Kinda like how the only reason everything seems to cause cancer nowadays is that in prior centuries nobody lived long enough to get cancer?
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# ? Dec 7, 2016 18:32 |
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# ? May 22, 2024 05:35 |
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NitroSpazzz posted:I'd put cage/seats/harness higher on the priority list IMHO. I'm much more comfortable and therefore faster in a car with a proper seat and harness holding me in so I don't move around at all. Downside is you'll feel vulnerable in a non-caged car after driving in one for a while and the whole getting in/out of the car can be a bit trickier. I'm 100% with you, but harnesses will mean that I'm basically never street-driving the car, which per the above I'm trying to delay.
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# ? Dec 7, 2016 18:43 |
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HandlingByJebus posted:I'm 100% with you, but harnesses will mean that I'm basically never street-driving the car, which per the above I'm trying to delay. Street driving with harnesses is insanely cool
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# ? Dec 7, 2016 18:45 |
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The issue with that is if you crash, the harness and seats are holding you in tightly, so unless you're also wearing a helmet and hans, the forces on your neck can be higher than stock seats, belts, and air bags. And that assumes you don't hit your head on part of the cage.
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# ? Dec 7, 2016 18:54 |
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jamal posted:The issue with that is if you crash, the harness and seats are holding you in tightly, so unless you're also wearing a helmet and hans, the forces on your neck can be higher than stock seats, belts, and air bags. And that assumes you don't hit your head on part of the cage. Winner, winner, chicken dinner. This is my reasoning. The cage and harnesses will also come with a race interior, and probably with emissions delete, and all the other poo poo that removes the car from the street.
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# ? Dec 7, 2016 22:49 |
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Something I've been going back and forth on since I want to build a "street class" Subaru. I suppose you could start with a 4-pt roll bar but leave the stock belt in, and then swap seats from like a full bucket with head containment to a more street oriented seat if you want to drive it around. Then it wouldn't be much different from stock but then you would have solid harness mounts and rollover protection. Then when you go full on track car have the front part of the cage built. Might be hard without cutting off the roof though... jamal fucked around with this message at 06:47 on Dec 8, 2016 |
# ? Dec 7, 2016 23:02 |
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Data Graham posted:Yup. It is quite uncanny to hear a noise like that while you're flogging a Mustang. Let me tell you, it's amazing. Fun car, would buy again.
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# ? Dec 8, 2016 06:32 |
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What about something like a Schroth Quick Fit. Not a huge safety upgrade, but should be fine as long as you still have all the other stock safety stuff. It would at least hold you in place better and allow you to have a hans. Wait, that thing doesn't have a back seat does it? If not, you'd have to add some attachment points. Shouldn't be too bad.
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# ? Dec 8, 2016 15:34 |
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SpaceRangerJoe posted:What about something like a Schroth Quick Fit. Not a huge safety upgrade, but should be fine as long as you still have all the other stock safety stuff. It would at least hold you in place better and allow you to have a hans. From last I checked, they don't make the Schroth Quick Fit for the z4 chassis. They serve 1 function, to hold you in the seat when driving a street car on track, because track driving on leather seats can be a challenge.......you will normally shave several seconds off your time from not having to fight the car just to stay in the seats during cornering and braking. Otherwise they are designed to function about the same as a 3 point, rip out section to throw you into the airbags and all. They provide no additional safety, and at best they just match a factory 3 point.
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# ? Dec 8, 2016 15:43 |
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I thought those were nice just from a not sliding around stand point. The ability to use a Hans as well would be nice, but if you still have airbags and stuff I suppose that isn't essential. If they don't make them for that chassis, that answers that though. I went for a ride in a GT3 with only the stock 3 points, and it really sucks some of the fun out of it when you're fighting sliding all over the place.
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# ? Dec 8, 2016 15:54 |
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Just get one of those CG locks they make for stock belts that hold you in place, problem solved. https://www.amazon.com/Lock-Performance-Add-Your-Seatbelt/dp/B0010E7OB8 Also I'm jealous of you OP, the Z4 coupe is one of my favorite sports cars, godspeed with your endeavor.
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# ? Dec 8, 2016 17:26 |
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Just get one of those CG locks they make for stock belts that hold you in place, problem solved. This is what I've done for HPDEs and Autocross. I much prefer it to the 4pts I've tried in other people's cars. CG locks are very popular in my region. I own 2 or 3.
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# ? Dec 8, 2016 17:35 |
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Not sure about newer BMWs but on the E30 if you extend the belt all the way out it ratchets back in, effectively a built in CG lock. I used this on my first E30 on the track, worked pretty good.
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# ? Dec 8, 2016 18:21 |
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Pretty sure all seatbelts since the nineties in America lock after being fully extended. It's so child seats can be attached properly and that is how I learned about it. I've started using it on my belt if I am feeling spirited and it works great.
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# ? Dec 8, 2016 22:45 |
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Bibendum posted:Pretty sure all seatbelts since the nineties in America lock after being fully extended. It's so child seats can be attached properly and that is how I learned about it. I've started using it on my belt if I am feeling spirited and it works great. Rear seats yes, fronts notsomuch. Passengers side probably does, but I know that the drivers side doesn't on all cars. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Dec 9, 2016 |
# ? Dec 9, 2016 03:04 |
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# ? Dec 10, 2016 19:26 |
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# ? Dec 10, 2016 20:59 |
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Lucky bastard
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# ? Dec 10, 2016 21:45 |
Ah, Atlas, my old friends. Mine have stood by me through thick and thin.
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# ? Dec 11, 2016 02:17 |
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Good choice, which model did you go with?
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# ? Dec 13, 2016 12:37 |
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NitroSpazzz posted:Good choice, which model did you go with? I did the BP8000. I wanted the OH9000 but couldn't justify the ~$1k price difference for my application - and the BP8000's arms are actually 3/4" or so lower than the 9k lifts', which works for me.
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# ? Dec 13, 2016 21:10 |
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VAC confirms that the cams are en route now
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# ? Dec 14, 2016 21:19 |
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This wing is completely loving ludicrous and satisfies both my lust and my need for functional handling mods. The wide angle of the iPhone lens make it look wider from the rear shots than it actually is. It's about 4-5" narrower than the car's widest point in the rear. Ludicrous. I am so, so in love. edit: Not pictured: installed the side-pull garage door opener on Sunday to clear overhead space for things on the lift. Next step: chalk out lift install location, summon a couple of buddies for pizza / beer / heroics, and get the uprights upright and bolted down. HandlingByJebus fucked around with this message at 07:34 on Dec 21, 2016 |
# ? Dec 21, 2016 07:15 |
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Well they do make the dual element gt1000... if you get the front end right you might need it
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# ? Dec 21, 2016 08:10 |
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You do know what the next step is Racing livery
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# ? Dec 21, 2016 10:05 |
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Good good. What's plans for the front aero then? Reminds me I need to order a carbon boot and cut it up 😁
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# ? Dec 21, 2016 10:45 |
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Please please please put a vinyl on that spoiler saying something like "Bruce Willis is dead" *edit: I mean that as a spoiler spoiler or just an 'I love Mr Oizo' statement Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 13:22 on Dec 21, 2016 |
# ? Dec 21, 2016 13:11 |
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jamal posted:Well they do make the dual element gt1000... if you get the front end right you might need it 1,650 lbs of downforce at 160MPH... I really hope I don't end up needing that. Rigged Death Trap posted:You do know what the next step is Well, yeah. Duh. Bape Culture posted:Good good. What's plans for the front aero then? Reminds me I need to order a carbon boot and cut it up 😁 I have an APR front splitter waiting to go on - will start that work once the lift is in, because hosed if I'm doing it lying on the floor. I suspect I'll need to add diveplanes as well to get the mid-speed plant I want in the front, but we'll see. I kind of just want diveplanes because they look AWESOME AS gently caress, of course. Olympic Mathlete posted:Please please please put a vinyl on that spoiler saying something like "Bruce Willis is dead" It's a wing, not a spoiler. HandlingByJebus fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Dec 21, 2016 |
# ? Dec 21, 2016 17:29 |
HandlingByJebus posted:It's a wing, not a spoiler. So add a decal of https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wing_(singer) or something
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# ? Dec 21, 2016 17:31 |
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Data Graham posted:So add a decal of https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wing_(singer) or something Alright, I will. Because that's loving fantastic and puns are the best.
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# ? Dec 21, 2016 17:32 |
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HandlingByJebus posted:1,650 lbs of downforce at 160MPH... I really hope I don't end up needing that.
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# ? Dec 21, 2016 17:35 |
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Canards are cool
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# ? Dec 21, 2016 17:37 |
Just wing it.
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# ? Dec 21, 2016 17:42 |
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BlackMK4 posted:Devils advocate, will your hatch take weight or are you planning on running braces from the hatch to the body? The GTC-200 wing I've actually installed maxes out at around 260 lbs of downforce @ 120MPH - if I add Gurney flaps, probably 350 lbs, which should be plenty to give me more mid-corner throttle on high-speed corners, which is what I'm after. The front splitter will actually add a bit more (no CFD numbers for this because obviously they're vehicle-specific) along with reducing understeer in the same situation - again, precisely my goals for the aero. We'll see, of course. A monster multifoil adjustable wing would be far more efficient than the GTC-200 at higher speeds, but I don't see exceeding 140-150MPH with the new engine bits on the tracks I run, so this setup should be plenty. You know, until next year, when I run braces under the wingmounts down to the chassis and strap on that 1,650 lbs downforce monster, because why not?
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# ? Dec 21, 2016 17:52 |
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Popete posted:
Looks like a Transformer. Not a complaint.
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# ? Dec 21, 2016 17:52 |
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Here's my vote.
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# ? Dec 21, 2016 17:58 |
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A lot of making a splitter work well is the rest of the front of the car. By itself, a flat sheet going through the air isn't going to do anything except be really pitch sensitive. They make downforce because the air on the top hits the front of the car, slows down, increaes pressure, and the splitter is there to turn that pressure into a downward force. So having a smooth vertical surface sealing the top of the splitter across the front of the car is key. So for example this huge splitter is actually not very effective because the middle section is just open: All that area is just going to be really sensitive to pitch and only make a little bit of downforce near the intercooler. That was over 5 years ago, I wish I knew what I know now (or what I think I know anyway), it would have been way faster (although I did not built that part of it, owner did it at home in the off-season). Still held some track records for a pretty long time like that. This civic has a really well done front end: Splitter is not too huge, front end is smooth and vertical, opening for the coolers is small. Splitter could be wider with larger end plates, and top and back of the fenders could be vented better, but it went way faster than the Subaru has ever gone at superlap last month. And then for dive planes, I have been following what my friend Andrew is doing with the fast time attack cars and he's only using one large surface higher up: So now instead of being a traditional dive plane/canard it's more like a wing profile off the side of the car and up in cleaner air. Additionally, the low pressure area under it will help extract air from the wheel wells. So it's likely making more downforce than standard canards, and is doing more to help the overall aero of the front end. Then the other consideration is, ok, air is coming into the front and going through the radiator, now what? Having a duct directing airflow in and then out of your coolers makes them more efficient, lets you use smaller openings in the front of the car, and will make more downforce if you are venting out of the hood (which you should be). jamal fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Dec 21, 2016 |
# ? Dec 21, 2016 19:55 |
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jamal posted:A lot of making a splitter work well is the rest of the front of the car. By itself, a flat sheet going through the air isn't going to do anything except be really pitch sensitive. They make downforce because the air on the top hits the front of the car, slows down, increaes pressure, and the splitter is there to turn that pressure into a downward force. So having a smooth vertical surface sealing the top of the splitter across the front of the car is key. This is gold, thank you.
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# ? Dec 21, 2016 20:13 |
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You're pals with Andrew brilliant? Get him to come post here so we can make a stupid pair of BMW aero cars.
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# ? Dec 21, 2016 21:07 |
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# ? May 22, 2024 05:35 |
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Bape Culture posted:You're pals with Andrew brilliant? Get him to come post here so we can make a stupid Need to make my boxy abomination as aerodynamic as possible, E30's get floaty as hell at speed NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Dec 21, 2016 |
# ? Dec 21, 2016 21:53 |