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HandlingByJebus posted:I have a set of CSL front and rear calipers that I took off the Z4M, already upgraded with brass guides, complete with braided stainless lines. PM me if you're interested, I will cut you a super Goon deal on them. Hell yes I'm interested, PM sent! edit: CSL goodies on the way to solve my brake issues. Either getting CAD files for brackets or a set of brackets themselves depending on how busy the guy is. Day save thanks to HandlingByJebus 2nd edit: Good way to do buttons for the dash2, especially since I'm still not sure about running a stock dash or buttons on the wheel. From http://bringatrailer.com/listing/2013-arel-atom-spec-racer-atom/?utm_source=dailymail&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2017-07-08 
NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 13:47 on Jul 8, 2017 |
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Jul 6, 2017 19:28
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Huge thanks to HandlingByJebus for selling me his spare parts for a great price. Had a little time to mess with them this morning just sizing things up. Work on the car has been minimal to say the least. Closing on a house (with a bigger garage) in a week and a half so we've been packing and getting this house ready to list. Combine that with it being too stupid hot and humid and I just haven't done poo poo in the garage...also I'm lazy after work  E46 M3 calipers fit pretty much perfect - center bore is identical   Blurry as hell shot of roughly where the caliper will go  Adapter doesn't look like it'll be too bad to design. Adapter will be roughly 22mm thick, E30 bolt spacing is ~2.25" while E46 is ~3". Need to find a more accurate way to measure bolt holes center-to-center then figure out how far out this caliper has to sit. May just do a quick on out of wood to get all the measurements.  
NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 09:59 on Jul 21, 2017 |
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Jul 21, 2017 09:35
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My pleasure! Can't wait to see the brakes and the rest of the car come together.
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Jul 21, 2017 16:47
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For measuring bolt spacing, if the holes are the same size, you can just measure from edge to edge of the holes, using the same edge (e.g. both left edges). A little fuzzier with threads, but still do-able. Or you could use a close-fitting transfer punch to mark the centers on a flat plate and measure that.
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Jul 21, 2017 17:59
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NitroSpazzz posted:2nd edit: Good way to do buttons for the dash2, especially since I'm still not sure about running a stock dash or buttons on the wheel. From http://bringatrailer.com/listing/2013-arel-atom-spec-racer-atom/?utm_source=dailymail&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2017-07-08 If you're having trouble finding variants on that button style, try OTTO Engineering. I think I was able to order the more common ones from Mouser or Newark, though there are other distribtors that may carry the uncommon stuff. They make some seriously nice hardware that isn't AliExpress garbage and isn't that expensive.
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Jul 21, 2017 20:24
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Darchangel posted:For measuring bolt spacing, if the holes are the same size, you can just measure from edge to edge of the holes, using the same edge (e.g. both left edges). A little fuzzier with threads, but still do-able. Or you could use a close-fitting transfer punch to mark the centers on a flat plate and measure that. DJ Commie posted:If you're having trouble finding variants on that button style, try OTTO Engineering. I think I was able to order the more common ones from Mouser or Newark, though there are other distribtors that may carry the uncommon stuff. They make some seriously nice hardware that isn't AliExpress garbage and isn't that expensive.
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Jul 21, 2017 21:52
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NitroSpazzz posted:Oh duh that'll make things easy. Yeah, I felt the same way the first time my dad pointed that method out.
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Jul 22, 2017 00:11
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If you don't need to be super accurate (below 0.1mm) then just measure outside to outside and inside to inside with a pair of calipers then take the average. Or if the holes are threaded 2 short / fully threaded socket head screws work as crude gauge pins. (I have to reverse engineer a lot of stuff at work)
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Jul 22, 2017 03:28
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Stuck the engine back in to prep for stuffing all the race car parts I have in the thing to bring it over to the new house next week. Decided to see how much trimming it was going to take for the shifter to fit since that was never really tested. Absolute pain in the rear end and I had to remove the shifter from the plate then install it through the shift hole but it fits pretty drat good. Should have paid a little more attention when tightening the transmission mounts because that bolt did a little custom forming to make things fit. Either way it fits and I was able to row through the gears for the first time IN THE CAR!  Work will be slowing to a crawl, yes slower than it is now, on the car for the next month or so while we move and get my house on the market then hopefully sold fairly quickly. Did get some measurements on the calipers this morning so I have a starting point for designing the mounts, think I figured out how I'll measure how far offset things have to be as well. May be able to sneak in some work here as there as time allows.
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Jul 25, 2017 22:34
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Anti-archive bump, car is at the new house safely. Think I have all the parts over here, need to unpack the car and organize the garage so I can start checking things off the list. Also pictured the race bike, 1996 Honda RS125
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Aug 25, 2017 09:57
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Two week anti-archive bump Think I found a used (2 races) fuel cell that'll work. It's bigger than I need at 22gal but I can use anti-displacement balls to get it down to size for WRL. Comes with a bunch of spare pumps and plumbing.
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Sep 8, 2017 11:08
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Anti-archive bump with truck stuff. New shocks, springs, helper leafs, front left wheel bearing, front calipers and sway bar links on the courier. Truck has had a pretty good workout moving stuff and doing dump runs but being almost 40 years old with original stuff it needed a refresh. This should help with the bottoming out, rubbing tire, with ~800lb in the back which is only about half capacity. May go through later and do all bushings because they're pretty shot too. Old house lists tonight, hope to arrange the garage and unpack the race car this weekend. Might actually be able to start working on it this week!
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Sep 29, 2017 09:50
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Fuel cell has shipped, should be arriving by weekend. One of four shelves assembled and I'll start making the garage usable after work if I don't crash as soon as I get home. Renovation crap mostly done so I should actually maybe have some race car time soon. anti-archive bump
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Oct 12, 2017 09:14
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NitroSpazzz posted:Fuel cell has shipped, should be arriving by weekend. One of four shelves assembled and I'll start making the garage usable after work if I don't crash as soon as I get home. Renovation crap mostly done so I should actually maybe have some race car time soon. I know this feeling. I should have my Z and MR2 in the same garage space for the first time ever (under my roof) come July when we take ownership of our new place. So I might actually get the Z done before I turn 45 because I'll be a month past 40 when the above happens.
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Oct 12, 2017 15:13
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Made some garage progress with a few Costco 'industrial' shelves. Managed to fill one with just race car stuff, another with tools/fluids/etc and have two left to fill with misc stuff. Went from this sad disorganized state:  To this:    Still some organization work to do and a few more things left in the car or scattered around the garage but this means I can almost start working on it again. Who am I kidding, I get married in 2 weeks, I have no time NitroSpazzz posted:Think I found a used (2 races) fuel cell that'll work. It's bigger than I need at 22gal but I can use anti-displacement balls to get it down to size for WRL. Comes with a bunch of spare pumps and plumbing.  Then while I was working on this I got an email from a guy selling a brand new SPA 4L fire suppression system he bought but never installed. I'll pick that up next time I head to Atlanta. The one upside to building a car slow as hell is deals pop up from time to time and you can save some cash.
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Oct 15, 2017 17:04
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Anti-archive and new truck bump. Will probably be some truck stuff tossed in here as well if I remember to take pictures.
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Nov 7, 2017 09:45
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NitroSpazzz posted:Anti-archive and new truck bump. Will probably be some truck stuff tossed in here as well if I remember to take pictures.  Perfect color combo, and with a matching cap!
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Nov 7, 2017 16:10
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I have a 1/25 scale model of an early Scirocco, and it has the exact same wheels on it, with the exact same poke. What I'm saying is 
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Nov 7, 2017 22:53
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Darchangel posted:I have a 1/25 scale model of an early Scirocco, and it has the exact same wheels on it, with the exact same poke. Guy I bought it from bought those wheels new from BBS in the early 80's. I had planned on sticking on a set of BMW bottlecaps or 14" BBS but these are growing on me. Front right leaks a bit so I need to look into that at some point.
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Nov 8, 2017 12:33
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NitroSpazzz posted:Guy I bought it from bought those wheels new from BBS in the early 80's. I had planned on sticking on a set of BMW bottlecaps or 14" BBS but these are growing on me. Front right leaks a bit so I need to look into that at some point. If you want something a bit larger so you can get tires for them, Rota has some nice looking vintage-styled wheels (which is a nice way of saying replicas, of course) in 15" with a bunch of 4-bolt patterns. I was very surprised to see that they had all of them in 4x110mm for RX-7s and other early Mazdas. I posted several pictures in my AE86 thread, since I was looking for wheels for that car. http://www.rotawheels.com/product-category/passenger The OS-Mesh might do for you:  Only problem is that for some reason Rotas are not exactly high production, so some specific offsets and bolt patterns are a little harder to come by. And the usual fanboy hate for "reps".
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Nov 8, 2017 17:57
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Hey, I have a wheel center that looks like that... only one bolt hole though so a little harder to bolt up. 
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Nov 8, 2017 18:17
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mekilljoydammit posted:Hey, I have a wheel center that looks like that... only one bolt hole though so a little harder to bolt up. "Hey, so what's the bolt pattern on those?" "1x0."
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Nov 8, 2017 21:30
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IOwnCalculus posted:"Hey, so what's the bolt pattern on those?" Ah, but then you have to make sure you have the right number of drive pins. Or splines, I guess.
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Nov 10, 2017 01:02
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Slight diversion from the race car stuff. Working on getting the Caddy up to where it could be a daily driver. Three things holding it back right now; no heater blower, no wipers, dash lights stay on about 50% draining battery. Also needs new headlights and a conversion to get rid of the points ignition. Today I started by tackling the blower motor since that will hopefully be the worst job...it sucked a bit. First step is pull the fresh air ducting under the hood. This is a pretty common rust spot and the previous owner put some sort of rubber goop all around the base of the housing to keep water from seeping underneath before they painted the top half of truck. It was a pain the rear end to peel off. It did work pretty good though and there was only a little debris under it and no rust.  Between picking at that stuff I reached in and got a couple handfuls of mouse nest.  ...eventually chipped it all away then fought with stripped screws to eventually get the box off. Gaskets are toast, not sure if I'll be able to get replacements or if I'll just be making something.     Blower enclosure was full of crap, I couldn't even spin the blower by hand.     Removed the blower, took a shop vac to everything and scrapped away all the crap. Spin the motor by hand a few times to make sure it wasn't locked up. Turned just a little rough so doused it in lube and hooked it directly to 12V and it spun. Checked voltage coming in at the connector, still 12v there. Plugged it back in and temporary mounted it to test. Highest speed worked, 2nd highest squealed, from there down nothing. More lube and 5 minutes at high then everything worked. Only one casualty from the day  Have to stick everything back together but that's one thing off the list. I pulled the wiper motor hoping it was just bound up linkages but it's toast. I may open up the gearbox, I'm guessing the lube has solidified, but I have a replacement on the way. The dash and ash tray light thing will take some tracing. Ignition switch tests good, x circuit (load reduction) is good and all the other relays are working as they should. That'll probably be the final issue to address, I'm just pulling the fuse for now. Though as I was typing this I realized it might be the headlight switch...duh.
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Nov 11, 2017 23:23
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NitroSpazzz posted:Though as I was typing this I realized it might be the headlight switch...duh. That was my first thought.
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Nov 14, 2017 18:49
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Did the headlight switch today...old one didn't have the ground plugged in but was crusty so replaced it anyway. This didn't fix the issue  Need to see what fuses should be hot with the ignition off and see where the PO hosed with the wiring. For now I may not have dash lights but everything else works. I'm going to drive it into work all week and see what breaks!Figured out a lot of the wiring stuff over the holidays with Dad, he's also going to see if any of the parts cars have a good condition compatible chassis harness. Work MAY be starting on the race car soon
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Nov 26, 2017 19:45
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Stupid question, but have you made sure that the dash light dimmer is not set to minimum?
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Nov 28, 2017 22:36
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Darchangel posted:Stupid question, but have you made sure that the dash light dimmer is not set to minimum? It's not stupid, I've actually helped a Random Internet Person with that very problem/solution.
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Nov 28, 2017 22:44
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mine literally wont work unless its pitch black out or unless the lights are set to on in manual mode so no thats not a dumb question
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Nov 28, 2017 22:46
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Darchangel posted:Stupid question, but have you made sure that the dash light dimmer is not set to minimum? In other news I've been driving it in this week and now that it has some miles it's running great. No more hiccups, misses or stuttering and will cruise at 80 just fine. I did have to block the radiator with cardboard to get any heat into the engine so I'll be replacing the thermostat and flushing the loop this weekend. Still haven't decided if the topper is staying but I'm leaning toward removing it one of these weekends once I clear a spot for it to be stored.
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Nov 29, 2017 12:31
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Ok, just wanted to make sure that’s been covered. I’ve been baffled by that before, fortunately not more than a few minutes or so, and I once fixed a dead speaker issue at the stereo shop I worked at by adjusting the balance. I have changed out a starter because I didn’t put a car in park, before, however. ‘68 El Camino doesn’t have the shifter-ignition interlock (dash mounted ignition) so you could shut off the car and pull the key with it in gear. First car, and it was the console automatic (why didn’t I keep that car!).
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Nov 29, 2017 15:29
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My brother's wife has called a tow truck, and/or my brother several times because she left her car in drive when she turned it and now it won't start. After the 2nd or 3rd time he makes her check this first, which she bitches about, and has been the issue every time. It's a monthly occurrence.
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Nov 29, 2017 17:08
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Condolences to your brother.
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Nov 29, 2017 18:09
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NitroSpazzz posted:My brother's wife has called a tow truck, and/or my brother several times because she left her car in drive when she turned it and now it won't start. After the 2nd or 3rd time he makes her check this first, which she bitches about, and has been the issue every time. It's a monthly occurrence. I do this whenever I drive an automatic and I feel super dumb about it every time. Hasn't gotten to the point of calling a tow truck yet.
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Nov 29, 2017 23:28
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Saturday was planned as a rearrange garage (again), Caddy thermostat and maybe get some race car time in day...instead I flooded a bathroom. So after cleaning that up and deploying heaters, fans and dehumidifiers it was already getting late. On the upside it did make me rearrange the garage since there was water in the basement Did the thermostat before it got dark so I could stop blocking the radiator with cardboard. In non-Roadkill style I managed to catch most of the coolant which is only ~6 months old according to the PO. There's a bit of a sheen to it which is slightly concerning.  Then I discovered why the thermostat hadn't been working...it wasn't there. Guy put in new radiator, hoses and coolant but skipped the $3-5 thermostat and $2 gasket. He REALLY seems to like red RTV.   Super easy job though, once coolant was drained it took 5 minutes and most of that was finding emery cloth to clean up the surfaces.
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Dec 5, 2017 12:32
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I bet he took the thermostat out to fix the broken cooling system and then actually fixed it when the redneck thermostat delete didn't fix it. But never put a thermostat back in.
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Dec 6, 2017 04:41
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You know that completely makes sense. Especially since he was driving it in the summer on nice days so overheating or never getting to temp were never an issue. Things have dried out enough over the past few days I can pull down the tarps and clean up the desiccant packs and moisture absorbing stuff then move cars back into the back half of the garage. Am going to play with floorplanner a bit and see which way of arranging the three cars (E21/E30/E28) would leave the most room for working along the North wall of the house. I'm probably wrong but I think with the three packed together for winter storage mode I'd have enough space to comfortably work on the track car back there. Not a huge deal if I can't but if I can...I'd be able to park the DD or the Caddy in the garage over the winter. edit: like this 
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Dec 6, 2017 12:36
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Love this build, something about shoving different motors into these things even though now most of them are 'Investments' is always good. Here's another fairly batshit swap build thread which makes a fun read. https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=47&t=477949
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Dec 6, 2017 12:59
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track day bro! posted:Love this build, something about shoving different motors into these things even though now most of them are 'Investments' is always good. Oh hell yeah. Why have I never thought about s/c before? I immediately wrote off turbo in my future because slant 6 and steering box E: rust, rust. Why am I not suprised based on where the car is from and "recent respray". Rust free was the main thing I cared about when looking for a project car. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 10:58 on Dec 15, 2017 |
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Dec 15, 2017 10:48
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Bump to keep thread from getting archived...not sure how long it takes. I'll be honest, I haven't done poo poo to the car. I've been lazy, overwhelmed with work/life/etc and haven't done much in the garage at all lately. Going to make myself spend a few hours today and hopefully mon/tues with the wife doing some organization since the garage is still a disaster with boxes and stuff all over. I'm also not sure where to start when I do get back to working on it. I'm leaning toward figuring out trunk layout for fuel cell, oil tank and fire bottle since that shouldn't cost anything until I start cutting/welding. After that I think I'll tackle fuel and oil plumbing probably followed by wiring or brakes. Still need to figure out brake adapters. VERY open to suggestions on order to tackle things. house STILL hasn't sold so I'm trying not to spend much money on the project because two mortgages sucks
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Dec 29, 2017 12:13
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