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These days he'll pretty much only talk about aero if you're paying him. But I do have a few things on my google drive I can share.
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Dec 21, 2016 22:17
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My question is. What's the aero limit for a crazy lumpy mad track? TA cars are basically made for glsss circuits. Wouldn't work on the ring would it?
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Dec 21, 2016 22:24
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Bape Culture posted:My question is. What's the aero limit for a crazy lumpy mad track? TA cars are basically made for glsss circuits. Wouldn't work on the ring would it? Depends on how you're making it? In IMSA GTP over here in the 90s, for stuff at temporary street circuits they'd screw all the downforce they could onto the things. Doesn't work as well if you're limited to methods that are really ride height sensitive though, but not everything is.
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Dec 21, 2016 22:26
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If we were to say, take that Subaru to the ring I would raise the ride height like 1/2 - 3/4" and call it good (well, maybe a couple of other small changes). It has good dampers (jrz 3-way) and reasonable spring rates. Only problem is it probably wouldn't make it a whole lap without overheating or blowing up or breaking something. I think the current really high downforce wtac pro-cars would have more of an issue because the springs need to be very stiff to support the aero, and even they are compromising at turn 1 to be faster everywhere else. Watch how they are dragging the splitter on the ground (downforce drops off pretty sharply when you do this) and are all over the place through there. I think it could still work, but you would have to raise the ride height and go with softer springs for sure, and maybe that would mean toning down wing angles and pulling off some small front end aero devices. And there is definitely a trade off between speed and downforce depending on the track. At the recent HKS speed ring event at the cal speedway roval it was very close between lyfe motorsports, which is a huge downforce AMB aero car, and then the HKS gtr, which mostly just has a lot of power. HKS was doing like 190 on the front straight and lyfe was in the 170 range then had to make it up on the rest of the course. They did, but only won by under a second. jamal fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Dec 22, 2016 |
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Dec 21, 2016 22:41
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I'm waiting for people in time attack to dust off the Penske hydraulic 3rd spring setups.
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Dec 21, 2016 22:49
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I did have an idea to put upper a-arms on a subaru front back in the day. I suppose instead of that you could just add a pushrod to the lower strut mount, and run that to rockers that activate a 3rd spring along the top of the firewall.
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Dec 21, 2016 22:52
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Yeah, I keep thinking of cutting up the GC in my field and converting to wishbones on all 4 corners. That and a less lovely Subaru engine than the EJ. The hydraulic 3rd springs would actually be pretty easy to implement though - they were originally created because of stuff like the Ferrari 333 where a real 3rd spring simply couldn't be added.
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Dec 21, 2016 22:58
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jamal posted:These days he'll pretty much only talk about aero if you're paying him. I missed this post previously. Please, please share. 
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Jan 12, 2017 06:04
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Following this thread closely; HandlingbyJebus, you are literally doing God's work here. I just have to translate this knowledge into what would apply for a Z4 3.0Si coupe application. Keep up the bad-rear end work!
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Jan 31, 2017 22:42
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geeteeslow posted:Following this thread closely; HandlingbyJebus, you are literally doing God's work here. Thanks man! That's a good-looking coupe, yourself. Updates: Lift is installed. It's been busy with the Fit commuting beater I bought, but Z4M should be on it for splitter / brake caliper install soon. VANOS repair parts inbound along with cam alignment tools, cams going in mid-Feb along with new cam gears / bolts, Beisan oil pump disc, and de-noised VANOS bits. Working on a tune with Evolve; hope to be ordering raw bits for the exhaust system next week or so. I've decided to have Evolve code out O2 sensors completely and delete the cats. The car is primarily for track use, not like I'll be commuting in it, so I don't feel like a smog monster doing this. That's why I bought the Fit!
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Feb 1, 2017 00:27
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Thread delivers on why I still like the look and idea of one day (probably never) owning a Z4M Coupe. Also likely why I'm now eye balling the MX-5 FS
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Feb 1, 2017 20:29
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Welp, I'm behind schedule. Big fuckin' surprise, right? Oh well. Finally made some progress this afternoon. It is not easy to get the Z4M on the lift; I have to get it into place, then use a floor jack to lift it enough to get the lift arms under it. Realized today that the car is missing one of the stock jack points (gently caress!) so ordered a replacement. Installed new air setup:   This makes me very happy. The compressor is very quiet, and kicked on exactly once tonight. Having a hose reel next to the lift is even better. Just a nice little workflow improvement. Installed the 996 Brembos in the front:      I think this is how the braking system should have come from the factory, but maybe that's just me.
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Mar 26, 2017 06:39
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HandlingByJebus posted:IIt is not easy to get the Z4M on the lift; I have to get it into place, then use a floor jack to lift it enough to get the lift arms under it.
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Mar 26, 2017 09:58
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Trying to position and then drive onto 4 pieces of wood without them just sliding forward or getting spit out backward is kind of hard. Just jacking the rear up will usually do it with low cars but occasionally I have had to drive the front on to low ramps as well. Of the stuff I've worked on lowered GTRs were generally the worst, but at least they have a convenient rear jack point.
jamal fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Mar 26, 2017 |
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Mar 26, 2017 17:04
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4 pieces of wood is doable on asphalt, but I doubt it would be on concrete without some sort of gripping surface on the bottom of the wood.
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Mar 26, 2017 17:09
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Crustashio posted:4 pieces of wood is doable on asphalt, but I doubt it would be on concrete without some sort of gripping surface on the bottom of the wood. Perhaps if the same car will be being lifted often by the same lift, bolting the wood to the floor may be worthwhile (and potentially create a dangerous trip hazard as well!)
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Mar 26, 2017 17:35
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A buddy with a lowered 993 and the same lift put 1" plywood down permanently, under the whole lift area, and another 1/2" where the car's wheels go. I'll probably do the same, because among other things that gives me a target for where the car goes in order to be lifted. I've got about 5cm squares that the contact patches need to be in to get all four arms under the jack points - it's a relatively wide car with a short wheelbase, after all.
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Mar 26, 2017 19:02
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Rears are installed. The normal brake lines won't work on the back, unfortunately, so I ordered the front/rear line kit from RallyRoad and left myself a note, just in case. I love seeing this car on the lift. 
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Mar 26, 2017 21:50
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Looking good dude! 😎🤠
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Mar 26, 2017 22:30
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Crustashio posted:4 pieces of wood is doable on asphalt, but I doubt it would be on concrete without some sort of gripping surface on the bottom of the wood.
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Mar 27, 2017 10:08
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Cut out to shape and stick a piece of that stuff they sell to line toolbox drawers with under the wood ramps to stop the sliding. HandlingByJebus posted:Welp, I'm behind schedule. Big fuckin' surprise, right?
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Mar 27, 2017 11:40
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Being behind schedule actually owns because that's before realising all the stuff you've done has ruined x, y and z and will all need to be replaced at a huge cost and that cars actually suck rear end haha
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Mar 27, 2017 12:09
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Bape Culture posted:Being behind schedule actually owns because that's before realising all the stuff you've done has ruined x, y and z and will all need to be replaced at a huge cost and that cars actually suck rear end haha Cars are literally the worst.
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Mar 27, 2017 17:50
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Ran out of brake fluid bleeding the brakes today. Thank goodness for vacuum, because there was a lot of air in the system. Sitting without brake lines for a couple of weeks... Ordered 2L of Castrol SRF to re-do the flush and get dat firm-rear end pedal because why the gently caress not? And because racecar. Bleeding one of the rears:  Fronts feel kind of small to me:  Bleeding both sides of the monoblocs is weird, but I cannot wait to feel the pedal on the track.
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Apr 11, 2017 07:02
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What magic are you using to bleed them? I have to do all 4 corners soonish and making poo poo easy is not a bad thing.
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Apr 11, 2017 09:20
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Olympic Mathlete posted:What magic are you using to bleed them? I have to do all 4 corners soonish and making poo poo easy is not a bad thing. Olympic Mathlete posted:What magic are you using to bleed them? I have to do all 4 corners soonish and making poo poo easy is not a bad thing. Just a vacuum extractor with a brake bleeder adapter.
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Apr 11, 2017 19:32
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I'm the Monoprice tie-wraps. (I was like "WHERE THE gently caress HAVE I SEEN THAT BLACK FUZZY THING?!") E: let the your mom jokes begin
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Apr 12, 2017 05:53
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Dannywilson posted:I'm the Monoprice tie-wraps. Yup. I put that poo poo on everything.
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Apr 12, 2017 07:04
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Ok, no photo update. New brakes are awesome. Everybody with a Z4M needs to do this upgrade. I got nervous about the extra power and ordered the ARP head stud kit, ARP rod bolt kit, and Bimmerworld's race conrod bearing kit / EGR block plate / stainless clutch line. Having signed myself up for this extra work, I also chickened out on building the exhaust myself and ordered Supersprint sections 1, 2, and race backboxes from Turner. And solid aluminum engine / trans mounts. I also renewed my tabs (including emissions test) so I can get on with the real work now. Next step: tearing everything out of the engine bay to get exhaust headers installed, VANOS rebuilt, cams installed, head studs installed.. and then figuring out what I need to pull from the front subframe to get at the rod big ends with the engine in the car. I am not pulling this loving engine to do the rod bearings. I can run the car without the CSL airbox / exhaust for the June 8th track day I've got booked, and then install the airbox / exhaust and do a tune prior to the August 10th day I have booked next. I have high hopes for all of this. Especially that the updated bearings / bolts / head studs will help this engine live longer under the kind of abuse I intend to give it.
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May 5, 2017 18:44
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I've got a hf engine support bar that you are welcome to borrow
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May 8, 2017 17:30
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BraveUlysses posted:I've got a hf engine support bar that you are welcome to borrow Thanks dude, I may take you up on that.
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May 8, 2017 17:42
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Alright! It's the weekend of my wrenchcation (I booked Friday / Tuesday off so I had five days straight to do all the stuff; I have dyno time booked on Tuesday), and I've been Here are some photos and narrative for your amusement.  Roadkill-style list! And it's grown a bunch, unsurprisingly.  Engine support for when the subframe drops out the bottom. This was done a long time before it had to bear any weight.  Target of opportunity: pulled the exhaust headers while I was mulling over how to deal with the subframe and balljoints. Getting at a few of the bottom nuts on these is loving awful and made me want to throw a wrench across the room more than once.  Finally just said "gently caress it" and pulled the subframe with the control arms and steering rack attached. It's not as heavy as I feared, but heavier than I'd hoped. Unfortunately I hosed up a couple of the balljoint boots trying to separate the control arms and tierods, and it seems that nobody sells BMW balljoints or balljoint boots by themselves. So, goddammit, looks like I'm ordering like $800 worth of parts to replace $3 worth of rubber boots. I'm pretty pissed about that.  Finally the oilpan is exposed!  Guts. The oil pump needs to come out before the rods are accessible.  Set up for bearing / bolt replacement! Fun fact: the ARP rod bolt package was labeled with M10. They're 12-point M11s. Thank goodness for parts stores that carry somewhat esoteric tools.  Art shot of one of the conrods, highlighting an interesting peculiarity of their manufacture: they're forged as single units, and then split to create the cap / rod separation. It means that each rod is unique, caps aren't interchangeable, and are also directional. The colour of the crank doesn't come through in this photo, it's a really lovely deep blue.  Finally, the bearing shells that came out. Lots of copper showing there, very glad I decided to do this work when I did. So: two days in, the rod bearings / bolts are swapped out. I have two days to do the VANOS rebuild, cam / rocker swap, exhaust, etc... it's possible, but I think I'm probably going to spend Tuesday buttoning up the car instead of dynoing it. Whee!
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May 28, 2017 06:18
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Well, bolts are defined by their thread size, not their head size. So an M10 bolt can have any number of head sizes and configurations, and still be M10. So I wouldn't lose sleep over that. Plus, aren't ARP bolts usually 12-point?
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May 28, 2017 06:36
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For the torn boots see if there's a rebuild kit for whatever you tore the boots on. I was able do this for the torn boots on the E21 rear axles instead of trying to track down NLA axles.
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May 28, 2017 12:05
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Raluek posted:Well, bolts are defined by their thread size, not their head size. So an M10 bolt can have any number of head sizes and configurations, and still be M10. So I wouldn't lose sleep over that. Plus, aren't ARP bolts usually 12-point? Oh, loving duh. Of course. I somehow gapped and read it as "10mm 12-point". 
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May 28, 2017 16:15
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NitroSpazzz posted:For the torn boots see if there's a rebuild kit for whatever you tore the boots on. I was able do this for the torn boots on the E21 rear axles instead of trying to track down NLA axles. I've called around with no luck, but I'll look closer once everything else is done. Worst-case I'll drive it with torn boots (or do a bodge fix with glue and plastic) for a bit and replace the tierod ends / control arms a bit later. It at least won't completely die if I drive it that way to the dyno; June 6th track time is looking unlikely tho 
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May 28, 2017 16:18
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i think i'll be at the ridge on june 9th with turn2
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May 28, 2017 17:53
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Did Z4M's have a rod bearing recall like the regualar M3? Or did they come from the factory with whatever solution BMW does for the recall?
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May 28, 2017 22:01
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Like the Z3M they just pretended it wasnt an issue
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May 28, 2017 23:16
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BraveUlysses posted:i think i'll be at the ridge on june 9th with turn2 Samesies. Haven't registered yet because I have a track day and opportunity for failure June 2nd at Portland. Hopefully there will be registration still open June 3rd. Been over 2 years since I been on track. I'll be in a junky evo.
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May 28, 2017 23:47
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