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No, no, no, I have the 4cyl 4spd automatic version of this. Get rid of this car before it eats your wallet alive. E: I also reccomend the largest rubber mallet you can get, you're gonna need it for the wheels.
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Sep 21, 2016 16:34
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 12:21 |
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Well, first of all, nobody's ever used anti-sieze on any part of that car. Pretend all fasteners are actually made from vinyl and glued in place. You're also going to become intimate with the plastic skid plates. They like wine, long drives down dusty roads, and staying up until 2am. Chocolates don't hurt either. When you go to do a brake job on it you'll likely find that you'll have to literally crack the rotors to get them off. I just did this for my rear brakes, including replacing slider bolts on one of the rear calipers that was actually siezed closed for over a year. Don't even bother attempting to salvage or re-use the machine screws that hold the rotors to the hubs. Just drill them out if they're there, and let the wheels hold the rotors on like every other car that isn't an Audi. The rear wheel wells rot, it starts slow, but eventually you're going to have some pretty sweet new vents in front of your rear wheels. Replacing anything other than DRLs requires disassembling half the front-end. I've tried four different methods to attempt to get my headlamp lenses to clear up, nothing works.  Sexy clearcoat-free spoiler and wheel well rot. Mine has cancer where the spoiler mounts to the trunk too.  Plastic trim from your rocker panels hanging off yet like mine? E: You've got mags too. Steelies come off the hubs easy, but I was dead serious about the big mallet being a key tool to mag wheel removal on this car. EE: Car also eats blower motors and the resistor pack that controls it. You've got the v6, but on the 4cyl, the alternator likes getting rebuilt every 5-6 years as well. Oh, and there's the airbag recall, Mazda still hasn't figured out a fix. You're going to eat tires on the front too. They wear unevenly but overinflating by a few psi will help mitigate this. Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Sep 22, 2016 |
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Sep 22, 2016 00:42
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How are the displays on your dash holding up to the years? I have to press on the screen just to see the time and radio station I'm on and my gear counter says I have 1, 2, 3, and -| gears. The odo is the only one that actually remains completely functional. Let me know if you ever hear a sloshing sound after a hard rain, I still can't figure out where the hell it comes from.
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Sep 22, 2016 03:19
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angryhampster posted:I think by and large your car has been beaten and abused. My 6 had a couple faults, but yours sounds like a festering pile of poo. My mileage isn't that far off from the OP (212,000km or 131,000mi) and I know my car's complete history, it's just always been like this. Engine rebuilt at 130,000km, ran without oil and the ECU didn't notice anything was wrong until it bent a rod. Neither did the PO. Throttle body cleaned twice since the rebuild to deal with low-idle surging. Works for about two years then the surging returns. No vacuum leak has ever been found. Exhaust seal that never lasts more than a few months between the cat and the pipe leading to the manifold. I don't even bother replacing it anymore. CEL that pops up every couple months: "temperature sensor detecting that the coolant temperature is too low for stable operation of the engine." I will agree with you though, great car in the snow. Hell, she even gets a little off-roading in sometimes; once took a trip to Ardbeg with a canoe strapped on the roof. Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 08:10 on Sep 22, 2016 |
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Sep 22, 2016 08:04
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CharlesM posted:UMMMMMMMMMMMMMM There is a reason I paid exactly $1 for this car.
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Sep 22, 2016 08:58
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Terrible Robot posted:No man all Mazda6s are terrible no good pieces of poo poo, I know this because the one I bought that had been run literally until it died by the PO was a giant turd moneypit and that means literally all of them are forever. I was in the car when it developed the knock. The root cause of engine failure was the bolt holding the oil pump gear on loosening just enough for the pump to stop pumping oil combined with a free Jiffy Lube Oil Leak (tm). The previous owners never missed an oil change and the transmission got a going over when the engine was rebuilt, ps it doesn't like to shift into 4th gear on really cold days. Before the engine rebuild the alternator had been serviced twice, the blower motor replaced, and the blower motor resistor replaced. I have done all of these things since the rebuild and will probably have to replace the blower motor again soon. 18L/100km lifetime average fuel economy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6WFvrpKDpMI Cracking the rotors on an '05 to get them off. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyeC_Vbuk_k Drilling out the screws that hold the rotors on. Google results for "2005 mazda 6 front tire wear" https://www.google.ca/webhp?ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b&gfe_rd=cr&ei=lD7kV4y9MerE8gfdn5bwBg#safe=off&q=2005+mazda+6+front+tire+wear "2005 mazda 6 stuck wheels" https://www.google.ca/webhp?ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b&gfe_rd=cr&ei=lD7kV4y9MerE8gfdn5bwBg#safe=off&q=2005+mazda+6+stuck+wheels
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Sep 22, 2016 21:36
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WescottF1 posted:So far we're pretty impressed with the 2016. I was afraid going from the V6 to the I4 it would be a slug, but it's quicker than I anticipated. Plus it gets 27MPG in the city. I will admit, as much as my ownership of one of these has been a painful experience, I've never had a problem with the get up and go my 4cyl has. I don't normally speed but I've had it up to 180km/h before and it took no time to get there. Despite the early failure and dirty throttle body I've found the engine to be the only actually reliable part of the whole works.
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Sep 22, 2016 21:59
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 12:21 |
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The radio pixels aren't actually dead, you can fix it with a soldering iron, but it involves taking apart the dash. I've run the tank low enough for the light to come on a few times and never had a low fuel surging issue. I have a low idle surging issue that pops up every couple of years and cleaning the throttle body corrects it. As for your clutch, go test drive a sports car with a standard. If it feels like that, you just have a heavy clutch and maybe a lighter one exists.
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Sep 24, 2016 01:55
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