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TWSS posted:The stock oil pan is a cast aluminum unit which is good for overall rigidity of the block, so I would stay away from full-on replacement pans made from sheet metal. The toda/spoon units are effective, but blacktrax basically copied their design and are selling it for half the price. That being said, you already have a honda oil pan, so a weld/bolt-in unit would be the most cost effective. I've only installed bolt-in baffles on k-series motors and never had an issue with leaking since i coat the bolts in hondabond/permatex ultra grey. Welding to a used oil pan is always going to be a dirty job because it's a real bitch to get the all the old oil out of aluminum because it's so porous. That depends. I've seen some really beautiful TIG work done on junkyard Vortec cast alloy pans by guys on the Sloppy Mechanics FB group. I think a lot of it has to do with the alloy, casting method, cleanup performed, and the person between the pedal and the torch.
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Sep 20, 2016 00:19
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 07:13 |
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I agree, as long as it's a proven design, that's around $2k USD at current exchange rates. If you blow up just one F20C trying to make your own patched together setup work to save a few hundred bucks, you're already behind AND need to buy a drysump or redesign your homebrew thing. There are times when I'll homebrew the hell out of something to save money (subframes, motor and trans mount brackets, crossmembers, wiring harnesses, etc) and times when it's just silly to consider it unless it's your day job.
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Sep 28, 2016 17:17
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I'm not familiar with that motor at all, but I thought most drysump setups put the oil into the block through the same spot the factory pump does, just passed through the machined sump from an AN fitting on the outside.
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Oct 24, 2016 16:07
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Not sure if the F20C has this issue, but I know on my EF12, the timing chain guide actually has oil passages in it and is supplied off the end of an oil gallery, so double check that you don't have any wide-open oil gallery ends sticking out of the end of the block after removing some of the chain guides...
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Nov 15, 2016 00:12
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Raluek posted:Yeah, good luck. Despite their name, I haven't had much luck finding anything oddball or metric there without having it shipped from another location (for which they will charge you extra). Their website is at least moderately decent at predicting what they'll have in stock, though. Same. I don't even bother with fastenmost and grainger anymore, boltdepot covers 90% of my metric needs, mcmaster has another 9%, and belmetric is good too but I haven't had to look at their site in like 3 years. Boltdepot is even local-ish to me so if I order by 2-4pm and get ups ground shipping it arrives next day.
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Nov 15, 2016 13:19
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I swear I have seen that connector somewhere. I think it is a Tyco or sumitomo product.
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Dec 26, 2016 16:41
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 07:13 |
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I bet he took the thermostat out to fix the broken cooling system and then actually fixed it when the redneck thermostat delete didn't fix it. But never put a thermostat back in.
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Dec 6, 2017 04:41
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