|
Jesus poo poo, TT44s in the rear? Proper bits. You know they have TTX front strut setups too right? Just a bit of fab...  (and probably doubling the cost of the shell)Nice basis and cool idea. Quick thing on the todo though - you don't need a bias valve with a pedal box that has a movable pivot. Because, you know, I'm sure that will make or break the bank.
|
#
¿
Sep 13, 2016 18:05
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 01:48 |
|
|
Those look just like parts of Ground Control camber plates. Well, the camber platey things, obviously. Nice looking collection of stuff so far. Calipers aren't bleeding edge blingy, (look like cast 2-piece jobs) but AP stuff isn't crap.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 14, 2016 21:37
|
|
|
For 1500 pounds for a pump and pan that's proven to work, I'd hit it unless you're really willing to do trial and error stuff. Though it's not like it's stupidly large amounts of flow - I'm seeing about 60l/min at 6k RPM, and I'm skeptical that it's not hitting pressure relief valve too. I'd be really surprised if the engine is somehow actually using 100l/min at 9k RPM and not shunting most of it through the bypass valve. You could take those numbers and hit someone up for pump specs, but then the price of the pump and you're back in the territory of that RET unit and have to figure out how to mount it. I would hit ebay for a tank though, and you can run hardline for most of the oil lines to reduce cost there.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 28, 2016 17:04
|
|
|
kastein posted:... and times when it's just silly to consider it unless it's your day job. And we reach the point where I'm questioning the wisdom of my research on dry sump poo poo for a 13B. 
|
|
#
¿
Sep 28, 2016 17:24
|
|
|
NitroSpazzz posted:Need to decide if it's worth putting the tank all the way in the trunk for better weight distribution at the expense of longer lines or if I go with an engine bay or passenger tank. The *exact* answer is going to depend on corner weights and stuff, but the usual answer is "around where the passenger seat would be". Means you have to build an aluminum box around it, but I've never seen a production based race car where it *isn't* a struggle to move enough crap to the passenger side to help the corner weights.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 2, 2016 14:04
|
|
|
Most tank heaters are designed to run off 110V AC, FYI. Too much wattage for batteries - it's a "do in the pits" sort of thing.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 9, 2016 17:45
|
|
|
I'd come spectate, but I'm trying to get back to casting stuff. 16" race tire availability kinda sucks. Hoosier does some DOTs but the slicks for 16" wheels are pretty much all geared towards GT2/GT1 monsters - way more tire than you need. Any other tire manufacturer is going to be even worse.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 12, 2016 23:51
|
|
|
NitroSpazzz posted:That's what I'm finding, Hoosier R6 is a 275 width 16 which won't fit. There's more used 17" wheels floating around too so I'll probably go that way. Initially I'll probably run a set of Star Specs then once I wear those out go with proper slicks. Hey, happy to help - I've basically been planning how to move to more and more professional versions of the stuff I'm doing for the last 15 years, so I just have a head start.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 13, 2016 01:58
|
|
|
The LFX swap is neat and all, but the trans gear ratios just don't do it for me... that and I hate the idea of being married to factory wiring/ECUs and stuff. Go go gadget why-won't-it-loving-run!? And questions of where you'd roadrace it, but I probably worry about that more than most. NitroSpazzz, you ever make it up to spectate at the June Sprints or anything?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 13, 2016 16:07
|
|
|
NitroSpazzz posted:I haven't but I'd like to, I've been out of the loop other than WRL lately but with this car that should change a bit. I'll mostly be doing events in the South East though. May bring it up for the occasional BIR/RA event. Oh, duh, with the RA talk, I didn't twig that you're not actually local. This is past the end of the season for me; just drained the MX-5's water last night, and none-too-soon given the bit of a freeze last night. Well, I'm crewing for my dad (and maybe racing soon myself) at a lot of Midwestern Council or SCCA Regional races at RA or Blackhawk (and usually spectating at the June Sprints and the big vintage race at RA) so I'll run into you if I do. Larrymer posted:He's talking about swapping in camaro v6's in there. 300hp without track issues that turbos have. FTFY. Although I don't think that there's enough of a knowledge base yet to say what issues the LFX does and doesn't have on track. All depends on if GM anticipated someone ever taking a V6 Camaro on track, and I wouldn't put money on it.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 14, 2016 14:27
|
|
|
Sure, and I follow a couple people working on swaps for stuff that will see race track use too. They full well acknowledge that it's unknown what issues will crop up, but yeah, there's some factors that make it an interesting swap, I guess.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 15, 2016 01:24
|
|
|
What was your time?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 15, 2016 02:20
|
|
|
Phone posted:e: i misread LFX as LFA, nm Check the engine performance section, ThePass is doing one. MT is an interesting thing. There's a lot of technical expertise there, but I feel like there's a lot of "big fish in a little pond" going on. When the fastest turbo Miata lap at Laguna Seca I've found (Bob Bundy's big turbo car) is about part with Matt Reynold's EProd Miata it makes me scratch my head a bit. And yes, I full well admit it's getting into a dick measuring contest with someone else's dick when I'm nowhere near as fast as either, but still.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 15, 2016 21:34
|
|
|
Ow. Well that sucks.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 16, 2016 01:20
|
|
|
Phone posted:With MT you just gotta pray that someone knowledgeable swings in and that Vlad/18psi doesn't find the thread. I've gotten decent at sifting out poo poo from actual facts on internet forums by now. ... and there's a reason I'm building a rotary Miata instead of a turbo one. Well, a lot of reasons.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2016 02:04
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:So where is the build thread on this? A couple pages down; I'll bump it in the next few days if I get progress on the rotary flowbench adapter done. There's not a hell of a lot in it yet because I've been delayed by having homeowner poo poo to take care of. And should probably have it renamed from it's more generic rotary engine title to one about rotary miatas, but the project changed from "I'm not sure" to "I'm doing this!" partway through.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2016 12:42
|
|
|
McMaster does that a lot. It's pretty awesome.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 16, 2016 21:05
|
|
|
It amuses me the extent to which E30s are sort of the sacred cow. The S14 was cool because it was amazingly close to a race engine in a production car for the time, and the overall combination was good, but FFS it's just a car, and objectively one with all sorts of flaws.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 25, 2016 15:51
|
|
|
Some of those points are making me muse on the giant pile of 1st gen RX-7s I have sitting around in various states of completeness actually... all were intended as parts or shell donors for race cars so there's no fully original cars out there though, but I'm not going to (likely) go through that many shells now.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 26, 2016 02:54
|
|
|
Given it's an E30 I actually kind of like the oldschool gauge setup, though I'd be tempted to have sarcastic pseudo-German words instead of actual German words. Also, having done my research, I'd personally much prefer an AIM dash to the Racepak setup. Racepak does this thing where they make you buy dongles for every additional thing you want to plug in, and that annoys me.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 12, 2017 15:14
|
|
|
Big red light; "Motorblowen"? Ideally with umlauts on the o, but I don't know how to type that offhand.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 12, 2017 16:09
|
|
|
Valid point of view. Personally, as an engineer, I want stupidly large amounts of DAQ channels (seriously, I'm at something like 50 channels for my planned setup) and a display smart enough to tell me to either stop the car now, or back off. From doing everything but driving for my dad and seeing how many blown engines resulted from missing poo poo on analog gauges, I won't ever do anything on my money that doesn't have the ability to have big red lights.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 16, 2017 00:14
|
|
|
Basically all of them, I think. Heck, most of them are compatible with more or less everything down to and including Megasquirt. I like the Aim dashes and they're pretty professional. Nothing to fault with that choice (he says, of someone else's purchase)
|
|
#
¿
Jan 17, 2017 19:40
|
|
|
You all know about Ballenger Motorsports, right? Also https://racespeconline.com/products/k-series-ecu-connector-kit?variant=24645517569 mekilljoydammit fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Feb 11, 2017 |
|
#
¿
Feb 11, 2017 21:11
|
|
|
I would totally do that temperature controller, and am intending to do something similar. It might be overcomplicating or maybe not - it's possible that the heat wraps for dry sump tanks don't put out enough heat to cook the hell out of the oil in which case it's unnecessary but I like the idea and it doesn't even have to stay in the car. On the oil thermostat thing, I always roll my eyes at people talking about system reliability purely in terms of part counts. Mechanical thermostatic valves are a pretty loving mature technology - and I'd argue that running too cold of oil because something happened such that you were too rushed is a larger probability.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 7, 2017 15:18
|
|
|
Coleman racing is relatively low buck and good quality. Almost anyone else worth using will be worse money.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 5, 2017 00:16
|
|
|
Coleman does solid rotors too. $335 per rotor for solid rotors is ridiculous.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 5, 2017 18:46
|
|
|
NitroSpazzz posted:Rotors with Coleman hats would be AP Racing 280x9.6mm https://www.apracing.com/product_details/race_car/brake_discs/solid_discs/%C3%B8280mm/9.6mm_thickness/176.8mm_p.c.d.-bolted-cp5000-177.aspx OK, those are 11" diameter by 3/8" thick with the standard 8x7" PCD mount... so metric looking but not really. Formula Continental is almost universally about 10" diameter and usually 6 bolt, so that's no good, and Atlantic is going to be vented. Coleman's custom bolt mount solid rotors are here http://www.colemanracing.com/Brake-Rotor-14-12-Custom-Solid-Mount-P4592.aspx ... so that's any size between 1/4 to 1/2" thick, diameter up to 12 3/16", any bolt pattern, for about a hundred bucks, and that's for still hat mounted. *quickedit* If you didn't have the rear calipers I'd be tempted to go to 11x0.81" vented rotors because that ironically makes the consumable cost cheaper. mekilljoydammit fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Jul 5, 2017 |
|
#
¿
Jul 5, 2017 21:32
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 01:48 |
|
|
Hey, I have a wheel center that looks like that... only one bolt hole though so a little harder to bolt up.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 8, 2017 18:17
|
|