with a sleeper cab and available aluminum flat bed, only 143k and less than $7k (flatbed extra), OBO?
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2017 23:53
|
|
|
Wow that's one hell of a rig, that'd haul a car on the back and pull another on a trailer just fine. Common sense kicked in though and I realized the girlfriends truck is rated for 6500lb towing (yay towing package). It won't get great mileage but it'll pull it just fine and it means I don't have to buy/store/maintain/insure another vehicle for now. Still think a ramp truck would be awesome even though they're single use and impractical. Am keeping an eye out for enclosed trailers. Engine mounts should be worked on and hopefully finished this week. If not I may have to bring the car to another shop because I'm getting sick of waiting. In the mean time I've been ordering parts and planning all the wiring and plumbing. Picked up a used seat for a great price with mounting hardware is showing up today, I might head to the shop and install seat/wheel this week if there's time. Going a bit stir crazy without the car here to tinker with. Trying to decide if I'm going to run the dashboard, cut it down removing the passenger half or get rid of it completely.
|
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2017 11:56
|
|
|
This thing is going to be so good. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2017 13:17
|
|
|
It actually doesn't look that terrible without the dash if I clean up the steering shaft a bit. Was nice whoever built the cage made a mount for the steering bearing and they did a decent job of tying the pedal box into it as well. Wonder if it's worth removing as much of the ignition switch stuff as possible? I'll probably need some to mount the blinker/wiper/high stalks but other than that there isn't a need for it. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Mar 27, 2017 |
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2017 14:35
|
|
|
Project and I are not dead, things are just moving slow. Small shop so the fab guy is also a tech and extra pair of hands a lot of the time. A new master tech moved down to join the shop last week so the fab guy will be able to dedicate more time to actual fab work when he's not getting pulled off to help with things. He finished up the transmission mounts last night and was finalizing engine mount design. I'm stopping by tonight to drop off some tools I borrowed and checking on progress as well as hopefully scheduling a pick up time tomorrow maybe. From last week  Engine mount plate - these had to be re-cut, when they parted ways with the old shop the other owner hid a lot of stuff from them  Trans mounts as of ~7pm last night    \Meanwhile the parts pile is growing: Seat, mounts, harness Steering wheel, adapter, quick disconnect, button mount Brake/Clutch master cylinders, brake bias adjuster cable, braided lines, misc fittings Oil thermostat with filter, some oil lines Fuel pump, fittings, filter, mounts Micro heater (defrost), dash vents Harness tape, some connectors Battery, switch panel, kill switch, very rough wiring diagram Trying to pick wheel/tire size then I'll be ordering that as well as fuel cell. Once I get car back I'll start measuring runs for oil and fuel lines. There are hard lines run under the car with AN fittings for fuel, haven't decided if I'll use those yet. Need to look at race regs to see if I'm allowed to run the oil/fuel/brake lines through the cockpit. Also looking more into running E46 CSL abs/tcs but that may be a project for over the winter. edit: the new tech they hired left...crap NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Apr 25, 2017 |
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2017 11:44
|
|
|
 Transmission mounts done other than final welding of brackets to chassis. I'll probably add a cross brace to tie everything together.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2017 18:53
|
|
|
This is going to be so awesome. You'll need to bring it to the brodeo when it's done
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2017 22:48
|
|
|
Plan on bringing it to the fall Brodeo. May need to find a temporary non-full enclosure seat for that, I'm not going to have poo poo for street visibility with the regular seat.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2017 08:59
|
|
|
you should be drifting every single turn therefore you wont need to turn your head
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2017 17:23
|
|
|
Attempt number three...           NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 11:44 on May 29, 2017 |
|
#
?
May 10, 2017 21:22
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 23, 2024 11:13 |
|
|
Looks good. When you get it back do you have any more major choke points or just assembly, wire, and plumbing?
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2017 00:07
|
|