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Darchangel posted:I have a 1/25 scale model of an early Scirocco, and it has the exact same wheels on it, with the exact same poke. Guy I bought it from bought those wheels new from BBS in the early 80's. I had planned on sticking on a set of BMW bottlecaps or 14" BBS but these are growing on me. Front right leaks a bit so I need to look into that at some point.
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Nov 8, 2017 12:33
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 23:26 |
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Slight diversion from the race car stuff. Working on getting the Caddy up to where it could be a daily driver. Three things holding it back right now; no heater blower, no wipers, dash lights stay on about 50% draining battery. Also needs new headlights and a conversion to get rid of the points ignition. Today I started by tackling the blower motor since that will hopefully be the worst job...it sucked a bit. First step is pull the fresh air ducting under the hood. This is a pretty common rust spot and the previous owner put some sort of rubber goop all around the base of the housing to keep water from seeping underneath before they painted the top half of truck. It was a pain the rear end to peel off. It did work pretty good though and there was only a little debris under it and no rust.  Between picking at that stuff I reached in and got a couple handfuls of mouse nest.  ...eventually chipped it all away then fought with stripped screws to eventually get the box off. Gaskets are toast, not sure if I'll be able to get replacements or if I'll just be making something.     Blower enclosure was full of crap, I couldn't even spin the blower by hand.     Removed the blower, took a shop vac to everything and scrapped away all the crap. Spin the motor by hand a few times to make sure it wasn't locked up. Turned just a little rough so doused it in lube and hooked it directly to 12V and it spun. Checked voltage coming in at the connector, still 12v there. Plugged it back in and temporary mounted it to test. Highest speed worked, 2nd highest squealed, from there down nothing. More lube and 5 minutes at high then everything worked. Only one casualty from the day  Have to stick everything back together but that's one thing off the list. I pulled the wiper motor hoping it was just bound up linkages but it's toast. I may open up the gearbox, I'm guessing the lube has solidified, but I have a replacement on the way. The dash and ash tray light thing will take some tracing. Ignition switch tests good, x circuit (load reduction) is good and all the other relays are working as they should. That'll probably be the final issue to address, I'm just pulling the fuse for now. Though as I was typing this I realized it might be the headlight switch...duh.
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Nov 11, 2017 23:23
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Did the headlight switch today...old one didn't have the ground plugged in but was crusty so replaced it anyway. This didn't fix the issue  Need to see what fuses should be hot with the ignition off and see where the PO hosed with the wiring. For now I may not have dash lights but everything else works. I'm going to drive it into work all week and see what breaks!Figured out a lot of the wiring stuff over the holidays with Dad, he's also going to see if any of the parts cars have a good condition compatible chassis harness. Work MAY be starting on the race car soon
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Nov 26, 2017 19:45
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Darchangel posted:Stupid question, but have you made sure that the dash light dimmer is not set to minimum? In other news I've been driving it in this week and now that it has some miles it's running great. No more hiccups, misses or stuttering and will cruise at 80 just fine. I did have to block the radiator with cardboard to get any heat into the engine so I'll be replacing the thermostat and flushing the loop this weekend. Still haven't decided if the topper is staying but I'm leaning toward removing it one of these weekends once I clear a spot for it to be stored.
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Nov 29, 2017 12:31
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My brother's wife has called a tow truck, and/or my brother several times because she left her car in drive when she turned it and now it won't start. After the 2nd or 3rd time he makes her check this first, which she bitches about, and has been the issue every time. It's a monthly occurrence.
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Nov 29, 2017 17:08
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Saturday was planned as a rearrange garage (again), Caddy thermostat and maybe get some race car time in day...instead I flooded a bathroom. So after cleaning that up and deploying heaters, fans and dehumidifiers it was already getting late. On the upside it did make me rearrange the garage since there was water in the basement Did the thermostat before it got dark so I could stop blocking the radiator with cardboard. In non-Roadkill style I managed to catch most of the coolant which is only ~6 months old according to the PO. There's a bit of a sheen to it which is slightly concerning.  Then I discovered why the thermostat hadn't been working...it wasn't there. Guy put in new radiator, hoses and coolant but skipped the $3-5 thermostat and $2 gasket. He REALLY seems to like red RTV.   Super easy job though, once coolant was drained it took 5 minutes and most of that was finding emery cloth to clean up the surfaces.
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Dec 5, 2017 12:32
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You know that completely makes sense. Especially since he was driving it in the summer on nice days so overheating or never getting to temp were never an issue. Things have dried out enough over the past few days I can pull down the tarps and clean up the desiccant packs and moisture absorbing stuff then move cars back into the back half of the garage. Am going to play with floorplanner a bit and see which way of arranging the three cars (E21/E30/E28) would leave the most room for working along the North wall of the house. I'm probably wrong but I think with the three packed together for winter storage mode I'd have enough space to comfortably work on the track car back there. Not a huge deal if I can't but if I can...I'd be able to park the DD or the Caddy in the garage over the winter. edit: like this 
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Dec 6, 2017 12:36
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Bump to keep thread from getting archived...not sure how long it takes. I'll be honest, I haven't done poo poo to the car. I've been lazy, overwhelmed with work/life/etc and haven't done much in the garage at all lately. Going to make myself spend a few hours today and hopefully mon/tues with the wife doing some organization since the garage is still a disaster with boxes and stuff all over. I'm also not sure where to start when I do get back to working on it. I'm leaning toward figuring out trunk layout for fuel cell, oil tank and fire bottle since that shouldn't cost anything until I start cutting/welding. After that I think I'll tackle fuel and oil plumbing probably followed by wiring or brakes. Still need to figure out brake adapters. VERY open to suggestions on order to tackle things. house STILL hasn't sold so I'm trying not to spend much money on the project because two mortgages sucks
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Dec 29, 2017 12:13
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We're renting the Wife's house to my brother, once we close on my house he gets three months to find a new place. Renting sucks, renting to family is even worse. We got an offer on the house an hour ago and submitted our counter so now we wait. So the VW Caddy I picked up had been running kind of rough, I had just assumed because it wasn't being driven enough. Went to run some errands with it yesterday and it would barely stay running. Exhaust was smokier than it should have been and smelled like oil. Plugs 3 and 4 are covered in oil (4-3-2-1 in pic) and tailpipe is coated in oil. So looks like that'll need some attention. Not sure where my compression tester went but that's first then go from there.   The wife has suggested taking the engine from the 300k mile 2000 Golf TDI and putting it in the Caddy then getting something newer for daily driver duty. It's certainly tempting
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Dec 31, 2017 01:49
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Surprised this didn't get archived so bumping it again. Nicer weather has had me doing little things but mostly on the other vehicles so far. Put new shocks on the F100, helped the vibration a little but it's still bad. Next step might be to go through and replace all the front end rubber...I may hire that one out
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Jan 30, 2018 14:14
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charliemonster42 posted:re: the vibration - are all the bearings in the U-joints good? That would definitely cause vibration. A3th3r posted:i love the idea of a "DTM M3" but I feel like what I would probably do is get an ecu flash & a tune up for a few hundred bucks & call it a day. But yeah you keep at it with the modifying of the vehicle 
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Feb 3, 2018 13:56
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S54 is a torque monster compared to a F20 The AEM ecu I have has the VTEC dropped to 4500 or 5k which should help even though I doubt I'll see below 5k very often on track I took tomorrow off for birthday to play in the garage. Wife's convinced me to do "no old house poo poo" either so I might actually have an update worth posting. Worst case I mess with the Caddy a bit and see if I can un-stick that ring NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Feb 4, 2018 |
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Feb 4, 2018 20:00
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Tried the ATF in the cylinders and oil trick to un-stick the ring in cylinder 1 of the caddy yesterday...it went ok? Put a couple ml in each cylinder Sunday night then turned the engine over by hand a few times before putting plugs back in and turning it over a couple more times. Drain 1 quart oil, put in 1 quart ATF. Yesterday start it up and hold at high idle until up to temp. I never got to temp before it started running like absolute rear end, being ~35 degrees didn't help things. Changed plugs, oil and filters - fun fact it didn't have a drat air filter. Started right up and held a perfect, if slightly high, idle until it started to get up to temp. Once it was 1/4 way warmed up it started misfiring again and I'm pretty sure it fouled plug/s again. So I think I need to put in fresh plug/s and just go drive the piss out of it. While messing with that I fixed the auto choke on the F100 and rigged up a temporary battery tie down. Something is up with the automatic transmission, doesn't like to go into or hold gear when it's cold. Might just be low on fluid or something simple but add that to the list of poo poo to do  Bringing what should be the final load of crap from the old house over tonight. Mostly yard tools, tarps and stuff but there's a couple transmissions (vw, bmw) and other misc car parts. Should have done it yesterday but Caddy stuff took longer than expected as always. Actually meant to work on race car yesterday but went up for lunch and woke up three hours later when wife got home as which point we had b-day plans NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 12:23 on Feb 6, 2018 |
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Feb 6, 2018 10:20
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Looks like three weeks without a post isn't auto lock thread either....that's good to know. I've ordered some 320i parts and a couple misc things for race car so maybe I'll have something to update. Caddy still isn't running, I might actually have to do a compression check or pull the head. Talking with electrician friend about wiring the garage since one light bulb and outlet per side is a drat joke for doing anything in the garage.
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Mar 1, 2018 12:40
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Got a little garage time this weekend. Cleaned things up, changed oil in a few vehicles then looked at how everything was going to fit in the trunk. Oil tank and fire bottle will go in back corners, tank centered. I got kind of lucky and the used tank I picked up is pretty close in size to the opening already cut and braced in the floor. Tank is 17x25 while the hole is 20x24.5. I'll also be using the mounting surface half way up the tank so it doesn't hang down too far. In case the car does see wheel to wheel I'll have to build a enclosure around the bottom out of 1" square tubing. I did run into some issues when I went to test fit:  It should fit when I remove the top plate, it was hanging up on the bolt heads.
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Mar 5, 2018 15:10
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 23:26 |
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More non-m3 content to keep the thread alive. Fixed a vacuum leak on the F100, it now runs and starts like it should. Have new wheels, hoping to get tires mounted this week or next weekend. Spent a couple hours on the Caddy and finally did a compression test. I was very amazed when all cylinders tested good at 140+ psi. New battery, old one froze, and plugs had it firing occasionally. Intermittent ignition switch issues are popping back up again so that'll be replaced. Was able to fix some of the issues by cleaning the grounds and battery connections. Need to get some fresh gas in there then I think it will start other than having to jumper the fuel pump. So symptoms (non-ignition related) are cylinder 1 fouls plugs. Compression is good and even across the engine. Fuel pump only runs when in crank position but that's bad ignition. With fuel relay jumpered it starts and runs for a few seconds but throttle has little to no impact. Once I do that enough times plugs in 1 are fouled enough that it needs to be pulled and cleaned. Cylinder 2 plug gets some oil but not as bad as 1. Some googling makes me think valve seals are likely, even more so because the engine has sat for 10+ years before I got it. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 09:40 on Mar 19, 2018 |
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Mar 18, 2018 20:09
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