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jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Hood scoops bad, hood louvers good.

Can you use cameras instead of side mirrors for less drag?

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jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
The point of the 320 badge is that it has a 2.0 you idiots.

Personally i am all about clean and only what is functional and no badging. I even have a whole website that i never post on about it.

jamal fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Sep 17, 2016

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
I would never suggest 14:1 na and itbs.

This is the way to go:



Although that car did blow up a lot of engines and transmissions.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
I've seen offset tie rod ends that move the inner pivot:

Something like this:
http://www.gktech.com/offset-steering-rack-extenders.html

Meant for increasing steering angle for drift cars, but could reduce changes to bump steer and ackerman with a relocated rack.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Dailey makes an integrated pan and pump mount:

http://www.daileyengineering.com/home/honda-2/honda-f-20/

Scavenges the pan without any fittings or lines which is pretty neat.

jamal fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Sep 27, 2016

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
I'm guessing quite a bit but keep in mind it really cuts down on other dry sump components you need with a bare pan and standard pump.

I would ask how the oil feed and adding a cooler works, looks like it would be a pretty short run and delete the stock pumps (some systems use the stock pump and the dry sump pump for scavenging only). And probably much less than toda.

So you would have a line to/from the tank, feed, scavenge from the head, and that's about it. Super clean and simple and won't require as much hose and fittings as other systems, an oil filter block, etc.

jamal fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Sep 27, 2016

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Just make sure to do the math and make a spreadsheet for every part, fitting, length of hose, tanks, catch cans, etc before you make a decision. The cheapest pan and pump might not work out that way.

jamal fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Oct 2, 2016

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Is that oil pump chain guide that sticks out going to be an issue with the new pan?

Did you ever get a price on the dailey pan/pump?

Also buy an engine stand already.

jamal fucked around with this message at 07:50 on Oct 13, 2016

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire

NitroSpazzz posted:


The Dailey pan/pump is $4425 plus shipping and includes billet alloy pan, oil pump with air separator, spacer plate, 2 Belts, pulleys and crank damper pulley ATI. It looks amazing but this is over twice the DMRR and RED pans.

Ha, holy poo poo.

And yeah sorry with the things that fell in the engine and worry about getting metal shavings in the block while cutting the chain I thought you had it sitting on a tire or something.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
The actual factory tool plus a big rear end breaker bar is probably going to be your best bet for that crank pulley.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Since you have the crank pulley off just pull the cover and take off the guides? It's weight savings!

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
They'll have socket caps, possibly even in stainless. Flanged head unlikely, I was just driving around looking for some of those last week.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire

The Door Frame posted:

Good to know that I'm not the only one who can't find flanged metric bolts for whatever loving reason. Why is shipping on 3 bolts $8 for "Expedited" and why does expedited shipping take an estimated 2 and a half weeks?

Mcmaster has a decent selection and they are pretty quick with shipping if you have an account.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
With individual gauges you definitely want something that has warnings you can set. Personally I prefer a display that will flash at you over a half-dozen individual gauges. I think the last I checked the racepak was the cheapest way to get logging, gps, and a g-sensor all together but I need to go through them all again. AEM has a new display but it was a little more expensive than I was hoping.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
I think you can still pull things off odbii, there's just not like a specific can protocol connection for them.

jamal fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Jan 18, 2017

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire

NitroSpazzz posted:

I also scored a used AEM EMS to run instead of the factory ECU. This will feed directly into the dash reducing a lot of wiring headache and clutter.

Series 2 or infinity?

Either way, that opens up some convenient compatibility with other aem stuff. The AQ-1 datalogger for example is fairly cheap and will take info straight from the ecu. The problem with it is that it only has 8 analog channels (4x 0-5v, 4x0-16v), but stuff on aemnet via the ems or x-series gauges doesn't use any of the regular channels. It does have an accelerometer and gps input.

If you have a logging dash that's probably not very relevant though. I just happened to be going through some aem stuff today.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Guess you better call rywire.

That is really annoying though.

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jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Definitely keep a thermostat. Oil temp and pressure will be way less consistent without it.

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