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That Eagle is by far the most awesome and every time you post it I wonder how many dollars it would take to convince you to part with it.  (also never stop posting your shitbox fleet updates, it gives me motivation to make more of my shitbox fleet autoperambulatory)
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Jan 18, 2017 23:59
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It's an AMC model 15 / dana 35 rearend right? The RIGHT way to do it is to: - remove diff cover - remove cross shaft retention bolt - remove cross shaft - remove axleshafts and c clips - remove carrier, keep each bearing cup with the side of the diff it was on originally - drop driveshaft - measure pinion preload drag (since it's leaking like a sieve you can probably assume there's zero drag from the seal) with an inch-pound torque wrench that measures while it's moving, not trying to get it moving - remove nut, washer, yoke, seal, outer bearing, crush sleeve - replace crush sleeve, bearing, seal, yoke, washer, new pinion nut - tighten to spec, verify preload drag is correct plus a bit for the fact that the seal's actually touching it now - reassembly is reverse of removal, except you curse at different times (usually when dropping all the things into the drain pan full of nasty diff lube and dirt) The factory procedure probably involves replacing the pinion bearings and cups as well, and may require redoing the depth shimming and/or carrier bearings too While You're In There. That being said, the way I've done it a few times is exactly what Swiller of Beer said. Bap it off, pull washer/yoke/seal, reinstall new (use new pinion nut), bap it back on. Or another variation (this only works since you're not replacing the yoke or washer or anything other than the seal), scratch a line into the pinion tip and nut, bap it off, pull washer/yoke/seal, crank it back on with a ratchet and make sure the scribe lines match up again, now it's where it was originally. Probably worn and sloppy as gently caress with no remaining bearing preload, but hey, whatever, it worked before. If it blows up, swap in a 29 spline chrysler 8.25, IMO, you might even get lucky and find one that is the right gear ratio to match your front. Allegedly the spring perch width is the same on the Eagle and XJ 8.25 so it'll bolt right in after you weld the appropriate shock mounts on, but the people who said that noted in the same breath that Eagles are SUA while XJs are SOA, so I'm not sure how accurate this information is because that'd require some work to correct.
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Mar 15, 2017 20:26
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Was gonna say, looks like cruise or wipers, probably cruise. I hope you took the motor mounts and all the brackets off the motor... Always wondered how the front diff and motor mount to each other, allegedly it's all bolted together?
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Nov 20, 2017 23:43
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Greyhound If you ever want to see the motor yourself or be able to find it I recommend attaching a GPS tracker and a long life battery. 14 and explodingsims both got screwed and so did my buddy Alex, who lost a military truck radiator worth 700+ dollars to the gorillas who load and unload Greyhound freight. They destroyed it and told him to suck a fat pimply dick when he called in a damage claim.
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Dec 18, 2017 09:13
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You could find a way to make it work by doing that and jumping only the high pressure line from the donor car to the recipient, but you'd need a valve in the middle since you'd spray everywhere connecting or disconnecting one end at a time. Many shops will do a discharge for you and then recharge after you do the repairs for one refill fee or that plus a little more. Just gotta be friendly and explain what you're doing.
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Jan 14, 2018 03:33
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