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Fuel pump's on. No hoses run, got sorta squeamish about self-tapping screws before I got to set into it. It's not like my chassis is cherry. Just pre-completion nerves, I guess. Participated in some Hackerspace cleanup and networking improvement yesterday, so wrenching time was minimized, but got a nice profile shot after I buttoned it back up for the day. Car is perfect, and needs nothing: Waffle House fucked around with this message at 15:43 on May 30, 2017 |
# ? May 30, 2017 15:37 |
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# ? May 2, 2024 19:15 |
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Yup, love that. Would drive forever in an unbuttoned shirt, hairy chest on display
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# ? May 30, 2017 16:31 |
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Waffle House posted:Fuel pump's on. No hoses run, got sorta squeamish about self-tapping screws before I got to set into it. It's not like my chassis is cherry. Just pre-completion nerves, I guess. This is it. The perfect car.
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# ? May 30, 2017 16:53 |
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Waffle House posted:Fuel pump's on. No hoses run, got sorta squeamish about self-tapping screws before I got to set into it. It's not like my chassis is cherry. Just pre-completion nerves, I guess. I'm going to the car this weekend to grind, weld, cut, blaaaah.
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# ? May 30, 2017 17:30 |
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God that car looks awesome as it is. I know from experience that the 1jz is no slouch even when i swapped one in my old pig whore 87 supra. Please be careful, and buy an extra ecm or two. Or standalone tuning maybe?
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# ? May 31, 2017 02:21 |
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interwhat posted:God that car looks awesome as it is. I know from experience that the 1jz is no slouch even when i swapped one in my old pig whore 87 supra. Please be careful, and buy an extra ecm or two. Or standalone tuning maybe? I'll definitely be trying to find another Mk3 ECU, even though I have a local friend who's keen with a soldering iron and well, well-versed with this vintage of Toyota and their motors. It's just common 1J sense. Eventually the plan is yes, to go Standalone; as this motor is pre-OBD, there's zero data-logging ability as it stands.
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# ? May 31, 2017 15:29 |
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Waffle House posted:Car is perfect, and needs nothing: Maybe some wipers
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# ? May 31, 2017 21:22 |
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Waffle House posted:I'll definitely be trying to find another Mk3 ECU, even though I have a local friend who's keen with a soldering iron and well, well-versed with this vintage of Toyota and their motors. It's just common 1J sense. My main problem was that, i assume, with a larger than factory(jdm soarer 1jz) intercooler setup, 3 inch downpipe, etc. it always read rich as hell on my wideband at idle and cruise speed, and slightly lean WOT. That, coupled with boost/speed-cut, i was at a wall with being young and at the end of my budget, with no cash left from doing the swap tuning wise. Edit: i very well may have had other issues i didnt at the time have the ability to diagnose, poo poo i even drove on 4 cylinders for a few weeks to get to work because a cap in the ecm blew out, until i finally nailed down the issue. Going back, knowing a fair bit more about engine management(but from looking at megasquirt products, not nearly enough, god drat), i would invest in a megasquirt or something and do tuning yourself, because gently caress paying someone a grand to tune your car, once. My coworker at the Audi dealer i work at, uses software that can tune Motronic ecms, and he will spend a few times a week fine tuning his 2.7 s4 avant, and is even running e85. Do a couple pulled on the way to work, tweak it, test on the way home. Having that kind of freedom to tune it just right just seems like common sense. Until my kid gets older and I can have money pits again, ill just live that life vicariously through you. interwhat fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Jun 1, 2017 |
# ? Jun 1, 2017 01:44 |
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Waffle House posted:Fuel pump's on. No hoses run, got sorta squeamish about self-tapping screws before I got to set into it. It's not like my chassis is cherry. Rivnuts?
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# ? Jun 1, 2017 19:27 |
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interwhat posted:My main problem was that, i assume, with a larger than factory(jdm soarer 1jz) intercooler setup, 3 inch downpipe, etc. it always read rich as hell on my wideband at idle and cruise speed, and slightly lean WOT. That, coupled with boost/speed-cut, i was at a wall with being young and at the end of my budget, with no cash left from doing the swap tuning wise. EMS was going to come after the rollcage, which truly is the next step; I love this thing, but don't want to die in it, and part of the reason I haven't done a ton to the interior yet. I'm going to need to do a lot of research; my 'known' options for EMS on the 1JZ are MegaSquirt (because it does everything), various AEM products, and if I somehow win the lottery, a MOTEC setup. EMS and tuning are not within my scope of experience so far, but obviously we're going to change that. IOwnCalculus posted:Rivnuts? hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. That does look a bit cleaner than screw shanks poking up through my floorboads.
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# ? Jun 1, 2017 23:43 |
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I really love the wheel choice also!
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# ? Jun 5, 2017 14:01 |
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Liked and subscribed
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# ? Jun 20, 2017 16:48 |
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Waffle House posted:hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. That does look a bit cleaner than screw shanks poking up through my floorboads. Very much so. I got a hoss of a rivnut tool, though still a relatively inexpensive one, to put the M6 threaded inserts on my Cherokee for the roof rack, but for the smaller sizes (M3, M4) you should be able to get away with the pop-rivet style gun. I got an Astro 1442, at $70: https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-1442-Setting/dp/B003TODXQW It does M5-M8, and 10-24 - 5/16"-18. Other mandrels are available. If you just want metric, the Astro 1427 is only $40, and does M5-M12: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KLVJAA?psc=1 I've got American junk, too, so I paid more to be able to fart with those as needed. No more Tek screws for me! There are some that use a drill to drive a threaded collet. Not sure how well they work, but they're around $30. and the one-hand rivet-gun style ones are all over the price range, depending on brand, metric/SAE, and what sizes they can do. Bettyspagh3tt1 posted:Liked and subscribed
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# ? Jul 7, 2017 19:15 |
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Alright, so. Few things sorted out. I tried working on it tonight to overcome Project Inertia, but the 1.5 ton jack's apparently blown, I'll have to get a new one 1) I figured out why I can't connect my e-brake; it's because I was missing the cable stays that allow the cable proper to move in and out of its sleeve. I bought my calipers from ye olde Reiley's unloaded, so there were no pads, slides, brackets, or boots. This was resolved by junking a pair of the cable stays from an S14 in a yard nearby. 2) New rear brake hoses have been acquired. I totally hosed up the routing on the first go-round, and realized they've been rubbing on the cv and its hardware; corded almost through when I looked at them. GOOD THING I DID NOT DRIVE ON THIS 3) Diff seals great. Finally. gently caress. Still to do: - Polish up some ground spots in the engine bay - Make sure the wiring harness is in the right place - Bleed brakes - Run fuel hoses. - Chase electrical gremlins in body harness, if any, after re-soldering the defroster pigtail.
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# ? Jul 25, 2017 07:16 |
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god drat it feels good to be working on this thing again. I would like to sincerely thank Korwen for loaning me his harbor freight jack tonight since mine gave out The thicker, proper late-model ST rear sway bar is on, and PRAISE THE OMNISSIAH clears my driveshaft. A hiccup with a much cheaper fix than anything else I've hosed with so far: I have to clock these calipers/brackets to the back side of the axle so the brake cables meet, and get my grubby mitts on some clevis pins: Thick-rear end sway bar. Somehow clears the CV boots: To do: BRAKE HOSES CLEVIS PINS SOLDERING FLUIDS KEY TURNING SCARING THE NEIGHBORS ANYTHING ELSE UNFORSEEN SO FAR
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# ? Jul 27, 2017 06:15 |
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Does a burnout fall under scaring the neighbors?
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# ? Jul 27, 2017 11:29 |
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When moving the calipers, make sure that the bleeder screws are still "up". that should mean swapping the calipers side to side, if I am understanding what you are meaning to do.
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# ? Jul 27, 2017 16:34 |
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Darchangel posted:When moving the calipers, make sure that the bleeder screws are still "up". that should mean swapping the calipers side to side, if I am understanding what you are meaning to do. I think the only reason I mounted them this way in the first place was because of these incredibly short hoses, which made this configuration 'look right'; now that I have the parking brake cable stays installed, it's obvious they need to be flipped. I had some nice stainless steel lines braided lines that came with the disc conversion kit, but the private-label manufacturer who did them for the kit-basher was kind enough to send me one of the two with an improper flare type fitting at the wheel side instead of a right and good banjo bolt. With all the tractors around central Texas, it should be easy enough for me to find a hydraulic shop that can crimp up some hoses; while I'm calling around today to see what costs are like, I'll see if I need to bring my own metric fittings or if they keep a supply on-hand. Cop Porn Popper posted:Does a burnout fall under scaring the neighbors? I feel this and donuts could fall under the umbrella, yeah. I may elect to do the loud stuff in a carefully-selected parking lot instead, because the courtesy of my neighbors has thus far been legendary; I had no less than two random dudes come out of their apartments far after sunset, a sheriff and an ironworker, to shoot the poo poo with me and lend a hand just because I was working on it in the lot. We are now slated for beers.
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# ? Jul 27, 2017 16:54 |
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Very cool car, looking forward to more updates. Not something I often see up in my neck of the woods (Maine), as the official state color is rust.
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# ? Sep 25, 2017 16:59 |
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poo poo, I forgot this was a thread! A lot has happened; the fuel system is now manifold, with the A1000 mounted to the firewall. Much has been cleaned and tidied up, and importantly, I am now officially the second legal owner of this chassis ever, with the title blue, clear, and free in my name after 30 years of bureaucratic limbo. We worked late into the night Monday to screw in the hose clamps for the under-chassis fuel lines along the inside of the transmission tunnel. I now have parallel AN -6 hoses for feed and return on the driver's side of the trans tunnel, well out of the way of the driveshaft and gearbox, and tuned for fluid physics. The tires are now correctly oriented. My accomplices tidied up a few things I forgot, including tightening the end links, and ziptied the wires. I cannot believe how much faster things go when you have two extra capable people helping. Also I love my girlfriend, she's amazing. The Police apparently thought we were stealing the vehicle from my apartment's parking lot because we were working on it so late, and dispatched a helicopter to tight-circle us at 1 AM. I think after the first pass or two they realized Grand Theft Auto charges weren't going to materialize, but loitered for about 30 minutes until an actual patrol car came by to confirm on the ground, and I like to think they were speculating on it while we were wrenching. What remains for ignition: 1) Battery box needs bolted in. I'm going to mount it behind the seats on the parcel shelf between the foot lockers, dead center, so I can easily reach a breaker if I need to. 2) Transmission, diff lubes, coolant. 3) I discovered the barb on the MAP sensor has been broken all along, so I can't actually start this vehicle until that gets replaced. The only cure for this ailment is a fresh Toyota P/N 89421-12111, which looks like it'll run me about USD $100. There's a Alibaba Special version of the sensor, which may very well work just fine, but I'm not going to risk a generic at this time. 4) Rack alignment. Car's front wheels are a few degrees duck-footed. After the car fires up... 5) Insurance! I am liking Esurance, but they don't cover vehicles older than 1981, and instead refer you to Hagerty. I'm going with GEICO until I can get this thing its own garaged spot, even though they can't offer me collision on it. 6) Headlights and turn signals. Not integral to the vehicle's operation, but required to not be an rear end in a top hat. 7) I need to move the fuel pump a little more inboard. It's not perilous per se, but I'd really like it to be more centered, or at least gravel-guarded with an extra piece of shielding. 8) Weatherproofing. The chassis has no rubber bungs to keep the rain out. in the firewall or on the floor. I may get some cheap weather mats to give the car a semblance of interior comfort while I'm finding the nicest ways to route the wires. 9) Hood pins. I had to grind off the stock hood catch for the 1J to fit. I'd like to use Aerocatch products for this. 10) Cage cage cage cage cage cage cage cage cage cage cage cage cage. Frame rail and rust repair as necessary. Really don't wanna die in this thing, but I need it to move under its own power so it doesn't cost me $120 to tow it to anywhere it needs work in the future. Waffle House fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Nov 9, 2017 |
# ? Nov 9, 2017 18:38 |
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Waffle House posted:The Police apparently thought we were stealing the vehicle from my apartment's parking lot because we were working on it so late, and dispatched a helicopter to tight-circle us at 1 AM. I think after the first pass or two they realized Grand Theft Auto charges weren't going to materialize, but loitered for about 30 minutes until an actual patrol car came by to confirm on the ground, and I like to think they were speculating on it while we were wrenching. I'm not sure there's a cooler "working on my car" story than that.
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# ? Nov 9, 2017 18:58 |
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:I'm not sure there's a cooler "working on my car" story than that. At first I thought they were out just in the area for a fleeing suspect or something, but they never lit up a spotlight, and the circle they flew was tight on us for their loiter period. I feel I missed an opportunity for a posterboard imploring them to, "SEND SNACKS AND RACE GAS"
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# ? Nov 9, 2017 19:13 |
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loving neat, it cranks. I solved the problem of distributing main battery (+) feed via muthafuckin car audio components and the power of THE CONTAINER STORE: (extremely professional) The four red-on-white wires are the Datsun's main chassis power wires. They used to go to fusible links; now I just use mini-ANLs. These custom audio junction blocks are great; accept 1/0 feed and distribute out to 4x outputs, up to 4-gauge size. I think people use these to drive amplifiers...? Hell, works for me. The sandwich box works remarkably well for keeping rain off the blocks. Yes, that is totally a piece of scrap wood mounting the distro blocks. The wiring for the Taurus fan used to run all the way to the back where the battery is; I shortened it now that I have a nice distribution block up front. That's how much of a run I saved tying it to the (+) block instead. Spent some time tidying up the headlight harness, too: Current moods: - wow it loving cranks - it's 27 degrees outside - A Bosch 044 is VERY loud - shall we see what happens when we put gasoline in it? I think we should its cold, my hands are cold from crimping, but at least these wires are hot Waffle House fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Jan 2, 2018 |
# ? Jan 2, 2018 02:40 |
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Question for you - what are you running to the starter? Are you going straight from the battery to the box and then to the starter from there or are you splitting that fat cable somewhere and going to the box and starter each with its own fat one?
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# ? Jan 2, 2018 02:55 |
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Question for you - what are you running to the starter? Are you going straight from the battery to the box and then to the starter from there or are you splitting that fat cable somewhere and going to the box and starter each with its own fat one? Battery => Box => Starter right now. Is off-the-starter-first better for current delivery? Waffle House fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Jan 2, 2018 |
# ? Jan 2, 2018 03:00 |
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Waffle House posted:Battery => Box => Starter right now. Is off-the-starter-first better for current delivery? poo poo, beats me. I'll be in the situation to figure out my own power delivery before too long so I just wanted to see what you'd gone with. I got a book on wrangling the magic pixies that live in cars but I've yet to get through it.
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# ? Jan 2, 2018 03:40 |
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:poo poo, beats me. I'll be in the situation to figure out my own power delivery before too long so I just wanted to see what you'd gone with. I got a book on wrangling the magic pixies that live in cars but I've yet to get through it. You'd be surprised how simple it is; you just basically feed everything (+) power, and make sure the other end of the accessory, whatever it is being fed, is grounded. This diagram sucks, but my battery positive "rail" looks like: code:
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# ? Jan 2, 2018 04:09 |
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Yeah, I've been reading up on stuff and looking up power/relay block builds recently. I've got the general gist of things down, I think. Big power to block, power to feed pins on all relays, ground pins all go to common ground, switches feed the trigger pins, output pins feed devices. The whole feeding the block and the starter thing is what's been hanging me up.
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# ? Jan 2, 2018 04:44 |
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I'm sure there's probably specialty automotive stuff for everything I've done so far, but here's what I used: These (Crutchfield link) distribution blocks have 2x 4-gauge or 1/0 inputs that are daisy chainable. Up 4x, mini-ANL fused, 4-gauge outputs. Stinger has a version that uses 'blade' style maxi-fuses instead of mANLs like mine. Here's (Crutchfield link) the same thing, just one lane; either 1x 1/0 or 4ga on either side, just like the input lugs on the above. I used this to step down from incoming 1/0 feed to a more-malleable 4-gauge for pathing inside the junction box. The one-laner is in the middle here: I have a different enclosure coming on a slow boat, but also need to work in my 300A killswitch at some point. edit: By using the battery => starter => junction box path you mentioned, I was able to make this ugly donut of cable and starter relay redundant: tabby for scale: The big ground is on the other side of the motor now, running back alongside the feed. Both tuck under the rain sill nicely. May trim the ground further to eliminate that loop at the end: VVVV The way I understand it: A relay is just a switch that's flipped by a signal instead of your finger. Waffle House fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Jan 2, 2018 |
# ? Jan 2, 2018 04:58 |
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My biggest difficulty understanding how car electrics worked was not understanding what a relay was. I only found out what a relay was because I had a broken one and got bored and then pulled it apart. as soon as I saw the guts of the relay *everything* about car electrics made sense.
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# ? Jan 2, 2018 05:41 |
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Car audio stuff is the bomb. I use car audio grade battery terminals, with ring terminals on the end of the actual cable, on most of my not-new cars. I can't stand lead terminals any more, especially the aftermarket clamp type. The car audio market also has fairly high-current breakers that you can use as a main instead of a fuse, which is nice. You can also get cable terminals with built-in fuse holders, as I recall. Laserface posted:My biggest difficulty understanding how car electrics worked was not understanding what a relay was. Relays are great. Controlling a big, hairy current with a little signal is remarkably useful. It annoys me now when a car maker cheaps out and runs full motor current through power window switches rather than using relays. It burns out the bespoke $not cheap switches rather than a cheap, ubiquitous relay. I've actually installed relays on the power windows of several cars I've owned. About to do it on my Crown Vic, I think, since the driver's front window switch has a habit of burning up on these cars from use.
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# ? Jan 2, 2018 16:22 |
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You're in Ontario, right? Who are you going to use for the cage build? I'm almost finished with a CCUK FIA kit in my friends 350z if you need help/advice.
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# ? Jan 2, 2018 17:33 |
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I’m surprised by how much you can do with stuff intended to drive amplifiers.TWSS posted:You're in Ontario, right? Who are you going to use for the cage build? I'm almost finished with a CCUK FIA kit in my friends 350z if you need help/advice. Nah, Central Texas, but I’ll take any advice I can get. Cage is my bext Big Step.
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# ? Jan 2, 2018 17:48 |
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Main-hoop with harness bars with a rear shock tower tie-in (4-point) if you plan to street drive the car, or full 6-point (or 8-point if you want to tie the front hoop into the front shock towers through the firewall) if you plan to always have a hans and helmet when you're driving.
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# ? Jan 2, 2018 18:02 |
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TWSS posted:Main-hoop with harness bars with a rear shock tower tie-in (4-point) if you plan to street drive the car, or full 6-point (or 8-point if you want to tie the front hoop into the front shock towers through the firewall) if you plan to always have a hans and helmet when you're driving. I was definitely hoping to get the front tied in; seems like a good idea on any old car.
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# ? Jan 2, 2018 18:37 |
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Darchangel posted:Relays are great. Controlling a big, hairy current with a little signal is remarkably useful. Ha, I actually converted my Miata to manual windows because of that. I could have added relays but it was a pain in the dick and manual windows were faster and easier when it started to rain anyways.
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# ? Jan 3, 2018 03:39 |
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Really helps your starter trigger signal (red circles) when you don't accidentally wire it to a bonus circuit (blue circles) because the wires are the same color. whoda fuckin' thunk I'm gonna go get gas and ratchet strap the tank down. Maybe test the brakes.
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# ? Jan 7, 2018 21:32 |
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Waffle House posted:Really helps your starter trigger signal (red circles) when you don't accidentally wire it to a bonus circuit (blue circles) because the wires are the same color. Well, if that isn't the most painful-to-read wiring diagram in the history of cars, I'd like to see what is
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# ? Jan 8, 2018 00:23 |
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FYI: A Bosch 044 will pressurize a fuel system VERY quickly, and you will discover this if your fuel fittings are not tight as can be everywhere.Pomp and Circumcized posted:Well, if that isn't the most painful-to-read wiring diagram in the history of cars, I'd like to see what is I've only ever looked at Toyota factory wiring diagrams, but generally this isn't so bad. It's wayyyyy zoomed in on the body and engine room connectors, here's the whole thing if you care to try: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/F77ZCAR-WIRING1.pdf
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# ? Jan 8, 2018 00:38 |
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# ? May 2, 2024 19:15 |
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I think he means all the damned crossing lines. That’s incredibly bad form in wiring diagrams. At least that one is in color, which helps quite a lot.
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# ? Jan 9, 2018 17:31 |