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In for this build. Nice truck, OP!
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Jan 29, 2017 18:17
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| # ? May 22, 2024 14:10 |
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spread me on a muffin cause im jelly
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Jan 31, 2017 04:34
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Found a trans!   Close ratio NV3500 from a 96 S-10. 224,000 kms, 101 day warranty. I'll redo the internal slave cylinder, so I know it's good. There's nobody local that does rebuilds, but they'll happily take this one as a core and charge me $1500-$2000k for a reman...ouch. Should bolt right up to the 350 SBC, but I'll probably need a crossmember - the current SM420 doesn't have one, but the 3500 is longer and I don't want that much weight held on just by mounting bolts. I'll also have to convert from mechanical clutch to a hydraulic setup (again I think there's a bracket available) but as for plumbing and changing the linkage from the pedal to the master cylinder, I'll have to sort something out. There are a few solutions kicking around the other truck forums.
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Feb 15, 2017 23:31
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If you have a shop press, snap ring pliers (optional?), and patience, rebuilding a manual is well within the shadetree's abilities. Don't skimp on assembly lube. Most of the time the gears are fine except for a chewed-up reverse (at least this seems to be the case with older Toyota manuals), and you usually only need to do synchros, bearings, and seals. I can't see a NV3500 being all that difficult if you get a rebuild kit and follow a guide. Check the forks for wear and replace as necessary. E: Looks like master rebuild kits are around $400 and here is a youtube video of one out of a 99 S10 getting rebuilt: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WK2ds6au7nc Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Feb 16, 2017 |
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Feb 16, 2017 02:07
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Agreed. I did the AX15 I put in my red XJ in a half a day at work. The select-fit ground to thickness snaprings are the only real lovely part, if you snap those taking them off you are SOL unless you can order replacements, and you may have to change them if you replace hard parts and the new ones require a slightly different thickness. That being said, that's AX15 specific info and I've not done an NV3500 - yet. Looks like it came with a slip yoke, which is nice.
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Feb 16, 2017 02:16
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Yeah, I had read that the NV3500 needed special tools to split the cases....I don't have a shop press, so I may still be limited in my options. The trans is still in transit, should have it by the 23rd, and I'll make sure it's in decent shape/clean it off etc before I look at putting it in. Hopefully I can find a matching slipyoke to have a trans to transfer case driveshaft made up...and then there are driveshaft angles to consider.
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Feb 16, 2017 07:23
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You really only need the press if you are replacing gears. Otherwise it appears all you need is a drift pin and a hammer based upon the NV3500 rebuild videos I've seen. There's a series of four "how-tos" by a guy who rebuilt one in his bedroom with hand tools and no experience. The only trouble he had with splitting the case involved forgetting about the snap rings. A standing jig you can make out of a sheet of plywood and a couple 2x2s seems to help with disassembly/reassembly, and is mostly just to help hold the reverse idler in place once it's been unbolted, but it is by no means required. Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Feb 16, 2017 |
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Feb 16, 2017 17:48
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Alright, it's been a while since the last update, mainly because my garage is insulated but not heated, and it has been cold as all hell and not at all comfortable to work on stuff. The trans arrived:    Spent some time the other day cleaning some of the gunk off, removing the old throwout bearing, and checking the internals:  This trans has only one shift rail, which according to the reading I've been doing means it's not a Getrag 290, but an NV3500 - Differences explained Here and Here. Now that the trans is here, I think the easiest course of action would be to pull the current trans and bellhousing, and compare apples to apples, so I know what clutch parts (if any) I have to keep or swap. Overall shot of current setup:  Driveshaft will unbolt easy enough:  The factory trans crossmember is in place, which I think I'll have to remove, at least until I test fit the new trans in place to figure out its clearances:  The trans mount is the big square rubber bit in the center of the photo. A big bolt goes through the crossmember, the rubber pad, and into a 'tab' on the transmission. The trans crossmember is held in place by 4 bolts like you can see in the right lower part of the photo.  I think my disassembly is going to consist of: 1) undoing the driveshaft. 2a) either unbolt the trans from the crossmember, unbolt it from the bellhousing, and remove, (thereby avoiding dicking with those brakelines while trying to maneuver an emancipated 130lb mass of cast iron) or: 2b) unbolt the crossmember, and unbolt the trans from the bellhousing, and remove both at once (while trying not to break said brake lines). 3) use the extra space available to now unbolt the bellhousing from the rear of the engine, and remove it. I don't know how installing the new 1-piece trans will go, if I can't get at all the bolts that will hold it to the back of the engine. If I have to pull the engine, that would really suck. I've been soaking the hell out of everything with PB blaster, cuz that's going to have to be done regardless. Other stuff to be done: - Order a bracket to hold both the brake master cylinder, and a clutch master cylinder (a kit is available from a guy on the 67-72 chevy trucks forums, and he'll include a master cylinder to match my slave cylinder, as well as a linkage to convert my current clutch pedal to actuate the m/c). - have new hydraulic lines made up, because the truck currently has a mechanical (!) clutch. I'm in a pretty agricultural area, and I think having made-to-order hydraulic lines made up won't be too much of a challenge. - order and install a new hydraulic throwout bearing. - Make sure my current flywheel is the appropriate size/toothcount - make sure my current starter will fit the new bellhousing. If not, I might go with a compact starter, which could mean figuring out some kind of mounting bracket (I have zero access to equipment to fab up my own, and would likely have to make a cardboard template of what I want, then take it to a fab place. I have a few small things building up that ideally, I'd have them take care of all at once - such as making a new shifter rod, as the one on the S-10 trans is ridiculously stubby, and my old one is like 30" long  .- have my driveshaft shortened to accommodate the new trans, and have them put in the slipyoke end to fit the S-10 transmission, as unfortunately it doesn't seem to come apart (or at least, as easily as the current setup). Any thoughts on anything I might be missing, or on an easier way of doing things?
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Mar 21, 2017 04:23
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Balls. The two lower trans-to-bellhousing bolts are only accessible from inside the bellhousing, meaning this isn't as modular as I thought, and I'm going to have to drop the bellhousing and trans as a unit. poo poo.
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Mar 21, 2017 22:49
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Alright, it's been a few months of being busy at work and being stuck with a lot of head scratching in regards to:
Bear with me, this is going to be a text heavy setup, with pictures added when satellite internet is cooperative. ----------------------------------------------------------- Trans Stuff: Ok, after some googling it turned out that the other two bolts were inside the bellhousing, so you had to drop the clutch inspection cover and could get at them that way. After much swearing and prying, the bellhousing came out. The crossmember for sure has to be cut out. What I thought was a bolt in section was just bolts between the full crossmember and the lower braces. The ends of the crossmember are riveted into the frame, and there's no real way to grind them off and remove the crossmember (read: The proper way) without taking off the cab, which isn't happening yet. I was worried about the effect this would have, especially on a 4x4 truck, because it would mean the next significant crossbrace along the frame would be the transfer case crossmember. It seems though that only the manual 4x4s had the front transmission crossmember, all the auto ones didn't and they did just fine. The trans I'm putting in requires a rear crossmember, and after finding a few online I'm going to go with one by ifabspeed.com. It's made for the bagged and frame notching crowd, but I like the design and modularity of it - the exhaust arches will let me keep the exhaust up out of the way, and it looks like once the end pieces are bolted in you can drop the middle section with it attached to the trans, for service. Clutch Stuff: Now, the truck had a mechanical clutch linkage, but the modern trans has a hydraulic setup with an internal slave. There's a guy on the 60-66 Chevy truck forums who makes an adapter kit, with a slick bracket that serves as a mounting point for the brake booster, as well as a template for where to drill a hole on the firewall for the clutch master. The kit also includes spacers and hardware to connect the existing clutch pedal to the master, keeping everything aligned through the pedal sweep, without bottoming out the master. Included is a wildwood master cylinder. The problem, though, is you're still putting in a hydraulic setup in a vehicle that never had it. You can get pre-bent clutch hard lines for the S-10, but the problem is they're set up for the S-10. I found guys who had used fittings to go from flared lines to AN -3 hydraulic lines. Turns out there's also a spring pin holding the problematic 'quick connect ' fitting into the slave cylinder. Again, I found a replacement fitting ($40 for two!). That will swap in place and again take the AN-3 fitting. Found a 4' braided stainless line on Amazon, so now I'll be able to plumb the clutch when the time comes. Redoing the brakes: I don't know if this is how it came from the factory or not, but the brake lines for the front passenger side brake, and the supply line for the rear brakes runs across the crossmember that's getting cut out. Problem. Easiest fix is going to be to re-route the crossover back to the transfer case crossmember, because that's not going anywhere. However, that's about 2-3' farther back than it was before. Will breaking pressure/response be effected because of the extra length in the system? This also seems like a good time to swap in the front axle I got from an 86 K5 Blazer, which will give me discs up front and open knuckles. This is where the bulk of the head scratching has happened, and where I'm calling on AI for problem solving. The Blazer had a hydroboost setup, and I have the master cylinder but not the booster. I'd like to reuse this master if possible, simply because I already have it and I know it's designed for the Blazer. I'm going to go with a dual diaphragm booster because spacing between the booster and the clutch master on the bracket kit is pretty tight, probably one from Tuff Stuff performance, because it'll fit the spacing on the firewall bracket. My questions are as follows: While tracing the brake lines, I found the proportioning valve/distribution block tucked into the frame (not hanging off the booster/ master cylinder as they seem to now). Because of the Frankenstein nature of the parts/vehicles, I'd like to run an adjustable prop valve to setup my own front/rear bias. Will I still need the distribution block, or is that job now handled by the prop valve? The stock Blazer brake lines are 3/16" up front. The rear line is 1/4" until it gets to the rear "T" fitting, before 3/16" lines run to each rear drum setup. All the adjustable valves I seem to be finding are 3/16" front and rear. Should I find one that is 3/16" front, 1/4" rear, do I put some kind of reducer fitting in the rear line to narrow it to 1/4" line, or can I just run 3/16" all around? Again, my apologies for the text heavy update.
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Jun 9, 2017 07:43
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Captain McAllister posted:
Extra line length won't be a problem. That's all going to be filled by hydraulic fluid which doesn't really compress so if you think about it it's not going to have much effect on braking. For the dist. block it depends on the location and what's it's splitting, etc. I'd assume with the adjustable prop valve the line diameter F/R won't matter much since if it causes the rears to lock a little more you could adjust the bias more frontward. If anything I think it would make the rear less prone to lock up because of the added volume and reduced pressure in the lines. Some google picture I found that might help? 
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Jun 9, 2017 14:21
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Well, I got a small pay bump at work, so naturally that equates to new truck parts! I ordered this crossmember , because even though it's for the lowered crowd, it'll let me tuck the exhaust up under the truck more, plus I like the modularity of the design. It's currently making its way to me from Texas. That also got me in gear to order the other stuff I'll need. My brain has almost been running out my ears the last two days, in regards to getting the brake stuff sorted out. The brake booster/clutch master mount I got kinda limits my options, because I need a booster that:
I found that most of these criteria were met by aftermarket boosters. I decided to follow the KISS rule (Keep It Simple, Stupid!). The front axle will be from an 86 K5 Blazer. I was going to try to reuse the master cylinder I have from it, and wanted to have the prop valve hanging off the master instead of being hidden in the frame rail. I also wanted to make sure that the prop valve would have the same size connections as stock to the brake hard lines to the wheels. Long story short, I ordered a pre-made combo from Right Stuff Detailing. It has an 8" double diaphragm booster, which I wanted to go to to avoid clearance issues with the now-nearby clutch master. It has a master cylinder with the same bore as the Blazer master, and a bracket and pre-made lines for the (included) disc/drum prop valve. I also ordered the energy suspension bushing for the trans/crossmember. Last but not least, I splurged on a mini starter, because 1) I've already had to replace the starter due to heat soak issues, and 2) the S10 trans is set up for a block mounted starter, whereas the current starter is a bellhousing mount. When I replaced the last starter, I found that the nose cones were ever so slightly different (to the point where the new starter wouldn't seat in the bellhousing). I ended up swapping the nose cones, but gently caress having to do that every time. Good thing I plan on keeping this truck a long while, because figuring out how to make all this stuff work together is easily 80% of the work! Captain McAllister fucked around with this message at 10:27 on Jun 22, 2017 |
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Jun 22, 2017 10:20
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Parts are showing up. With all the time I'm spending under the truck, I've noticed that there seem to be oil leaks from the valve cover gaskets, and oil pan. There are 2 different oil pan gaskets for SBC 350s, based on the shape of the pan. One is 4 pieces, the other is one piece. I dunno if some PO put the wrong gasket in, or if the pan is warped, but they slathered the poo poo out of it with RTV, which is now leaking. I ordered a new oil pan and one piece fel-pro gasket, as well as valve cover gaskets. Hopefully this helps solve the oil loss problem I had on the 2000km road trip last summer. My satellite internet has poo poo the bed and uploading photos from my phone is a royal pain in the rear end so it may be a little bit before I can upload photos of my progress. I also decided that since I'm redoing the brakes up front, I should probably do the rears. Wheel cylinders, pads, and hardware kit(s) are also incoming. While I'm here, does anyone happen to know the part # for a u-bolt set for the front axle of an 86 K5 Blazer? Local parts guy couldn't find a listing. I've heard that reusing them is a bad idea.
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Jul 11, 2017 08:58
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Captain McAllister posted:There are 2 different oil pan gaskets for SBC 350s, based on the shape of the pan. One is 4 pieces, the other is one piece. There's actually more than that, depending on whether it has a short or tall bit at the bottom of the timing cover. Make sure you get the right one. If you get the thick one where you need a thin, it won't sit flat against the rest of the gasket. Thin where you need thick, and it won't seal pretty much at all at the timing cover/oil pan interface. All depends on which oil pan and timing cover you have. You probably know this, just making sure! Often the cork kind with the rubber end-pieces will come with both, so you can fit whichever you need, but obviously the 1-piece ones can't do that. Plus there's the 1-piece rear main seal ones, but you'd know if you had one of those motors.
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Jul 11, 2017 10:09
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Captain McAllister posted:While I'm here, does anyone happen to know the part # for a u-bolt set for the front axle of an 86 K5 Blazer? Local parts guy couldn't find a listing. I've heard that reusing them is a bad idea. Make sure to check if all 4 are the same, some older trucks have 2 or even 3 different ubolt sizes for a single axle, for example YJs have at least 2 based on where the ubolt goes, some F350s have 2 or 3, and Dodge OBS W350s only use 3 ubolts (the inboard side of the passenger leaf plate bolts to the diff housing with two studs instead of a ubolt.) For measurements they will want round top or square, rod diameter, axle tube diameter, height from inside of U to ends of bolt, and height from inside of U to start of threads. I think that's it but it's been a few years since I did this. kastein fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Jul 12, 2017 |
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Jul 12, 2017 21:07
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Yeah, I had to get custom ones made for my truck. 2.25" wide leaves aren't common.
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Jul 13, 2017 03:40
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^^ funny you guys mention that. The local NAPA sent me to the heavy truck place yesterday because they can make up U bolts. I didn't even know that was an option. I think that's the route I'm going to go, because I don't think the front axle is stock. It'll be easy enough to get those measurements in place, and I'll take a lot of photos beforehand. Speaking of, internets are cooperating for the time being so hopefully I can upload some photos of... stuff.
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Jul 13, 2017 07:23
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