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TWSS
Jun 19, 2008

Phone posted:

The fast S2K guys put K motors in when their F series gives up the ghost. I think it's only a few hundred bucks to squeeze more power out of it, and since it's going into a race car, the exhaust is a gimme.

Yeah, a K24a2 (the TSX engine) will safely spin to 7800 and make 220/180 with just the RBC intake from the 2008-2011 civic SI, a good exhaust and a tune. Which is around 50 more ft-lbs than a full bolt-ons s2k motor.

Saga posted:

Also needs the big DOHC vtec stickers from a 90s civic.

Yes, this is mandatory.

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TWSS
Jun 19, 2008
That engine is clean as gently caress, I can see why you're set on getting some use out of it before community pressure forces you to drop in a ITB k24 with 14:1 compression. That being said, throw an oil pan baffle in there. With the 4-5 s2ks that have come through the shop, the ones that don't have baffles have all shown signs of oil starvation with cam lobe wear. One that has 180k kms has a better looking top end than one with 65k.

TWSS
Jun 19, 2008

NitroSpazzz posted:

Oil pan is definitely getting a baffle, don't like tracking anything without one. From what you've seen do any stand out as more effective than the others? Haven't been ordered anything yet but am looking at what's available.

The stock oil pan is a cast aluminum unit which is good for overall rigidity of the block, so I would stay away from full-on replacement pans made from sheet metal. The toda/spoon units are effective, but blacktrax basically copied their design and are selling it for half the price. That being said, you already have a honda oil pan, so a weld/bolt-in unit would be the most cost effective. I've only installed bolt-in baffles on k-series motors and never had an issue with leaking since i coat the bolts in hondabond/permatex ultra grey. Welding to a used oil pan is always going to be a dirty job because it's a real bitch to get the all the old oil out of aluminum because it's so porous.

TWSS
Jun 19, 2008

kastein posted:

That depends. I've seen some really beautiful TIG work done on junkyard Vortec cast alloy pans by guys on the Sloppy Mechanics FB group. I think a lot of it has to do with the alloy, casting method, cleanup performed, and the person between the pedal and the torch.

It's definitely possible if you have the time and patience to clean it properly, but I just don't bother because the bolt-in baffles work fine. I did some research and it seems like there isn't a well thought out bolt-in solution for the s2k, so the moroso weld in baffle is probably your best option.

TWSS
Jun 19, 2008


If you're handy with sheet metal, you could probably just make something like this (but for the f20 oil pan) that includes a shroud with trap-doors for the pickup and another shroud that restricts flow to the timing chain area so it doesn't froth the oil on hard braking.

TWSS
Jun 19, 2008

InitialDave posted:

Do you really need to worry about it too much? It's not like it's anything structural, so if the shape fits neatly into the internal profile of the sump, it shouldn't need anything too heavy-duty to hold it in position.

Exactly! That's why fasteners save you the hour of labour and $$ of solvents needed to prep a used pan for welding. On a brand new pan welding is a great idea and you can instagram the stacked dimes, but I wouldn't pay for welds on an oil pan unless it needs to be modified to solve a clearance problem.

TWSS
Jun 19, 2008
If you have the money, I think designing your own mounts that utilize the smaller packaging of a dry-sump is the best idea. It would probably enable you to nestle the engine lower and closer to the firewall than you would with a stock pan.

TWSS
Jun 19, 2008
Since you guys are on the topic, anyone have a notion of which units are compatible with hondata?

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TWSS
Jun 19, 2008
If I was in your position I would sell the ap calipers and get a bbk from someone stateside to access cheaper consumables with less lead time. Also, the rotors on those AP racing calipers seem kind of thin for what you have planned here.

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